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Great video!! Came in handy

But if I suspect that someone previously had reinstalled at least one of sprockets and I would like to ensure they both are in perfect alignment so I will lock cams from the back and loosen up sprockets bolts - will I have to turn them around CLOCKWISE fully and until marks are matching the notches before tightening (new) sprocket bolts? Since sprockets are variable they might be installed on cams not perfectly in right position irrespective of cams locked on the back.

How much would a used t5 engine cost?

Nice car thanks for the reviews you guys do a nice job

What if I rolled the cam wheel backwards?

"only a slob would do that" .. haha love it

nice vidio thanks for that

Yup junkyard for the volvo stupid ass p.o.s engineering there is nothing nice about a unreliable volvo design

Actually, it turns out that the mark was so far off on the intake cam because it WAS a tooth off. And the diagram in the manual DOES match what you ended up with after installing the tool on the back side - however, the marks appear to be a half tooth off in each direction, which is kind of bogus. You don't actually need that tool as it turns out.

If the camshaft locking tool fits properly then it doesn't really matter how the timing marks on the sprockets line up with the timing cover, because if you are sure piston 1 is at TDC then the timing is guaranteed to be correct. Timing marks can move if the sprockets have previously been loosened and re-torqued in a slightly different position. The camshaft screws at the other end can easily get the heads chewed up but I've never had a problem removing them with a T30 torx bit on an impact wrench. There's plenty of room to get an impact wrench on them with the engine out of the car too.

I’m trying to set the timing on my Volvo 2004 S4 T5 turbo I looked at your video and the lines at the backside of the backside of the cam where you put the cam locking tool I aligned them but I can’t find a low notch marks on the front side of the cam by the wheel to line them up, right

Thanks for this video. Question does the magnet side sit facing inwards towards the motor or out? Thanks

How could you accidentally start the engine with the crank pin in the motor?

Are the VVT hubs sprung like on the P2 RN engines or are they locked solid? Great vid bro

you can see @ 1:22 that the manual shows the marks NOT being straight down of the notch. Thanks for the video!

Thanks

I think it’s funny how they continue to use the T5 because the old five cylinder was the best motor they’ve ever made

How would it be possible to accidentally start the engine if that tool will only go in with the starter off the engine

Es la primera vez, el problema fue que salto una biela y se rompió el Block calculo por falta de aceite o la bomba, voy a tener que comprar la herramienta, gracias me gustan tus videos bien detallado

El video buenísimo justamente estoy armando uno

Hola, una pregunta los engranajes no hay dejarlos suelto armar todo y después apretar todo

Have to do this one soon lol!!! Great Vid!!!

Where can i get the tool on 1:45 can you please let me know maybe a part number or something so i can find it online i was able to find the other one on amazon but this one i cant find it anywhere, thanks in advance very good job.

I would try several other options before welding to get that bolt out. These dont rust out like exhaust bolts. With torx it is critical to clean the bolt socket completely, use a high quality new condition bit and tap the bit in firmly Before turning to remove. Most of the time the bolt will loosen. If you strip it next step for me is to dremel a line in the bolt and try a large screwdriver head. You can also tap counter clockwise with a punch or use a spring punch.

Thanks for the information. Thinking about buying one of these and like to know what sort of maintenance is needed and how much of a PITA it's going to be. Let's me determine how much I'm willing to pay someone else to do it versus doing it myself :)

Volvos are really frustrating to work on. Its like they were never designed to be repaired.

I had this issue on a 2008 bmw 328xi. I replaced both rear wheel bearings with FAG brand bearing and the abs 4x4 light came on.

I have a different problem where any sensor, new or old - all working, states "5F1E Wheel speed sensor, front right (air gap)" as the error. The symptoms are the same as when you have a bad transfer case actuator, as in the triad of lights, but it only beeps once, shows the lights, then immediately turns them of again. This error repeats periodically several times every time I drive it. Sometimes every few seconds, but sometimes there might be 5-6 minutes of "respite" from the error :) I was almost 100% certain that it was the plastic wheel in the actuator and I had it open on the workbench ready to replace it, but the plastic cog/wheel was in perfect order. I did replace it nonetheless as the actuator already was open. So... then I got to thinking it might be the actual speed sensor ring on the wheel bearing. My thought was to extend the cables to swap the signal from left to right and vice versa - and if the error now is reported on the RIGHT side, then it simply has to be the wheel bearing. Or do you guys have a different idea?

You skipped the snap ring after you put the housing back together.

So marks on the cover were ok...it looked like it was a tooth off, and it was.

Good job. Other no show of tools 4 set timing belt

Bonito vídeo gracias de mucha ayuda

muy bueno saludo desde argentina

marks are fine ive done this job 1000 times! DONT BUY THAT EXPENSIVE TOOL!

When you buy a bearing it gives option for magnetic ring make sure you order right part don't need to be original just needs abs ring

Why you need some sophisticated tools? Change tooth at the belt since both camshaft are aligned. Is a quantic problem (digital), not analogic!!

So basically this is the best and most reasonable explanation regarding timing on B5 engines. I really hate it when people just use markers and draw lines on the block / head and that is it. Personally I would rather invest into the locking tool than in a new engine. So one question though. The same tools apply to the 2.3 Turbo engine B5234T4 too ?

Great video 👍👍👍👍👍

Here's a tip....I put oxy acetylene heat to the rear torx head bolts at the rear of the cam...about 15 seconds worth.. small flame.. when it just starts to turn red that's enough... let it cool for a minute and I guarantee you they'll come out really easy.

This looks very similar to the Ford xr5 turbo engine...then again they are Volvo engines

So...volvo t5s are not 4 cylinder. Extraneous information not necessary.

Donde puedo conseguir esas herramientas ??? Las necesito urgente

Thank you So much Mr

Nice video I have a question I have a 1993 f150 with a 5.8 motor in it the transfer case will shift all day long into high but not low every so often it will go into low it has that motor on it transfer case motor pull the motor off it shifts into high but not low what is your thoughts on that

Hola u may can’t install the starter because the crank tool will be in the way so no way u can crank accidentally

Hi great video. Do you adjust the camshafts using the camshaft locking tool ? I have the same problem that my camshaft are not in line ,I have the exact same locking kit as you have. Any help will be greatly appreciated . Mally

Hello, i' m living in Brazil. Thank you for your vídeo. This vídeo helpy me more. Sorry my inglês for don't os good, OK? I like you vídeo.

What special tools do you need and where can they be purchased?

Yes good video. The marks on the cover and vvt gears are just a ball park reference for inspection only not for setting the timing. The locking tools locks the zero reference timing in place(remember the cam gears vary the cam timing while running). With the cams and crank locked in place, you want to set your belt tension before you torque the cam gears. Always loosen the gears, even if you do not change the seals. But just loose enough so that the cam gears rotate independent of the cams. You do not want them "sloppy loose". But then again why would you not change the seals and re seal the cam cover anyway? If not the slack taken up by the tensioner can preload one or both of the vvt gears. Remember the tensioner will pull the cams slightly counter clockwise. It can be subtle enough to even pull the cams slightly out after the lock tool is removed. The results could vary from, bent valves, poor idle and check engine light. The check engine light may not show up until the end of an oil life cycle. Then you will end up ghost chasing a vvt issue. The tool is relatively cheap, and its the only right way to do the job.

Hi. this Miguel master transmission , I like the video ,thank 352 227 0912