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Ive used arm r seal for over a decade and never had a problem however I have always used a foar brush or roller for larger tables and always use semi gloss for furniture..just my opinion but looks like dumping it on like that isn't the way to do it. Apply light even coats with the grain.

Festool is a pretty good joice for a sander but did u ever heard of "mirka"?

for some woods you will want to use a Pre-Stain conditioner, sand, then hardening tung oil like Danish Oil, then arm-r-seal, sand, coat 2, sand, coat 3. Temperature above 60. Wait longer between coats. That was what went wrong. Also, you can thin it a little bit to extend the cure time, like, 10% mineral spirits added and stirred. You definitely want to find a way to mop the entire top with a roud head cellulose foam head on a stick. Then you can do lengthwise and stop doing a third at a time.

Why the ETS 150/3 instead of the 150/5?

With Arm-R-Seal, a streaky finish means that you applied it too thin. You have to put in a thicker coat than what you were doing. You also have to keep it stirred very well during application. The Satin finish has a lot of flattening agents that will settle. If you don't keep it stirred, you get poor results.

You saved me from doing an entry table with that product

I've used this for years on multiple woods and sizes. Never had a problem. It finishes better than any other wipe on to spray, including Emtech water based lacquer and Mono Coat. Comes out, for me, streak free and glass smooth. Monocoat with their Sheen plus is also awesome but dry times are extended.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm about to do a 7'x3' black walnut table and was going to use the Arm R Seal.

Now that you have had this tool for a while now, would you recommend it?

beautiful end result

great I just fricking ordered it. i wonder if I spray it on with my HLVP sprayer if it will be better?

Don't be a bitch. Tablesaw first.

I noticed that you applied it but did not go from end to end with the cloth after. I have built five tables and used Arm R Seal with awesome results.

I’ve used this quite Bit in the past with great results. I just used it again after a few years and am having the same streaking problems. I went on the FB forum and got all kinds of advice. I’m trying it again today on another desk. I’ll keep ya posted. Thanks for the vid

Where’s the dust extraction?

Which track saw is better festool or mafell ?

I thought this is urethane not poly

Sorry about your problems with Arm-R Seal. I recently use Arm-R-Seal on an oak counter top for use in my kitchen and it was easy to use and made a perfect flawless surface that was water resistant and looked great. I think I know what went wrong. After applying it, It is critical that you immediately wipe off in long strokes all the excess material you can. If you leave any on the surface you will get streaks. then dont go back over any section. I think that may have been your problem. Three thin coats and the finish is flawless. This is one of my favorite finishes because it looks natural and is easy to work with. The smell is the only issue indoors but it is milder than most other oil based finishes. Here is a great video on using Armor-R-Seal from Stumpy Nubs. ruclips.net/video/v4NCxzNdNAw/видео.html

My only issue I had with Arm R Seal Satin was that it takes a whole MONTH to cure, even though it only takes a day to dry. Wasn't planning to add an additional month to my already 2 month project.

You should have applied it the same way you applied the monocoat....you were way to finicky when applying.

It's excellent product. You didn't keep it mixed continually like you're supposed to. So don't use a product, if you're not going to keep it mixed continually. My .02 👍

You have to put it in a bottle and shake it every time you apply it to a section or on a rag. Let the silica power mix!

Gotta use long even strokes in one direction. Not rubbing back and forth. Even better throw it in a spray gun and just spray it

You wouldn't have any problem if you sprayed with hvlp...I've never had an issue. On dark wood I've wet sanded after third coat and buffed out table tops. I've never had a problem and have been using it for years on fireplace mantels .

Arm-R- Seal needs to be spread out in larger areas at a time and much faster, especially on a piece that big. On something that large you actually should have dumped it on. Ive been finishing for 40 years and this is probably the best DIY finish available. When I do use it I use a foam brush but I have also sprayed it.

I have been finishing wood for decades and used the Armor Seal Satin for the first time a few weeks ago on a dining room table. The results the best, smoothest, and most even satin finish I have ever achieved. This product is not to be applied like most polyurethanes. I applied with soft cloth, then wiped off the excess within a few minutes. Sanded with 300 grit between coats. After 4 coats, I buffed with 0000 scotch bright pad. Results were perfectly smooth, even satin finish.

Appreciate the experience, however, I have had great success by mixing Arm-r-Seal with Mineral Spirits (1:1) and then do multiple coats....eliminates streaking and allows better spread time. Plus it allows you to build up multiple durable coats. B. Baker - Wisconsin Timberworks.

Should have sprayed it

Mafell is geared towards timberframing and heavy lumber. Festool is geared towards sheet goods and general construction materials.

Product iv had the most issues with is their water poly. I have to mix it with about 15% distilled water to get it to not be a complete disaster. Min wax if you can apply it right and avoid bubbles.. lays wayyyy smoother and more clear. Which at a fraction of the cost really annoyed me. If spraying it, maybe its a non issue other than the clarity.

A beginner should drop $1700 on a track saw?

Hello Thomas! Great video. I loved the fact you are not using very expensive tools and this table turned out amazing ! Now I like the legs, what is the place in Latvia called? Definitely subscribed after watching this and binging your other videos!

I use this product daily. It is a very good product. I brush on larger tables etc. the key with general finishes is that they are using in a controlled environment. I work in a open shop, but if I’m applying my last Coats of arm r seal. I bring the table inside. With the heat, it doesn’t gas out properly when drying and drys way to quick. Stir often when doing bigger pieces as well

Been refinishing as a hobby for about 25 yrs. Decided to use ARM-R-Seal rather than standard poly. Applied over sanded 220, then gel oil stain (1 coat). I really don't like ARM-R-Seal. Why? Application pools, requires going over surface multiple times, even wiping brush. Why? I used satin, and it's too shiny for a surface top. How many coats? Five. Every coat was too shiny. Excessive, yes. I kept what I refinished because it's only a chest for a bedroom, but I will not use it again.

An old timer once told me “It’s a poor man that blames his tools.” I’ve generally found that all finishing products work as intended. It is the level of patience that one has for the process that needs adjusting when results do not meet one’s expectations. There are finishes designed to be slathered on in one or two coats that work fine. No need to disparage a fine product.

i’ve just finished a 3’x6’ table with this product and it looks perfect. my guess is you didn’t stir enough to keep the flattening agent active.. or applied too much pressure. also the first few coats are likely to have streaks.. its really not until the fourth coat that it starts to look flat and even. apply that fourth coat super thin with minimal pressure and long slow wipes. obviously the natural products are going to look better but the durability is much lower. varnish requires a more professional application but when done well will last much longer and look great.

Arm-R-Seal is too thick for anything straight from the can. I always thin at least 10% with mineral spirits, 25% if I'm using my HVLP sprayer. For wiping I always use a microfiber pad being careful to not wipe too fast or leave too heavy a film. Speedy wiping will also cause streaking. Leftover product always goes into a "Stoplossbag" from Woodcraft to keep air out of the product. Always stir - never shake. Two coats, then sanding with 600 grit after the second, then wipe on a 25% thinned coat has always worked for me. I'll spray if grain runs are more than 48 inches long though.

One problem I noticed is that you weren’t keeping it mixed as you applied it. Any satin oil polyurethane product has flattening agents. In order to avoid a blotchy streaky finish with patches glossy and flatter spots, you have to have to keep it well mixed to keep the flattening agents evenly mixed and in suspension in the mixture. I use a magnetic laboratory mixer on a low speed to keep satin finish mixed as I apply it. For larger projects, it would be better to use the roll ant tip method. Roll it on and tip it off with a quality brush, maintaining a wet edge, and resist the urge to go back over areas too much.

No beginner should be buying Festool or Mafell. Yes they're the best, but you can buy a complete 'set' of blue, red, or yellows for that price.

I like your ambition but there so many holes in this argument. That sander needs a vac attached , and a planer is super important

I've never seen anybody pour arm r seal on the surface. It looks like you put it on way to heavy.

I have just used this for the first time also. It is the worst finish I have used in 12 years! I wish I had seen this before I just finished a vintage desk. I am not a professional yet I have been an avid hobbyist for many years. I have used GF Gel Stain and love it. I put this over a navy chalk paint from Annie Sloan and have been a fan of it for 12 years. AS has a great laquer sealer that does a fine finish also with no streaks. It comes in gloss or matte. Thanks for the video. I will try the one you recommend.

The table looked good before you poured stripper on it.. you didn’t really show us the issue on camera. Close up ? I can’t tell you we’re worried for your client. Maybe next time show it on camera the mistake ?

How about the Festool HK85?

It needed a sealer coat before the top coat you used. Disaster.

How come this dude did it just fine: ruclips.net/video/_Lii2-_jwSs/видео.html

"I didn't have huge budget". *Buys a 1500 saw*

Humidity is your issue. I see you're in your garage. Please take it inside and run a dehumidifier in the room you're using. Please run an overpowered dehumidifier if you need to stay in your garage.

You should put few coats of gloss then put satin over it to get flat look.. if you wanna ever try again

Soon I'm buying either the K85 or KSS60. You think the 2 3/8 cutting depth isn't enough for the KSS60?