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@@ruthpallek5202 I doubt it would cut glass. Copper yes, but not maybe useful for the enamel. But I honestly don’t know.

@@angie_from_arizona thanks! At the moment using the emboss function can readily go 0.5 mm deep. But paradoxically cutting is harder to do currently. I did a video about cutting titanium. I am awaiting a wobble function in cut. The kerf is so tiny that most metals remelt and it can be hard to cut cleanly. But generally going faster with 8000 repeats is best.

@@final_animal thanks! Thin metal is tougher to roll and often needs a backing like paper or foam to push it into the design. That said, you can generally roll strips about 2-3 inches wide and 6-8 inches long on a filled out pattern plate. Making your own that large will be a challenge, doable but not easy. I would check out Potter USA they have a great selection of pattern plates full size.

@@compency thanks!

Thank you 😊

Beautiful work , my favourite is the copper one

@@rachelbradshaw778 thank you so much!

Beautiful work as always Jack! I'm amazed that you can use the laser to score the metal. I was told that it couldn't be done.

@@KimberH1701 thank you! The fiber laser can do ok, about 0.25-0.5 mm

@@amburrosedesigns9752 thanks!

@@blacksmith7996 sure. But this is a way to make a pattern plate. You could directly laser engrave or etch the silver, takes about 2 hours each one. After making a plate you can make an impression in about 2 minutes.

@@marknelson7451 thanks. Mild steel, not hardened. Off cuts from eBay

@@Jalvi_au thanks. I can get 0.5 mm with the emboss function, maybe a bit more. The settings in the software still aren’t optimized for engrave and cut but pretty good.

@@jackjellies9854 Thanks mate, subscribed and I look forward to you other laser Adventures!

@@SCOTTNGA you bet, thanks! I can’t post links and xtool may be working on posting links in their channel.

@@marknelson7451 amazon

Sorry to bother you, can you provide a link?

Thanks in advance

@@marknelson7451 ruclips.net/video/nswn5rrD1H8/видео.htmlsi=uIWGujCgkU6TKDxf. There are several providers. Just google smartvise.

@@donkeyholmes4581 thank you

@@jackiedavies3751 👍 glad you liked it. Thank you.

@@bitwhiskers6969 thanks for asking. Not particularly. When I engrave by hand I rarely can recover much in the way of chips either. But, it does vaporize the metal and it will lighten it a bit. I may do a before and after weight comparison for interest. But for most of my designs, I sense the losses are close to being in the noise.. for deep designs or cutting the losses might be significant

I see how deep the engraving is. If you did try, do you think you could cut it out fully given enough passes? I have already seen your Titanium cut out video. Very informative. Would annealing the silver help? What about Argentium vs Fine silver? Do you think it would make a difference in engraving or cutting? I am also wondering about precious metal clays that have been dried enough to carve before firing.

@@hooksntoggles cutting is a bit different. Right now it is easier to get depth using the emboss function since it allows for an axis rotation after each pass. To cut effectively we really need to have a wobble in the laser path so that the kerf can be a little larger and eject metal. I’ve not found a difference between annealed and hard for silver. Can’t speak to Argentium since I don’t use it but it may do just fine. It has a harder time with fine silver though. It will work, but the addition of copper to alloy it makes it easier to laser engrave. Also don’t know about the unfixed but dried silver clay. But that might be an interesting application.

@@jackjellies9854 Thank you for answering my questions. I am but a novice. I only know enough to be dangerous with a torch.

@@LindaCarmichael-v2p thank you!

@@mariannejennings4671 yes it is

@@kittyhurt8216 thanks!

@@debbieparent3158 👍🙏

@@kaymazzella6728 👍

Thanks for sharing 👌

@@tabasdezh 👍🙏

Those flame burs are available from Rio Grande - I ordered some about a month ago.

👍

Certainly. Scroll just a bit in my videos and look for “smart pin”. In a bit I can find the link

Yes, domed and counter enameled

@@jackjellies9854 thank you Jack. 👍🏼

Thank you.

You can dap or use a bender. The small press is ideal for this but they also make nylon bending pliers. I show what works if you have nothing else.

My pleasure! Hope you enjoy creating goodies.

Thank you!

The chemical process is not necessary, but much more repeatable and easy. All you need is some amount of “tooth” on the glass. Sanding with diamond or silicon carbide should work fine IF you can get an even surface. I had some success also by painting the surface with a light coat of white watercolor. When it dries it will accept the graphite if you are careful.

This was heavy enough to handle the differential stress of expansion without cracking. Since the glass and metal have different coefficients of expansion it is safer to dome the metal so that as one side pulls the other side pushes and the forces equalize. This is what many enameled pieces are domed.

Thank you so much!

It can be hard on it but typically if done well to begin with you can refire a few times.

Kiln firings can be a bit of a hassle, all our trivets have bits of glasses on them…

Thanks tons. Glad you enjoyed it

Yes, it can be tricky. Overfiring is a very real issue.