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@@brandonhaynes9120 Hello. So there is going to be a few points to this answer. I really hope you appreciate the time and effort in answering this in the way I do, and I hope I am really able to help you. The overheating does not seem to be an issue. I have regularly flown in temps up to and above 100/105f. The air temperature has been between 88-95°f the last two weeks. I generally run for half hour, or every 4-6 packs then give it a break. It heats up pretty much the same and gets to the same temperature as if it was not waterproof. Works the same, nothing noticeable. I sometimes switch to another qwad for a while or just give it 10mins before going again. I suppose it depends how you fly but I regularly put 6 batteries through it fairly quick and am certainly not a gentle flyer. I do some racing and a lot of freestyle. I have not had any issues at all in the 18months since waterproofing. Now the more complicated part of the answer. When we waterproof a kwad we do not waterproof the batteries or the motors. As a rule, batteries and motors are fine when exposed to water as is. Your problem is not so much the sand, but the salt. If a motor gets sand in it you can just wash with fresh pure water and rinse the sand out, or worse case disassemble the motor to clean the inside. The waterproofing will fully protect the electronics from the sand and salt if fully covered and no wire exposed. This can simply be rinsed off with water if needed. On the other hand, The salt will start to corrode the motor windings and battery terminals. There is not really a lot that is safe and recommended to try protect the battery and the motors. So I guess it comes down to how you plan to use it. I would definitely recommend waterproofing the electronics as it makes cleaning sand as easy as pouring water over it. If your motors get sand inside they can be rinsed with water and cleaned or striped and cleaned. As a rule the salt is what is going to kill the drone, and via the motors or battery. If beach flying I make sure I have some water in a bottle to rinse things immediately if needed. Try to avoid the salt water at all costs, but if the unthinkable happens, immediately rinse as much as possible with fresh water. Once done you can switch your drone to turtle mode (right way up tho) and spin the remaining water from the motors with ease. Keep an eye on your battery connector as corrosion will start there and work it's way up the wire to the ESC. Any sign of it, change your power wire immediately. I wanted to try give you the best explanation of what is going on and give you enough information so you can make up your own mind. I think I've covered everything but let me know if not. Really hope this helps people. I would not fly in dirty, dusty or sandy conditions without waterproofing again. No more mess or anything to mess with the electronics. They can't short out, they sealed in.

@@TheDroneWarrior I very much appreciate your response thank you!

That is as fast as the balancer spins. The load cell can weigh the wheel and work out if weight is needed from just a few spins at that speed

@@TheDroneWarrior i have this balancer but in my eyes it works not as it should.

@@edijzerman5880I just got mine, and I like it a lot. After the process, my tires could run much longer unloading. I will take these balanced tires to the track asap to verify the final result.

Yes it will. Just check the pin layout

@@TheDroneWarrior worked like a charm. Thanks for the reply

Don't be that guy. There are ribs on both sides of the belt as it goes over some pulleys and under some others. It is installed 100% correctly. I'm assuming you are an amateur mechanic or you would have known that.( Sorry mate!)

It will. Because Grand Turismo is a Simulator and race cars are super sensitive so it response to every bump in the road it really never stops when driving. 😮🤓😁

The sticky pad/battery pad is available at all drone suppliers. All different makes and normally comes in a large rubber like pad, that you cut to size. The special material grips to the battery like a cross between velcro and chewing gum while still being able to easily remove the battery. But always still use straps!

Nie, przepraszam, jestem Anglikiem. Dlaczego pytasz?

@@TheDroneWarrior na początku filmu powiedziałeś "koromyslo" i tak mi się skojarzyło.

@@adrianfijakowski9599 Czasami zapominam i zmieniam język lub używam słów z różnych krajów. Co dokładnie oznacza koromyslo, więc wiem.

Fuck no shit dont work

No the electric ones do though

@@rosieclark3661 boy what

Couldn't agree more. This stand/fan is useless. Proper maintenance is the best way to keep your PlayStation cool and working at its best.

@@TheDroneWarrior yes the back mounted fans are exhaust so no air going inside the bottom fans can't get air in the bottom plastic and the vertical stand with fans can get air in but still useless

Generally the proper ones cost between $7-$10. The fake ones sometimes cost as much or more, but usually are slightly cheaper.

I have noticed due to demand and small supplies of the proper one, prices are on the increase and may cost between $20-$50

Don't even bother as real or NOt would not make any difference.

Don't even bother as real or NOt would not make any difference.

@@jmdds lol ur on everyones ass

Don't even bother as real or NOt would not make any difference.

Don't even bother as real or NOt would not make any difference.

@@jmddslet them fuck yup their cars lol

I agree they can be a little noisy. That's why you have to stick them down well. I don't know what rumble buttons/cell you have used, but the ones I use work really well. The vibration is quite strong but ultimately depends on the game. The cell should be inside the trigger for full effect.

I'm going to put them inside some old nes controllers and give them some much needed oomf!

Exactly how I've done it.

Yup. Didn't want to have to worry about anything. The usb on the FC needs to be sealed and I have heard that the air unit usb will corrode if powered on and open to water. Check the next video to see the first of the waterproof testing.

It's really easy. If you install LED brake/tail lights and that glow bothers you or causes an error, it needs a resistor. This can also be installed in the same way using the test pin method. Just put it between the correct live and earth as in the method in the video. I do not know off hand which is the brake/tail light test pin. Easy to trace and find, test with a meter.

Also, it's normally the indicators that cause random check engine light issue, not the brakes

@@TheDroneWarrior : many thanks. I've managed to find a photo of the front and back of the Bora bulbholder, so hopefully just a matter of tracing the contacts....

@@TheDroneWarrior : just an update to thank you again. I have connected a 50w 10 Ohm resistor between the "BR" and "31" pins on both of the Bora's tail bulbholders. Can confirm that this seems to do the trick, eliminating the glow plug warning and the "Engine Workshop" message on the instrument display! Remarkable! 👍

@@smhorse Glad I could help.

Depends how you use it. If used pre air filter It would be fine if something were to happen. Also that is the whole point of this video. There are loads and loads of knock offs that can be hard to spot. The proper genuine one works as described and has no issues. It is properly balanced and spins really easily and smoothly. I have used a genuine one for over 5 years with no problems and I do get it spinning fast!

Yeh I waterproofed everything myself. Check the waterproofing video in the link. Simple enough. Flying in the rain is fine. If you can fly well then there is no issues. Mainly doing manoeuvres to get the water off the lens. Will be flying into and back out of a lake soon (if this stuff works. Lol)

Hey did you coat your o3 or not ?

Coloured alloy prop nuts are widely available. EBay is great.