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I bought it on Amazon. It was under $60, so it was worth it. I bought it several months ago, and I forgot that it was intended for just the upper control arm bushings. That explains why it did not work as well on the lower arms.

I found it on Amazon. Search for "drain jetter for pressure washer".

Sand blasting videos can be hypnotizing. I plan to rebuild or refurbish every part possible except for the wear parts. I'm currently searching for a solution to the rivets. My options are hex head bolts, bolt head that look like rivets, and rivets. My preference is the rivets, but I have concerns about reliability. I'm in no hurry, so I will build knowledge and skill with rivets and see if I can alleviate my reliability concerns.

Thanks, and you're welcome.

Thanks for commenting.

Except for a couple of spots needing another coat of epoxy, it turned out as well as I hoped. I'll give those spots another coat when I spray the suspension parts with the epoxy. Next up is sandblasting. I'm not sure how I will get good recordings of the sandblasting.

What are you restoring?

Decals, that seems too easy. Also, I have plans to paint them again along with the intake cover.

@@chadd2715 but the decals also looks more uniform and can be changed out easily. Easy is a good thing lol 😆

I used plans I found online.

@@chadd2715 Are you going to share where you found the plans online?

Yes on the bushings, they are mostly gone. I'm debating with my self on the springs. If I can figure a way to test the spring rates, and they haven't changed, I may keep them. This car is nearly all original. I'm trying to use as many of the original parts as possible.

Congratulations on your sobriety. You're right, if it wasn't for RUclips, I would be doing something else. I've had a couple of trolls, but I just don't respond to them. I care little about the quality of my videos or negative opinions. I do want constructive feedback, because this is my first restoration. I only post videos to give back a little. I get a lot from watching multiple examples of experiences on a subject. So I post for people like me who want to see more.

You are right. It would be an improvement. The factory welds are random and terrible. There are splatter beads everywhere. But I'm restoring to NCRS standards.

I'll tone it down in the future.

Thanks, I may do that after I finish the restoration. I've learned much and I'll learn more before I'm done.

Thanks.

It was the first time I used the turbo nozzle on anything. It is more powerful than a regular nozzle. While I was using it, I thought it would probably damage a good paint job.

@@chadd2715 It’s basically a little bit less velocity as a red tip. The big thing for rust cleaning is the constantly varying angle and location of attack, which dislodges and gets under lifted paint. That’s the same reason pressure washing pros use them to remove muck from driveways and sidewalks. I use my domestic 2.4kw electric machine to power this which is safe for good paint but still removes all lifted paint. If you have a borescope, also part of the drain jetter arsenal, you can inspect your frame and on a whole vehicle, rockers, fenders, etc. BTW, I’m obviously not doing restoration but you have a lot of overlap with us doing oil/wax coating and when we do it with used vehicles we often have to remove as much scale as possible beforehand.

Thanks

Thanks

I'm considering POR15 and Mastercoat. A factor is the level of gloss compared to the factory coating.

@@chadd2715 sounds good. Make sure to weld up the stitch welds. It makes the frame way stronger and doesn't take much time

I considered strengthening the stitch welds, but I'm building for NCRS judging.

@chadd2715 what r ur plans for birdcage Paint/restoration

Yes, I will paint restore and paint the birdcage. I haven't yet removed any of the trip, so I don't know what its condition is.

Thanks for the confirmation.

Thanks!

I'm not familiar with the term "kick up brace". Will you describe? It is a late '68, July. Check out my numbers video.

​@@chadd2715I just found your channel, I'm enjoying it....kick up braces are the two pieces of metal that are in place by the rear cross member and rear outer frame rails. It's stiffer than an earlier 63-e68 frame.

Glad to help

I got it from Corvette Forum. I did a Google search for C3 body dolly plans.

Thanks! I think the plans I got are the same ones, so hopefully it turns out as well as yours did.@@chadd2715

Did you see my body dolly build video? I provided a material list.

@@chadd2715 I will look that up. Thank you!

Hi im doing the same thing i have a 77 can you post a link to the dolly build video /plans it woud really help your doing awesome ​@chadd2715

Ah, you are probably right. It is a turbo 400.

Thanks.

Pressure washing is next. I've delayed the washing while deciding how to remove the tank build sheet. It is probably a lost cause. Also, I've been researching rust removal and frame coatings. The leading candidate is Mastercoat. Thanks, for the information about other possible build sheet locations.

@@chadd2715 Looks like you've got good access holes in the frame. You might be able to fit a 1/4" drain jetter in there and flush out the inside of the frame. A cheap one from Amazon would do there. The ideal nozzle for this would be the rotating jetter. Might be worth a shot as it will leave you with a properly cleaned inner frame suitable for a wax or oil coating. I'd avoid anything that cures or sets hard, though. The hard coatings tend to trap moisture and speed up the rusting process.

I'm checking into the rotating drain jetter. Thank, for the recommendation.

In my latest video, I use the drain jetter you suggested. It should be up later today.

I should post a follow up video, and I still might. Replacing the clogged thermal relieve valve masked the real problem, the pump was going bad. As the pump started to go bad, it would heat up a little, and the clogged thermal relieve valve would cause a stall. Replacing the valve helped, but as the pump further declined, friction increased, and more heat developed. A couple months after I replaced the valve, it was stalling again. I thought about replacing the pump, but a replacement would cost around $200. I decided to purchase a new power washer instead.

I'm sorry to hear you can no longer take on your own projects, but it is good to hear you gain some amount of satisfaction from watching my progress.

Thanks. What did you use to paint/coat your frame and suspension components?

@@chadd2715 i wire brushed the entire frame and then I used the 3 step system from por 15. ruclips.net/video/Oe3eUkWilVw/видео.htmlsi=KlJBOq8je7kpmPfO

If you watch from the beginning, you will see that I expected to fix a few things to put it back on the road, but that didn't work out. I always plan to do a full restoration. I just hoped to enjoy driving the car a little before getting into it.

I'm glad you're enjoying the videos.

Thanks, it went better than expected.

Thanks for commenting. By the way the link did not work.

I plan to restore it to original condition, or at least as close as I can get it.

It's getting there.

Thanks for sharing.

Yes, thanks

I have one set that never works. I showed one on the video. I have another set that works some times. I tried them, but I didn't put them in the video. The plug metal was so soft, they worked farther into the hole instead of removing the plug. I didn't want to cause a crack. Yesterday, I broke a couple of the smaller extractors removing rusty bolts from the rocker panels. I'm asking Santa for a new set of square and tapered. Thanks for the suggestion.

I was a too cautious.

True

Thanks for the suggestion. I have a C4 that may need an overhaul soon. It runs okay, but at the first sign of trouble it is coming out.

I've heard that too. It seems like a restriction.

Very. My brother did it to my Chevelle and I never had a problem but my luck isn't like that anymore. Now if I push it in the coolant passageway I'd find it in the oil pan lol

That is funny.

According to the information below, I have medium crank journals. small = 2.30" mains, 2.00" rods Medium = 2.45" mains, 2.10" rods Large = 2.65" mains, 2.10" rods (400 cid)

Their is no such thing as medium journals... They are either small or large journals, you listed the two different sizes on a large journal crank and small journal crank. Large journal crank didn't come out until 1968...

I won't debate what to call it. What I can confirm are the measurement. I don't have a micrometer. I used a caliper, so it is approximately 2.45" for the mains and approximately 2.10" for the rods.

​@@chadd2715That's what it suppose to be for a large journal crank and the rods,thanks...