You're going to have sticking pads because you didn't lubricate the pins or the places where the pads cobras the caliper. That's why your pins wetter so hard to get out and look cooked.
Those pins don’t need to be lubed per Brmbos spec sheet and neither do the pads. Full dry run. I hope all these years later you’ve grown and do research before you run your face.
I’m about to do pads and rotors on my Stinger GT2. I’ve had a terrible time with brake squeal and I have a feeling the shop didn’t lubricate or clean something or reused worn parts. Where should I be adding brake grease or lubricate? Do the pins need grease? And where should I be lubricating the pads?
@@bmastudiorobertbienkowski1863 Yeah, aftermarket. I only selected aftermarket pads that "include hardware" (Pins, Shims, etc). They're listed in order from best to "worst". Unfortunately, not many brands make pads with hardware for this car yet. Power Stop, seems to be the only brand that makes pads for different applications/scenarios. I also included a list of pads from auto parts stores. All pads in this comment are Front Pads. POWER STOP (Performance): Z266012 POWER STOP (Premium): Z236012 POWER STOP (Daily): 176012 WAGNER (Economy): ZD2145 _________________________________________________________________________________ Advance Auto: CarQuest: NAD2145 (Not sure if these include brake hardware) AutoZone: Duralast Gold: DG2144
How did you compress the caliper?
Excellent vid my man
Title is misleading. Should have said you're changing out the pads, sounded like you were changing the brembo brake system as a whole.
Where did you get your break pads??
I noticed you didn't show depression on caliper piston did you pry with flat head?
Awesome thank you!!!
You're going to have sticking pads because you didn't lubricate the pins or the places where the pads cobras the caliper. That's why your pins wetter so hard to get out and look cooked.
Those pins don’t need to be lubed per Brmbos spec sheet and neither do the pads. Full dry run. I hope all these years later you’ve grown and do research before you run your face.
No brake cleaner?
So you are not changing the brakes, just the pads?
Yes, you don’t change the calipers, just pads
Thanks. Might consider changing the title then to match what you are doing to help people searching for DIY stuff.
@@JamesNoBrakes appreciate the luv champ, it actually helps the video algorithms 🤝
I’m about to do pads and rotors on my Stinger GT2. I’ve had a terrible time with brake squeal and I have a feeling the shop didn’t lubricate or clean something or reused worn parts. Where should I be adding brake grease or lubricate? Do the pins need grease? And where should I be lubricating the pads?
I know it’s late, but you should add it to the pins & the backside of the pads 🤝
Does anybody have the part number for the brake pads
OEM Part: 58101-J5A51
Are there any alternatives?
@@bmastudiorobertbienkowski1863 Yeah, aftermarket. I only selected aftermarket pads that "include hardware" (Pins, Shims, etc). They're listed in order from best to "worst". Unfortunately, not many brands make pads with hardware for this car yet. Power Stop, seems to be the only brand that makes pads for different applications/scenarios. I also included a list of pads from auto parts stores. All pads in this comment are Front Pads. POWER STOP (Performance): Z266012 POWER STOP (Premium): Z236012 POWER STOP (Daily): 176012 WAGNER (Economy): ZD2145 _________________________________________________________________________________ Advance Auto: CarQuest: NAD2145 (Not sure if these include brake hardware) AutoZone: Duralast Gold: DG2144
@@MTTech Mitsubishi Evo X pads fit ;)
Hey do these brakes have a brake wear indicator? One that provides indication to the cars diagnostic systems?
No. Just an acoustic indicator
What did you use to take the pins out? Also was that brush yall used?
Looks like a punch tool to me
Smaller punch tool, and just a wire brush
How did you depress the pistons?
@@Domeboitheoriginal he used a flat head to pry it.