Видео

S.E. Michigan

@@larryreno8293 thanks for the response. I see coolant boiling in the tank after leakage issue is fixed. Do you think it’s head gasket issue?

@@dblackkw good luck with your purchase. I’m a fan of the Workhorse chassis and powertrain.

@@moe3575lou 10nm on the small fasteners and 12nm on the larger fasteners.

@@TSchra37 you’re welcome.

@@ericgalvan3589 repair it. That year had a extended warranty on the engine for coolant loss due to head gasket failure.

I hope this was helpful.

There is a strong possibility that the wire is broken and depending on suspension compression or angle the wire is making contact. During the diagnostic test if the wire was broken and touching the other end it would pass the test. Check the flex point of the wires on both sides, inspect for corrosion or broken wires.

The connection at the sensor itself was not disconnected. At the 2:55 mark I talk about the harness entering the vehicle and you see multiple connectors there, that is where I was working and I can remember how it came apart. I work on many vehicles a day and the all blur together. If you are trying to disconnect the sensor connection at the wheel spindle you will have to pull up on the colored connector lock then push down on the tab. It is probably filled with silt/ road dirt making it hard to release and disconnect. You can try cleaning the dirt off with compressed air and water to soften the mud. What is you issue with the vehicle?

@@larryreno8293thanks, it was the engine side I was struggling with. I’ve got it off now, I’m about to do a continuity test when a tester arrived. The passenger side colours are brown & purple/orange. Incase anyone is reading this in the future.

The break in mine is on the brown wire, but it’s not where it show in this video. I’ve taken the sheath off where yours was broken and there is no continuity between that are and the ABS connector. I’m waiting on a price for a garage to replace the loom, if it’s crazy money I’ll run my own wire front to back to replace the whole of that brown wire.

@@anthdci a acceptable repair is to simply splice the wire at the point of failure just remember to use a self sealing heat shrink . If needed, reroute the harness to allow more radius for flexibility. Oddly enough the customer called me 8 months later and again the vehicle was stuck in the driveway, unable to move.

@@larryreno8293 I was quoted for a full loom which ran into thousands by the time it ran through the interior of the car. So I’m going to run a complete replacement wire from the ABS connector right back to next to the rear wheel, obviously leave more on it to flex in future. Doing that tomorrow when I’ve got access to a lift.

Once I found the bolt, about2 hours.

Why even ask this question?

@@larryreno8293 Cause im not a square stealing time doing irrelevant videos... I learned to question incorrections.

Bingo! It looks little bit different on the left side,but one of them was broken..... 🙁 Now it works. Shame. It's 20's Modell, not 19's. Volvo said last week, it's about 1000 USD repair. They know, it's a construction problem, but no reason for "goodwill" repair. My Toyota Land Cruiser Prado V6 is about 7 years old and 120k miles are already done. Never stopped for any reason and only one repair with 100k miles was a change of front brake calipers. Total Price - 0 USD. Goodwill from Toyota..... 👍

I’m very happy this has helped 👍😊

The brake issue I am referring to is one that happens when the brakes get hot

I’m glad it helped you, sorry for the poor lighting.

Just bleed them like you normally would. Are you dealing with this issue yourself! You may want to clear the old fluid from the reservoir while your doing this.

That’s crazy… I know the caliper can fall off but I’m surprised it didn’t jam in the wheel causing lock up.

@harrybalsonya5619 The vehicle was only driven about 5 miles home. Luckily, it wasn't someone's car leaving for a long drive. Thanks for the comment. 👍

You are probably right. I really wasn’t feeling like climbing under this one to get at it.

We're you able to reach it from under the car?

@@miguelbTGOD No. There's no way to get to it unless you are using a long extension. I do not know why they designed it that way.

shoot, i'm on my wifes' account. lol my bad.

@@soniawilson6285 thanks man, i also have the turbo in the way, hopefully it isn't worst ahaha

I didn’t replace the wire, I simply repaired the broken wire. You can see the repair at the 6:13 mark. I used a barrel union (splice) that I crimped on and put a self sealing heat shrink tube on it. I’m happy I was able to help someone with this problem.

This was just a quick video for the owner. I had to load it to YT so he could view it. Had I given it any thought I would have made a proper video.🤷‍♂️

​@@larryreno8293 well, RUclips for some reason decided to recommwnd this to me 😂

I guess I’m ok with that 👍👍

According to the customer the vehicle was in service for about 6 months but was parked when problems arose last year. According to the customer it was a “friend” at a transmission shop working a side deal. The bell housing and pump assembly appear to be a used piece that had been installed on that transmission but my feeling is he never inspected the replacement part before installing. That was a $2000 mistake. A company named Sonnex has some amazing upgrades for that transmission that improve known areas of fluid pressure loss along with modified valves that really enhance the shift speed and feel of engagement.

This is a 2.0 turbo.

I originally deleted the gasket and used Permatex Moto Seal. The reason for the gasket delete was to increase the compression but because the cylinder and piston were not the greatest quality the engine was freeporting. Freeporting is when the piston is at TDC the crankcase is open to atmosphere. Adding sealer wouldn’t help because the sealer is very thin when torqued.

You’re right, it’s hit or miss with this stuff. I have 2 ford vehicles with nearly 200,000 on them and they’re fine. The funny thing is, that when our fluids distributor brings our bulk orange coolant to the dealership it is dispensed as a clear fluid into our tank, he then adds the color to it. When I asked him about it he claimed that most of what is delivered is a long life coolant that is compatible with OAT, HOAT and low silicate coolant, he adds what ever color is needed to look correct for the application. Go figure 🤷‍♂️

If I told you I knew I would be lying. I didn’t focus on changing the timing as much as opening up the ports and smoothing out casting imperfections. I can’t recall if I addressed it in the video but the transfer ports weren’t equal, one opened much sooner than the other, now that’s quality 🤣🤣

I’m not sure if changing the coolant now will help because you have a 100k on it now, but it can’t hurt to try. Full disclosure, I don’t know what the history is of this coolant and engine. This was a totaled vehicle that was repaired by a collision shop and sold. The original radiator was destroyed and coolant was lost. How long the system was open and what may have been put in it I couldn’t say. Normally this would be under factory warranty but because it is a branded title all warranty is canceled by Ford.

Strangely enough I only discovered a problem when I plugged into a 20A GFIC outlet in preparation for a road-trip and the outlet kept tripping. The way I found it was I opened the ground circuit at my rv where the power cable enters. I placed a meter in series of the ground set to ac volts while turning each breaker on /off to see which circuit was at fault. That was the easy part, isolating exactly where the fault was took a bit of searching.

In fortunate I don’t. The way the front cap is made I wouldn’t be able to get a conduit in the pillar. I was able to replace the wire and wrap it in a protective tape that prevents chafing. Hopefully I’ll not have to deal with this again.

What engine are you dealing with?

I would like to know what engine you have?

I did not hone the caliper bore. It was absolutely perfect inside.

Once this is repaired this won’t happen again. The block replacement will only take two days to complete. The problem is some critical parts are on backorder.

I think you may be referring to the 1.5 L. I replaced over 400 of the 1.5 L blocks. I have not replaced any blocks on the 2 L those were getting complete engine assembly.

@@larryreno8293 Just turned on the comp and seen a comment, thanks, Yes you are right about the 2.0 getting a complete block, I just didn't mention it, only the one revision on the block between the cylinders as a general statement. This is a good video of the Ford mechanic on that revision ruclips.net/video/_8nQ1NZW_GI/видео.html Thanks for your reply 👍

Do you have a part number for the metal pistons?

I could smell the brakes getting hot and I was getting severe pulsation when breaking. Also, my ABS light came on because it got so hot the wheel speed sensor melted.

Once I got that bolt out, everything was easy to replace

I do have the part number it’s a 2605824c91. Beware of the early part number that starts with 25……91 these are the old stock parts that are swelling when hot.