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Thank you!

Hi! The Red/Orange stain is water based, It takes around 15/20 minutes to dry. The matt finish is acrylic poliurethane, it completely dries in 24 hours.

@@MrBasslayer2 you can find it from 05:00 onwards

@@ENNEN420 🤣

@@agustinmiguelperezperez6464 es cuestión de gustos, el cliente lo quería así ;) simplemente obediente

@@EddyEE1968 Thank you! I'll be building more soon

@@1tzmat048 Couldn't agree more 😉

Like wearing a purple heart without being wounded

Do you kick up the same fuss about faded jeans?

@@CMRWoodworks thank you. even better, the blocks are not glued but screwed with a spacer, so that they also rotate on their axis, making everything more ergonomic in rotation

@@RossLiuteriaItalyoh, nice! Yes, even better.

@@teiltje in Italy the name Is "olio paglierino", it's a mixture of non-drying mineral and vegetable oils. You can use also lemon oil (it's barely the same oil with scent of lemon in it)

@@RossLiuteriaItaly thank you for your answer!🙏

@@mikedifiore4126 thank you :) i'm a woman, actually, but the point is the same ;)

@@barryfisher4734 I Always wear a active carbon filter Mask, I use nitrocellulose basecoat and acrylic clear coat. Here you see a video-purpose pseudo-coat, so that I can prevent the camera from damages by varnish dust and I can avoid masking.

@@RossLiuteriaItaly Thanks for responding and glad to for that. You're an amazing builder.

@@kylec4509 hello, thank you. Unfortunately I had some problems with the camera during the painting process and several steps were missing. for wood staining I use water-based anilines, either in powder or already in liquid form. here I gave a coat of red to bring out the grain of the poplar, then sanded with a fine grain (240/400) and then gave the final orange colour. then I gave it a nitrocellulose-based pore sealer, just one coat, so as not to create thickness. At the end, one coat (or two coats, depending on the effect you want to achieve, whether to keep the pore more open or more closed) of two-component transparent matt acrylic paint. between one coat and the next always sand with 400 grit. I hope it is clear.

@@markdalton6662 I only and exclusively use double action truss rods because, in addition to being much more resistant, they allow the neck to be adjusted in both directions. You don't know how many guitars I get with the single action truss with the backbow neck that can't be adjusted. Many times customers ask me to replace their damaged or no longer working single action truss rod with a new generation double action one, and there is pain because the fingerboard has to be detached and a long and complicated job has to be done.

Hello, I copy and paste the answer I gave before: I Always wear an active carbon filter Mask, I use nitrocellulose basecoat and acrylic clear coat. Here you see a video-purpose pseudo-coat, so that I can prevent the camera from damages by varnish dust and I can avoid masking.

it is a question of availability of the material and above all of stability. There are also single-piece bodies but they are more unstable because they have a more variable grain inside. for greater stability, two parts with the straightest grain possible are used. However, I also often use one-piece bodysuits and tops, it can be done, if you like

I Hope so ;)

Thank you, the big one Is a Bosch 1400AE router, the little one, used for inlays, is similar to a Makita DRT50ZJX2, I can't remember the name

Thank you very much :)

Ciao, grazie :) sì, non ci sono differenze dovute al tipo di strumento, dipende dal gusto del musicista, si possono mettere tasti di tutte le dimensioni e materiali. Tendenzialmente io tendo a usare sulle acustiche i tasti Jescar Evo/Sintoms Special Bronze, perché sono più duri del nickel ma hanno un suono caldo, al contrario dell'acciaio inox. Questo perché durino di più nel tempo, visto che cambiare i tasti ad una chitarra acustica è un intervento molto più invasivo, rispetto a uno strumento elettrico.

@@RossLiuteriaItaly Grazie 1000 per la risposta!!!!