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The turn signals are part of the grill. But I am not 100% sure if you need to take the grill off. Sorry

@gpadrov2 oh crap. One is broken. I'll look into it. Hope I dont have to take off the grill.

@gpadrov2 it was super easy.. remove top 2 screws to get off bracket then there are 2 screws in the light all phillips.

Yes, mustangs from that era are designed to accept 289 engines. 289 & 302 are the same size plus they both have the exact same engine mounts.

You can also fit with no problems a 351 Windsor but not a Cleveland

google search C4 vacuum modulator pin & eBay has a bunch. I have a 3 speed transmission called C4. if you have a 4 speed transmission find out what the name of your transmission.

according to google the backing plate part numbers are qu20712u & qu20713u.

@gpadrov2 I want to buy it but I can't find online market to buy it

@@Z7mat7ke junkyards are the best place to find those. There aren’t many sources that will sell those new. Disk brakes are what new vehicles have and backing plates are no longer popular.

My 39 year old connection was not coming undone & stripping at both connections with a flare nut wrench.

@@gpadrov2 So what did you use? Water pump pliers?

I used a plumbers wrench. it is a tool that is extremely effective with stripped bolts.

Oreilly, but you have to specify what model you have. Mine was a wagon & that makes a difference.

4v heads 289 or 302 does not mean 4 valves if thats what your implying. They are not any better than most ford heads. 4v four barrel

At 3:25 I install a wheel seal, that wheel seal keeps gear oil out.

@@gpadrov2 If it is a full floating axel, and it looks like it is, gear oil from the differential flows through the axel tube into the hub to lubricate the wheel bearings. Oil is prevented from escaping the hub by the inner oil seal on one end and the axle flange gasket on the other. As you can see in the video, the inner seal keeps oil from contaminating the brake linings. Some use an assembly grease or lubricant for initial bearing installation and the grease is later dissolved into the oil. But it is not mandatory to pre-lube the bearings with grease. However, you are correct in the method of repacking a wheel bearing that requires bearing grease. Just apply a liberal amount of gear oil to the bearings and assemble. Upon completion, jack up one side of the truck at the rear and then the other to let oil flow through the axel tube to the wheel hub. Lower the truck and let everything settle and check the differential fluid level. Add gear oil as necessary. Judging by the video that no oil came out upon removal of the axel and your bearings looked a bit dry, your differential fluid level may be low.

The early heads used *18mm sparkplugs, not 17. '75 on 302 & 351W both used 14mm.

@@foxfordcatguy2283 yah thats it the 18 mil,ive got my 67 289 runnin like it should,better then what it was in the past.thanks for the heads up happy and safe holidays.

👍 check engine light has been off for numerous days.

I would spray wd40 betweeen the transmission and the cv axle 4 times a day for 3 days and try again afterwards. It is gear to gear. Afterards a truck pull is sensible in my opinion.

@@gpadrov2 if it comes to a truck pull I'll be sure to film it lol. I might try lubing the hell outta it for a few days but honestly it's a beater car and only makes me money when it's running so I might just Frankenstein it. I'll try to post back with details whatever the case.

@@gpadrov2 my engineer buddy just showed up with a pickle fork and about 5 whacks with a mallet later and it's popped out. We pried for 5 hours the other day. Color me impressed :D

Slight correction... 351w came in 2 deck heights, the 9.2" and the 9.5"

@JohnPaul-qh5ys Sorry, I was just estimating. You are very correct. Why did Ford do that?

@JimsFastbackGarage your guess is as good as mine. Since the change came around the same time as the lower compression, lower horsepower engines I'd guess that it has something to do with the ability to make low compression and/ or rod angle and reliability.

Don't even try... I get where your heart is but the guy here knows almost nothing about what he's talking about.. omg... he's wrong about everything he just said.

351w came in 9.48 deck in 1969 and was later bumped to 9.5. The 351c had a 9.2 deck... completely different engine.

Thank you, I did forget to mention that the 351 head bolts are larger then the other 2.

Depending upon the year of the block, I'd agree, but as you can see from his video, the 289 and 302 heads are really heads, and the 351w head is a newer head. Why does that matter? They changed they water and oil port locations and designs. This change was made in the 70's.

@@JohnPaul-qh5ys Oil port? The valve train is lubed through the push rods and drains into the valley through holes in the head. Water inlet? Water from the pump enters the block via the timing cover and exits via the (front) ports in the head though the intake on all Windsor based engines. I'm sure that there were tweaks in design but all 'W' heads are for all intent interchangeable with a bit of machine work.

@jdwht2455 yes, with machine work is correct. Go to the parts store and have them pull head gaskets for a 69 Windsor and another for a 90 Windsor. You'll find that your oil and water ports don't line up. I made the mistake of thinking they were the same when I was a teenager and blew up a "healthy" 5.0 because of it. They also changed the oil pan mating surface by about ⅛" meaning the early Windsor timing cover is a bit short of properly fitting the newer blocks and the newer timing cover is a bit too tall for the older blocks. This isn't a big deal until you need a specific timing cover for your project like I did when I learned about the change

They are not "identical." They have the same basic layout - as any heads for the same engine would have to. The early heads had tiny ports & were thinner/lighter castings. Later heads had restrictive thermactor bumps in the exhaust ports, internal air injection, etc., etc.

Yes sir, you can hear my mustang running in my vacuum modulator video.

I just wanted to re-grease the wheel bearings after doing the brake shoes. Thank you for the nice comment.

I like potatoes. thanks

cry more

I always replace the cap/rotor, spark plug wires and plugs in all my older vehicles as routine maintenance(newer vehicles don't have distributors or spark plug wires). as long as your timing belt has not been messed with(engine out of timing), if you replace those maintenance items your misfire should go away. thanks for reaching out, please subscribe.

👍 de nada

Why? He obviously doesn't know what he is talking about. Cylinder head has nothing to do with the cubic inch displacement on an engine.

@@foxfordcatguy2283 I am not here judging a person what he does or does not know. Just giving someone some encouragement and or a little support. I have been around the block once or twice. I started somewhere once. Be nice, can't be nice be kind. BTW, I check your channel, where is your content? Have a good evening.

I called it a seal at the 0:53 second mark. That is the only gasket it has.

👍 glad I could help, thank you for subscribing.

I’m sending you another one of my videos. go to 1:02 and identify if that is the piece of metal you are referring to. If that is the correct part, then the 1985 E350 simply does not use it. m.ruclips.net/video/Ko1SqfviaG8/видео.html

@@gpadrov2 thanks

Yes that's it..for the e-brake lever..so for my install on a Ford 1 ton..it wasn't needed

Glad I helped, please subscribe. Thanks.

Getthingsdonellc@yahoo.com

I will keep the 3.3 litre inline 6 cylinder. I plan on using my cars as rental cars on an app named Turo. too much power for a rental vehicles isn’t good.