- Видео 8
- Просмотров 24 765
Scott Leahy
Добавлен 26 ноя 2013
Soviet Era Cigarette Dispenser - Music Box
This Soviet curio commemorates great Russian milestones in space. I purchased this as a gift for my wife knowing the music box feature was inoperative. About an hour of careful cleaning and lubrication got it working! Thank you, Viktoria, for packing it carefully. Best wishes to you in the Ukraine!
Просмотров: 120
Видео
Thrustmaster HOTAS 1 - how to screw together. YES, the tool in the box is wrong.
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.3 года назад
The throttle and stick assembly require a 3mm hex key. The one in the box is the wrong size. This video shows where you secure the two assemblies together.
Replace Incandescent Lamp with LED Elna Star Series
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.4 года назад
Quick video showing how to replace the sewing lamp in an Elna 62C (and other Star Series machines.) Link to BA15D Replacement Bulb shown in video. amzn.to/3k6ujD9 Note: Amazon affiliate link: clicking and buying from this link supports my channel! Thank You!
Elna Star Series Bobbin Extractor Repair
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.4 года назад
Elna Star Series Bobbin Extractor Repair
2006 Sprinter Window Regulator Repair - No More Plastic Slides
Просмотров 2,8 тыс.4 года назад
Rather than replace another window regulator with the same weak plastic slide, I decided to order these brass replacements. This video shows the steps to perform the repair. Here is my affiliate link to purchase these parts. If this video helped you please consider subscribing and using this link to purchase! Thanks for watching! Here is the revised link to the devices I ordered: amzn.to/3RSKRkK
Bernina 1130 Spool Pin Replacement
Просмотров 2 тыс.5 лет назад
How to replace Bernina sping-loaded thread spool pins in the 1130, 1230, and similar models from the late 80s and early 90s.
Elna SU-62C Star Series Hook Pinion Replacement
Просмотров 15 тыс.5 лет назад
This video will take you through the process of replacing a stripped-out pinion gear on an Elna Star Series machine. The procedure should be the same for the SP and TSP models as well as the SU or Supermatic. The gear I used is available on Amazon Prime. amzn.to/2BCFX4o
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us. I live on the Island of Madeira in Portugal and there are very few people fixing machines and they do not work on Elna machines and especially this kind of repair. One even laughed at me and said it was very difficult and how was I going to manage. Thanks to you I have managed. I even have to fix my own overlocker machine because they say it is too much work to service them.
Scott you are so methodical and that helps us in our homes! Muchas Gracias!
Scott, thanks for an excellent video. One question, after I did this my reverse stitch will not function- the forward is all perfect. Reverse side bar also works. But any reverse stitch on the stitch lenght control pulls my threads around the bobbin. Could I have it on wrong?
The timing and the feed system are only related in that they get their power through the same shaft. My first task fixing your machine would be to ensure that the feed mechanism is working smoothly and not binding. The feed system is controlled via a thin metal blade running from the underside of the machine through the free arm over to the feed linkage. Ensure it is not binding. It can bind due to stuck bushings in the vertical shaft that controls forward reverse or it can be a sticky components in the feed linkage or spring. If all of that is smooth, then check your feed dog timing. To do this, crank your machine to the point that the takeup arm is as high as it will go. Hold it at the highest point with your thumb. From that point, the feed dogs should travel 1mm forward to reach max forward travel. If they are not your feed timing is off.
@@Elnamech I found your comments on FB about feed timing, and they really helped. Thanks Scott! I see you also have AE SU 68. I kinda love mine, but she gives me grief!!
:-) :-)💗❤💗❤
:-)❤❤😻
I am so grateful for this video. I hadn't used my Elna SU for many years, having progressed to a computerised Bernina sewing and embroidering machine, but wanted to use it recently, as I have a ruffler attachment for it. Long story short - I lent the machine to someone, some years ago who said she hadn't used it but, when I tried to, I discovered the bobbin section was so tightly filled and wound up with thread, it took me ages to carefully snip and remove it all. I don't mind when people make mistakes or even break things, but please, own up and don't lie - I was obviously always going to discover it anyway! This video gave me the confidence to change the gear, which was so shredded, it literally fell apart as I took the pin out, and set the timing (after several attempts at that!) and I have just sewed a hem. The bobbin tension is perfect - the top not so much, but I will play with that. I had been told by several sewing machine engineers, that it would be impossible to get this machine going again, but I ignored them and tried anyway. I currently live in the UK, and did find a man who lives hundreds of miles away in Cornwall, who helped me as well, particularly today as I struggled to get the hook seated correctly and connected to the gear. His company sells brand new parts of many mechanical machines, including mine, and I bought the new gear from him as well as new plate screws as I mangled them getting them out. Thank you so much Scott.
Very glad this video helped you get your machine back up and running, Christine!
Thanks man. My disaster happened yesterday, and I have a gear on order. Still not sure what caused it.
Hi! Great Elna Video and I'm still watchin' it. Just wanted to comment that around frames 15:34 you *instinctively* *knew* that was a *"pin"* instead of some small type allen head screw! I remember seeing a similar screw/pin thingy on a rare "tall shank" Japanese Dressmaker home machine similar to this one - ruclips.net/video/mYLxtJzeWFg/видео.htmlfeature=shared - (that appeared to stop its bobbin case from spinning around. I now believe that was actually a PIN such as yours. Remind me to get a bigger *magnifying* *glass* and carefully look at the head next time (think I spent 2 hours lookin' around for a small tiny allen wrench before I gave up and grabbed a beer)..
Thank you very much, sir. I took my door apart and could not believe what a substandard piece of junk Mercedes passed on to their customers. My gut tells me that the engine and tranny on this van will outlive me, but everything is falling apart. I will try to get this repair done in the near future, and I'll let you know how it goes. I have read all of the comments here, and see that there is some issue with some of the replacement parts not fitting right. I will be careful about checking the size of the part i get before I put it on. But most of all, I won't complain to you if the part isn't right. That's not your fault.
Brilliant!
Soy de la isla de cuba
Dondebpuedo vomprarvedrabpieza la necesito para mi maquina helna
Awesome video just what I needed to get my machine up and running again!
Glad it helped, Chris!
Thank you so much! Just fixed the very very same gear last night at the same spot, but a different Elna model. I lost the manual and can't tell which model I own. The big white plate isn't a separate piece in my version, so I had to open it from the bottom to get to it
Incredible help. Thank you so much for making this video. ❤
This has been my mission yesterday, today and tomorrow. I've changed out the gear and have it sewing but I've goofed up on the needle timing somewhere. Straight stitches are strutting the academy award carpet but the zig-zag is loudly protesting the event! Watch this space...
Hi Tom. The essence of timing the machine is to ensure that with the needle in the exact center and at the very bottom of the stroke, the hook point is at 4 o'clock. Then when the needle has risen exactly 2.45mm on the upstroke, the hook point will be exactly behind the needle. Elna mechanics used a tool, H11039 / 100630 that is 2.45mm thick to set this. They brought the needle to the bottom of the stroke, inserted the tool around the needlebar right where it comes out of the snout of the machine, and then screwed on a clamp pinning the tool in position. Once the clamp was on you could pull the tool out and be sure the needle had gone up 2.45mm when the clamp stopped the upward travel. The tools are hard to find, though. I use the plunge gauge on my set of calipers. I stick the plunger down the needlebar gallery til it hits the bottom, zero out the meter, and then use the caliper readout to get my 2.45mm upward travel value. It isn't as easy as just having the tool but it does work fine. I have timed many machines using this method. Good luck!
Thank you very much for sharing your expertise!
You’re welcome, hope it helps!
It worked, as described. A1. I discovered the escaping nuts before watching this.
Just replaced one myself using your excellent descriptions and demonstration of how it should be done. Thank so much!!
I need to replace my pins. The new ones have arrived, but he didn’t include the capture nuts. I’m terrified to remove the back. No sewing machine help near by.
ruclips.net/video/oh95Us0nNXU/видео.html I have marked this video by In Stitches that demonstrates how to remove the back cover. If you are very careful with the old spring nut getting it off you should be able to reuse it. The job, including the cover removal isn't that hard. Just take it slowly and keep track of which screws you removed.
Hi Scott, I have the TSP Model any chance you could do a video on setting the timing up just in case you need to adjust it after replacing the new gearing. Cheers
Hi, Marc! I do not have any videos ready to post, best I can do is describe the factory method (requires an Elna tool & needlebar clamp) or how I do it using a set of Mitutoyo calipers.The factory method involves pulling the needlebar to the very bottom of the stroke. Then you insert a precisely 2.45mm thick gauge at the point where the needlebar comes out of the head of the machine. With the gauge in place, you put a clamp on the needlebar snug against the gauge and tighten it. Then you remove the gauge. The clamp is on there to tell you that the needlebar has moved up 2.45mm. On a properly-timed machine, when you gently turn the handcrank and the clamp stops the upward travel, the hook should be directly behind the needle when it is in the center position. If the hook point has gone past the needle then your timing is late. If it has not reached the needle then you are early. You adjust this by loosening 2 setscrews on the bottom timing cog and turning it forward or back on the bottom shaft. BE SURE to bias the shaft tightly to the right while you are adjusting or it will want to scootch to the left and disengage the feed dog drive. I will put the caliper version in another comment.
What do you call this form factor/standard size of bulb? Seems taller than most other push in sewing bulbs, but I have this same model of machine.
The bulbs are double contact bayonet style with a 15mm diameter base and are referred to as BA-15D 120V (in the USA) In other countries with 220 volt service then the bulbs should be purchased with that rating. The original incandescent bulb was 63.5 mm long and the LED bulbs I use are 64.5 mm. BA-15D bulbs are a common standard and available in many different lengths that will work but if you go too short you will have a hard time getting them in and out. Something between 63 and 65mm is what you want to get.
I also want to thank you so much for this video. i have now successfully replaced the hook pinion that shattered shortly after I bought my new to me ElnaSuper. It took me three tries to get the hook perfectly aligned with the needle, but it sews better than before and I learned a ton!
Great to see this, my wife has been wanting to switch this out for years. We've been trying options outside the bulb and none worked well. Thanks!
Scott, This video Lois great and I think I could do this if I had the 62C. I have the 64C flatbed model and I just can not see how I will get to this piece. I can see it, but I cannot find any information on how to remove the bottom plate to get access. I can take the bobbin assembly out in this same way. It looks like I could do this from below too if I could just get the bottom plate off the machine.
I simply drilled out the post and used a 1 inch carriage bolt with a nylon washer and two nuts.
Can you tell me the diameter of the nylon washer you used?
@@Alex-pd4xw It was slightly larger than the carriage bolt head. Unfortunately I did not measure either.
You're a life-saver!!
Thank you for posting this very helpful video. My spool pins are stuck. They are a bit expensive to replace. I was wondering if there is any way of repairing them. Is it possible to replace the spring? Thank you.
Great tutorial! HOWEVER, when your hook gear breaks into pieces and the timing is totally lost, you have to ALSO time the feed dog with the needle. If you don't, the material doesn't feed and the thread tangles and breaks constantly. I spent two two frustrating days till I figured this out.
Money shot 25:20. Aligning the hook and needle for stitch. I was way off on the other side of the needle. Thank you
How do you know when the gear needs to be replaced.
The hook stops turning, or turns partially then stalls when the machine is cranked.
Thank you so much to take the time sharing your knowledge and having created this video. with your help, I managed to repair a similar machine (Elna Supermatic star) and hopefully, it will be up and running for the next 50 years to celebrate the century of this excellent machine. You are awesome. Thanks again.
Very pleased that my video helped you, Alain. Congratulations on your repair!
Elba sp
The SP repair is identical to the SU.
Thank you so much, I just fixed my 1966 - 62C Supermatic following your video from start to finish. 👍 The original black gear has suddenly gone into a thousand of shards. I'm amazed that we are still able to find parts. This machine is a fantastic piece of equipment for its time. So thank you again, cheers from France 😉
Thank you so much for your kind words. Delighted the video was helpful!
Perfecte uitleg.
Thank you, I hope the video was useful.
Quick question Scott, how exactly did you center the separating plate? You showed a socket from a ratchet set, is there a specific socket you would recommend using as a guide?
I just used one that fit and eyeballed around it for even clearance. The outer diameter of the socket will vary depending on who made it so find one that just fits in the hole and sight around it.
@@Elnamech Thanks Scott! That's very helpful.
I find I have another question Scott, and I hope you can assist. I'm working on a Cl 33 which is a flat bed machine and I cannot get the black separating plate out of the machine. On the free arm the bed of the machine unscrews as you show in your video, but that's not the case with the flat bed. Do I need to remove the bottom of the machine or is there a trick that I can't figure out to get the separating plate out?
@@r.duroucher225 I am afraid that I have never seen, in person, any of the platen models. All of my machines are freearms. Wish I could help further.
@@Elnamech Thanks for your response Scott. I guess these platen machines must be less common than the free-arm. I believe I’ve got it figured out. There is a space between the bottom of the platen and the bottom frame. That space runs right round the machine and the gears are exposed. One can access the pinion from there without having to take the black separator plate out. One can remove and install the pinion from the rear of the machine through the gap. From what I can tell, the rest of your method applies. I have a pinion on order and will know once I try it out.
It is extraordinarily generous of you to have done this video and shared it as you have done. Thank you. This has saved my machine.
Hi! Fantastic video! The needle position dial on my 62 is so stiff it only moves a little bit and the moves don't actually move the needle position. Is there a fix for this? Thank you for any help you can give.
Sorry for the delay in reply but for some reason YT would not let me see or reply to this comment other than the email notification. The seized needle position dial is a very common failure on the Star Series machines. A half century of service will do that to you, I guess. I recommend you join the Vintage Elna Sewing Machine Group on Facebook. This problem has been covered by many posts. Most of the people lean the machine to the side and drip oil onto the dial and underneath it. Some denatured alcohol might help to loosen the gunk. Alcohol, oil, heat from a blow dryer, repeat over a few days. This has worked for many people. I have not done it, myself. I take the top shaft out, remove and disassemble the Elnagraph and thoroughly clean and lube the dial. I have to do it anyway as I replace the cam gear on any machine I take in.
@@Elnamech Scott, you are a doll! Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to give me such a detailed and helpful response. I wish you lived near me. I would take my machines, the Elna and a bunch of Pfaffs, right over to you for professional repair and tuning. Your videos are wonderful! And thank you for turning me on to the Vintage Elna Sewing Machine Group on Facebook. I will definitely go there! Thank you! Monica
Hi Scott I try your link with amazon to try to purchase the replacement parts but amazon says they could not find the page, do you have the part number by any chance?
Hi Henry. Thanks for letting me know. I changed the link to a newer listing as that old one was taken down. This one is less money and should not require trimming the bolt. amzn.to/3pzo918
Hi Scott, We ordered 2 of the parts from the new link and they are too small. The actuator arm gets detached as the window is raised and lowered 2005 sprinter van drivers door Any hints of where to find the other part that fits?
Hello Scott , I did this repair on the gear but the machine is still not sewing, can you help me ? I did small video ruclips.net/user/shortsg5djWoqONQo
Scott nt machaine ha give up the goast ad cant be fixed i am very good with mt hands as my Father was gifted as a black smith and farrior will it cost a lot
Is your machine like this one? An Elna blue top or similar, a star series machine in other words? If so the gear I replace here generally costs 10-15 dollars from either eBay or Amazon. It is not an expensive repair parts-wise. I have heard from many people who have used this video to repair their machines when the hook gear fails, Maire.
@@Elnamech yes my Elna has a blue top it would be BRILLIANT if i got it repaired. THANKS A MILLION FOR YOUR INFORMATION
I will call ur video ""when ur common sense say not; You have to have Faith""". I have Elna TSP and gear pinion was broken and I replaced by watching videos in RUclips and the hook and needle didn't work together as it should be so I tried and failed so this happened 4 years ago. So I had to sewing so I saw videos of elna and ur video was exactly what happened to me 4 years ago but what I didn't know was that I had to put in the right way the pinion so the hook and needle work together called "timing" so now it works. I appreciate your dedication and I think U didn't give us a lecture rather a better understanding how the timing works. People like U make a better world solving problems that people think I can do that too
Thank you Scott, we are repairing a sewing machine of a friend who died so her daughter can use her machine. This was very helpful and kind of you to post.
Hi just had a look at the spring leaded bobbin remover video, so clever, I think even I can do it with your method. Never really thought that was such a good idea of Elna, but not one of mine ever broke. These Elnas were indistinguishable. Only a small amount of oil and working for many hours a day. I also didn't have money for services, just kept them clean and on we went. Thanks Anita
Hi thank you so much for your detailed video. I had the Elna tsp and su in the 1970s and I had a cottage industry where we were making at least 50 detailed frilly calico cushions a week. Things progressed and I had to step up to industrial machines. I am South African and I married an English born chap and for medical reasons we came to England. I still had one of my Elnas in 2005 and gave up the business and sold my Elna. In England I needed a sewing machine and in Cambridge where we live there is one shop selling machines. Then I didn't even have a computer and RUclips I thought was for children. So I sold my house in SA and this was when I went to this shop ready for a new machine. It was a big culture shock, because these people knew less about machines than I did. I was talked into buying a Bernina 330. In SA in the 1970s we got private lessons at the shop until you really knew the machine. Here they asked me what do I want to know? That was in 2010. I hate the Bernina, I don't need electronics when I sew,it's so light it moves when you sew.... I have never really sewed again. Then I got hooked on RUclips and came across old school people who knew real machines. I took a chance and bought a Elna tsp. It arrived and it is spotless, except for the light. I knew how to put a new light in, bought exactly the same bulb as you, magic. But I still didn't cotton on that the bobbin was not moving. When I switched the machine on the motor sounds so smooth. Only when threading it, the bobbin thread didn't come up. So disappointed. I have been on RUclips for a week of intense studying, I made contact with a chap in Niew Zealand, Gary and he said that it sounded like the bottom gear that you have done an amazing video think a year ago. I have got a Polish friend who will have a look and hopefully it is just the gear. I don't trust the mechanics here to work on the machine. You people in the USA have got such a passion for these old beauties and if I had the money I would import an Elna that has been restored by you. Hope you haven't nodded off, but I am so excited that I can show my Polish friend a super video. Keep up the good work. Thanks Anita
Hello, Anita, thank you for your kind note. It makes me happy knowing my little videos are helping people repair their lovely machines. I had no experience with Elna up until about 3 years ago when I found a pink top for sale locally. The motor sounded fine so I brought it home only to discover the exact issue you describe with your TSP; the hook wasn’t turning. At the time there wasn’t a comprehensive video showing how to do the hook pinion gear replacement so I muddled through it using the service documentation and some good advice from the internet. While doing the repair I fell in love with the exquisite quality of these beasts! Once I had it down I reckoned it would be worthwhile to make a video of the replacement process so that others in similar straits would have an easier go of it. After my few years of experience redoing these machines I recommend just replacing both the hook pinion gear and the camstack (Elnagraph) drive pinions. The plastic they used simply gets brittle over the decades and will fail even under normal conditions. Once replaced and with the machines properly cleaned and lubricated they are good to go for another lifetime of sewing. I wish you well with your TSP and if your friend has any questions about the repair procedure I can be reached at elnamech@leahys.net Best wishes and thank you again for your kind note.
Excellent video
Why are replacements for crushed gears made of nylon rather than hardened steel?? Seems like it will strip out much sooner and easier in future??
The original gears were plastic. They used plastic to reduce noise from the hook and cam drive areas and also to provide an emergency strain relief in the event something got jammed or bound up under power. The plastic would fracture before serious damage occurred in the drive system. The problem is those plastic gears were made from materials from half a century ago! They age and get brittle. When that happens sometimes even a minor stress snaps teeth off the old gears. The modern nylon gears provide the noise reduction we want and the stress relief for system binding but won’t just shatter under normal operation. That’s it in a nutshell.
Hi thank you for the information I have an Elna supermatic 62C bought in 19 71 I have being using the zigzag stitch but then changed to straight stitch few moments. later I tried to do a zigzag/over lock stitch it would not give the zigzag stitch i did try to change disc or do a button hole...but its still just giving straight stitch only. Please advise...USHA from South Africa
Is the cam platter turning when you run the machine? Lift the cam access door and watch it as you sew. If it is not turning, or turns briefly and stops/stalls then the problem is caused by a tooth (or more than one tooth) broken off of the cam drive. The cam mechanism (Elnagraph is its technical name) must turn or your will get neither zigzag or any other of the complex stitches.
Hello, I bought an Elna supermatic and I've realized that the motor belt is not aligned. It works, but because it isn't centered it makes clicking sounds. Do you know how to fix this?
Thank youuu !