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Hi. End of shaft has two flats either side...Making for a rectangular slot. Plate has rectangular hole. If it's sitting correct there should be no gap between. Good luck

@@electricmotorrepair2605 thanks for your help

Easy enough to do. Just swap polarity of run winding with respects to start, however If you do this the impeller will be going in the wrong direction and the pump will not pump. On top of this the impeller will come loose and bad things will happen! Cheers

@@electricmotorrepair2605 أنا أستخدم الموتور فقط في غرض مشروع شخصي

ruclips.net/user/redirect?event=comments&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbFlLZlZQdXBPbmZtSjNuVzZTYlBick1ZZFVmUXxBQ3Jtc0tuSWM4dU1FZHNhem1tLUxjUkNpT2VHQU5GRGd0aVlpeXFyNUxMZ1dGeE5Md200dHh4UmtPcV9oRkJWcnlHWldSeDNSeUlQdkd6RWtDSVRNTlJaOHJxdF9XOFdWYzM4cWNFWUF5Sk1qMDJ6RkpfNGtZUQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffile%2Fd%2F1PXF9CNdCs6uM4iGcQ3zYZ-RI7HYQQ8Ga%2Fview%3Fusp%3Dsharing&stzid=UgzaHXtQiRsVEQ2up294AaABAg.9rDQQnX3Z469rHOglBGpZ-

The bottom photo shows the black plastic overload with blue, yellow and white (with black strip). sometimes these can intermittently open and stay open. You can either replace or bridge. You should have over current protection already anyway at board!. Just check resistance across OL ...should be less than .5 ohms *While disconnected from supply. Cheers

Hi, Sorry I thought I had already replied to this post. In an earlier comment I supplied a link to pictures showing wiring. It is the black plastic bit with three wires (yellow/blue/White with black strip) going to it. You can pick up the klixons from most electrical retailers. Test continuity first to make sure it's stuck open and if it is, then just take it in. It should have the current rating printed on the side. Cheers

Hi. Sorry I do not understand translation. Have run text through AI as below, but with little success! Based on the given text, here is an analysis of the potential incorrect words and their likely corrections: Incorrect: "You did not leave anything that you did not explain" Likely Correction: "You explained everything thoroughly" Incorrect: "but you kept the white bone that conducts electricity" Likely Correction: "but you ignored the essential part that explains everything" Incorrect: "You did not come up with any emergency to clarify it" Likely Correction: "You did not provide any additional information to clarify it" You are welcome to try again and hopefully I can answer your question next time. Thanks

​@@electricmotorrepair2605 .. Sorry, I'm trying to translate via google I will try to explain more in: If you remove the back cover, does it not appear in front of you, and on the right, a white bone that connects to the internal wires with the external electrical supply wire? I am asking about the way to connect the back wires to it, how is the way and what are the colors (blue-white-violet)

Thank you and go ahead

@@عبداللهناصر-ر8خ مرحبًا ، قد يكون من الأسهل ترجمة النص باستخدام Chat GPT! لقد أضفت بعض الصور التي التقطتها للتو من المحركات التي ستتم التخلص منها قريبًا. L1 هو المرحلة و L2 هو النيوترال. السلك من لفة البدء إلى القاطع أحمر اللون. آمل أن يساعد هذا وحظًا سعيدًا. كلايتون

drive.google.com/file/d/1PXF9CNdCs6uM4iGcQ3zYZ-RI7HYQQ8Ga/view?usp=sharing

Hi Nickolas. Glad this worked for you. It makes sense to me, to be sure that the shaft does not spin free. This way you can apply pressure to the impeller as evenly as possible. These impellers can easily break! .If you were to wedge a screwdriver through the vanes and smack it with a hammer, I wouldn't imagine it would end well. If you are overhauling pumps on a regular basis, I would really recommend the adjustable strap wrench. Definitely worth the investment. Appreciate your comment and good luck.

Hi Tbass. Either shorts in your run winding or more likely water ingress past seal, up shaft and into the drive end bearing in turn ruining it!. I would check the current (electrical) drawn under load and compare it to the nameplate value first. If measuring under no load, it should be a little over half of the full load current. Also you can check resistances from both ends of run to the centre tapped start which should be even. If not, I wouldn't bother replacing bearings. Cheers Clayton

Hi Barry. If leak has just developed, then more likely a worn 5/8" mechanical seal. Can tell by looking if it is coming from behind seal plate or dripping from bottom clamp. Be sure to tap clamp from bottom and around sides as you are tightening back up, otherwise you will think it is tight when it's actually not. Hope this helps. Cheers Clayton

@@electricmotorrepair2605 Thank you Clayton

Hi Mahendra I appreciate the offer, however, I have enough of these parts to sink a boat. Cheers Clayton

Thanks George

So, from what I understand, You suspect you may have a bad capacitor and you have spun the motors shaft by hand to see if it starts spinning on run. Before I say any more, I would like to make it very clear that I have never recommended to anybody, anywhere to touch a faulty AND energized electric motor without testing it's insulation resistance to earth and circuit continuity first. But given that you are still with us, I suppose we can rule out the windings being hard down to earth. My first thought would be shorted turns in your run winding. You can test this (with motor disconnected from supply) by measuring resistance from where start comes out at switch (normally red with spade) to both ends of the run winding (start to phase tab, start to neutral tab). The start is centre tapped to run so you should get an even resistance on both sides which include half the resistance from run winding and full resistance of start in series. Overall resistance of run will be different for different voltage configurations and motor wattages (ie 110VAC vs 230VAC 3/4HP vs 1HP etc). which is why I have not mentioned any expected ohms. Hope this helps.

CRC black zinc is what I have always used. Cheers and good luck with your overhaul.

Hi Scott. If necessary I sand blast to remove corrosion, heat up end bell and while hot spry with zinc. By the time it cools down the paint is dry to the touch. Cheers

Hi Katy. Sorry, I have not published 8 yet. If you want any questions answered to help complete your job, just ask and hopefully I can help. You can email clayton@electricmotorrepair.co.nz . Cheers Clayton

Gidday there Double Bizzy. These Starites don't have one. The shaft spins counter clockwise. They have a brass "right hand" threaded insert which is molded into the impeller and is blind. Many of the waterco pumps and a few others have this design you are talking about.. Also the later insnrg VFD pumps. But good to always look for this. I have seen many broken on account of people trying to remove impellers without unscrewing the "reverse threaded bolt" Cheers

@@electricmotorrepair2605 Yes, I almost broke mine, yikes! Thank you.

Thanks 👍

No lo siento

Hi Nelson. I think you are talking about the v shaped stationary switch contact that is attached to the non drive end plate. If so, I removed this on video 2/8 around 1.30sec. If not, then let me know. Cheers

Yes, like the dura-glas models, there are still thousands out there working well. Have not uploaded finished result, but later it gets gloss zinced which will help it last for many more years to come. Cheers

One of the best pumps out there I’ve mine lasted 21 years before I decided to go with a VS pump the sta rite max e and dura glass clamp style pumps have been made since the mid 80s I’m pretty sure

Thanks. Was waiting to see if many people would be interested. Will edit and upload next few videos to complete overhaul playlist soonish. Cheers