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No problem. If my videos help, they're worth the time and effort.

I take no responsibility for anyone attempting to follow what I did. I'm merely answering the question with the steps I took. i replaced the Original Equipment Generac Trickle Charger using the same connection points it used. Not inventing anything new. ALL OF THIS AREA IS HOT and if you're not qualified to perform the work you should hire a professional. He should be able to remove all live power in the Transfer Switch. I purchased a Trickle Charger that; stopped the charging automatically once the battery was charged, disconnected itself when it didn't see a battery attached and other safety features I deemed necessary. I placed the generator in OFF. I removed the 7.5A Fuse from the controller. I removed the battery from the generator. I placed the Positive Battery Termnial inside a glove. Yes, the unit was dead but I er on the side of safety - PLUS - I test my work before I place it on line. I remove the fuse where the Generac Trickle Charger was tied in to 120VAC. Inside the Transfer Switch on this Older Model Only. If there's no existing Trickle Charger in the Transfer Switch then this procedure is NOT required. Making sure that both ends are dead. No 120VAC. Remove the Hot Lead going to the trickle charger - not allowing it to make contact with anything. Then I remove the Neutral wire from the Neutral Bar and insure that it doesn't contact anything. I remove the Negative 0VDC Lead in the same manner. Upon removing the Positive 12VDC Lead in the same manner I completely remove that Trickle Charger from the Transfer Switch and place it out of the way. I looked at the plug on my trickle charger to find the neutral. (Typically the larger prong on the plug OR the identified lead - a flat edge or fine ridges but some marking to make it stand out from the hot lead.) Then I cut the plug off with the wire long enough to reach the neutral bar of the panel. (Usually further than the Hot Lead needs to go.) Then I do a small snip between the two leads of the Zip Wire and pull the two leads apart slowly/carefully- insuring that no bare wire is exposed from any loss of insulation. It pulls apart easily which is why they call it Zip Wire. Then I land that identified neutral lead on the panel neutral bar. The Hot lead I cut to size to reach the screw at the fuse where I removed the old Generac Trickle Charger from. (With the old Trickle Charger removed there should be NO other wire at that end of the fuse.) Strip a little insulation off and crimp on a solderless connector Fork. Then I place it under the screw and tighten the screw down. Do Not Install The Fuse Yet. I take the Negative 0 VDC lead and make it long enough to reach the Negative connection point and cut it to length. I strip off a little insulation and crimp on a Solderless Connector Fork and land that wire on the Negative Terminal Connection. Finally I cut the Positive 12VDC Lead and make it long enough to reach the Positive connection point. I cut it to length before stripping off a little insulation and crimping on a Solderless Connector Fork. Then I land that Positive lead on the Positive Connection Point. I reinsert the Fuse and look everything over before restoring power to the Transfer Switch. I use my multimeter to test the Positive and Negative terminals of the 12VDC. If you don't read anything then the Trickle Charger has disconnected itself. I move my multimeter to the Generator and drop the Battery Leads on the battery posts and test again to insure that the Polarity is correct. Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative. Finally, I reinstall the 7.5A Fuse in the controller and insure that no problems exist. The battery will still need to charge but the controller should come back to life. That's how I did it. Safe in case I dropped anything or moved wrong. Equipment safe from improperly installing the Trickle Charger. Yes, it was loud. Makes for a short video when the shop calls for compressors and the like. It's not a complicated fix but I still need to know what I'm doing and all of the hazards that can trip me up. I need to work for the next day. Health and a job done right.

Did anyone tell them the root cause? It has to be a scary event to go through. The equipment manufactured and sold to protect you in the worst weather conditions being a possible threat itself.

The transfer switches make the transfer under load. So the more circuits calling for power, the larger the load, the bigger the spark. Behind that vertical cover of the actual switch are arc chutes to control the spark.

@@snowman6686 oh cool!! Didn’t know!! Thanks for the fast response!

You should record the 10-15 minute replacement of this Xfer coil, I'd be interested in watching that. How much do you or your company charge for this repair? Do you ever have to go back due to degraded collateral damage? I don't have customers and those I try to help are few in numbers. Just started after the ice storm of 1998 when people were without power for months - been playing with them ever since.

@@snowman6686 No chance of a video now because I retired almost 5 years ago. The shortened process was about having just the right length screwdrivers and for that welded plunger, I used duck-billed pliers to spread the coupling without bending it too much. If the screws weren't too tight, I could do the job "hot". (50/50 chance) I stocked those parts in my truck, along with spare hardware, plungers, couplings, end switches, and odd stuff I saved from tear-out jobs. Helps to have a selection of those small blue wires too. Company charges were out of my direct control, other than saving another travel fee. Billing was a 1 hour minimum. Typical night / after-hours calls were at time and a half anyway. Not sure I ever beat 10 minutes, because diagnosis and gathering what you need easily takes 10 minutes. Let's just call it 15 minutes after that for the test of the repair, then a few more to button things up. BTW, one thing I learned doing emergency repair is ALWAYS do a quick check of the gen itself, which may save another trip. IOW, check fluids, belts, hoses, and fuel before flipping the switch to automatic. Also, double check those little fuses in the TS. A power surge can blow them. (one is for the battery charging) Edit: as for other damage, never had an issue with what *I* repaired because I tested afterwards. I also had a small speech for the customer about damage to items within the home, like digital readouts, answering machines, and stuff that doesn't like power surges. After all, it might be a few days before they use everything and notice something else isn't right.

That happens, even to me. I've even run into the video lagging the voice. I can return and find everything working well

@@snowman6686 Try watching the video, the sound cuts in and out :) Anyways my underspeed error code was because one of the stator mounts broke off the engine block somehow. I replaced the stepper motor, then found out no spark from one of the spark plugs. Had to have an aluminum welder come out and tack it back on, back in business now. Thanks by the way, although I couldn't hear your (Can't hear you still) this video helped a lot.

I did have a cell phone that faded in and out like this but I replaced that phone. Now, I can't view the original because I've discarded that phone. Whether or not this was the old phone, I don't know. I can hear it by adjusting the volume on the video itself and using my device volume but it is annoying with the fading in and out. I usually write an explanation beneath the video which may help. (Less painful that the sound.) My apologies.

It's probably your finger over the microphone

Well if it was cleaned up better and treated with some rust prevention it wouldn't be like that

It should be known that when I order a replacement part I use the model numbers of the equipment and the specific location of the part.. With that said I looked at the "Installation Guidelines" which has the schematic for the "Essential Circuits Transfer Switch". (Page 25 in this particular manual.) Drawing 0H6385-A I found it to be C1 on the print with a description in the legend and that was all. I believe I went to Ziller Electric and entered my information for the search to find that it was Part Number C2237 also known as 0C2237,, 0E6154 and MPNG077220. In the video for replacing C1 you can actually see the part number on the top of the part as C2237. I later searched eBay to see if there was a better price. I found a burnt up coil for sale - so beware. I also found a reputable dealer with one up for bid. A fantastic bargain there. It's NOT just a coil. It has a full wave rectifier and varistor enclosed within it. So, just any coil will not do. Installing it is no simple task. The nuts have to be at the extreme end of the screw which places them in a precarious position. Just nervous movement could cause one or both to fall into a spot you may not like. They have to be dropped over the top of a screw slot into a cup which holds the nut. A plastic cup, so don't over tighten. Not a fun task unless you like the game "Operation". Where there's smoke, there is heat. So you need to check any other parts for damage or degradation. Blackened wiring needs to be checked for intact insulation. Periodically checked to insure it remains intact as heat can make it become brittle and possibly fall off. When I repaired that Transfer Switch I made sure to remove ALL power to the transfer side - which is all of the upper half of that particular transfer switch. I also took precautions to protect the lower half and myself. SAFETY FIRST.

No root cause to date. The area is somewhat remote. When it's very few customers it usually has to be called in. When I arrived the power authority had pick up trucks running the dirt road. (And the damage was done.) The neighbors complained that there was a prolonged brown out. One neighbor said that he knew something was wrong so he removed the utility company as a source. (On a Whole House Transfer Switch you would turn the breaker off. On an Essential Circuits Transfer Switch you would shut off the breaker in your panel which feeds the transfer switch. Of course you would have to rely on your neighbors - that don't have a generator - to tell you when utility power has been properly restored.) These neighbors coming into the basement I was working in, curious to see. I was a little busy focusing on the problem in front of me. (Staying safe. Trying to figure out what I had. Getting the job done in a timely manner.) This much smoke and heat means that "what wasn't destroyed was probably degraded / damaged.") It also made me wonder about the Manual Transfer ability. At the same time period that this occurred I had a call that their generator started but wouldn't transfer to generator power. When I checked that generator - the generator power was incorrect. The owner told me that he could manually transfer his switch. I told him that it was good that he didn't manually transfer his switch because the incorrect voltage could damage sensitive equipment in his house. (Like his furnace which probably uses an electronic module and others you don't always think about.) The utility would probably generalize the problem to "equipment failure", but I'll keep an ear out. Hopefully, Generac is looking at a proactive defense.

Has it been fixed? What did you find? When you say that you had the unit replaced are you talking about the whole entire Transfer Switch? If new, it should be covered by warranty. If installed by a contractor - they typically warrant their work for one year. The ones I've worked on use limit switches so that power is placed on the transfer coil for only enough time to complete the transfer. Then it's routed back to the other coil awaiting to transfer. (This is to transfer in either direction; to the generator OR to utility power - whichever way it's waiting to go.) If your generator shut off with the return of utility power then I would have to assume that N1 and N2 are good and telling the generator that the utility power is back. (Generac uses N1 and N2.) I would have the Transfer Switch looked at. There's quite a bit. Wires, limit switches, relay, coils and even linkage.

@@snowman6686 found out it was the utility transfer relay it was stuck , barely tapped it and it works now. Ordered a new one just incase for 29 bucks

Snowman, I just had the same issue today. The upper coil slightly burned, which is preventing the transfer back to utility power... Even with both Utility and Generator Power off, i couldn't move the lever back to utility. It was doing what it is supposed to do until i turned utility back on....Generator Shut down but the lever never switched back to the utility power. Maybe because the Upper Coil (Utility coil) smoldered it got the Plunger stuck? I was thinking of just reordering the Utility Coil@@snowman6686

My upper Coil melted which is preventing the lever to go back to utility power. My plunger is stuck, because i can not manually move the lever up. Thinking of ordering upper coil, which is the utility coil and plunger.@@snowman6686

I don't post my videos as repair instructions - only to show people some of the things that can cause certain problems. I don't know anyones skill set and I know some electricians that wouldn't attempt some of these repairs. I recommend a certified technician. As I take no responsibility for the actions of anyone. Below are steps that I personally follow. I add steps as the job requires when it changes in any manner. My background is in both electronics and electrical construction which changes daily. This too could change. The voltage that powers that lower coil should come from your generator once it powers up. So I would shut off the breaker located on the generator and check the generators output voltage on the line side of that breaker. If your generator voltage is bad then any repairs you make are subject to destruction once again. ( There are limit switches built into the transfer switch itself so you need to verify the root cause of the failure. Was it the generator? ) Then, the voltages inside the panel are indeed very dangerous. With two sources available. You need to make the section you're working in completely clear of any and all voltages as there's very little room to work and very little room for error. If you need the utility power to your house while you work - you need to know how to shut off the utility power while you move it in order to bypass the transfer switch. Eliminating any backfeed to the transfer switch, Then you want to make sure that no dropped parts from the top section can enter the bottom section which will be LIVE if you move the incoming utility feed. I even block any openings from conduits in the bottom of the panel. usually with a rag or two. I take pictures and videos if I don't fully know the wire connections. The coil I removed had two screws holding it in place. The only thing holding the nuts stationary is the plastic framework of the transfer switch and I couldn't see them to tell when they traveled to their limit and were about to fall off - and Generac didn't exactly give any room for error. You don't want to lose the nuts anywhere in that panel. Once free, the coil needs to be gently pulled away from the transfer switch while sliding it off the actuator. There is a difference between the two coils and you need to get the exact replacement for your transfer switch and its use and location in the panel. I purchased my coil on eBay from a certified dealer. No "second time around" used part. I've seen burnt up coils for sale on eBay with "No Returns Accepted" - so there's a need to be vigilant. If you are qualified enough to get the new coil installed correctly and without any mishaps your next steps are to verify your repairs visually and perhaps manually before restoring energy by putting the electrical feeds back to their original location. Once complete you need to verify operation by placing your transfer switch on utility power. Your house/structure/whatever should be powered up by the utility power. Then simulate a power outage by turning off the breaker to your transfer switch. Your generator should start and run. Then transfer your switch to the generator power. The generator should now be providing power to your house/structure/whatever. For Safety: Always wear the proper protective equipment to protect yourself from shock, arc flash and vaporized copper. Your home/structure/occupants/equipment from harm or damage. Understand these steps to know the dangers involved.

Yes, the cable was snapped in two at the bottom of a condulet just before the conduit entered the ground at the transfer switch end. i could only pull back enough to splice all seven conductors. It functions properly but the slack is gone and a 7 conductor cable was snapped in half. Also found the root cause for the "Underspeed 1603" Alarm Code. The wiring to the stepper motor got dislodged from the controller. 'll make a separate video to cover that.

I think so, but I find it hard to believe that a spring would perform any task when run parallel to a rigid control arm. Right now I'm just trying to get the part and spending time on HOLD with Generac. Once I get the part I hoe to know for sure and make a video. I believe the spring acts to prevent overshooting a throttle position and keep the throttle from "hunting". Kind of like a mechanical dead span.. So it should connect to a point where it would slow a fast large move. We'll see.

I believe that if you do a search for "stepper switch" problems or replacement you'll get a better idea of what you're looking for and possibly why.

I just added a video of the spring attached to the stepper motor arm. (not part of the actual stepper motor so ordering a stepper motor won't get you the spring.) On hold with Generac as we speak trying to get the part or even the part number.) I got a service call right after my first reply to this request.

And so it should be. The manual will tell you how to manually transfer the switch using the yellow lever. I've had one transfer switch refuse to transfer to the generator. This was during a power outage when the generator; saw the loss of power, started up but then failed to transfer to generator power. The generator side of the generator failed to generate the proper voltage which is why the transfer switch couldn't transfer. If the owner would have manually transferred to generator power he could have damaged some or all of his sensitive electronics within the house. Furnaces are electronic along with a host of others. Then you have this video. The owner at least saw the smoke and decided not to stick anything into the transfer switch. His neighbor from a few doors down knew something was wrong and shut his generator down before coming down to see what we were doing. Things can go wrong.

They can certainly be that way. I make my posts so that people can get a basic understanding of what's going on. The owners manual explains how to manually move from utility power to generator power and vice versa.. In this case, forcing a manual transfer could result in damaging the mechanical linkage of the manual transfer which could cause further damage to the transfer switch. I've always preferred this switch and have the same one in my basement. This however concerns me.

I think i have a top coil failure this morning. I can manually switch it (for he city power) but nothing flows thru. I am stuck running the generator all weekend or longer til it gets fixed. Any insites?

@@WayneTX254 ... if there's no black marks and you can manually move the switch all the way but there's no power the whole contactor may be no good... but let's not jump the gun just yet. You can try resetting the main breaker just in case that has tripped. (it may be outside) You can also take a look at the meter outside. If the meter is blank, then your power is actually out. If the digital display shows numbers or is flashing, then you likely have power to that point and something else is wrong between the meter and the transfer switch. If I was there, I could probably track the issue within 5 minutes. It's something I did for over 25 years. BTW, you can also call the power company and they will verify things up to the meter.... but inside repairs are between you and your electrician.

@@rupe53 power company said i have power. There are 2 outside breakers, one for a pool and one for a separate garage. They are working with generator off. Everything else- through the xfer switch and into panel box in the garage - is not working from the grid. The solenoid is not switching on its own. If i manually switch it, it only works on generator side. It was all installed by a reputable electrician. I'll be calling them monday morning. Gonna burn up some propane til its fixed.

@@WayneTX254 .... unless you are a real good DIY type I wouldn't dig much deeper into it other than perhaps a test light or test meter to figure out where the power stops. By code there should be a disconnect / breaker BEFORE the transfer switch, which is worth checking. That said, you can shut the gen off while you sleep, and the fridge will keep for 8 hours. During the day you can run 3-4 hour cycles to maintain other things as well, while saving quite a bit of fuel. BTW, if you decide to cycle the gen set, always stop / start with the generator circuit breaker in the off position. This prevents wild voltage swings as it comes up to speed.

@@rupe53 I only spent 12 years on a fire brigade achieving the position of Lieutenant. What do I know?

That I haven't seen. Needing 240V to transfer I'm surprised it even tried. With the Brown Out, it had the path just the wrong voltage. This year I'm seeing a lot.

@@snowman6686 I worked for a utility and if a customer lost a leg the transfer switch would get hot and burn up. You could get strange voltages if the service would burn open in a tree.

@@CaptainCornBurner I'm not saying that you're wrong. This particular transfer switch uses 240V to transfer. One 120V leg being present on one side of the coil. When the coil is commanded to transfer the other 120V leg is provided to the other side of the coil to complete the 240V path. Once that coil performs the transfer and the arm is thrown it hits a limit switch - relay - which disconnects 120V from one side of the coil. You can see the limit switches to the right of the coils. The blue wires attaching to them. The home owners living in the area told me that they suffered a prolonged brown out. I do know some Utility Workers that work in this area. I'll ask them what they found wrong that day. I did witness the Utility Company pickup trucks scurrying around but I was gone before the bucket trucks ever arrived - if they ever did. I still find your information valuable. If not for this particular transfer switch then for another, and I will verify the utility fault. Thank you for contributing.

@@snowman6686 It also depends on the primary side of the customers service, if the primary is Delta and one phase is lost you can experience really high voltage one one side of the customer service buss and low voltage on the other. The contractors in our area were installing the transfer switch inside the home next to the panel, and when they would fail it would fill the home with smoke. The brown out you are referring to may be on a Delta primary feed.Brown outs can cause a lot of damage, modern equipment does not like high voltage or low voltage.

This is a single split phase piece of service equipment for residential use. I'm not worried about commercial or industrial applications at this point.@@CaptainCornBurner

I haven't installed any of the new 18KW generators. I do use the manuals and the product guides to view fuel consumption but I try to keep the generator purchase affordable. I talk to the owner about how much power they need to get through a power outage - not necessarily powering their home as if the utility power was still on. Especially on Propane where their; heat, hot water and cooking may share the same fuel. The cost of that fuel, the dependability of their supplier - especially in adverse conditions and their tank capacity. ( The LP fuel suppliers "use to" give you the tanks for free but now charge for them. ) Affordability is best in the 8-11KW range where fuel consumption is more tolerable, I believe the largest generator I've installed, for residential, is a 14KW.. I would say that although the required pressures have come down over the years and the exercise cycles use less fuel - your daily consumption is far lower than I would expect.. I would expect that an 18KW, at full load, would consume 3 gallons of LP fuel per hour. I wish it were per day..

It's not the video. RUclips playback is sometimes lackluster in performance. My 8kw oil change video sometimes has the video track leading the voice track which is really upsetting. I do try to write an explanation of the video directly below in the event it's needed. I use RUclips myself so I understand but I don't post for; money, a following or advertisement - just as an aid to those who are interested.

I have heard some stories. The newer models are supposed to be much better but you would certainly hope so.

@@snowman6686 ... as a 25 year service tech on these things I can safely say the fuel consumption has hardly changed over the years. You had another problem.... probably a leak.

@@rupe53 I'm just an electrician who's been installing standby generators since the ice storm of 98. The stories I was talking about were on Generac's that allowed the fuel to pass through the bellows even after the generator shut down. NOT having witnessed it myself I only say "I've heard stories". I look for a regulator mounted at the generator. The Owners Manual - Table of Contents has always listed "Fuel Consumption" and the table for fuel consumption lists the fuel consumption for all of the Residential Standby Generators at both 1/2 and Full Load. per hour. I use this 411 to help in making decisions on which size generator to buy. (What do you really need to get through a power outage? How much fuel will it take per hour? How long will your fuel last? How dependable is your fuel supplier at getting to you for a refill when the power is out?) Power outages aren't friendly - waiting for your tank to be topped off before an outage. So exercise cycles are important especially if they are on a stand alone tank and you haven't experienced an outage in years. My videos aren't instructions on "How To", they merely show what may be involved in causing the failure. Maybe just "good to know" information. I started these videos after seeing $600 stepper switch replacement which didn't fix unit. $400 starter motor replacement. and the like. Anyway. I do what I can. You could too with your experience.

These essential circuit remote transfer switches are 100 Amp panels. They are used on multiple sizes of Generac generators as long as their current rating is not exceeded. This particular generator is only an 8KW and can only supply 33 Amps at 240 Volt. You want to match the Utility circuit breaker to the breaker in the generator or the generator won't be able to support the circuits in the essential circuits panel. I don't like the generator to run flat out so I install the next size circuit breaker rounded down, or in this case a 30 Amp Double Pole Breaker.. You're looking at the wire gauge. Yes, I used a larger wire gauge to bring in the Utility Power. A #6 rated for much more current. A #10 to bring in the Generator Power. As long as the circuit breaker is manufactured to accept the larger wire size it's copacetic. As it looks like a company name, I'm guessing you knew that. Fair question just the same. I did get sidetracked. I showed how the Utility Power comes in on the top of the Transfer Switch and travels straight through when operating on Utility Power. I wish I had explained that in a Utility Power Loss the transfer switch automatically transfers to the Generator Power which comes in on the bottom and goes right back out on the bottom to the breakers - when operating on generator power. Next time I'll use an Audio Visual Voltage Detector as well. My Amprobe model seems a bit camera shy. Thank you for your question.

Prices vary by package. You should check with; Lowe's, Home Depot, Generac or local suppliers. The stores have .com's and Generac provides a list of dealers in your area. The package may be; Generator only, Generator and a Transfer Switch, Generator, Transfer Switch, Battery and a manufactured Pad. A variety of Transfer Switches. Wasn't notified of any questions. Sorry for the delay.

I only ever use Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W 30. You might notice the containers in the video. For my area it's an all temperature oil that performs for me. I only use the Generac oil filter 070185E which is an industrial oil filter for hydraulic oil. That one oil filter is used on ALL of the Air Cooled Residential Auto Stand-by generators. (That could change in the future. Right now it simplifies support of the products. Like that Group 26R battery.) I typically order the maintenance kits from electricgeneratorsdirect.com

@@snowman6686 thank you! 👍🇺🇸👍

By "Stand-by" I'm guessing you mean "AUTO". In "AUTO" there is no noise at all unless it starts for an exercise cycle OR starts because it senses a power loss. In the exercise mode there is no load on the generator at all because a transfer was not called for, just an exercise. It's a combustion engine so there will be noise BUT it will be quieter than an under load condition. The amount of noise is dependent upon the year the model was made as the newer ones are quieter. The generator has multiple voltages as it gets 240 VAC from the utility power. When it sees the loss of this 240 VAC it knows utility power has been lost. There is also 12 VDC which can come from a trickle charger inside the transfer switch OR built into the controller. You need to be aware of these voltages. If you change out your battery say - removing the battery cables does NOT remove the power on the battery cables - you need to de-energize the trickle charger as well BEFORE attempting the change. So, you can see that the generator DOES NOT need to be running to light the GREEN / YELLOW /RED LED's. I didn't show the Transfer Switch because I didn't have the owners permission to do a video of the inside of their house. I did show the transfer switch I used which is only rated for "INDOORS". I like to install them right beside the existing utility MAIN panel. It's easier for me, cost effective and if the owner does face an issue - everything is right in front of them to view and analyze. (They usually want to revert to the OLD location of a breaker which becomes a spare when the transfer switch is installed.) I use pipe when the distance between the transfer switch and the generator exceed the length of the wiring harness provided. I strive for a professional looking maintenance free installation. There's nothing worse than having an item like this sit idle for years and FAIL when you need it most.

Hi@@snowman6686 .... THANKS so much for all the GREAT info!!! I really appreciate you taking the time and energy to answer my question so thoughtfully and thoroughly! :) Be well and safe.

An "Overload" normally refers to a demand for more power than the generator can provide. On the "Essential Circuits Transfer Switch" you normally avoid this by installing the same size circuit breaker, in your main panel, that you find on your generator. (If you don't trip this breaker on "NORMAL" power then you shouldn't trip your generators breaker on "EMERGENCY" power.) On a "Whole House Transfer Switch" you need to; size your generator correctly, use the "Load Shedding" circuits, refrain from using high power consumption items like electric ranges and such OR manually remove unnecessary loads by shutting off circuits you really don't need. IF you don't feel that there "really" is an overload then you may want to verify your current draw by having an electrician test the current draw. (A faulty CT could trigger the alarm.) You will have to acknowledge the alarm in order to remove the red light and get back to a "Ready To Run" condition with a green LED. The "History" will store these faults, along with fault codes, in the event you require warranty service. In this video I refer to a "You're not going to get any more than you have". That means that you are not going to get any more power than the generator can provide with the type of fuel you use. I normally advise people not to run their generators at 100% load because there are intermittent loads that can appear and force an overload condition. Hope this helps.

Generator choice should not be done based on square footage of a home. It should only be based on power consumption. I ask clients to think about what they feel they would want to be powered up DURING a power outage. Me; Heat to keep my house warm and my pipes from freezing.This also provides my hot water., Sump Pump to keep my cellar from flooding, My Refrigerator and Freezer to keep my food from spoiling, Microwave to cook food if you have an electric range because they consume a great deal of power, Gas stove because they need power for the oven - the burners you can still light with a match. Some lights that I deem necessary, Security system, Living room because I usually get visitors in a long outage, bathroom and bedroom. Now you know how much power you will need. Add 20% so that your generator isn't running "All Out" in a prolonged outage. MOST power consumption is incidental - meaning they don't need power constantly as they turn on and off as a standard. Lastly I tell clients the required fuel consumption at partial demand and running all out. This is just so they are aware and don't think I was hiding the cost. The exercise cycle is barely noticeable and can be adjusted from weekly to monthly. I like a twin cylinder generator. I explain it as "a single cylinder engine powers the piston down and it "coasts" back up BUT a twin cylinder engine is powered throughout the revolution. So if you have anything that requires a strong surge of power to start - like an air conditioner - you'll want the power a twin cylinder provides. Yes, my explanations are as long as my videos, I hope to get better. It's not the size of your home, it's your electrical needs when the normal power is gone.

@@snowman6686 That is an excellent comment, completely full of truths and logic, you got me sold!