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Tripplikit Electronics
Великобритания
Добавлен 6 май 2019
Finishing The Circuit Design. Boat Speedo Part 7
The summer before last we spent 6 weeks on our boat, "Bonny Mary". Surprisingly for a boat that moves so slowly, we found on several occasions, we needed to know how fast we were going.
We set out to design a simple and easy to read, GPS based, speedometer for our boat - and any other application where we need to measure relatively low speeds. The intention was for it to be ready for this year's cruise.
Well we're home again from this year's cruise and the speedo project is still a box of bits so lets get going and finish our PCB design and get the circuit boards ordered.
We set out to design a simple and easy to read, GPS based, speedometer for our boat - and any other application where we need to measure relatively low speeds. The intention was for it to be ready for this year's cruise.
Well we're home again from this year's cruise and the speedo project is still a box of bits so lets get going and finish our PCB design and get the circuit boards ordered.
Просмотров: 7
Видео
Starting The Circuit Design. Boat Speedo Part 6
Просмотров 521 день назад
The summer before last we spent 6 weeks on our boat, "Bonny Mary". Surprisingly for a boat that moves so slowly, we found on several occasions, we needed to know how fast we were going.We set out to design a simple and easy to read, GPS based, speedometer for our boat - and any other application where we need to measure relatively low speeds. The intention was for it to be ready for this year's...
Shower Sump Pump Upgrade Part 2
Просмотров 18Месяц назад
Like most narrowboats, our boat Bonny Mary has a bathroom with a shower. The problem with a shower on a boat is that the base of the shower is below the level of the canal water. To overcome this, the shower water must be pumped up and out through the side of the boat, above the water line. We have had problems with the existing system so lets finish off our upgraded system using the wonderfull...
Shower Sump Pump Upgrade Part 1
Просмотров 622 месяца назад
Like most narrowboats, our boat Bonny Mary has a bathroom with a shower. The problem with a shower on a boat is that the base of the shower is below the level of the canal water. To overcome this, the shower water must be pumped up and out through the side of the boat, above the water line. We have had problems with the existing system so lets build an upgraded system using the wonderfully name...
Parkrun Age Grade Percents. How Are They Calculated
Просмотров 252 месяца назад
As a keen parkrunner I have always wondered how Parkrun arrive at the percentage "age grade" values. They are a bit cagey about how they calculate these so let's see if we can re-engineer their calculations and tables. Parkrun Web Site can be found at: www.parkrun.org.uk/ The spreadsheet developed to calculate parkrun percentages can be downloaded from: 1drv.ms/u/s!Ajxjb2TYfugB4FTGL5rnZhf2agtG?...
Is Solar Worth It? Part 2
Просмотров 23 месяца назад
We have, in the past, looked into getting solar panels on our house but were told we couldn't get enough panels on our roof as we would need 9 or 10 panels to make it worthwhile. Inspired by an advert for a cheap 4 panel setup I have decided to look into whether it is actually worth us getting just a few panels. Looking deeper into solar panels I started to question whether solar panels are wor...
Part 10 of the RGB LEDs Mood Light. Finishing Up The Software
Просмотров 93 месяца назад
We have a nice decorative glass globe we are transforming it into a colour changing mood light, which reacts to its surroundings, using a Neopixel type multi-coloured LED strip. Lets finish off making our moods react how we want them to the PIR, light sensor and microphone inputs. Lets also do a couple more tidy ups and we can call the software complete - V1.0!
Is Solar Worth It? Part 1
Просмотров 834 месяца назад
We have, in the past, looked into getting solar panels on our house but were told we couldn't get enough panels on our roof as we would need 9 or 10 panels to make it worthwhile. Inspired by an advert for a cheap 4 panel setup I have decided to look into whether it is actually worth us getting just a few panels. Looking deeper into solar panels I started to question whether solar panels are wor...
SD Card Logging For Our Boat Speedo. Part 5
Просмотров 95 месяцев назад
Last summer we spent 6 weeks on our boat, "Bonny Mary". Surprisingly for a boat that moves so slowly, we found on several occasions, we needed to know how fast we were going. Let's design a simple and easy to read, GPS based, speedometer for our boat - and any other application where we need to measure relatively low speeds. We're going to use GPS positioning to measure speed so while we're at ...
Fairy Light Bulbs. How Do They Work?
Просмотров 435 месяцев назад
We have a set of "Snowflake" fairy light bulbs that are old enough to be almost a family heirloom. So old, in fact, that they use incandescent bulbs instead of LEDs. In the last video we found some replacement bulbs, OK, but I've always wanted to know how it is that when one bulb blows all the other's stay lit. Lets see if we can find out.
FTDI USB Serial Converter With C++ Builder
Просмотров 4746 месяцев назад
NOTE:- I made a mistake on the video which has subsequently come to light! If you call "FT_Read(ftdi_handle,buffer,bytes_to_read,&bytes_read)" the function will hang up until it has read "bytes_to_read" bytes. This will hang up your code if there is no data coming in. You need to call "FT_GetStatus(ftdi_handle,&bytes_to_read,&bytes_to_write,&event_status)" first which will give you the current ...
Fairy Light Snowflake Bulbs Part 1
Просмотров 276 месяцев назад
We have a set of "Snowflake" fairy light bulbs that are old enough to be almost a family heirloom. So old, in fact, that they use iincandescent bulbs instead of LEDs. We are running out of bulbs so let's try and find some replacements. While we're at it let's investigate the properties of these little bulbs.
All New Radical Synthesizer 19. Player Interface Improvements - Again
Просмотров 236 месяцев назад
We're designing a radical new synthesizer and we've decided that we're going to using custom hardware and an STM32 Nucleo to create a player interface. We're using a Windows PC to generate the sound and communicating between the two using USB. Out player interface consists of a turntable controller (inspired by a Hurdy Gurdy handle) and some strings which are played like violin strings - althou...
Can We Fix The Sound Module In This Children's Book
Просмотров 1416 месяцев назад
Can We Fix The Sound Module In This Children's Book
Part 9 of the RGB LEDs Mood Light. Making Ambient Sound & Movement Affect Our Moods
Просмотров 247 месяцев назад
Part 9 of the RGB LEDs Mood Light. Making Ambient Sound & Movement Affect Our Moods
Bluetooth For Our Boat Speedo. Part 4
Просмотров 727 месяцев назад
Bluetooth For Our Boat Speedo. Part 4
How To Update & Create A Project To STM32CubeIDE
Просмотров 4928 месяцев назад
How To Update & Create A Project To STM32CubeIDE
HP Notebook Has A Broken Hinge. Let's Fix It
Просмотров 1278 месяцев назад
HP Notebook Has A Broken Hinge. Let's Fix It
Heresy Radical Synthesizer 18. Coupled Oscillators 3
Просмотров 989 месяцев назад
Heresy Radical Synthesizer 18. Coupled Oscillators 3
GPS Module For Our Boat Speedo. Part 3
Просмотров 499 месяцев назад
GPS Module For Our Boat Speedo. Part 3
Heresy Radical Synthesizer 17. Coupled Oscillators 2
Просмотров 2110 месяцев назад
Heresy Radical Synthesizer 17. Coupled Oscillators 2
Heresy Radical Synthesizer 16. Coupled Oscillators 1
Просмотров 8210 месяцев назад
Heresy Radical Synthesizer 16. Coupled Oscillators 1
Illuminated indicator Panels For Our Boat Speedo. Part 2
Просмотров 5511 месяцев назад
Illuminated indicator Panels For Our Boat Speedo. Part 2
Lets Build a Simple Speedometer for a Boat. Part 1
Просмотров 15511 месяцев назад
Lets Build a Simple Speedometer for a Boat. Part 1
"Music Box" music and narrowboat trip slide-show
Просмотров 2911 месяцев назад
"Music Box" music and narrowboat trip slide-show
All New Radical Synthesizer 15. Player Interface Improvements
Просмотров 31Год назад
All New Radical Synthesizer 15. Player Interface Improvements
How Bad Are They? Faulty Boat Water Pumps
Просмотров 36Год назад
How Bad Are They? Faulty Boat Water Pumps
Thank you so much, you explained it so well
Problem is as I see it is we all want products as cheap as chips and as usual you only get what you pay for so are these only designed for hobbyists and occasional use think we all have tools that get used once in a blue moon are these designed to be one of those tools
In my opinion, FX Audio DAC is better alternative. It's also cheap yet good quality than Prozor DAC.
The current generic Chinese cables are very bad. A real Chinese garbage. Los cables genéricos chinos actuales, son muy malos. Una verdadera basura china.
I have had lots of comments on this video - not one of them saying it is any good. Do not buy it!
Dremel is no good at all. It is cheap bild and expensive in the shop.
Oh dear yes. Look out for a video I will be doing in the next couple of weeks!
Good video mine done that and after finding this video is happily working again clear instructions . Mine did not have the copper bit in the end but plastic
Glad you found the video helpful.
I bought two of these that look identical. One will only work with a usb 3.0 port, the other one wieks on all usb. Both of these units I have tried have the same fault. When there is complex MIDI, using loads of polyphony old multiple channels. This causes hanging notes and even at random have crazy pitch bend issues. Mine shows 2 outputs, which o don't understand. Both outputs aeem ro do the same thing. Am I missing something, I don't understand why there are two outputs with just one cable
I'm afraid these MIDI interfaces are absolute rubbish! The input isn't even opto-isolated as per MIDI specifications. I would suggest you bin them and buy your MIDI interfaces from a known brand. I went with M-Audio and it has worked perfectly.
I find shrink wrapped batteries somewhat annoying. Unless you have any kind of knife or scissors getting them out of it can be tricky.
@TripplikitElectronics Plastic can be lubricated, but it requires a very careful choice of lubricant. A conventional oil or grease will act as a solvent against the plastic. Silicone and PFPE oils are generally safe on all plastics.
Thanks for that. Very useful information.
Burned through 4 dremels each time getting a higher number each time thinking they might be built better. Wow was I wrong!
Ouch! My two are still working but I don't actually use them a great deal.
Do not wnt to keep fixing junk, I need a tool that is reliable! Never buying any dremels anymore! They are cheap junk!
There have been a lot of comments like this on this video. Not sure I'd buy another one but have yet to hear of a good alternative.
Useful ❤
Glad you found it helpful.
U NEVER SHOWED the LEASH WORKING AFTER U SUPPOSEDLY FIXED IT !!! VERY SHADY , I MUST SAY. U NEVER RELOADED the SPRING !!!
It did work after I fixed it - promise. This was the first RUclips video I did so it's not surprising that it's not too good!
There are only 2 possible causes for the failure. Plastic expanding or Battery replacement method. Because the clock just sits on the wall there is no physical contact other than changing the battery. The rechargeable battery may have a larger diameter than non rechargeable which may push the contact off causing the loss of power. The 2nd clock must have cheaper plastic that's wearing or expanding. The magnet gear is not seating in the socket so its slipping. The replacement hands could be binding causing the magnet gear to wear the points causing it to jump the teeth. It may need a shim to hold it in place.
Thanks for the information. You sound a lot more knowledgable than me on these clock mechanisms. I shall certainly make use of your information on the next one I look at.
I did it.... thank you... 😊
Well done. Glad the video helped.
What typicaly kills them is the shaft piviots (bearings) wear loose to a point where the mechnism binds up and stops . I have seen people put a tiny drop of clock oil on these points and get them back running again, I have also seen the battery bars corrode make bad contact and stop them as well. but if the bearings are worn badly enougth oiling wont fix them . its important to note these mechnisums do come with the option of the threaded shaft that goes thorugh the clock face having a number of diffrent lengths , you can get them with the option of having a swinging fake pendulum, some tick off the seconds and that noise anoys some people , some run second hand smooth and dont tick as they operate ..
I always thought you shouldn't oil plastic bearings. Was I wrong? They are so cheap that once the bearings get worn it's probably best to just replace them. There are so many options available for quartz clock mechanisms it is quite hard to choose the correct one for your application. I must admit I've never had one with a fake tick or a fake pendulum!
The trimmer was the reason I was saving the shaver and I can’t see how to reattach it! X-D Edit: Never mind. Surprisingly simple, if fiddly. There’s another teeny tiny hole in the shaver itself that the spring needs to fit into. Then you line up the sticky-uppy bits on the shaver to the grooves in the trimmer and slide them back in.
Yes very fiddly. I managed to damage the spring on one of mine so the trimmer doesn't slide up and down very well. It still works though if I'm patient with it.
I got one that seems to work fine for a few weeks/months and then suddenly begins losing time. When I check the battery voltage, it's at around 1.4V (new one read 1.6V). I've cleaned the PCB with IPA and even touched up the solder joints with my iron. The gears don't seem to be dirty or look damaged. It's difficult to troubleshoot since I have to wait potentially weeks or months to see if what I did made any difference. Not really sure what's up with it.
They are so much built down to a price it's probably poor assembly or a poor quality part wearing out early. Look like you've tried everything to repair it so you'll probably just have to replace it.
awful, losing the will to live
All I would warn people off is to be carefull of that centre spring other springs cap pop out and its fine if that centre spring hits you the edges are sharp and it can slice skin under the tension its at. Other than that have fun.
Yes, there is a fair amount of energy stored in the main spring. Though the most likely cause of failure it the main spring breaking so there won't be any tension on it when disassembling. You're right though - care is needed when reassembling.
MUITO interessante
Gracias.
I have got a problem with my clock, the second hands got ticking then it have stop ticking and the time are going really fast. Do you know why? I have been advised to replace all of these gears which I don't think I would need to?
I have never heard of that problem before! It would probably be cheaper to replace the clock mechanism rather than buy new gears. I would actually be very surprised if you could find new gears to buy.
Na maioria das vezes o problema é só de mau contado na saída de alimentação das placas para as ferragens de suporte das pilhas. Pode-se acertar o contato, colocando novamente a pressão adequada ou soldando um fio na saída da placa para a ferragem, usando ferro de soldar com potência acima de 40W e um bom fluxo de solda. Saudações do Brasil 🇧🇷
Olá no Brasil e obrigado por suas idéias. Muito útil.
Thankyou! Same problem mine had. (purchased brand new on Sunday, arrived yesterday!)
Glad you found it helpful.
Hiya. Really interesting clip. I want to do roughly the same, but have two LED strips, like yours, top and bottom of a custom splashback I want to illuminate, utilising the extractor hoods lighting circuit. I have wired in the driver box to the two LEDs and just need to wire the driver live and neutral into the hoods lighting circuit. How did you determine the correct wires to use in the hoods wiring block?
Our cooker hood has a rather poor mains light built in. I used a mains power supply for my LED strip and just took the mains from across this light. The original light switch could then be used to turn the new light on and off.
Cleaning those pressure electrical contact tabs should go a long way toward making the clock reliable. if you don't have contact cleaner...then rubbing alcohol and a paper towel will do it.. dry with the a paper towel because it is mildly abrasive which is good.
I agree. It is surprising how much those contacts getting dirty can affect the performance. Despite the current usage being minute.
Perfect! I didn't know how the electro-magnetic mechanism worked...only that there is the quartz crystal controlled oscillator. Now I can set about taking my old LL Bean ( seiko) moon phase mecanism apart. It "fibbulates) instead of doing a full tick...so maybe clean and lube will do it. Thumbs Up !
Hope that fixes your problem. You would have thought that a bad contact would just cause the clock to stop - however I've seen that effect too.
Thanks for sharing the video. I had exactly this same issue in my Dremel 3000 and have seen hundreds of Dremels in the internet with this issue of broken wire. It seems to be a design issue.
Yes, it does seem to be a design issue. I've had many, many, comments to this video from people with the same problem.
I'm with Octopus and they are currently paying 15p/KWh exported. From the last 2 years data I have, the payback for the 4.2Kwh peek system I have looks to be in the region of about 5.5 to 6.5 years. I currently do not have a battery, so I sell as much over production as possible back to Octopus, and then use any heavy appliances during off-peak (E7) as we are currently paying less for off-peak (13.31p/KWh inc. VAT) than Octopus pays us to export (15p/KWh). And.. You defiantly export in winter, between November 22 and April last year I got paid almost £65 for electricity I exported. Plus, (as already pointed out) you also have to take into consideration the cost (including the vat) saving of your self-consumption as if you had purchased it.
The reason we would get such a poor rate for exporting solar energy to the grid is that we have an EV tariff which allows us to charge our car for 7.5p per kWh during the night. The down side of this is that we would only get 8p per kWh for exported energy. As for exporting energy in the winter - maybe I got my calculations wrong. I will check them again when I come to do part 2.
@@TripplikitElectronics No problem, I realized after I posted you wouldn't get 15p export due to being on the Go tariff and meant to edit my post but forgot!!
Hi, I had Solar installed back in 2022 (6KW), just before the energy prices exploded, and you do export in winter, because as you said, when your not at home, its just pumped out to the grid, I then had a battery installed 6 months later, and the self consumption rate (winter) went from 60% to 98%, as the battery is charged during the day, and even in winter, on a bad day, will still charge it to about 50%. One thing to consider when working out payback, is also treat your self as an energy supplier to yourself, so the electric you use, calculate how much that would cost, and include vat too, I have worked out my break even point at about 5.5 years for my system, not the 10+ years you have suggested. my solar array is a SE/NW orientation system, both sides of roof is covered.
you explain it like shares on the stockmarket and companys go also out of business and then youchart is useless.
are they wort it yes with the taxpayers money , from your own money and making it compleet that it runs your home complete no it is useless to dat it can be good but tomorow it is a waste of money nothing is forever.
I don't think the taxpayer is offering any money to install Solar panels in my part of the world.
@@TripplikitElectronics subsidie is tax payers money
Thank you very very much, very helpful. Rescued me!!!
Glad you found it useful.
Thanks a lot! Fixed my dog’s leash using your video
Great. That's the first video I ever did!
I have a small doubt . The Third gear from the drive gear which is on the top . why there are circular cut paths??
Didn't notice that - well spotted. Do you think I re-assembled it incorrectly?
Thanks so much for posting this detailed video - I had the same issue with a detached piece of wire and fixed it as you showed by soldering some more wire to make the connection again. Delighted 😊
Good to hear. You'll be pleased to know that mine is still running.
Thank you very much for this video. It was very useful. I had trouble releasing the door seal. It has to be lifted up to get it over the lip. All ok now !
The door seals are stiff. I guess they have to be to seal properly. They also get pretty gunged up over time.
@@TripplikitElectronics Initially I was trying to pull the seal edge towards me. That didn't work because the seal goes over a lip. Lifting it, then pulling it worked. No gung involved !
Good repair
Thank you.
You uploaded the Code somewhere?
Here it is: 1drv.ms/u/s!Ajxjb2TYfugB4FP2PUjir4k7U3OV?e=woA9Fo
Thanks for the video. Couldnt find a way to open it up. Sneaky hidden screws. Cheers
As you say - sneaky hidden screws. Just not intended to be repaired.
Who actually does the nut up with a spanner hahah
I guess those of us who still haven't lost the spanner!
Great im waiting for one in the post. Generally if you tell them its not working you get the refund and keep the product.
Yeah but then you have the same amount of money, a useless piece of junk and a load of time wasted trying to get it to work.
Thank you ❤
Glad you found it useful.
Could you possibly drill through the shaft to make tightening and loosening better ?
This might be quite difficult to do - I suspect the shaft will be hardened.
wanted to use it with my yamaha dd75 drum pad. it only sends one midi signal a second☹️
I think I get more comments on these MIDI interfaces than any other video. I say every time - they are absolute junk! I suggest you buy one from a known brand - mine's M-Audio.
@@TripplikitElectronics i bought one from lekato. it works great 👍
Nice video, thank you!
Glad you liked it.
it is very strange. I have the 2710, and the display is so flashy, I even find it a bit annoying when I work with it in the dark late at night :) What is a bit dissapointing with this unit, is that the current measurement is very bad for low currents. I work a lot on SMD and below 10mA this unit will still show 0.
I also used an earlier model at work with a nice bright display. That is part of the reason I was so disappointed with the dim display on this one. I guess the just decided blue is "trendy". The current measurement on mine seems to be fine at low currents but you could always put a multimeter in series with it.
I also have two, a 300 & a 4000. The 300 id my favourite!
Glad to hear you like yours. From the comments I've had quite a lot of people aren't too impressed with them.
@@TripplikitElectronics I can't imagine why, it's lightweight & powerful with a good range of speeds. On the down side, they do go wrong perhaps more than most. I have had at least 2 faults with mine, like a cut field coil connection & faulty speed control.
Thank you for showing us on what we have to look at...Most time it's a mosfet or a capacitor
I agree. Maybe I should have put a bit more time into trying to repair it - not so easy without a schematic though!
thanks! i repaired my dremel doing the continuity test. the enamel wirings ends seems to break easily if the the motor got stuck. unfortunaly i had to solder those wires directly to the metal connector. we have to watch out to not let solder into those 4 connectors cavities, if so, the head piece won't fit correctly.
I guess they're like most things these days - not really designed to be repaired.