Видео

I usually put better tires on the back wheels. And I usually put better bearings in all the wheels. I don't really use the go karts that much so I never wore out a tire. Better tires are like $15 each. So I now have a lot of extra tires for the front wheels. I think it is still the cheapest way to go for wheels on a go kart. Sealed bearings are like $2 each or less, you will need 2 for each wheel. So HF wheel + better tire + better bearings = a good set up for cheap.

The OD is 1 and 3/8 inch...The ID you can get in 5/8 in. or 3/4 in. On Amazon they are like 10pcs. for $15 or 4 pcs. for $8....The Harbor Freight wheels have a 5/8 ID for like on a 5/8 bolt or a 5/8 shaft...The new bearings fit tight on a rod/bar but go on a bolt/stud better I think because a bolt is made to fit inside a 5/8 hole and a 5/8 bar is made to be 5/8...When I use a bar/rod for an axle I use a locking collar they are cheap and reuseable...When you have a bolt for the end of the axle you should use a new lock nut every time you take off the wheel, like they don't hold as good after the first time...

I used the other half of the wheel BECAUSE it is the same bolt pattern as the sprocket...And the same bolt pattern for a 4 inch band brake drum...It is a 2 and 13/16 or 2 and 7/8 bolt pattern like most 4, 5, and 6 inch wheels...Some like on Amazon say 2 inch from one bolt hole to the next and that still makes the same bolt pattern...YOU KNOW THIS IS FOR THE 4 INCH WHEELS...RIGHT

@@TemperDriven okay thank you

2 and 1/2 x 2 and 1/2 works good, but kind of tall near the front pivot point if you want to lay out with tall tires. I also did 2x2 (the black one in video) and 1 and 1/2 x 2 and 1/2 (the first and last in video)...Wall thickness can be 1/4 inch or even 3/16 inch....A plan/drawing can be found on S10Forum...I have a copy of one on my other channel called temperbuilding...About the Blazer, the frame over the axle is different than the trucks...But the leaf springs are the same so 2 link would be same...

⁠@@TemperDrivenwhat did you use so it can hold the bushing?

They are called link bar ends..You can buy them where you buy your airbag parts...Or go to a metal supply place like Speedy Metals...For an S10 they are 2 inch OD, 1 and 1/2 inch ID and 2 and 1/2 inches long...

No flex at all...Just like a door in a house...It will swing up and down only...Just like a door swings open or closed only...It works but it is not the best set up...

On my RUclips channel called temperbuilding I have a video that is just a drawing or blueprint of all the dimensions to make S10 2 link bars...You know this will only fit an S10 right?...Also I don't know why you say a "good drop"...Most people airbag to reach the ground...If you can't lay out then it is a fail...All 3 of my trucks will lay frame...One I even body dropped and it will lay out on the rocker panels. More airbag videos on my channel temperbuilding.

Thank you...I know the welds don't look so good...It has been a couple of years since I last did any welding.

Yes I did...It was the first thing I welded for this go kart...It did not line up so well with the sprocket...I think next time I will use the band brake drum instead of using the other half of the wheel when I weld my spacer, but I do not have a brake band or drum yet...I still need to order that and some cables for gas and brake pedals. This does work, I have done it 7 time before, this will make 8 but did not use it yet.

I don't know what you mean...I CUT and drilled all the pieces with cordless tools...NOTHING was CUT FOR ME...I built both the buildings on this property 100 percent myself with cordless tools and hand tools like a hammer, level, caulk gun, a square, utility knife, ladder ect...The building of the buildings can be seen on my channel Far From Main Street...I DO MY OWN WORK.

Not at LMC truck or Certifit...Browns of Two Rivers has them for a 3 door extended cab...The slip on ones like I did here you could buy two and cut them to fit...Or keep looking on the internet.

I was using a GoPro like waterproof camera...Maybe it does not pick up sound well being waterproof and all....I did no "mods" to it so it is not my fault...It is a two stroke AKA two cycle...This is the only two cycle I ever had...So I can't say they all sound like that...I just don't know.

I call out and or list the dimensions in some of my other go kart videos. The plans were called Viper ST and Viper STX...The X means eXtended front end...I only did one shorter ST go kart...The website was mxk.com...But I think they are out of business...I bought the plans 10 years ago. The dimensions I say in my other go kart videos are a little different from the plans...I make my steering wheels smaller...And I make the front axle less wide and the rear axle wider because the plans hade the front axle much wider than the rear...And I really didn't like it like that.

There are ones that do not bolt in at all to the vehicle, they are called floating cups because they do not bolt into place they just kind of sit in place where they should be. I have always used bolt in ones.

@@TemperDriven do you have a link to those cups? I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy 2wd and can't find any

I made that set from a kit that was 4 circle plates and 12 inches of 5 inch O.D. steel tube. I don't know if you have an S10 Jimmy or if that is a full size Jimmy...The 5 inch OD tube is about the same OD of the coil springs...Or you could make some from 5 inch PIPE which is a little more than 5 and a 1/2 inches OD...4 inch PIPE is 4 and a 1/2 inches OD...You only need like 2 inches long for the top and 2 inches long on the bottom...Or you can make the lower ones shorter to make it easier to lay out/ more travel before the airbags bottom out inside the airbags....Circle plates are all like 6 inches round and cheap.

I used two link bar ends/bushings for the pivot/hinge...And I think it is the rubber twisting/turning that is making the noise...You can hear the same sound when I raise the rear of the trucks because of the bushings in the 2 link bars. Or maybe it is the airbag slowly filling with air.

@@TemperDriven I think it might have to do something with the airbag expanding cuz it's quiet when it's lowering... maybe because the airbag is pushing up, but it's being forced into an angle?

They are exactly the same as the leaf spring ones...Or buy some wherever you buy your airbags and parts from.

Like not at all...Even a truck not body dropped would still have some of the tire tucked into the fender so that you would bend your fenders if you tried to turn even a little...You kind of have to make sure your tires are straight forward before you start to lay out...I like to use 6 inch wide wheels when I can just so I know they will fit in the fenders easier.

@@TemperDriven oh wow... so you can't really drive much laid out, at least with this truck, got it. Maybe add a height sensor (from an rv or semi with air suspension) and make it light up an led at a certain height, telling you that you're safe to turn full lock to lock :D if that's not too gimmicky :p

It lays out completely....It drags on the front crossmember/skid plate under the engine and it drags where the link bars mount to where the leaf springs used to mount.

Both of my black trucks I never cut anything on the bed. A "C" notch over the axle is all you need if you keep the tire height at like 24 inches. I use 195/60/15 and/or 205/55/15. I never had to cut the wheel wells either front or back. One truck has airbags behind the axle under the bed and the other the airbags are on the link bars in front of the tires. Airbags on the link bars ride much better than airbags on the axle. On all 3 trucks the valves, air tanks and compressors are under the bed floor.

Thank you for sharing I appreciate that and glad to hear that there no cutting expect for the C notch. Looks like I will be able to do bags after all

I have 3/8 inch valves in the front and 1/4 inch valves in the rear. I like the 1/4 inch valves in the rear so I can easily set my ride height moving up or down. The red truck is all 1/4 inch valves and my Sonoma (the other black truck) is all 3/8 inch valves. I run 150 PSI...If you want to hop at all you need 1/2 inch valves and 200 PSI...I use just 4 valves 2 for the front and 2 for the rear. one is air in and one is air out...It is known as a front back set up (FB) If you want to do "sides" too (FBSS) you will need 8 valves.

The tires are 195/60/15 (about 24 and 1/4 inches tall) There is a bolt in C notch over the rear axle. I did not cut the bed floor or the wheel wells, but I cut out a sheet metal brace under the wheel wells. Yes it is a 2 link. On this truck I have 2 inch dropped spindles in the front so I did not have to cut the control arms at all and I did not have to notch the frame over the tie rods. Dropped spindles are the way to go if you don't want to do a lot of cutting and welding.

​@@TemperDriven Good to know :D Thank you for the quick reply!

Yer Truck has a leak ! 😂