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Just want to say thank you for putting this out there. Going to be very useful for fixing my honda's AC / heat switch.

You’ll have to reset the SRS warning light if you turn on the ignition before reconnecting the SRS connector. This video worked on a 2004 Civic ruclips.net/video/UrebJlm21I0/видео.html

It is not a good idea to store the air bag with cover down. If the air bag goes off it will launch it and could hurt someone or, damage something. Store it away from you with the top facing up. Treat it like the bomb that it is.

My mode control stopped switching today. Thanks for video

why didn't you show how the blend door connects back? It isn't the most obvious. Any idea where the diagram is for how you position the arm back inside the levers?

Great video I love the extra step. I'm not cheap I'm mechanically inclined and hate buying parts that I can easily fix my self. Thanks for the video.

Update: fixed my actuator issue. Followed everything you showed. I added a few steps more, I tested the motor with a Dewalt battery to make sure it functioned properly. Unfortunately my gears spun freely, so the only other thing I did was clean all contact points and slightly bent the pins that made contact with the gear to a more pressed on position. So far everything seems to work.* Added note, you will break the clasps holding the two halves of the motor housing, don't worry the screws that hold the bracket and housing will press everything together.

Thanks bro, trying to keep my old girl running as long as possible

Sorry, at 1:51 it opens wider when it is NOT being pushed. Tried to add text but added cc haha.

super helpful man

Appreciate the video. I was about to attempt swapping it out but I was able to give it a nudge with a screwdriver and now it moves freely. Hopefully I'll get a few more years out of it. 👍

Thanks for the video!!!! I’ve put off messing with the actuator for over a year. I would have to wait a week or two for the actuator to switch from defrost to vent, and I would leave it there for the whole season. I opened up the actuator, reapplied grease to the gears and removed the old dry grease, and then placed back together and functioned as it should… surprisingly. Saved $150 for the replacement part. Thanks again for your video:

From what Holley told me is the truck avenger was not designed for a on and off road trluck. They are for rock bouncing type rigs. I have talked to some people on Facebook pages and they have said the fuel passages in the fuel bowl coming from the accelerator pump need to be enlarged. I have not tried this yet myself

Wrong size power valve, for some stupid reason a lot of these came with a 2.5 power valve. Way too small. too small accel nozzle, accel pump cam wrong color and/or arm and spring loose or screw in wrong position. timing off. Also prolly not jetted for altitude. Holley is notorious for off idle dump. If none of those things then cam or valve train.

The light of air recirculation button turns ON, but makes no difference to the air flow when my AC is working. Any ideas?

Does control the temperature as well? or is it simply for switching between where the air comes out?

Worst video I have ever seen

Update ECM cannot be removed from the top, however the ECM is much easier to remove if you remove the mode control motor.

Thanks for the video. I just bought an 04 civic and the previous owner damaged the control motor when he removed the ECM. I had no idea how to access it. The ECM is difficult to remove now you got me thinking that with removing the airbag the ECM may be able to be removed from the top??? has anyone attempted this?

Hi, Chris. I see your video is quite old. I'm sorry to see you or anybody else having problems with your Holley carbs. I believe the problem with the Street Avenger & Truck Avenger type carbs is a lean idle system calibration. The calibration is an effort to improve fuel mileage and emissions. I would bet that your idle mixture screws needed to be turned out more than 2 turns (probably 2-1/2) each for your motor to idle properly. If so, that is definite indication that the IDLE FEED RESTRICTION in the metering block is too small. I don't want to make this too lengthy so you can Google to find out where that is in your metering block. It will probably be approximately .028". By opening that restriction up .002" you will see a noticeable improvement. You may even want to open it up .002" more to .032" for example. You should know your idle mixture is good when your idle mixture screws need about 1 to 1-1/2 turns out each. You will need index drills & micrometer or caliper to perform described modification. I hope you try & good luck. A better yet modification is to install REPLACEABLE Idle Feed Restrictions but that is getting into a more complicated procedure.

Thank you for putting this out. Perfect fix. Really appreciate it.

Thanks bro. I might actually try and take it apart too haha.

In the Chilton repair book it only says to remove the ECM, not the airbag, but do you think that there is enough room to only remove the ECM? Thanks for the timely video by the way, something with my mode control motor went bad only a week ago :)

How do u connect the Rca cables to the factory amp? Mine is making a hissing noise and sounds maxed out at volume 1

There's no fix. I sent it into holley and they replaced the primary pump injector check ball with a heavier needle(looks like a float needle). It works better but still has the issue when it warms up. Design flaw in the ta series. Chucked it in a drawer. No more holley for me. It's sad since they used to be great.

Did you figure this out? Having the same issues with no luck so far... just keep slapping it with $$$

Talk about someone that doesn’t have a clew.

Bad Holly! No more soup for you! Finally broke down and sent it to the maker. Heard nothing from them for about 3 weeks then the carb finally showed up on my steps. Put it on and it worked "better" for a couple weeks then started doing the same thing. disassembled it to see what was different and found that they had swapped the primary injector ball for a heavier injector needle and a super tiny piece of dirt had got in there causing loss of pressure and the problems return. It seems that this thing must be kept perfectly clean in order to function. Not such a good plan for a carb that was created for off road vehicles. Their band-aid style fix and un-responsive tech support will have me buying from the new alternatives for this and all my other cars from now on.

4.5 power valve and set the transfer slots to look like a square.

To the wizards at Holley. Maybe this will help. I bought it(770 ta) new in box and it did this on install. Have tried float levels, mixtures, larger accelerator pump, different a.p. cams, small to large pump nozzles, new fuel pump(Holley red), pressure reg and gauge and a few other voodoo ritual things Holley phone support told me to over the past year and a half. Right now I have a quadrajet pieced together from a bucket of scraps on it and it's running beautifully so it's not anything with the engine itself but those suckers are too warm blooded for Utah. I know the forever fix is fuel injection but that's not how poor boys work.