Issues I have with this is on mig no setting to adjust feed rate of wire so I'm currently get tons of pattern any help would be great as it starts feeding slow and then goes very fast
The wire feed rate is adjustable. It will read out in either meters per minute or feet per minute. The wire feed speed is directly related to the amperage output. Running in the synergic mode may help to reduce spatter. You can also adjust the wire feed or voltage settings from the synergic setting. Your stick out will have effect on the amount of spatter you get. Make sure you have the wire size and gas selection correct. The wire feed starts slowly until it detects the arc, then it speeds up. There is a name for that but I can’t remember it at the moment.
It depends on what kind of welding you want to do, whether it’s fluxcore, MIG or stick. For flux core welding you may want to get a knurled drive roller. For stick welding you may want to turn on hot start or change the arc force, per your preference. I know nothing about TIG welding.
@@bar-zn8lk thanks, I will probably never use the tig part but only flux with no gas and use the stick welding. I am definitely getting the kurling wheel for sure. I will only use .030 and.035 wire for flux welding.
Thanks for your good video. Did I understand correctly that the welding machine in Mig mode goes down to 10 A? It seems to be described as 30 A. I'm looking for a welder for thin sheet metal and for Cusi3 for repairing cars. Thanks for an answer
In synergic mode, it goes down to 30 Amps, but in manual mode, you can turn it down to about 10 Amps. With CO2 gas I can weld very thin metal, C25 gas would be even better.
probably has a settings for 1mm wire because these machines are made for the european market. just as the Mig gun that plugs into the machine uses the european style connection and not the u.s. standard you find on Miller and others.
@@TwoFeatherChannel In my last video on the MG 250 welder, I mentioned that I had found 1 mm MIG wire on Amazon. It is very stiff and springy but works just fine.
My machine came with 1 mm and .8 mm drive roller for solid mig wire as well as 1 mm and 1.2 mm for aluminum. You can get a dry roller for fluxcore wire from Amazon. a.co/d/2EKtHGQ
Hi, I have a question, have you worked aluminum with that welder? If yes, what parameters did you use to solder a 1/8" (0.125) plate, Volts and Amp using 0.9 wire? Thanks.
In the Sync mode, you set the wire feed/amperage and it sets the voltage for you. You can then adjust the voltage up or down from the sync setting, but to change it back to factory you just adjust it back to zero.
Depending on which spec you look at, it will go down to either 30 Amps or 15 Amps. You should be able to weld quite thin metal with MIG with this machine.
I’ve been very happy with it so far but I haven’t been using it as much lately because I’ve been using the MIG 250 that I did a review on, more for stick welding. I think the MIG 250 is better at stick welding as it has hot start as well as arc force adjustment. I think the MIG200pro is better for MIG welding with gas as it will go down very low for thin metal.
Exact same as HZXVOGEN MIG 250 JUST BOUGHT IT for 322$ on Amazon Canada and yes had to order a knurled roller $30 and wire haven't tried it yet but thanks for the review and set up
Hi great video I have just purchased one of these and all the functions are quite overwhelming,I need to weld 1.8mm steel 0.8 wire with co2 would you know approx what settings to put the displays at? Thanks Dixy
Turn on Syn and set the Amp (right hand) display to about 60 amps and turn the inductance (right hand knob) most of the way up. Make some test welds on some scrap metal and adjust the Amp setting up or down as needed to get good penetration without burning through. You can also use the spot welding mode to keep from burning through.
Aluminium Flux cored wire does not exist... Its a scam, so you need Argon Gas with solid Aluminium wire. Check your wire? it will be SOLID Aluminium wire or flux cored steel wire being sold as "Flux cored Aluminium wire"
Mi pregunta es si esta máquina le podés decir que sueldo en un grosor de hierro determinado y te dice en qué parámetro puedes aplicarlo ?? o es que no tiene esa opción
@@bar-zn8lk Hello. You asked how to write your own settings to a memory cell. In order for the device to remember, you need to select a memory cell (0-9) in advance and set the current, voltage, wire speed or synergy mode, after which you need to wait 20 seconds and the device will remember the memory cell itself. It is better to remember nothing on memory cell “0”, it is needed for random recording of a mode when you do not need to remember anything, and so, select any empty cell, adjust the current; voltage; wire speed and after finishing setting, wait 20 seconds. Sorry, I used an automatic translator, so you may not understand me well.
sellers advertise it as 250Amp output, as we see it is not, it is 170Amp max with fake 180Amp on display (MMA mode), HBM250 indicates only name, it is not related to max Amp output
The 250 amp claim is for TIG. I do not TIG weld, so I have not tested that. They claim 200 A for MIG and it will do that. They’re newer advertising only claims 170 amps for stick welding and I was able to get that. I figure that if the display is within 10% of the correct reading on a cheap Chinese welder, you’re doing pretty good.
I bought mine here www.ebay.com/itm/155636317514?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZWMTT9G8SEa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=tuwx3IikTo2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY The price has gone up some since I bought mine but it’s still a good deal in my opinion . You can easily get rollers for this machine and whatever size you want from.023 to.045. I got my drive rollers here www.ebay.com/itm/184314295365?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rQ1kkuE7S-K&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=tuwx3IikTo2&var=692007069110&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
In the US the circuit breaker panels are fed by 240 V, on three wires. There are two hot wires in a neutral. To get 120 V between one leg and neutral 120 V between the other leg in neutral and 240 V between the two hot legs. I hope this helps. I don’t know if I’m explaining it well, as I am not an electrician.
@@bar-zn8lk Thanksi never knew that - maybe its the safety side of 120v is why but to go long distance apart from Volts i think thicker copper is needed - we've always had 240v in Australia. I accidentally bought on Aliexpress a 120v soldering iron or Sodering there lol and it ran pretty hot till i got a 240 to 110 converger lol
I just Purchased this welder and was wondering. Do you have a video on how to lengthen the groundwire? Or how I can do it myself. Thank you your video is very helpful
I don’t have a video on that but if you search, there are others on RUclips. The one thing you need to be careful about is that you use pure copper welding cable, not copper plated aluminum that jumper cables are made from. I would recommend #2 welding cable if it’s not longer than 25 feet.
Thanks for a detailed video. Want to ask you if you have tried pulse function of this welder? Does the machine allow you to adjust pulse frequency? Also, did you try the CuAlSi setting to do any brazing?
My example works well with MIG-MAG for cobolt steel and I have also tested it with FLUX core which was ok but I don't like FLUX as it pops and smokes. I have not tested aluminum as it requires too much fixing. In contrast, the TIG LIFT system is totally useless. I have been chatting with Hitbox for 2 weeks and they are completely clueless about how a weld works. They send a video that shows how to handle/set up the welding for LIFT. Totally worthless, they have to dab the tungsten electrode (which is blunt!) a lot of times before they ignite. They increase the Amp setting to get the welder's recommendation to over 130 Amps
Flux core welding requires a different polarity than MIG 0:02 welding. Make sure you have the correct polarity for flux core welding. The brand of flux core wire you use also makes a difference, you might try a different brand. I’ve been pretty happy with my welder and have had no problems with it but I have never tried TIG welding.
@@bar-zn8lk Yes, I have connected everything correctly. I've welded before with FLUX and didn't like it, but in this machine the welding itself was ok, on the other hand, it's as usual, a stronger arc and it splatters. TIG, on the other hand (thorch with minus) does not work. Hitbox thinks I'm doing it wrong and has produced a 43 Mb video that would show how to do it. They do exactly the same as I do but if possible with worse results. The technician who will show me has probably never welded. A lot of trouble remains, I would like to keep the weld but with a small compensation
The accompanying manual is a joke with many outright inaccuracies. You can read that this welder operates with HF ignition, but it is a TIG-LIFT. On page 19, it is explained in detail how this HF function works! It is stated that the wiring to the Torch has a connection for the pedal, this does not exist. Furthermore, the gas connection on the torch cable is a 5/8" connection. You have to look for a long time to find such a connection on the gas controls. 90% have a hose connection. However, Amazon has such a gas control with 5/8" connection. Layout pictures sometimes show a completely different weld than the Hitbox syn 200 pro There is no word on how the included "cable" for aluminum welding should be installed. How to set up welding with FLUX-cor is not specified Doubtful if anyone at the company has any actual knowledge of welding, much less used a welder. etc. etc
Here is a link to a video on how to replace the liner for aluminum ruclips.net/video/MTWRzVqFz-Y/видео.html Setting up for flux core welding is easy. You select the MIG function, and then under WELDING MATERIAL Selection you select FCAW-S. Make sure you are set up for electrode negative with the ground clamp connected to the positive terminal.
@@bar-zn8lk Hello. I was just pointing out how bad their manual is. I got the video from Hitbox official store and I got info somewhere about where to set for FLUX core, but thank you very much for your reply. It is quite typical for Asians not to be able to come up with a manual that makes sense. I have lived in Asia for many years so I am aware of this, but it doesn't get better just because of that. A shame for an affordable and good product. I will try to solve the problem with TIG LIFT and possibly a pedal can be the answer to the problem. Have seen a video on YOUTube where they had a pedal for a LIFT. There is a 4-pin socket on the front of the welder (indicated on the welder as "outlet for torch"), so perhaps a pedal can be connected there If that doesn't solve my problem I'm thinking of buying a pure TIG HF welder (MMA comes with them all) and have found some at reasonable prices Just realized that it will be very tight to thread through the core if you have a 5 kg wire drum
You should be able to get replacement, contact tips, gas nozzles, and gas diffusers online. You can also get a complete replacement MIG gun, but hopefully that wouldn’t be necessary.
Are the dinse connectors beefier on this one than the MIG250? Seems like these may be 50A and the 250 appear 25A. The Arccaptain has 50A from what I can tell.
Yes, the connectors on the 200Pro are beefier than the ones on the Mig250. I don’t know why they made them different as they have about the same output. I guess it is cheaper to use the smaller ones and keep the price lower.
@@bar-zn8lk certainly less copper there. FWIW, I saw a Russian open the 250 in another video and on first glance the boards look identical to the arccaptain w/the arccaptain just taking up more space w/the case (though beefier connectors).
Great Video you made some things clearer and pointed to features i was not aware of For a total Newbie Thank You. Question for you Have you any information or videos on the use of the " Inductance adjustment knob" This would clear some things up for me as i can see no difference between - Std and + .
I am not an authority on how inductance affects the weld. I’ve only watched two or three RUclips videos about it, but it is my understanding that if you’re running straight CO2 gas, running the inductance up high can help the weld go smoother.
@@bar-zn8lk Thanks Buddy I am using 5% mix which i was advised by a work friend who is a welder, He explained a little about Inductance adjustment which basically is narrow or wide seam but i still cant see any difference, Other than that the MIG250 is a great little machine.
Nice work. I agree that I think not including the knurled rollers for flux core is a bit of a shame. Technically, you could probably use the standard or even the U groove roller if you are careful not to crush the wire, but it would be nice if they included flux core rollers.
I forgot to mention that the displays on the welder are easier to read in the garage than it appears in the video but a little harder when you’re outside in the daylight.
I think with flux-core, once you go beyond the total cheapo welders, it's the wire that matters more. Plus how low it goes. More "Low" is better. You ideally want one that goes down to 7.5 or 7.8 amps - how high it goes is irrelevant. 7.8 amps runs 0.8mm wire good on car bodywork..
Something I find strange is that most people start out welding with flux core wire, but these welders do not include a drive roller for flux core. I just bought a new Hitbox MIG 250 and am working on a RUclips review of it. It is advertised as a 4 in one aluminum welder. A bottle of argon gas to weld aluminum would cost more than the welder.
@@bar-zn8lk I run flux core through all our welders - we have quite a few. Only 1 has a "proper" flux core drive-wheel on the wire feeder. Never had an issue with any of them running flux. The one with the "proper" driveline has a whine off the cooling fan that would do your head in listening to it all day - so it seldom gets turned on - despite it being the best welder at running flux-wire. So yeah - the "proper" drive wheel is better - marginally - it's stuff you'd only notice when you have thousands of hours done - miniscule difference. I live with the tiny drop in performance from our other welders just to not have to listen to that whine all day. That "Whiney" welder also goes down to 6.6 amps at 12V nominal - it is the one feature I can't find on any other welder, even our spendy ones. You have to over-ride all the automatic settings to manually get into that low range (it's buried deep in a menu) - but when you do, it's superb on body-panels. I have 2k welders that can't even dream of offering such low settings. But that whine... Man, it would do your head in.. I just "live" with the fact 99% of welding machines are built for maximum high-end power because that is what people shop for, when really, IRL, low-end is where it is at for bodywork. I don't care how high a welder can go - I care how low it can go. Most manufacturers are obsessed with that "Max Power!" out of the cheapest frame.. I'm obsessed with "Minimum Power" out of any frame anyone is selling., Minimum is where the good stuff happens. "Max Power!" on 1mm steel is about as useful as an ashtray on a bicycle. You want minimum power,but smooth. My welders are all set at "1" - I dick with the wire feed speed to bridge the technology gap after that.
Hitbox marketing is pathetic - they make good welders, but their marketing department sucks. They make so much off their brilliant flux-core wire, they barely care if anyone buys a welder. Their wire sells out worldwide - so they focus on that. The actual machines get to play second fiddle.
I agree, I have thought about their poor marketing numerous times. It’s obvious that the people in their videos don’t really know how to weld. They are sometimes wearing short sleeve shirts, and no gloves. I have even seen one where they weren’t wearing a welding helmet while welding. I didn’t even know they made flux core wire until I saw it recently on one of their eBay stores. I prefer Blue Demon wire.
Did you try 4T?
No, I’ve never tried 4T. I never saw the need with the style of welding I do.
Issues I have with this is on mig no setting to adjust feed rate of wire so I'm currently get tons of pattern any help would be great as it starts feeding slow and then goes very fast
The wire feed rate is adjustable. It will read out in either meters per minute or feet per minute. The wire feed speed is directly related to the amperage output. Running in the synergic mode may help to reduce spatter. You can also adjust the wire feed or voltage settings from the synergic setting. Your stick out will have effect on the amount of spatter you get. Make sure you have the wire size and gas selection correct. The wire feed starts slowly until it detects the arc, then it speeds up. There is a name for that but I can’t remember it at the moment.
So I have ordered a welder just like this. My question is do you have to change the parameters to start welding right out of the box.
It depends on what kind of welding you want to do, whether it’s fluxcore, MIG or stick. For flux core welding you may want to get a knurled drive roller. For stick welding you may want to turn on hot start or change the arc force, per your preference. I know nothing about TIG welding.
@@bar-zn8lk thanks, I will probably never use the tig part but only flux with no gas and use the stick welding. I am definitely getting the kurling wheel for sure. I will only use .030 and.035 wire for flux welding.
Thanks for this review. Have you tried to use it for aluminum? I’m assuming you rigged up some sort of argon situation?
No, I have never welded aluminum as I do not have a tank of argon gas.
@@bar-zn8lk Thanks for getting back to me :)
Thanks for your good video. Did I understand correctly that the welding machine in Mig mode goes down to 10 A? It seems to be described as 30 A. I'm looking for a welder for thin sheet metal and for Cusi3 for repairing cars. Thanks for an answer
In synergic mode, it goes down to 30 Amps, but in manual mode, you can turn it down to about 10 Amps. With CO2 gas I can weld very thin metal, C25 gas would be even better.
Great review but you say the Mig-250 doesn't have a spool gun socket?
@@acoleman8783 No the MIG 250 does not have a socket for a school gun. I believe the MIG 200 does, that may be why it’s more expensive.
probably has a settings for 1mm wire because these machines are made for the european market. just as the Mig gun that plugs into the machine uses the european style connection and not the u.s. standard you find on Miller and others.
@@TwoFeatherChannel In my last video on the MG 250 welder, I mentioned that I had found 1 mm MIG wire on Amazon. It is very stiff and springy but works just fine.
Do you know the diameter of those guide rollers? I'm about to buy this machine and I'd like to buy the flux core rollers right away, thanks!
My machine came with 1 mm and .8 mm drive roller for solid mig wire as well as 1 mm and 1.2 mm for aluminum. You can get a dry roller for fluxcore wire from Amazon. a.co/d/2EKtHGQ
Thanks anyway for your attention!
Hi, I have a question, have you worked aluminum with that welder? If yes, what parameters did you use to solder a 1/8" (0.125) plate, Volts and Amp using 0.9 wire? Thanks.
I have never welded aluminum at all as I don’t have the required tank of argon gas.
Thanks. I own one machine like this. My problema Is I do note know how to factory reset for the Sync values. Any help you may provide?
In the Sync mode, you set the wire feed/amperage and it sets the voltage for you. You can then adjust the voltage up or down from the sync setting, but to change it back to factory you just adjust it back to zero.
Is it good for thin metal
Depending on which spec you look at, it will go down to either 30 Amps or 15 Amps. You should be able to weld quite thin metal with MIG with this machine.
Hello friend, I wanted to know what your experience has been with the welding machine and if you recommend I buy it?
I’ve been very happy with it so far but I haven’t been using it as much lately because I’ve been using the MIG 250 that I did a review on, more for stick welding. I think the MIG 250 is better at stick welding as it has hot start as well as arc force adjustment. I think the MIG200pro is better for MIG welding with gas as it will go down very low for thin metal.
Exact same as HZXVOGEN MIG 250 JUST BOUGHT IT for 322$ on Amazon Canada and yes had to order a knurled roller $30 and wire haven't tried it yet but thanks for the review and set up
how has it held up?
So far so good. I haven’t been using it that much lately, I’ve been using my Hitbox MIG 250. I did a video on that one as well.
Hi great video I have just purchased one of these and all the functions are quite overwhelming,I need to weld 1.8mm steel 0.8 wire with co2 would you know approx what settings to put the displays at? Thanks Dixy
Turn on Syn and set the Amp (right hand) display to about 60 amps and turn the inductance (right hand knob) most of the way up. Make some test welds on some scrap metal and adjust the Amp setting up or down as needed to get good penetration without burning through. You can also use the spot welding mode to keep from burning through.
Arcapton is the same machine as hitbox! 😅😅😅
That’s pretty much what I thought.
This is really a helpful video. It helped me a lot. God Bless!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Good information!!! Thanks for your help. God Bless!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Aluminium Flux cored wire does not exist... Its a scam, so you need Argon Gas with solid Aluminium wire. Check your wire? it will be SOLID Aluminium wire or flux cored steel wire being sold as "Flux cored Aluminium wire"
Mi pregunta es si esta máquina le podés decir que sueldo en un grosor de hierro determinado y te dice en qué parámetro puedes aplicarlo ?? o es que no tiene esa opción
Does the hzxyvogen brand have the same controls
I think so, but I can’t swear to it as I have never actually seen one.
Thanks I just bought the hitbox 250dp
@@BrianCiancio That’s a lot different welder.
@@bar-zn8lk thanks a lot for your time and effort helping us newbies
Hi cutie pie. Kisses you sweet, lovable, adorable man. Mwah, mwah, mmmmmwah!
It takes 20 seconds to memorize the program
Can you explain? I don’t understand.
@@bar-zn8lk Hello. You asked how to write your own settings to a memory cell. In order for the device to remember, you need to select a memory cell (0-9) in advance and set the current, voltage, wire speed or synergy mode, after which you need to wait 20 seconds and the device will remember the memory cell itself. It is better to remember nothing on memory cell “0”, it is needed for random recording of a mode when you do not need to remember anything, and so, select any empty cell, adjust the current; voltage; wire speed and after finishing setting, wait 20 seconds. Sorry, I used an automatic translator, so you may not understand me well.
@@sergeystr5409 Thank you for the clarification. I appreciate it and I’ll give it a try.
thank you for the review, its been hard to find anything on this machine
Glad I could help
Greetings sir, how well does it weld aluminium?
I have never welded aluminum as I do not have a bottle of argon which is required to weld aluminum.
sellers advertise it as 250Amp output, as we see it is not, it is 170Amp max with fake 180Amp on display (MMA mode), HBM250 indicates only name, it is not related to max Amp output
The 250 amp claim is for TIG. I do not TIG weld, so I have not tested that. They claim 200 A for MIG and it will do that. They’re newer advertising only claims 170 amps for stick welding and I was able to get that. I figure that if the display is within 10% of the correct reading on a cheap Chinese welder, you’re doing pretty good.
What's a good ebay seller so I get a good one seen alot of bad reviews and can you get rollers for .035 and .045
I bought mine here www.ebay.com/itm/155636317514?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZWMTT9G8SEa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=tuwx3IikTo2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY The price has gone up some since I bought mine but it’s still a good deal in my opinion . You can easily get rollers for this machine and whatever size you want from.023 to.045. I got my drive rollers here www.ebay.com/itm/184314295365?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rQ1kkuE7S-K&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=tuwx3IikTo2&var=692007069110&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I appreciate this review it’s helpful. Thank you so much. Keep going.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Im alsi looking at this unit - How do you get 240v from a 120v meter box in USA?
In the US the circuit breaker panels are fed by 240 V, on three wires. There are two hot wires in a neutral. To get 120 V between one leg and neutral 120 V between the other leg in neutral and 240 V between the two hot legs. I hope this helps. I don’t know if I’m explaining it well, as I am not an electrician.
@@bar-zn8lk Thanksi never knew that - maybe its the safety side of 120v is why but to go long distance apart from Volts i think thicker copper is needed - we've always had 240v in Australia. I accidentally bought on Aliexpress a 120v soldering iron or Sodering there lol and it ran pretty hot till i got a 240 to 110 converger lol
Thank you. Gave me everything that I need to know.
Glad it was helpful!
I just Purchased this welder and was wondering. Do you have a video on how to lengthen the groundwire? Or how I can do it myself. Thank you your video is very helpful
I don’t have a video on that but if you search, there are others on RUclips. The one thing you need to be careful about is that you use pure copper welding cable, not copper plated aluminum that jumper cables are made from. I would recommend #2 welding cable if it’s not longer than 25 feet.
@@bar-zn8lk thankyou
Does the welder have pulse function on the mig?
It has a spot weld mode that is adjustable but I don’t think it has what I understand a pulse mode to be.
Thanks for a detailed video. Want to ask you if you have tried pulse function of this welder? Does the machine allow you to adjust pulse frequency? Also, did you try the CuAlSi setting to do any brazing?
To my knowledge, this welder does not have a pulse function. Sorry, but I have not tried any brazing with it.
Hi if you send hitbox a message they will send you the manual in English I have the mig- 250 DP but I want one of these Regards pete
My example works well with MIG-MAG for cobolt steel and I have also tested it with FLUX core which was ok but I don't like FLUX as it pops and smokes. I have not tested aluminum as it requires too much fixing. In contrast, the TIG LIFT system is totally useless. I have been chatting with Hitbox for 2 weeks and they are completely clueless about how a weld works. They send a video that shows how to handle/set up the welding for LIFT. Totally worthless, they have to dab the tungsten electrode (which is blunt!) a lot of times before they ignite. They increase the Amp setting to get the welder's recommendation to over 130 Amps
Flux core welding requires a different polarity than MIG 0:02 welding. Make sure you have the correct polarity for flux core welding. The brand of flux core wire you use also makes a difference, you might try a different brand. I’ve been pretty happy with my welder and have had no problems with it but I have never tried TIG welding.
@@bar-zn8lk Yes, I have connected everything correctly. I've welded before with FLUX and didn't like it, but in this machine the welding itself was ok, on the other hand, it's as usual, a stronger arc and it splatters. TIG, on the other hand (thorch with minus) does not work. Hitbox thinks I'm doing it wrong and has produced a 43 Mb video that would show how to do it. They do exactly the same as I do but if possible with worse results. The technician who will show me has probably never welded. A lot of trouble remains, I would like to keep the weld but with a small compensation
The accompanying manual is a joke with many outright inaccuracies. You can read that this welder operates with HF ignition, but it is a TIG-LIFT. On page 19, it is explained in detail how this HF function works! It is stated that the wiring to the Torch has a connection for the pedal, this does not exist. Furthermore, the gas connection on the torch cable is a 5/8" connection. You have to look for a long time to find such a connection on the gas controls. 90% have a hose connection. However, Amazon has such a gas control with 5/8" connection. Layout pictures sometimes show a completely different weld than the Hitbox syn 200 pro There is no word on how the included "cable" for aluminum welding should be installed. How to set up welding with FLUX-cor is not specified Doubtful if anyone at the company has any actual knowledge of welding, much less used a welder. etc. etc
Here is a link to a video on how to replace the liner for aluminum ruclips.net/video/MTWRzVqFz-Y/видео.html Setting up for flux core welding is easy. You select the MIG function, and then under WELDING MATERIAL Selection you select FCAW-S. Make sure you are set up for electrode negative with the ground clamp connected to the positive terminal.
@@bar-zn8lk Hello. I was just pointing out how bad their manual is. I got the video from Hitbox official store and I got info somewhere about where to set for FLUX core, but thank you very much for your reply. It is quite typical for Asians not to be able to come up with a manual that makes sense. I have lived in Asia for many years so I am aware of this, but it doesn't get better just because of that. A shame for an affordable and good product. I will try to solve the problem with TIG LIFT and possibly a pedal can be the answer to the problem. Have seen a video on YOUTube where they had a pedal for a LIFT. There is a 4-pin socket on the front of the welder (indicated on the welder as "outlet for torch"), so perhaps a pedal can be connected there If that doesn't solve my problem I'm thinking of buying a pure TIG HF welder (MMA comes with them all) and have found some at reasonable prices Just realized that it will be very tight to thread through the core if you have a 5 kg wire drum
Awesome job!! Thanks for the very thorough review; I really appreciate all the details you covered. Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful video - think I will buy one
If you haven’t already seen it, check out my video on the MIG250 by Hitbox
Very helpful - thank you !
If you haven’t already seen it, check out my second video on the same welder. It’s kind of like part two after I had it for a while.
@@bar-zn8lk I did do - thanks!
I bought the original(not so many buttons) in 2020~ and it's been great! just need to replace part of the torch pretty much
You should be able to get replacement, contact tips, gas nozzles, and gas diffusers online. You can also get a complete replacement MIG gun, but hopefully that wouldn’t be necessary.
Are the dinse connectors beefier on this one than the MIG250? Seems like these may be 50A and the 250 appear 25A. The Arccaptain has 50A from what I can tell.
Yes, the connectors on the 200Pro are beefier than the ones on the Mig250. I don’t know why they made them different as they have about the same output. I guess it is cheaper to use the smaller ones and keep the price lower.
@@bar-zn8lk certainly less copper there. FWIW, I saw a Russian open the 250 in another video and on first glance the boards look identical to the arccaptain w/the arccaptain just taking up more space w/the case (though beefier connectors).
great instructions video, quite a machine, haven't welded in 15 years and ran a half decent bead , amazing welder
is the output of this machine AC/DC or DC only?
It is DC only.
Great Video you made some things clearer and pointed to features i was not aware of For a total Newbie Thank You. Question for you Have you any information or videos on the use of the " Inductance adjustment knob" This would clear some things up for me as i can see no difference between - Std and + .
I am not an authority on how inductance affects the weld. I’ve only watched two or three RUclips videos about it, but it is my understanding that if you’re running straight CO2 gas, running the inductance up high can help the weld go smoother.
@@bar-zn8lk Thanks Buddy I am using 5% mix which i was advised by a work friend who is a welder, He explained a little about Inductance adjustment which basically is narrow or wide seam but i still cant see any difference, Other than that the MIG250 is a great little machine.
Nice work. I agree that I think not including the knurled rollers for flux core is a bit of a shame. Technically, you could probably use the standard or even the U groove roller if you are careful not to crush the wire, but it would be nice if they included flux core rollers.
searching for a knurled roller now. i got only one roller with my machine not knurled
Your on youtube..sesrch how to knurl
Thanks for the informative video. Great job honestly describing the unit and its capabilities.
I forgot to mention that the displays on the welder are easier to read in the garage than it appears in the video but a little harder when you’re outside in the daylight.
I think with flux-core, once you go beyond the total cheapo welders, it's the wire that matters more. Plus how low it goes. More "Low" is better. You ideally want one that goes down to 7.5 or 7.8 amps - how high it goes is irrelevant. 7.8 amps runs 0.8mm wire good on car bodywork..
Something I find strange is that most people start out welding with flux core wire, but these welders do not include a drive roller for flux core. I just bought a new Hitbox MIG 250 and am working on a RUclips review of it. It is advertised as a 4 in one aluminum welder. A bottle of argon gas to weld aluminum would cost more than the welder.
@@bar-zn8lk I run flux core through all our welders - we have quite a few. Only 1 has a "proper" flux core drive-wheel on the wire feeder. Never had an issue with any of them running flux. The one with the "proper" driveline has a whine off the cooling fan that would do your head in listening to it all day - so it seldom gets turned on - despite it being the best welder at running flux-wire. So yeah - the "proper" drive wheel is better - marginally - it's stuff you'd only notice when you have thousands of hours done - miniscule difference. I live with the tiny drop in performance from our other welders just to not have to listen to that whine all day. That "Whiney" welder also goes down to 6.6 amps at 12V nominal - it is the one feature I can't find on any other welder, even our spendy ones. You have to over-ride all the automatic settings to manually get into that low range (it's buried deep in a menu) - but when you do, it's superb on body-panels. I have 2k welders that can't even dream of offering such low settings. But that whine... Man, it would do your head in.. I just "live" with the fact 99% of welding machines are built for maximum high-end power because that is what people shop for, when really, IRL, low-end is where it is at for bodywork. I don't care how high a welder can go - I care how low it can go. Most manufacturers are obsessed with that "Max Power!" out of the cheapest frame.. I'm obsessed with "Minimum Power" out of any frame anyone is selling., Minimum is where the good stuff happens. "Max Power!" on 1mm steel is about as useful as an ashtray on a bicycle. You want minimum power,but smooth. My welders are all set at "1" - I dick with the wire feed speed to bridge the technology gap after that.
Hitbox marketing is pathetic - they make good welders, but their marketing department sucks. They make so much off their brilliant flux-core wire, they barely care if anyone buys a welder. Their wire sells out worldwide - so they focus on that. The actual machines get to play second fiddle.
I agree, I have thought about their poor marketing numerous times. It’s obvious that the people in their videos don’t really know how to weld. They are sometimes wearing short sleeve shirts, and no gloves. I have even seen one where they weren’t wearing a welding helmet while welding. I didn’t even know they made flux core wire until I saw it recently on one of their eBay stores. I prefer Blue Demon wire.