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You don't understand camshafts at all. Duration moves the power band up in the RPM range, while lobe separation angle shifts the powerband from the low end to the top end. Wider LSA = better low end torque, sacrificing peak power. Narrow LSA = better peak power, sacrificing low end torque.

You mean the grease? No, grease is not something to worry about

I didn't notice any imperfections, maybe it's a reflection? Quality seems fine, truck is running great and very fast with s475 turbo.

@@guidosgarage1176looks like on the far right the lobe has some “dents” Either way good buy! Certainly saved some coin

Had to rewatch the video. I see what your talking about now. That's actually assembly lube, specifically the Lucas brand. The reflection does look like dents kinda though. Good eye!

Mine came in the other day on inspection it looks mint I might order the the low buck plus just because

I have been told it can get a little smoother but it will never have a stock like idle.

You can tune out the chop entirely, but it will still lope a little.

I appreciate all your videos, learned a lot from yall

Or... Just take it off ffs

@Mmouse_ for a vehicle where its easy sure, ls is easy to work on. But for a lot of rigs you have to pull the engine to drop the pan. In which case I'm drilling it on the truck 100%. Those shaving will NEVER do any harm. If by some miracle they make it up into the oil pickup and through the screen, the oil filter will catch them. It's like that's why they put it there or something........

Some pans require you to drop the crossmember, remove axles, and needing a re-alignment if the rack is disturbed.

@Cragified like I said, not hard to get to 🤣

That is a lot just for a pan. I have a Chrysler and both pans can be dropped without doing any of that. My transmission went 195k n the only thing that went out is a solenoid pack. gM is 🗑️​@@Dpom3r

Some are one time use pans. Imagine that.

Did you decide to run them? A guy locally to me is running them in his nitrous motor street setup, we used the same machine shop for balancing and they told him they will be fine as long as he isn’t spinning really high rpm’s all the time like on a race motor.

Apparently I didn't either at the time lol

Yea I'm testing that theory, so far it's running fine. Haven't hit it with boost yet though, have an s475 sitting here waiting on my to build the piping. I have spent a lot of time bouncing it off the rev limiter though and no sign of head gasket issues

Why not? Engine is running fine and making great power. Have you had a bad experience doing it this way?

Nope

What other tool would you use to open up the ports with?

I don't think I can get my tig torch down in there. Would be neat to see someone tig that up though, I'm sure with a special torch or alot of skill you could get down in there.

Good tip, I will try that. I cant remember what oil I put in mine but I replaced the pump on it recently

@guidosgarage1176 When we gave it to a friend to use for his CNC machine that cut CV Axles. That compressor ran 18 hours a day and never shut off. He had the same compressor with conventional oil and it would get hot and throw the breaker. Not sponsored by Amsoil!!! ROFLMFAO!!! Just passing experience along that may help some one else. When my brother said he was going to change the oil to that. I said yea what ever. Oil is oil. I was young and dumb I guess lol. He used to run Amsoil in his 2 stroke mopeds back in the 80s. I remember when a salesmen was walking down the street and sold him some 2 stroke oil for the mopeds. Lol. Wow that was a long time ago.

@guidosgarage1176 Sorry it was Amsoil air compressor oil. I'm sure you figured that out. Just checking bases off lol.

Yea, I think a lot of people confuse scotch-lok or roloc disc with scotch Brite. This is a soft scuff pad like scotch bright, not the harder roloc material that gouges the metal. I wouldn't recommend using a roloc on the head surface.

There is a s475 sitting here waiting on it to get done

I was just gonna comment that hahaha.

Yea, I am beginning to think the same thing. Would have made a nice 400

This time, unfortunately 😆

@@guidosgarage1176 been there

One perfect for 500 shot

It comes out to be about 7.25:1 compression.

No, they don’t get anywhere near close enough to the deck. This engine probably wouldn’t have enough compression to start

Ends up being about 7.25:1

Going right back on the engine

Why do you ask ?

Was very late, long day and having trouble processing thoughts.

@@guidosgarage1176 I’m going to share some secret Army teaching here. Um is visible evidence of not knowing what you are saying or talking about. It shows you put no forethought into it and really pisses off people who had to learn to speak without ums. I really do mean this for your benefit. Let me know when you make a video without the ums and I’ll try to watch it for ya

@@gb123-ej8wh its because he truly is unsure if this is actually a quick and safe method. when you can do all the prep work you need with a carbide scraper or a razor blade. even scotch pads can wear a couple thousandths out of an aluminum head. its needs to be perfectly flat if you want it to last.

Yea and 35 psi starting at idle 😂.

​@@guidosgarage1176 If you're supposed to have 300 pounds cranking compression,just give it that much boost🤷‍♂️😁

Waiting on the rotating assembly to get back from the machine shop before I can finish assembly

I thought about that, would love to see one of his big bang test on these

Good oem replacement if you have worn ones.

4 of the stock rods had spun bearings, technically it would have been cheaper to have them fixed. Our machine shop charges $13 per rod, but I'm hoping these are a bit stronger than stock gen3 LS rods

No, I think it happened from towing it. The owner ran up on gravel and locked up the jet, then towed it about 1.5 miles across the lake. I took the jet apart and cleaned it out but the engine locked up immediately when I tried to crank it. Took the plugs out, got the water out and it ran fine