It is impossible to find one video of this crack fix product being used properly. So, is it supposed to just squirt an oil like substance the entire time, or will it mix and come out like gray caulking?
This product is a little easier and faster but it cost a whole lot more if you dig your hole properly one 80 lb bag of Quikrete is more than sufficient and at $ 3.15 a bag is about 5 times cheaper then fome. With an average size fence you're talking about an additional $500-700. Now for a small project of town or less post I would definitely use this product
a proper fence post hole needs to be below the frost line which is usually 4ft deep, if the hole is 6" in diameter and you are using 4x4 posts you would need 2 bags of ready-mix concrete vs 1 bag of this stuff. Your math is a little off and you are getting concrete at a really great price. Don't forget cost of transporting and labor plus time it takes to mix concrete...
Hey another video saying "leveling of the post"; level is a horizontal term, get the post "plumb". Plumb is for vertical. Carpentry 101 terminology guys!!
Some simple math is in order. What is the volume inside the tube that the foam has to fill? The 2-dimensional cross-sectional area inside the tube is (π*R^2 - 3.5^2) where R is the inside diameter of the tube (4"). This equals 38 square inches. The volume the foam must fill is therefore 38 * 36" = 1370 cubic inches, or 0.8 CF. At the 3:20 mark, the demonstrator says that one bag will fill 1.0CF. Looking at Sika's own data sheet for the foam, they say 0.7 CF. 1.0CF, 0.8CF, or 0.7CF. Which is correct? There is a large discrepancy between 1.0CF and 0.8CF. If the foam really expands to 1.0CF, then there should have been a very large overflow. Instead, the foam barely clears the top of the tube. I think there was a bit of deception in the demonstration in that I have found that there are 3 flavors of 8"D cardboard tubes, minimum, nominal, and maximum. The nominal ID is 8.0", but a few that I found tubes at Lowes were 7-3/8" ID. I am no expert on Sonatube, but I think this is so that you can stack the 4'-long tubes to make taller structures, fitting one larger-diameter tube over a smaller-diameter tube, stacking them as you go higher. That 4x4 post looks like it crowds the tube quite a bit, so I'm betting he purposely chose a smaller ID tube for his demonstration, which would only require 0.63CF of foam volume to fill it. For this reason, I think Sika's published number of 0.7CF of expanded foam size is the correct number in real life. It is definitely NOT 1.0CF! Good luck digging precisely an 8"D hole in dirt. If your hole is 8.5" in diameter, that's an increase in hole volume of 13%. All you need to do is miss by a tiny amount during your post hole digging, and you're going to need more than one pouch of the foam. Moral of the story: buy more foam than you need so that you have extra foam right there on hand. Take back what you don't use. Very interesting product, BTW.
LIKE ANY FOAM IT IS NOT AS SOLID AS CONCRETE. IT HAS GIVE TO IT AND OVER TIME YOUR FENCE WILL BE LOOSE. ESPECIALLY ONCE THE WIND PUSHES IT AROUND. TALKING FROM EXPERIENCE WITH THE PRODUCT. IT DOESN'T MATTER WHICH FOAM PRODUCT YOU USE BUT YES SOME ARE BETTER THAN OTHERS.
1 cf should fill a 8" diameter tube with 3.5" x 3.5" post to 3 ft 9 inches tall. Is that cylinder coming from the ground up or does it start on top the previous layer of fill?
Just installed 10 posts for a new 5' tall welded wire fence using this Sika product. Great product, super easy and fast to use. Simple clean up too. I've watched quite a few videos about this product, and am glad I bought it. Highly recommended for the wet weather of the Pacific Northwest!
Cost per bag for this versus concrete which requires also hauling around a hose or barrel/bucket of water depending on location and a mixing vessel to properly mix the concrete and not just dump it in the hole and hope it gets enough water to mix and set which is completely the wrong way that many often DIYers go. The cost outweighs the benefits of carrying around several 2 lb bags of foam mix and you can many more posts in much less time since concrete requires a few days to harden before you can go about doing the rest, where as the foam allows you to continue on building after 15 minutes or a few hours
Jim, I wish I could have had this when I used a manual post hole digger, regular concrete, and cut my own black locust trees down and took off bark with thorns---cut into 6’ lengths, then used a come along with spools of barbed wire for a fence 150 yards up a hill on my farm. I have used foam to set drain pipes under kitchen sinks in mobile homes too. So if by “buddies” I hope you ALSO mean us women?
OF the three who makes this says it is practical for metal and vinyl as well, I would recommend putting in a few screws or a through bolt or even a length of rebar in the vinyl post to give it more anchoring power to the foam despite the foams already adhesive feature. Only use on outside of hollow post though, as some of it will naturally expand inside at the base.
Ok maybe a dumb question, I have to erect 2 12'-14' posts to hold motion sensing solar powered lights at the rear of a parking lot. With that height will the foam hold as well as concrete? The posts may also experience the odd push from snow being plowed but nothing big.
Foam holds better than any concrete. Foam glues itself to the post and the Earth. Concrete doesn't hardly stick at all to wood and not at all to dirt. Pull a concreted post from the ground and hit with a hammer. You will see how easily the concrete falls off the post.
A fox built a den in the face of a terrace doing great damage. Instead of bringing in a bull dozer to rebuild the terrace, I want to use expanding foam to fill the den and all it's branches and rooms. What I need to know; what is the SIKA product coefficient of expansion?what is the pressure exerted by expansion at 15psi atmosphere? if I pour the liquid down the fox hole, some of the liquid is going to begin to expand before it flows into other parts of the fox den. Does the SIKA product need oxygen to expand or will it continue to expand after foam displaces oxygen in areas of the den? I need answers TONIGHT ! If it rains before I remedy my terrace problem I could lose the whole terrace.
let say there is 20 posts to set into the ground, now you got a choice of 20 bags of foam alone to carry totaling as much weight as say one bag of concrete which also requires water and a bucket with water to mix with and in and a tool to mix with as well in this case the post hole digger would suffice for mixing the concrete. The Bag of foam you just remove the clip or other seal keeping the two parts separate and mixing for at least 15 seconds and just cut a corner of the bag to pour out is way easier to handle and more instant setting than lugging a bag, mixing and then lugging the mix into the hole and then waiting for a few days for said 'instant' set concrete to actually cure. Where as with the foam you can continue with the job in just 15 minutes after pouring and it is just a sack to lug around and more easier to handle on a more remote project even.
Please explain your personal experience with how YOUR foam posts failed. This foam has a 40 year life. The wood 4x4 will rot away way before then. Just say YOU have never used it and know nothing about it. That's what I read from your comment.
Tell that to the utility companies using this is larger volumes for their utility poles or towers as backfill and for greater anchoring for the last 20 years at the least.
would that work for below grade fix for a broken concrete foundation that is cracked thru with a gap of about 1/2 inch wide by 12 inches high. (approximate measurements). the thing is there is several in the foundation that is worse.
what is the environmental problems as the decay rate of the polyurethane and the leaching of chemicals into the environment. concrete is lime and after leaching will be used by the plants. what uses polyurethane for growth.
+Calvin Brown The foam is classified as inert. Who knows what the truth really is. The bigger problem is the pressure treated lumber people use. I'd be worried far more about the chemicals from that leaching than I would about the poly foam.
Utility companies have been using this same expanding foam in their pole works in certain cases with much success in the past 20 years at the least, and the ones I know of who make this stuff claim at least 30 years of life as long as you cover it from sun to keep it from being discolored. Acetone will only hurt the outer surface as it is a closed cell product.
There is misleading information in this video. the shrinkage of concrete will tighten the bond of the concrete onto the post not shrink away from the post. Also may work on thick timber posts but when narrow steel fencing posts are used the stress on the foam will be much higher. It would be interesting to see some testing on these steel posts.
Concrete doesn't stick hardly at all to a wooden post. I just dug up 16 concreted posts. Pull from the ground and most posts, the concrete fell off lifting out of the hole. Other posts a small hit with a simple hammer had the concrete off in one to three swings. Concrete is all about physical dead weight only. It doesn't stick to wood like this foam and definitely doesn't stick to dirt.
Secure Set which is another brand of the same type of foam fix has a few testing demonstration videos available for anyone to view on their channel. they show the uplift force until the soil around it gives away for both their product and that of concrete, along with a sidepull demonstration but not as thorough as the uplift tests.
And they are back replacing the posts when they rot off in 3-5 years. Concrete absorbs water like a sponge. Which wicks it to the wood. What's next, post rot people. Hello. No chance of this with foam.
Also how could that little bit of foam replace a pallet of quick mix.42 bags of 80 lb bags come on a pallet. That's around 4000 pounds of concrete take your bullshit somewhere else I'm a contractor I work with this s*** everyday don't be trying to rip people off man
Here goes. Lazy America doesn't like to load 4000lbs of concrete, THEN unload it in your yard. That's 8000lbs you have to move compared to foam, what 50-100lbs at max? Winner foam. Foam keeps moisture totally away from the posts. Concrete absorbs water like a sponge. Winner again foam. This is the major cause of post rot. Longevity of foam is over 40 years. Concrete is long lasting but a 4x4 will rot out in 3-5 years with concrete. Winner foam. Foam is inert and doesn't leach anything. Winner foam. You need water to mix concrete at the job site, not needed for foam. Winner foam. Bugs won't eat the foam or concrete, tie. Here's a big one, foam is stronger. That foam glues itself to the dirt/soil AND to the post like mad. Concrete doesn't stick or adhere to dirt period. Which means your post is glued into the Earth. Winner again foam. Foam cures hard as a rock like concrete does, tie. Another big one set and cure times. Foam sets in roughly 3-5 minutes and cures to full strength in 45 minutes. Regular concrete sets in days/weeks and cures in 28 days. Are you serious? Winner foam. Way less return trips to the job site wasting fuel and labor. This is how a "little bit of foam replaces concrete". Faster installation, no water required, MUCH lighter, stronger than concrete and on and on.............Oh and you mix foam with a drill, not a shovel and a wheel barrel which saves you money from not buying. Concrete is old school. Step up to the new technology people. If I was a contractor I would only used foam. It's good enough for telephone posts so what's your REAL issues? Other than you are not using it? LOL Shall we talk about the messy dust and destroyed clothes from concrete?
Hell no just one 60 lb bag of concrete would hold a post for years. This foam is no different than the great stuff, after that fence gets pulled on a few good times it will come lose. Concrete cures for a hundred years get stronger with age.that will get weaker quickly
You need to do more reading fella. Just one high light, concrete absorbs water like a sponge. Which wicks it to the 4x4 wooden post. What do you think happens next? Yup post rot. No chance of this happening with foam. Great Stuff is a foam but NOT the same type as for fencing. Get back in school jr.
Good Grief some idiots and fools are so still misinformed despite the vast information available these days, even if they know how to use the internet, they still do not bother to take time to read the information including the FAQ on this compared to other expanding foams. Then again there are those who are doing this stuff just to troll other idiots. I rather lug around 30 bags of foam set mix than have to lug around 60 of the 60 lb bags of concrete mix along with water and tools to mix it in and with, and yes concrete does lead to faster post rot. NO, spray foam is and adhesive grade of filler type and this stuff is more industrial strength and more adhesive and expansive than spray foam in a can and far easier to handle and work with than the can stuff. Many utility companies have been using this type of foam though in larger gallon quantities in certain a cases of backfilling for at least 20 years now with far better results than concrete or filling the remaining hole void with the soil that was removed.
you need to use a 1 foot diameter hole with a four inch post. I will used about 15 dollars of concrete compared to $30 worth of this stuff. Use an oil based sealant on all wood and let it cure before setting any posts. you will be good a few years. Furthermore, how do you seal the bottom against wood rot if the post is sitting on dirt?
Sika, Secure Set, and Fast2k or ay others recommend a 8 inch hole diameter for a 4 by 4 post. 12 inch may make most sense for larger diameter posts, but not really feasible for a small diameter post, basically at most 2 inches larger diameter than the post size and at least 30 inches depth of hole. Also no need for sealing the post as it would or may not allow the foam to adhere to the post in question as it is not just a foam but also a self serving adhesive. and closed cell = no soaking up water like concrete does and thus also no need for gravel at the base, not to mention I very rarely seen a post get rotted down to the base end. I can see using gravel if the soil has a fairly high water table or long term water retention.
It is impossible to find one video of this crack fix product being used properly. So, is it supposed to just squirt an oil like substance the entire time, or will it mix and come out like gray caulking?
Hint to anyone using this product, don't cut bags till fully ready as once mixed sets very quickly😉 found out the hard way
Easy to get rid of versus concrete.
Why will it not hold brick veneer on block wall?
I'm using this to hang stone ledger on vertical plywood around my fireplace. Hope it works!
I try this yesterday after 24 hrs some places is hard as glass some are total liquid not dry at all it is garbage !!!! It is garbage !!!
Whats this product called
6:00 - Background noise sounds like someone knocked a bunch of stuff off shelves. “Clean-up isle 9”
So why not on a deck? I didnt quite understand his explanation.
Getting ready to give this product test run on multi-layer concrete block steps. Fingers crossed.
Did u try this product Sikabond 115 ?
Nice demo. Thanks!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 people are buying this stuff 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
This product is a little easier and faster but it cost a whole lot more if you dig your hole properly one 80 lb bag of Quikrete is more than sufficient and at $ 3.15 a bag is about 5 times cheaper then fome. With an average size fence you're talking about an additional $500-700. Now for a small project of town or less post I would definitely use this product
Ya but that concrete costs you more than $500 in labor hours
a proper fence post hole needs to be below the frost line which is usually 4ft deep, if the hole is 6" in diameter and you are using 4x4 posts you would need 2 bags of ready-mix concrete vs 1 bag of this stuff. Your math is a little off and you are getting concrete at a really great price. Don't forget cost of transporting and labor plus time it takes to mix concrete...
Where are the ladys in bikinis??
Hey another video saying "leveling of the post"; level is a horizontal term, get the post "plumb". Plumb is for vertical. Carpentry 101 terminology guys!!
How much time take to dry this product?
depends on the temperature. 12-14 hours below 70F, 1-2 above 90
Can you hang a gate on it?
Yes
Concrete is the best Buddy thanks
Don't fall for it that stuff is junk I had to redo my whole fence with concrete
This video isn't for Sika Post Fix ya doofus, its for Sika Crack Fix. This has zero to do with fences.
Some simple math is in order. What is the volume inside the tube that the foam has to fill? The 2-dimensional cross-sectional area inside the tube is (π*R^2 - 3.5^2) where R is the inside diameter of the tube (4"). This equals 38 square inches. The volume the foam must fill is therefore 38 * 36" = 1370 cubic inches, or 0.8 CF. At the 3:20 mark, the demonstrator says that one bag will fill 1.0CF. Looking at Sika's own data sheet for the foam, they say 0.7 CF. 1.0CF, 0.8CF, or 0.7CF. Which is correct? There is a large discrepancy between 1.0CF and 0.8CF. If the foam really expands to 1.0CF, then there should have been a very large overflow. Instead, the foam barely clears the top of the tube. I think there was a bit of deception in the demonstration in that I have found that there are 3 flavors of 8"D cardboard tubes, minimum, nominal, and maximum. The nominal ID is 8.0", but a few that I found tubes at Lowes were 7-3/8" ID. I am no expert on Sonatube, but I think this is so that you can stack the 4'-long tubes to make taller structures, fitting one larger-diameter tube over a smaller-diameter tube, stacking them as you go higher. That 4x4 post looks like it crowds the tube quite a bit, so I'm betting he purposely chose a smaller ID tube for his demonstration, which would only require 0.63CF of foam volume to fill it. For this reason, I think Sika's published number of 0.7CF of expanded foam size is the correct number in real life. It is definitely NOT 1.0CF! Good luck digging precisely an 8"D hole in dirt. If your hole is 8.5" in diameter, that's an increase in hole volume of 13%. All you need to do is miss by a tiny amount during your post hole digging, and you're going to need more than one pouch of the foam. Moral of the story: buy more foam than you need so that you have extra foam right there on hand. Take back what you don't use. Very interesting product, BTW.
Nice math powers
Terrible product. Bad idea
I want to lots of. Kit for a bissuness can you contact me kbvasoya7@gmail.com
THANKS FOR UPLOADING
🙄🙄🙄
The sika bond same product as shown in the video available in india?.What is the price ?
LIKE ANY FOAM IT IS NOT AS SOLID AS CONCRETE. IT HAS GIVE TO IT AND OVER TIME YOUR FENCE WILL BE LOOSE. ESPECIALLY ONCE THE WIND PUSHES IT AROUND. TALKING FROM EXPERIENCE WITH THE PRODUCT. IT DOESN'T MATTER WHICH FOAM PRODUCT YOU USE BUT YES SOME ARE BETTER THAN OTHERS.
1 cf should fill a 8" diameter tube with 3.5" x 3.5" post to 3 ft 9 inches tall. Is that cylinder coming from the ground up or does it start on top the previous layer of fill?
Thank you for explaining it 👍 It helped me a lot in understanding it. We’ll be going to Home Depot tomorrow to buy the things I need for a light post
WILL THIS ALSO WORK WITH A HEAVY POST ?
Wish the audio had been better.
How about wet pressure treated wood to wet pressure treated wood?
Just installed 10 posts for a new 5' tall welded wire fence using this Sika product. Great product, super easy and fast to use. Simple clean up too. I've watched quite a few videos about this product, and am glad I bought it. Highly recommended for the wet weather of the Pacific Northwest!
Is it still there? I saw another demo, where the guy came back in 2 days and there were gaps all around and inside ot it?
$10 a bag, get pricey real quick putting up a fence.
Cost per bag for this versus concrete which requires also hauling around a hose or barrel/bucket of water depending on location and a mixing vessel to properly mix the concrete and not just dump it in the hole and hope it gets enough water to mix and set which is completely the wrong way that many often DIYers go. The cost outweighs the benefits of carrying around several 2 lb bags of foam mix and you can many more posts in much less time since concrete requires a few days to harden before you can go about doing the rest, where as the foam allows you to continue on building after 15 minutes or a few hours
You got me sold...I'm definitely going to use this.
ruclips.net/video/pI-pCSxD0GY/видео.html
this company is awesome
What type of sikaflex is it?
Jim, I wish I could have had this when I used a manual post hole digger, regular concrete, and cut my own black locust trees down and took off bark with thorns---cut into 6’ lengths, then used a come along with spools of barbed wire for a fence 150 yards up a hill on my farm. I have used foam to set drain pipes under kitchen sinks in mobile homes too. So if by “buddies” I hope you ALSO mean us women?
does it work on vinyl fence posts?
OF the three who makes this says it is practical for metal and vinyl as well, I would recommend putting in a few screws or a through bolt or even a length of rebar in the vinyl post to give it more anchoring power to the foam despite the foams already adhesive feature. Only use on outside of hollow post though, as some of it will naturally expand inside at the base.
Ok maybe a dumb question, I have to erect 2 12'-14' posts to hold motion sensing solar powered lights at the rear of a parking lot. With that height will the foam hold as well as concrete? The posts may also experience the odd push from snow being plowed but nothing big.
Foam holds better than any concrete. Foam glues itself to the post and the Earth. Concrete doesn't hardly stick at all to wood and not at all to dirt. Pull a concreted post from the ground and hit with a hammer. You will see how easily the concrete falls off the post.
Thank you very much for the prompt response! I'm sold.
Electrical companies use this to put up poles to hold power lines. The only adjustment you would have to make is the depth of which you set your post.
It's a great product for practical jokers! Just pour it into someones car and watch the hilarity!
A fox built a den in the face of a terrace doing great damage. Instead of bringing in a bull dozer to rebuild the terrace, I want to use expanding foam to fill the den and all it's branches and rooms. What I need to know; what is the SIKA product coefficient of expansion?what is the pressure exerted by expansion at 15psi atmosphere? if I pour the liquid down the fox hole, some of the liquid is going to begin to expand before it flows into other parts of the fox den. Does the SIKA product need oxygen to expand or will it continue to expand after foam displaces oxygen in areas of the den? I need answers TONIGHT ! If it rains before I remedy my terrace problem I could lose the whole terrace.
one bag is 100lb. of cement..... but you can only use it once...... WTF
You can only use a bag of concrete once, moron.
let say there is 20 posts to set into the ground, now you got a choice of 20 bags of foam alone to carry totaling as much weight as say one bag of concrete which also requires water and a bucket with water to mix with and in and a tool to mix with as well in this case the post hole digger would suffice for mixing the concrete. The Bag of foam you just remove the clip or other seal keeping the two parts separate and mixing for at least 15 seconds and just cut a corner of the bag to pour out is way easier to handle and more instant setting than lugging a bag, mixing and then lugging the mix into the hole and then waiting for a few days for said 'instant' set concrete to actually cure. Where as with the foam you can continue with the job in just 15 minutes after pouring and it is just a sack to lug around and more easier to handle on a more remote project even.
@@metusbatmanv1068 THANK GOD FOR MORONS LIKE YOU DUDE.
Not a very professional long term fix.
Please explain your personal experience with how YOUR foam posts failed. This foam has a 40 year life. The wood 4x4 will rot away way before then. Just say YOU have never used it and know nothing about it. That's what I read from your comment.
Tell that to the utility companies using this is larger volumes for their utility poles or towers as backfill and for greater anchoring for the last 20 years at the least.
would that work for below grade fix for a broken concrete foundation that is cracked thru with a gap of about 1/2 inch wide by 12 inches high. (approximate measurements). the thing is there is several in the foundation that is worse.
what is the environmental problems as the decay rate of the polyurethane and the leaching of chemicals into the environment. concrete is lime and after leaching will be used by the plants. what uses polyurethane for growth.
+Calvin Brown The foam is classified as inert. Who knows what the truth really is. The bigger problem is the pressure treated lumber people use. I'd be worried far more about the chemicals from that leaching than I would about the poly foam.
Utility companies have been using this same expanding foam in their pole works in certain cases with much success in the past 20 years at the least, and the ones I know of who make this stuff claim at least 30 years of life as long as you cover it from sun to keep it from being discolored. Acetone will only hurt the outer surface as it is a closed cell product.
There is misleading information in this video. the shrinkage of concrete will tighten the bond of the concrete onto the post not shrink away from the post. Also may work on thick timber posts but when narrow steel fencing posts are used the stress on the foam will be much higher. It would be interesting to see some testing on these steel posts.
+Charles Camenzuli The post itself tends to shrink over time also, at a certain point both are going to lose contact with the post.
Concrete doesn't stick hardly at all to a wooden post. I just dug up 16 concreted posts. Pull from the ground and most posts, the concrete fell off lifting out of the hole. Other posts a small hit with a simple hammer had the concrete off in one to three swings. Concrete is all about physical dead weight only. It doesn't stick to wood like this foam and definitely doesn't stick to dirt.
Secure Set which is another brand of the same type of foam fix has a few testing demonstration videos available for anyone to view on their channel. they show the uplift force until the soil around it gives away for both their product and that of concrete, along with a sidepull demonstration but not as thorough as the uplift tests.
Yea, I wonder if this is best with wood? Because in the steel pole demo video, it pulls itself away from the post after a few days.
One more thing most people just place the pole then dump the concrete. And spray it with water n call it a day..
And they are back replacing the posts when they rot off in 3-5 years. Concrete absorbs water like a sponge. Which wicks it to the wood. What's next, post rot people. Hello. No chance of this with foam.
Steel posts, moron.
totally agree, steel posts, with a bag concrete.
Also how could that little bit of foam replace a pallet of quick mix.42 bags of 80 lb bags come on a pallet. That's around 4000 pounds of concrete take your bullshit somewhere else I'm a contractor I work with this s*** everyday don't be trying to rip people off man
Here goes. Lazy America doesn't like to load 4000lbs of concrete, THEN unload it in your yard. That's 8000lbs you have to move compared to foam, what 50-100lbs at max? Winner foam. Foam keeps moisture totally away from the posts. Concrete absorbs water like a sponge. Winner again foam. This is the major cause of post rot. Longevity of foam is over 40 years. Concrete is long lasting but a 4x4 will rot out in 3-5 years with concrete. Winner foam. Foam is inert and doesn't leach anything. Winner foam. You need water to mix concrete at the job site, not needed for foam. Winner foam. Bugs won't eat the foam or concrete, tie. Here's a big one, foam is stronger. That foam glues itself to the dirt/soil AND to the post like mad. Concrete doesn't stick or adhere to dirt period. Which means your post is glued into the Earth. Winner again foam. Foam cures hard as a rock like concrete does, tie. Another big one set and cure times. Foam sets in roughly 3-5 minutes and cures to full strength in 45 minutes. Regular concrete sets in days/weeks and cures in 28 days. Are you serious? Winner foam. Way less return trips to the job site wasting fuel and labor. This is how a "little bit of foam replaces concrete". Faster installation, no water required, MUCH lighter, stronger than concrete and on and on.............Oh and you mix foam with a drill, not a shovel and a wheel barrel which saves you money from not buying. Concrete is old school. Step up to the new technology people. If I was a contractor I would only used foam. It's good enough for telephone posts so what's your REAL issues? Other than you are not using it? LOL Shall we talk about the messy dust and destroyed clothes from concrete?
@@jimdavidson5208 UHHH! what is the drill for?
Mixing the foam. Most everyone has a drill so you don't have to buy one just for a fence project. Winner again foam.
Hell no just one 60 lb bag of concrete would hold a post for years. This foam is no different than the great stuff, after that fence gets pulled on a few good times it will come lose. Concrete cures for a hundred years get stronger with age.that will get weaker quickly
You need to do more reading fella. Just one high light, concrete absorbs water like a sponge. Which wicks it to the 4x4 wooden post. What do you think happens next? Yup post rot. No chance of this happening with foam. Great Stuff is a foam but NOT the same type as for fencing. Get back in school jr.
Shawn P - The foam isn't the same as great stuff, moron...
Good Grief some idiots and fools are so still misinformed despite the vast information available these days, even if they know how to use the internet, they still do not bother to take time to read the information including the FAQ on this compared to other expanding foams. Then again there are those who are doing this stuff just to troll other idiots. I rather lug around 30 bags of foam set mix than have to lug around 60 of the 60 lb bags of concrete mix along with water and tools to mix it in and with, and yes concrete does lead to faster post rot. NO, spray foam is and adhesive grade of filler type and this stuff is more industrial strength and more adhesive and expansive than spray foam in a can and far easier to handle and work with than the can stuff. Many utility companies have been using this type of foam though in larger gallon quantities in certain a cases of backfilling for at least 20 years now with far better results than concrete or filling the remaining hole void with the soil that was removed.
RIGHT ON DUDE. FINALLY SOMEONE WITH COMMON SENSE.
you need to use a 1 foot diameter hole with a four inch post. I will used about 15 dollars of concrete compared to $30 worth of this stuff. Use an oil based sealant on all wood and let it cure before setting any posts. you will be good a few years. Furthermore, how do you seal the bottom against wood rot if the post is sitting on dirt?
Gravel, moron.
Sika, Secure Set, and Fast2k or ay others recommend a 8 inch hole diameter for a 4 by 4 post. 12 inch may make most sense for larger diameter posts, but not really feasible for a small diameter post, basically at most 2 inches larger diameter than the post size and at least 30 inches depth of hole. Also no need for sealing the post as it would or may not allow the foam to adhere to the post in question as it is not just a foam but also a self serving adhesive. and closed cell = no soaking up water like concrete does and thus also no need for gravel at the base, not to mention I very rarely seen a post get rotted down to the base end. I can see using gravel if the soil has a fairly high water table or long term water retention.
GRAVEL DOES NOT SEAL ANYTHING. IT ONLY ALLOW A SPACE FOR MORE WATER TO POOL UP. @@metusbatmanv1068