Видео

Hello! I think you may be confusing our off-grid building with the use of electricity. It will cost anywhere from $6,000 - $10,000 to connect this building to the existing power line on our property and add a new overhead pole and transformer right next to the building. It would also be considered a commercial connection, adding 15-20% to every kilowatt we use. In contrast, solar cost $7,000 and no monthly bills.

@@PoeRunCraftProvisions ah I see. You mean the electricity part. Thanks for clarifying.

Nominal 8x16 Actual in mm: 194.675 x 398.145. I'd guess they would be 400x195x195 mm

Hope you continued watching the next episodes where we do fill all the block.

Hello and thanks for watching, though I do hope you feel better! We have about 40 acres, all mountainside and are 5 miles or so outside city limits so we don't need inspections/permits except for septic and electrical connections (both of which we don't have on this building). Maybe I should put out more videos on a regular schedule it would help with the subs as every new videos grows the channel a exponentially. But as we are not creators, it's not our focus as some homesteaders.

@@PoeRunCraftProvisions thank you for replying.

Thank you Terri! Hope all is well in your world

Hello! Vertical rebar was placed about 32" apart. The slightly long answer to the second question... I'd used BBond, an industrial version of SBC used in mining, to fix a CMU wall at our main house. The block had failed due to excessive moisture and a lack of draining. Surface bonding cement does provide water resistance so didn't need to apply a water protection/drainage layer at the house or this build. Second I wasn't confident enough to lay level courses using mortar, though I would have gotten a lot better at it as I progressed. BUT I'd still have to apply some sort of drainage plane/water resistance layer to the buried side of each wall. And I think plain CMU walls are unattractive, so I'd also have to "stucco" the exposed sides. All that is accomplished with SBC in one process. Please see the pinned post if you have questions about SBC strength and some simple structural math. I know a number of "old-school" comments say SBC will fail, but that is not what the mining industry says nor all the science.

Please consider reading the pinned post and the relevant link regarding surface bonding cement vs mortar. And remember, the whole wall is filled with rebar and concrete.

@@PoeRunCraftProvisions read it. I stand by my statement.

Surface bonding cement is fiber-reinforced. When a block wall is parged with it, the layer of cement bonds it all together. As long as he is adding reinforcement steel in the cores and bond beams, this wall will be every bit as strong as a mortared wall.

Hello! Please see pinned post with details and a link explaining the use of this product vs mortar joints. I encourage you to watch the next videos in which we do fill every void. Also this isn't portland cement used to parge the wall, it's a surface bonding cement, which includes fibers and is specifically designed for this purpose. I also included some calculations in the post for more detail, though overturning and slip calculations were not included, I did that math too, please see the introduction video in this playlist. There is a lot of new science that was researched to get to this point in the build. That said, I agree don't just build a wall because I did, do the math and the research for your project. Thanks for watching!

Good ideas. I’d like to have milk from the sheep too.

Yes you are correct. These walls originally had a typical plastic "vapor barrier" between the drywall and unfaced batts. I removed this for a couple reasons. First it was full of holes in that the penetrations and seams were not taped thus allowing vapor through which caused some mold on the drywall and insulation. Second a coat of primer and a coat of latex paint is a class III vapor retarder that satisfies code. Final thought... Some people use faced insulation AND plastic which could (will?) trap moisture between those two laters.

Hi it’s Margaret from Poe Run. I have noticed it with face and leg markings maybe fifty percent of the time

Yes I have noticed it, but only sometimes not always

​@@margaretbruning1416 Thanks - Will the Roamnovs go through a wool break in the spring and shed, or do they need to be sheared?

Good luck, sounds like a real challenge.

@@PoeRunCraftProvisions - It seems to be working - I'm adding fence border plants that deer hate but for now, the garden is doing well. I have motion sensing alarms in as well and I found that the doe was getting in under the fence which I had to pin down and reinforce with rebar to put an end to that little trick. I also raised the height of the fence to 9 feet. So far, things have been put to a stop with the invasions.

Hello. That is what we have done, but only 3'-4' deep which is well below our freeze line. Couple of other considerations, retaining walls over 4' should be checked by an engineer (I kept mine at 4' and under) and you must have good drainage with perforated pipe at the bottom.. Don't backfill with soil, only gravel to finished grade and use a good quality unwoven fabric NOT landscape fabric. Unwoven fabric will allow water in and be drained away.

Yes, that is true for a lot of 2x4 construction, along with jack and king studs etc. There is a lot information about 2x6 framing using insulation between a 2-ply header, or just sizing a single header and insulating the wall as normal. When calculating the opening over the door, I could have used 2-ply header, but 2x12 #1 SYP was more than strong enough. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

@@PoeRunCraftProvisions Just wondering, do you have to get permits and inspections where you are? I have heard you mention anything about that.

We are outside the city limits, so we don't need permits for building which I both understand and think is a little crazy given some of the construction I've seen in West Virginia. I had a structural engineer confirm, not stamp, the footing/wall and soil. The framing etc is built at the minimum to 2021 IRC, but most is oversized for the application like the column, beams, footer, joists & rafters. The log beams and posts were calculated from timber-framing books and are about 40% oversized. I appreciate your comments, you've obviously got way more experience and it's helpful for me to make sure I've got it right or correct a problem. David

@@PoeRunCraftProvisions I know that building standards and technique vary around the world. Thanks for sharing your build with everyone. Very interesting.

Hi John. Initially I was thinking "hope" and "fingers crossed" would suffice, but there are a few things keeping it from falling down the hill. 1) The footer/block wall weights about 66,000 lbs, the small wall on the up hill side has anchors every 4' and the columns are secured with Simpson HTT4 tension ties rated at 4400 lbs tension each, about 48,000 lbs in total. 2) The weight of the building (framing, siding, sheathing etc), once complete is about 55,000 lbs. All this pushing down, resisting overturning. FWIW, this is about 600 lbs per sq ft, my soil is about 2000 psf. There are 4 Zip panels on the first floor nailed every 4" on edge, 6" in field to act as shear walls. The Zip panels also span from the first to second floor, tying the framing together, not to mention the wall and roof sheathing preventing racking. 3) I did some math on wind loads. Wind east or west direct @ 160mph , north or south @ 120mph should easily be sustainable. We've recorded max 38 mph winds here over the last 7 years. So after all that, I do have my fingers crossed. ;)

@@PoeRunCraftProvisions the plates are secured to the concrete block walls sure but the floor system rests on a 2x6 pony wall. I wouldn’t put my trust on just the weight of the building holding down. I would be adding braces from the top of the pony wall to the bottom of the mid-wall. Then there is no chance of it moving. Good luck!!

Hey, I've keeps some pretty good records.... FastenersPlus.com, I paid about $350 with tax and shipping. Part SDWS22600. Good luck! You'll have to dig on the Simpson site for the structural calculations if you need it.

@@PoeRunCraftProvisions sweet when do i get a list lol ill send ya my email

Thank you for sharing your experience Ernie!

Omg.! There is no evidence to back anything up you said . If a mortared wall and a dry stack wall are both filled with concrete and rebar they will be nearly equal . Dry stack doesn’t add strength😅 . Some of these comments are hilarious

@@Nctbgs Suggestion: Reread what was written before you comment: ".....stacked wall [....] with vertical rebar and a bond beam with rebar then the entire wall filled with concrete is much stronger than a conventionally laid wall using mortar joints." Conventionally laid, aka mortar joint, CMU walls typically only have the cavities filled that contain the vertical rebar ties that stick out of the footer (which is every 4ft by code). All other cavities are not filled unless specified,, and in the rare even they ARE filled, it's not with concrete, but perlite or vermiculite loose fill for insulation value (aka no strength added). So a filled dry-stack wall with the bond beam and vertical ties would be stronger. The info IS widely available from Quikrete, Sakrete, and Building Science Corp. to name a few. Now, if a conventional wall has all cavities filled with concrete, it'll be stronger than the above filled dry stack, but again, most block walls are not solid filled.

@@l.a.martin2424 Well ONE would agree "IF" the wall was just laid up as a CMU block wall (with the joints mortared) and "NOT reinforced" and "NOT" Grout FILLED! (But his method probably is stronger than the scenario I am describing here?)

Great job.

Hello! Yes, I do understand your concern and traditional framing would need all that extra framing. Given the 2x12 #1 SYP rafters are sized to clear span from the beam (ep 31) to the wall, the studs are more for nailing the sheathing and space for insulation than actually providing structural support. Not that they don't provide support, they sure do. There are proper headers over the door and window openings on the north and south walls along with king/jack studs as needed (ep 27 and 32).

Done. Thank you for letting me know

he did fill the cells in another video. Probably fine for the purpose, but yea walls experience a huge amount of pressure over time. Even the most expensive, overbuilt ones can fail due to ground conditions or events.

The short answer is YES, but there are some caveats, thought it sounds like you've got a modified version of our fence, but with more height. We replace our 12' high tensile electric fence we inherited with the property to the 3D fence as the other was ugly to say the least. Also being on a hill as we are, we have to adjust some of the heights to confirm to the terrain, we do this by looking at the lines from about "deer height" and adjust as needed.

@@PoeRunCraftProvisions I’ve got 8” in diameter poles at eight foot spacing….. I am considering putting the 6x6 wire on the outside ….. and then the tighter black meshed stuff on the inside (to product it). Effectively two layers to visually look through….. Thoughts????

@@1blgharris1 My understanding to part of the reason a 3D fence works with deer is they have poor depth perception and the visual effect of the two layers of just 3 lines doesn't make sense to them. They can easily jump over a 3D fence but don't because they aren't sure how far to go. I'm thinking the extra lines would give the deer more reference to maybe to jump over. With that said, I know someone who uses 2 rows of your common sheep/goat electric fence and has good success. Not sure the spacing, but I think it's 2-3 feet?

Hi Josh… mostly a string trimmer, though in some parts we can mow too

Yes, ideally it would be on the other side, but this second floor is 10ft above the ground level so I would have needed a 25'-28' gin pole.