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Even though I have Graphics on my Mill & Lathe. I always prefer to control the Feeds, ( manually ) on the first part rather than Air Cutting. I do this for 2 reasons. Obviously to save some time and I can physically see the part being cut. I only use Fast Feeds in and around the part and only 25% Rapids for approach and return to home ( mostly because I'm not in a mad rush to make parts asap ) and I can watch the Tools approaching and retracting. I'm not saying this is something you should try, I just find it works well. The Insert profile name you were trying to think of is VBMT. ( I'm sure you remembered it straight after making the video ) 👍

Very nice work. Good looking parts

Although the Steel Wheel is obviously heavier than an Aluminium version. The harmonics from the Steel Wheel will be a lot less. Acting as a dampener for the running noises, and Aluminium always has that annoying Riiiiinnnnggg sound when it's running ??? It's not so bad writing programs by hand on a CNC Lathe. Incremental ( U/W ) cutting is a little easier to think about, especially when you're anywhere near the part. The Chips getting stuck between the Part and the Tool Holder can be a Pain ??? One way you can fix this is to bore a hole through the back of the Tool Holder and allow Coolant to run through and over the side of the Tool Holder. I have always used Sandvik even when I worked in other peoples shop. Stupid Expensive is good way to explain Sandvik 😅 Capto is always expensive too, but it is a good way to mount a Tool. I hear your thoughts about High RPM for a Large Lathe Chuck ?? Not only a little scary, but also the inertia is a lot greater on a Large Chuck, simple things like Chuck Jaw pressure start to come into this also. It's good see you back with another video👍

Haha, everyone loves simple projects which make money. Good to see you turn out precision parts in a small shop.

The stub shaft is not an axis, it`s an axle, but i get what you mean... You got a sub from me... As a fellow machine nut, i am obliged to subscribe to any machinist that i do not want to strangle for their annoying habits(abrasive work on unprotected machinery...) or machine mistreatment(same thing essentially...)... Now, speaking of the shaft you had an issue with -- the answer, as always is more support... Just make a custom support of sorts that will travel with the cutter and engage at depth of the latest pass, thus following the cutter and avoiding any issues with running into shoulders... Two ball bearings akin to a knurling tool would do the job nicely from a good angle... The issue if not caused by the wear of the machine is the lateral deflection of the thin shaft, so just supporting it over and under the center of the part will do nicely to restrain the part, hell, it can be used to push the part into the cutter slightly, and at the same time burnish the part, leaving a very fine surface finish and a good tolerance, as it is imparted by the hardened and ground outer race of the bearings... The other option is a sharper tool, a custom HssCo blade, a custom carbide or cbn(for steel) blade that is ground and honed to supreme finish and has a decently sharp edge, but that is always a fickle method of doing the job... Tools get blunt, custom tools are even worse in that regard and support is just there, unyielding and needing new bearings every so often... Also, why bemoan the mill? Just fix `er up... Scrape the surfaces, give em the sandpaper finish, apply turcite or rulon, scrape that in and voila, a brand new mill, just for you... That is after all the other crap like bearings, worn leadscrews and other crap has been dealt with... Don`t curse the machine, curse the idiot who didn`t oil her properly, nor maintain the systems with dedication and love... A good small-ish manual mill is just like the radial drill, a damn versatile machine that can do some jobs like nothing else can, especially one offs or single pass operations like keyways and such nonsense... Best regards! Steuss

It's good to see you got my message about the comments section 👍 With the parts you're trying to finish to a fairly tight tolerance. You can try using a Carbide Insert that is recommended for Aluminium. It sounds counter to what is used. But the Inserts designed for Aluminium will remove very small amounts of material with very little runout and chatter especially on thinner parts. They will work well on the small shaft you were having trouble with. Give a try next time you're running similar parts, I'm sure you will be happy with not only the surface finish, but the amount of variation you measure. Of course they will wear fairly quickly, but only use them for light finishing and they will last longer 😉

I had to go back to watch one of your older videos to find a comments section ?? On your latest videos you must have your videos set to recommended for Kids ?? Where the comments section seems to be disabled 🤔 It would be good if you could open up the comments section so we can chat with you through the comments section. After watching your latest video " Machine shop talk 1" I can understand what the parts are used for. It's always good IF you can make your own products rather than waiting for customers to send you work. You seem to keep yourself busy building the Belt Linishers 👌 I can also share some ideas on finishing the long shaft with tight tolerances. Hope to chat to you soon in the comments on your latest video. Peter 👍

-2 degrees 🥶 You should try adding some information in your videos to give people a better understanding of what's happening. Hopefully you post a few more videos 👍

Appreciate the tip. But did you need to actually do anything through the hole? Or was it to just see the location of the tumbler?

Ужас, а не пила. То ли дело-современные пилы!!!

Ime,et üldse käima läx,õli segataxe enne bensiiniga ja alles siis paaki...olen ise poisikese põlves käima jooksnud kümnete kilomeetrite viisi,,,huvitav aeg oli 60ndate keskpaik...

mootor saag

Use's two hands for pulling the pull start

mis pommiga on tegu?

much shooting, very nice

You never lay it down what is wrong with you

What the hell is this boy is saying

tähenärija

china

mais faut la laisser monter dans les tours sinon elle avance pas !!! Ou sinon s'est que sait un gai !!!

@mesikamoto what...? ur mum! lol

ok

Seda masinat pole enam alleski, ammu vanarausas:D

müüa ei sooviks mulle w ?

suht kõva püss endal ka selline olemas :D

omg

cool shoes!

@Millard97 its cold u have 2 do 4-6 slow pulls then fast

haha! rain boots on a dirt bike FAIL!

kuradi ilusasti tehtud ,

what language is that?

look my movie please (L)

@JalmarEst : se oli 3 aastat tagasi

:eks ma muudan siis kirjelduse ära! : )

Sul on täitsa õigus.

Ma eeldan,et seda on korralikult putitatud,sest muidu on sellega rohkem parandamise rõõmu.On endal ka sarnane olnud ja kogu aeg läksid kolvirõngad läbi ja küünlad tahmaseks ja oli veel sada muud häda.Mõni Stihl on ikka parem sõber metsas,kui selline,aga siiski,peab kiitma sellist ettevõtmist ja tore on näha,et entusiaste veel leidub.

Tänan ;)

Vägev! Oli endalgi plaan üks Druzba saag ehitada aga esimese hooga jäi see asi poolikuks... .