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very clever. thanks

Great video!

Gotta say, your solution is so elegant and simple. Thank you for sharing, truly.

When making smaller diameter hole if one has problems with proposed method, it might be interesting slight modification as follows. Instead of one guide box I make two such boxes. I drill these boxes as one larger box on drill press (that has to be on drill press) and then cut it on two halves. Now you got two guide blocks, one put in front as shown in video, the other put next to workpiece. The reason for that is better precision needed for smaller hole diameters. However I would use 4 millimeters drill or larger. You can drill guide box with 1mm larger drill for easier drill passage and for better feeling of direction. Also in that modification one has no need for grinding the tip of drill, you can use normal brad point drill as usual.

Thank you for this, I was trying to drill a straight hole in the end of a 2x2 and not having much luck making my own jig. This was super easy to set up and I was able to get it perfectly straight and clean.

GEEEEEEEEEIOUS !!!!

This tip will help me in my wood turning.

i did this 18" in from 1 side 18" from other and hit within 1/8"

Hello, I have 2 questions for your, if you are si kind to answer me: 1) is it a Wood Installer Bit or it’s rather a Construction Installer Bit? In construction you could find steel bars into concrete. 2) Do you think those bits and method could be used on high density hard wood blocks such us Granadillo, Rosewood, Cocobolo wood for a 40 to 50 cm long straight hole? Thank you very much. Your video is very useful to me.

I made a3" x 18" long cherry rolling pin by plowing a grove in two pieces and gluing them together. It worked, but your way is much better. Thanks for the demonstration and especially the explanation!

Good and short. Thank you. Nice drill bit customization..make your own tool.

Thanks for the informative video. So, why you need to change the shape of the bit end.....

Great idea ...Thanks for sharing

Thanks! This is very helpful. The guide block was the missing piece in my contemplations on how to do this.

I like it sir!

Awesome video! Thanks 😊👍

Thanks! That was super helpful.

thanks for the video, I need to insert a 1" galvanized pipe inside a fence post. can you share some idea on suitable bit, thanks

nice

Last commentor same...FINALLY! I've been thinking and searching and watching more than a dozen videos for this solution and here it is...as simple as can be, and more effective than I thought I'd get. Brilliant!!!!!!

You are one clever guy. Thanks for the best tip I've found for doing this.

Thank you so much. I had seen other methods, really good ones I admit, but more involved, more parts constructed to achieve the same job. This keeps it nice and simple.

Brilliant, thanks for sharing!

Brilliant. 🤔 That first 1/2 inch or so you drilled with the spade bit is your second guide bearing. I love this. 🙏🙏🙏☕️🎩🎩🎩✊

Genius

A video that shows actually drilling a long hole with a drill, instead of making grooves with a router and then glueing together. This is what I needed, because for my requirement, I can't cut the board and glue it back.

Awesome! Need this technique for drilling into bedposts to add canopy. Now I can stop thinking about it and actually get it done!!! Thankyou very much sir.

Perfect. Great video. Thanks.

simple/genius, thank you.

Thanks for the video, some good ideas there, but I would have liked to see you drill all the way through and see where the bit came out.

Hi Al. I have an old "school table" restoration project underway that is going to use barrel nuts and bolts to secure cross braces to the table legs. It will require the drilling of 5 +/- inch long holes in the end grain of the brace and I wasn't sure how to go about doing it. You video was the 1st one to come up when I searched the subject. What a great and simple idea to accomplish the mission. Thank you so much for sharing your time and expertise. 🙂

This is very helpful

Brilliant! Thanks!

Ingenious, really. Thank you

One word: AMAZING!

What size PVC did you use for your seal?

Thank you, you just saved my life, Blessings

Yeah, this is the perfect, doable, verifiable and straight solution. 👏👏👏👏

brilliant !! cudos to you for solving my biggest problem....

Great, thanks. Very helpful and good to know!

can someone explain to me how to drill a 4mm hole in a wooden stick that is 1cm in diameter and 10cm long 

Hi Al, I found your video extremely useful. For years I have been toying with idea of drilling, burning with a laser, or some other way to bore through the center heartwood of a large green Douglas Fir log in order to relieve the stress and checking of the outer sapwood when it dries. After I get a hole through the center of the log, I will attempt to use a sawblade or other method to saw radial kerfs up into the heartwood to let the log contract naturally, and hopefully smoothly, as it dries. This is an experiment that I have not yet tried, but I've been researching methods like you show here to attack this problem. I really like your technique of redesigning the end of the bit to avoid its digging into the grain as it bores forward. That is something I had not thought of. My latest sketch uses a set of guides, like your small wood block(except made of steel and anchored in a rigid medium, like concrete) to hold my 'drill string' as I call it. I plan to mount the bit into a long rigid steel pipe that can be aligned perfectly with the pith of the log and kept that way. My new trick that I came up with recently is to have the outside diameter of the steel support sleeve be the same diameter as the bit at its boring end. In this way I can bore a short way into the log, remove the drill string and bit to clear the shavings, then re-insert the drill string and continue boring deep into the log. By making the sleeve the size of the bit, it will be held rigid by the hole in the log that is the same diameter as the sleeve. It will also be held rigid by the guide anchors on the anterior end of the device. What you demonstrated in the video is exactly the procedure that I came up with for my experiment....just on a smaller scale. If my trick is successful, I believe it will be of great utility to timber framers who wish to eliminate unsightly cracks/checks in their visible posts and beams. Most of them will tell you to 'just learn to love those cracks because they don't decrease the functionality of the wood', but I still want my timbers to look like they came out of grandpa's homestead cabin with not a blemish on them! --John in the great northwest USA

03:50 I would have started to drill with the extra guide block close to the workpiece first and then gradually withdraw it.

That's a smart solution to an often difficult task. Thanks for sharing!

I like this idea. I believe the tip may still wander even if a small amount using this method. To be even more exact, one could place a second guide block against the 4x4, possibly may need to screw it into end of 4x4 to keep it from moving or somehow clamp or screw to table top.

Great video, thanks!!!

This is very unique tip. Thank you.

Terrific video! I subscribe immediately. I need to downsize your setup and drill into 1/2 inch square dowels that are 12 inches long. This stumbling block has turned my grandson’s Xmas present into a New Years Day present. Or even Valentines Day at the rate I’m going.

This morning I needed to drill a deep hole in a 4x4, but had no idea how to do it. Now I do, and I can get on with my project. Thank you.

Great solution would have liked to see the finished results to see if it's really working but it makes sense for dure, I need to do almost exactly this kind of hole so tested a manual approach that was ok over 30cm but need twice that and then it risks to cut on the side causing huge error that is a nightmare to fix