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I would think if they were situated the other direction, it might be more difficult to remove the frames, especially if there is any built up propolis. Beyond that, I'm not sure.

You're welcome!

Hello Jorgo, they are great for backyard or small numbers but not if you have hundreds. We’re going to be selling these in the spring because we have hundreds of langstroth and want everything to be the same size. Otherwise we love them!

@@walnutfarmbees-brianHello! , thank you very much for the answer. I don't want many beehives, the maximum 20. I am a handyman but I have a hobby for bees. Now I only have 14. I want to see up close how the Slovenian model works, because I want to build it, if you are available, I want to come and see it, I live in Naples Florida, thank you

Unfortunately there is nothing to see this time of year, as we're in Pennsylvania, and our colonies are now ready for the winter (which we hope we get--it's fairly warm today).

This week definitely feels that way!

Interesting--so with the combination of the absorbent pad, are you trying to increase the R value or thinking about moisture?

@@badassbees3680 mostly Carniolan

@walnutfarmbees-brian I run strictly Carnis but if there's no pollen it takes mine a lb a week not to lose cluster numbers to attrition even more to grow.interesting.my dbl deeps already have box of capped honey even with supers on some I'm fighting backfilling .

@@badassbees3680 yes, it gets to the point where they know based on daylight hours that it’s time to backfill and start shutting down-makes things a bit more of a challenge if we have a long, warm, extended fall like we’ve been having

@@walnutfarmbees-brian I know..used to be they brooded up around Sept 9 and backfilled that when it hatched and ready for winter...now like last year I fed all way up ( run around 50 give or take) and then warm weather exhausted food and I was re feeding late and worried about moisture. It's hot here all week and I forsee a nightmare trying to figure out again 😆 🤣 😂

Thank you! You too!

The first group were killed by roundup. The second group were impacted by both fungicide and insecticide. Watch the first one, and you'll see the details.

I'd say the majority I've dealt with are very responsible, just not this one...

Totally agree. This would simply be a convenience item or for someone with a colony or two

Yes, if you watch the video, you'll see I mention it's not the cheapest option. It's more of a convenience product, and does have the hive alive added.

@@walnutfarmbees-brian thanks I watch the whole thing

@@walnutfarmbees-brian I haven’t open my hives since June fifth and I’m going to do probably next week, remove some honey and I will leave 200 pounds of granulated sugar in the yard so anyone can come and have it

@@wilvertperezjust be careful if you feed out in the open it might bring in some robbing bees

@@walnutfarmbees-brian thanks so much for the advice I appreciate it

Yes these were also glued. I am sure there are ways to diminish the effects (such as screws) but bottom line is I’d never choose this product over wax dipped again. Im slowly aging out the eco dipped boxes and replacing them with wax dipped ones.

Probably not in most scenarios but location does matter when it comes to a discussion of pesticides, fungicides and other chemicals. I’ll be putting out a video soon on that topic

Thanks for letting me know

Have tried variations with glue, same effect. Screws would help.

There are a couple of places making them. I think AZ hives north america sells one, but a bit pricey.

Thanks for sharing! Good idea for anyone who has access to those...

Not always true. If properly kiln dried and painted you will not have any trouble. Half blind dovetails like this are awesome for boxes. Lots of glue and 2 coats of primer topped by 2 coats of top quality exterior paint and your good for 5 years easy. No matter the lay of the grain. Eco wood is crap. Thays this guy's problem. He trusted his investment poorly. And is sharing to help others. Any wood any grain will go crap bare.

You say that to everyone.🤣

So, there's nothing wrong with using a moisture or quilt box at the top of the colony. It's something I don't know is always necessary but it doesn't hurt. I would not put the reflectix insulation inside the hive walls. Instead, put a piece under your lid, if it is used anywhere.

I’m not sure of your northern Utah climate but we have bees as far north as northern Pa not far from the New York border. I typically don’t wrap anything as we’ve found healthy colonies do well regardless, however I’m not sure there’s anything wrong with good insulation if done correctly. What I’ve found is that when we have insulated hives (as we’ve done for our breeder queens), they need ventilation on top unlike the rest of our colonies.

Yes, I could believe it might help with the heat down where you are. Other than winter, I remove it up in Pennsylvania as otherwise it just becomes a place for pests like ants to hide out.

That also works, more a matter of when you want to feed. Those sugar bricks can also help when the weather swings back and forth as it has in recent years. Thanks for your comment

Yes, I agree that it would work if done no more than a few days apart. However, after a few weeks of that, I'd wait until a broodless period. It may not impact the bees as much as some other treatments, but we can't say it doesn't impact them. The extended OA you refer to does look promising!

It was a triple oil sealer called duck back that Mann lake used to carry, not sure if it exists anymore

@@walnutfarmbees-brian I have some triple boiled linseed oil i may cut with Turpentine, Mineral Spirits, or Varsol and apply thinly and often. Thinking just soaking corners to give end grain longer to soak.

@@phillipriggs3375it’s possible. Seems like sealing the end grains did help.

@@walnutfarmbees-brian I am a pre-Beginner Beekeeper in the gathering stages to start May- June. You beekeepers are the most friendly community i have ever known, well.... beside my Church. Thank Y'all !

@@phillipriggs3375 best of luck as you start with your bees-some challenges but a whole lot of fun!

There is an escape hole in the top of the window of the shed so they can fly out

Glad it was helpful!

Probably the biggest benefit would be the lack of lifting (only one frame at a time). I've never seen a quantity of bees go back into the structure (they are used to exiting the front). We have an escape hole with plexiglass that they fly out of if trapped inside.

Just an added note , a late post as I just found this. I have scoliosis that has worsened with my age. I'm 67. Before long it will be impossible for me to lift boxes or stand holding frames up for inspection. I don't wish to quit what I love to do. With these hives I can sit, slide a frame out without strain. I'm out of the direct sun. And I find the Bees are really calm. I feel this gives anyone that might have a disability another option for keeping Bees.

@@schammond8993 I've seen in Slovenia that wheelchair bound beekeepers successfully persue their hobby with this design too.

Hello Rok, the jar has a lid with tiny holes in it and the bees can access the feed that way

@@walnutfarmbees-brian So the syrup isn't dripping trough the holes? How big of a holes are we talking about?

@@rpersak very tiny pin prick holes so that the syrup really doesn’t drip out

Greetings! Handiwork of my children

Thanks for sharing. I haven't tried painting over them as I don't want to paint any of my equipment, but I have used screws to fix them and may try wax dipping over some. Fortunately we now moved on to wax dipping. I may still use it for honey supers, as they have done fine, since they're only outdoors a few months in the summer.

We're fairly far from that in south central and northeast Pennsylvania. Probably more impacts likely in western PA.

@@walnutfarmbees-brian good luck sir. Have you looked into magnets on your hives? Sounds a little out there. Copper is a good anti fungal. Copper strips at the threshold?? Just saw this a few days ago. Interesting. I have 18 acres, I need to get off my lazy ass and get some hives out here. Every 2 or 3 years I study it more than hen do nothing. SAD!!

@@mackelby1 No, I haven't really looked into that, but if you explore that further when you have bees, feel free to let me know. So far, the bees seem to do well and the propolis they product acts as somewhat of an immune system

Pennsylvania

Any mask is a bit annoying to wear but it works well in blocking the vapors which is what is important. If it’s not hot out, not bad to wear. Here’s the mask I’m using: Full Face Organic Vapor, Chemical, & Particulate Respirator - 1 Year Manufacturer Warranty - Reusable Eye Protection Mask a.co/d/9zLvAGS

I would not recommend heating a beehive or a beehouse. If you're in a cold area, heating it would not improve winter survival but instead cause the bees to break cluster and go outside, thinking the weather is warmer. If a colony is of decent size, healthy, and has food, the cold won't matter--they'll survive. Even in cold climates (for example, Canada) where some larger operations winter indoors, they try to keep it so the temperature in the building doesn't go over 40, because they don't want to be too warm.

If you don't over insulate, I don't find a reason to ventilate. I don't wrap the boxes or anything like that, just the single piece of reflectix shown here. Even that is not 100% necessary, but it does help any condensation to not drip straight down. I don't use any upper entrance or ventilation. A healthy colony does just fine without any quilt boxes, wrapping, etc. I'm speaking from Pennsylvania and nearby areas--perhaps different in far north.

@@walnutfarmbees-brian I bought some of that yesterday before I ever saw your vid. Frederick Dunn (RUclips) said he was going to experiment with it this year and I figured I’d try it. I was going to lay it over my frame cover boards on my Long Langstroth hive. I have 1” foam board insulation under the lid also. I’ve got 2 regular Langstroths to do that to also. Fred said he doesn’t vent his hives either and everyone says you have to or moisture will build up. Fred said they need a little moisture to survive on when they can’t get out to feed. If your feeding dry sugar seems like they’d need some moisture on the sugar to be able to feed on it. I’m new at this stuff and no expert whatsoever.

@@jamesbarron1202 Yes if you use dry sugar definitely want to spray it down or add some moisture or they’ll haul it out of the hive. Wait until freezing weather to add that.