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Thank you so much, you explained it so well

Problem is as I see it is we all want products as cheap as chips and as usual you only get what you pay for so are these only designed for hobbyists and occasional use think we all have tools that get used once in a blue moon are these designed to be one of those tools

In my opinion, FX Audio DAC is better alternative. It's also cheap yet good quality than Prozor DAC.

The current generic Chinese cables are very bad. A real Chinese garbage. Los cables genéricos chinos actuales, son muy malos. Una verdadera basura china.

Dremel is no good at all. It is cheap bild and expensive in the shop.

Good video mine done that and after finding this video is happily working again clear instructions . Mine did not have the copper bit in the end but plastic

I bought two of these that look identical. One will only work with a usb 3.0 port, the other one wieks on all usb. Both of these units I have tried have the same fault. When there is complex MIDI, using loads of polyphony old multiple channels. This causes hanging notes and even at random have crazy pitch bend issues. Mine shows 2 outputs, which o don't understand. Both outputs aeem ro do the same thing. Am I missing something, I don't understand why there are two outputs with just one cable

I find shrink wrapped batteries somewhat annoying. Unless you have any kind of knife or scissors getting them out of it can be tricky.

​ @TripplikitElectronics Plastic can be lubricated, but it requires a very careful choice of lubricant. A conventional oil or grease will act as a solvent against the plastic. Silicone and PFPE oils are generally safe on all plastics.

Burned through 4 dremels each time getting a higher number each time thinking they might be built better. Wow was I wrong!

Do not wnt to keep fixing junk, I need a tool that is reliable! Never buying any dremels anymore! They are cheap junk!

Useful ❤

U NEVER SHOWED the LEASH WORKING AFTER U SUPPOSEDLY FIXED IT !!! VERY SHADY , I MUST SAY. U NEVER RELOADED the SPRING !!!

There are only 2 possible causes for the failure. Plastic expanding or Battery replacement method. Because the clock just sits on the wall there is no physical contact other than changing the battery. The rechargeable battery may have a larger diameter than non rechargeable which may push the contact off causing the loss of power. The 2nd clock must have cheaper plastic that's wearing or expanding. The magnet gear is not seating in the socket so its slipping. The replacement hands could be binding causing the magnet gear to wear the points causing it to jump the teeth. It may need a shim to hold it in place.

I did it.... thank you... 😊

What typicaly kills them is the shaft piviots (bearings) wear loose to a point where the mechnism binds up and stops . I have seen people put a tiny drop of clock oil on these points and get them back running again, I have also seen the battery bars corrode make bad contact and stop them as well. but if the bearings are worn badly enougth oiling wont fix them . its important to note these mechnisums do come with the option of the threaded shaft that goes thorugh the clock face having a number of diffrent lengths , you can get them with the option of having a swinging fake pendulum, some tick off the seconds and that noise anoys some people , some run second hand smooth and dont tick as they operate ..

The trimmer was the reason I was saving the shaver and I can’t see how to reattach it! X-D Edit: Never mind. Surprisingly simple, if fiddly. There’s another teeny tiny hole in the shaver itself that the spring needs to fit into. Then you line up the sticky-uppy bits on the shaver to the grooves in the trimmer and slide them back in.

I got one that seems to work fine for a few weeks/months and then suddenly begins losing time. When I check the battery voltage, it's at around 1.4V (new one read 1.6V). I've cleaned the PCB with IPA and even touched up the solder joints with my iron. The gears don't seem to be dirty or look damaged. It's difficult to troubleshoot since I have to wait potentially weeks or months to see if what I did made any difference. Not really sure what's up with it.

awful, losing the will to live

All I would warn people off is to be carefull of that centre spring other springs cap pop out and its fine if that centre spring hits you the edges are sharp and it can slice skin under the tension its at. Other than that have fun.

MUITO interessante

I have got a problem with my clock, the second hands got ticking then it have stop ticking and the time are going really fast. Do you know why? I have been advised to replace all of these gears which I don't think I would need to?

Na maioria das vezes o problema é só de mau contado na saída de alimentação das placas para as ferragens de suporte das pilhas. Pode-se acertar o contato, colocando novamente a pressão adequada ou soldando um fio na saída da placa para a ferragem, usando ferro de soldar com potência acima de 40W e um bom fluxo de solda. Saudações do Brasil 🇧🇷

Thankyou! Same problem mine had. (purchased brand new on Sunday, arrived yesterday!)

Hiya. Really interesting clip. I want to do roughly the same, but have two LED strips, like yours, top and bottom of a custom splashback I want to illuminate, utilising the extractor hoods lighting circuit. I have wired in the driver box to the two LEDs and just need to wire the driver live and neutral into the hoods lighting circuit. How did you determine the correct wires to use in the hoods wiring block?

Cleaning those pressure electrical contact tabs should go a long way toward making the clock reliable. if you don't have contact cleaner...then rubbing alcohol and a paper towel will do it.. dry with the a paper towel because it is mildly abrasive which is good.

Perfect! I didn't know how the electro-magnetic mechanism worked...only that there is the quartz crystal controlled oscillator. Now I can set about taking my old LL Bean ( seiko) moon phase mecanism apart. It "fibbulates) instead of doing a full tick...so maybe clean and lube will do it. Thumbs Up !

Thanks for sharing the video. I had exactly this same issue in my Dremel 3000 and have seen hundreds of Dremels in the internet with this issue of broken wire. It seems to be a design issue.

I'm with Octopus and they are currently paying 15p/KWh exported. From the last 2 years data I have, the payback for the 4.2Kwh peek system I have looks to be in the region of about 5.5 to 6.5 years. I currently do not have a battery, so I sell as much over production as possible back to Octopus, and then use any heavy appliances during off-peak (E7) as we are currently paying less for off-peak (13.31p/KWh inc. VAT) than Octopus pays us to export (15p/KWh). And.. You defiantly export in winter, between November 22 and April last year I got paid almost £65 for electricity I exported. Plus, (as already pointed out) you also have to take into consideration the cost (including the vat) saving of your self-consumption as if you had purchased it.

Hi, I had Solar installed back in 2022 (6KW), just before the energy prices exploded, and you do export in winter, because as you said, when your not at home, its just pumped out to the grid, I then had a battery installed 6 months later, and the self consumption rate (winter) went from 60% to 98%, as the battery is charged during the day, and even in winter, on a bad day, will still charge it to about 50%. One thing to consider when working out payback, is also treat your self as an energy supplier to yourself, so the electric you use, calculate how much that would cost, and include vat too, I have worked out my break even point at about 5.5 years for my system, not the 10+ years you have suggested. my solar array is a SE/NW orientation system, both sides of roof is covered.

you explain it like shares on the stockmarket and companys go also out of business and then youchart is useless.

are they wort it yes with the taxpayers money , from your own money and making it compleet that it runs your home complete no it is useless to dat it can be good but tomorow it is a waste of money nothing is forever.

Thank you very very much, very helpful. Rescued me!!!

Thanks a lot! Fixed my dog’s leash using your video

I have a small doubt . The Third gear from the drive gear which is on the top . why there are circular cut paths??

Thanks so much for posting this detailed video - I had the same issue with a detached piece of wire and fixed it as you showed by soldering some more wire to make the connection again. Delighted 😊

Thank you very much for this video. It was very useful. I had trouble releasing the door seal. It has to be lifted up to get it over the lip. All ok now !

Good repair

You uploaded the Code somewhere?

Thanks for the video. Couldnt find a way to open it up. Sneaky hidden screws. Cheers

Who actually does the nut up with a spanner hahah

Great im waiting for one in the post. Generally if you tell them its not working you get the refund and keep the product.

Thank you ❤

Could you possibly drill through the shaft to make tightening and loosening better ?

wanted to use it with my yamaha dd75 drum pad. it only sends one midi signal a second☹️

Nice video, thank you!

it is very strange. I have the 2710, and the display is so flashy, I even find it a bit annoying when I work with it in the dark late at night :) What is a bit dissapointing with this unit, is that the current measurement is very bad for low currents. I work a lot on SMD and below 10mA this unit will still show 0.

I also have two, a 300 & a 4000. The 300 id my favourite!

Thank you for showing us on what we have to look at...Most time it's a mosfet or a capacitor

thanks! i repaired my dremel doing the continuity test. the enamel wirings ends seems to break easily if the the motor got stuck. unfortunaly i had to solder those wires directly to the metal connector. we have to watch out to not let solder into those 4 connectors cavities, if so, the head piece won't fit correctly.