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You been under a rock? That topic as been beaten to death and I will strongly disagree. I bought 2 knock offs and yes the quality wasn't the same and ended up buying genuine SAB heli's after I bought those and would have never bought them if I never got the opportunity to try them in the form of knock offs first. I also spent lots with SAB in the form of upgrades by for the knock offs. I never would have bought a SAB if it wasn't for those.

Thanks, Ever try using a laser pointer?

@@15066bas No I haven't. Sounds like a great idea though!

@@larrychamel It's the best, I never made a vid though.

@@larrychamel ruclips.net/video/ZzseLKHvioU/видео.html I use this method but after initial setup like in my vid. I then set the head with the elevator servo control lined up and place the blade at 0deg and place the paper with the mark it. (I just use a laser cat toy) and strap it to the top of the grip with a rubber band and remove the blades after I establish the starting point and then rotate the head and place the other 2 sheets of paper. Then your level and zeroed

Your right, just adjust that one blade, swash to grip to nail down your tracking so each blade reads the same at the same point. It works even better if your take the rake out of the heli by raising the front so it's close to level front to rear. The method is similar to using a laser, do you know that method? Except the digital level can be used out in the field if need be.

what i do with my Trex 600, is make sure it is leveled using bubble levels. then i have done your method,but what i do find weird is that i have to go like 3 rotations (same blade) always changing the servo horns before all 3 reads 0. so what you saying from what i read when it comes to the 2nd blade grip is....once 1st blade reads 0 on all 3 servo horns... then i need only to adjust on the 2nd blade is its blade grip linkage to get to 0, and no longer touch the servo horns? and whats the laser method?

Correct, then they match for blade tracking. Ever use the laser, it works good for bigger hellis that have a nice flat spot on the top of the grip?

will look into the laser method, since my head does look fairly flat. and let me ask you this what is your take on level swash plate at top and bottom of travel? some folks say only the middle and the FBL unit will handle the rest... whats your take? also let me add this i find it weird that i use a legit swash plate leveling tool at mid stick and when i think i have it leveled and put the head back on, i find myself adjusting the servo horns when i use you method, why is that if my swash was "leveled" using the one of those leveling tools that slide down the main shaft? sorry for all the questions but i been trying many ideas and yours seems to be the next one i am trying and what to understand the logic and what not. want to find the best method and stick with that one....lol

The swash may or may not be level top and bottom, geometry affects it at max ravel. FBL just needs it to be level mid stick. Your never going to go to full min max in flight and that would be the only time it would affect it. Example, my Trex 550 elevator had less travel , min max than the ailerons. The servo alignment caused deflection that limited it. Slotted the mounting holes about 2mm forward and it stays level now. As for the best, it would be the laser but can't do it in the field. I started a vid but got interrupted. ruclips.net/video/UnruVWGZAKQ/видео.html 2:00 cat toy laser, laser held on with a small piece of packing tape. 0 one blade with the swash to grip linkage off and aligned over the ele servo and affix it with packing tape across the head block to grip and strap the laser to the top off the grip with a gumband. You have 3 pieces of tape with a black dot on each. With the grip aligned over each servo place the tape on the wall where the laser points. That creates a perfect reference point to set you blades during setup. Hook up th linkage and adjust as needed level horns and linkage to swash so at each point the laser hits the dot.