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@@przemekwitczak4243 yes the blue/green sensors have issues with the calibration software. You need to use either the Ginfulls with curved magnets OR what I use every time now are the Gulikit TMR sensors (no need to file the module, they fit right on it). However even doing it this way poses issues due to the magnetic stick bases, which is why I developed custom stick bases that are compatible with series 2 sticks to circumvent this issue.

@@duby149 this is true if you have access to calibration software, which I did not at the time of making this video... However now that I do, thankfully the calibration boards are a thing of the past haha.

It's very important that if you go the route of calibration boards, you do NOT attempt calibrating using the Accessories App, as this can cause all kinds of problems with competing calibrations. Also, I have run into situations where the latest firmware caused excess jitter, so may be the case that rolling back firmware is necessary for the most stable performance using the calibration boards. If using Ginful curved magnets or Gulikit TMRs on Series X/S, I recommend NOT using calibration boards and instead using the accessories app to calibrate. If using any other kind of hall effects, then the calibration boards are the way to go.

@@AtomicMike421 Thanks for replying! I installed the v5 and v51 calibration boards on the Xbox Series X/S controller. I installed the hall effects from K-Silver. (It came with the manufacturer's recommended kit v5 and v51). My biggest question for those who installed the v5 and v51 PCBs would be whether they could update the controller's firmware normally or if there are problems when updating.

@@jonrodrigos yeah, I've had controllers that did have jitter problems after updating, and also controllers that did not have issues after updating. You can always roll back your firmware, so you can update and see if it works okay

perfect! thanks, I'll try to do that.

@@MrKingPing it's the magnet interference coming from the paddles I would think. I solve this on elite series 2 with MuMetal (info in description) I assume it would work on series 1 as well? May also want to make sure the paddle/magnet isn't actually making contact with one of the pins on the right stick, just a piece of electrical tape covering either the paddles/magnets from the inside, or the solder points of the right stick. If issue persists after the tape, then it's magnetic interference for sure

@@AtomicMike421 by electrical tape you mean the Faraday tape? Also shouldn't the magnets interfere right away after assembling the controller? Why are they going nuts only after mounting the back paddles? 😭😭

@@MrKingPing no electrical tape is just to prevent a short or any pin from the back of the stick module contacting the MuMetal. Not sure why the paddles themselves would change anything aside from maybe slightly altering the magnetic field already coming from the magnets..?

@@deebs11218 those little diodes are only needed on Xbox, and should come with the calibration boards. Honestly I wouldn't recommend undertaking this as a first try at soldering, it's a bit more difficult than typical repair/upgrades.

​@@AtomicMike421 I appreciate the warning and I've seen enough videos on this to know it isn't for the faint of heart. If I fail, I wont be too broken up about it.

These - www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832769564060.html?channel=twinner

@@salvatoreverde9395 I use www.acxesspring.com/english/ for spring shopping. You'll need calipers to measure the spring you're replacing.

the little holes only calibrate the center point, and newer, more accurate hall effects dont have that option. the boards are mainly for calibrating range, ensuring you have full range in all directions as well as the range not going too far outside the circle in diagonals.

@@noremalos1445 so after lots of testing, I've found its doable, but I've started exclusively using custom stick bases I 3d print, with no magnets, and are able to adjust the tension gradually instead of only 3 settings. May make a video on them soon. 👍

@@n64slayer nope cuz I replace those with far more durable ones haha

@AtomicMike421 that's fair but I'd rather get any other controller 😅

@@n64slayer haha hey man to each their own, I use an Elite Series 1 as my main LOL

@@AtomicMike421 I mainly use 3rd party because they are actually good out of the box 🤷‍♂️

@@pavogear9190 if you can't get into mode b/s, then it probably has something to do with the soldering on either end of the diode. I would resolder those points, making sure the negative end is soldered to the pin, and positive end is soldered to the board.

@@AtomicMike421 Thank you for your answer. You mean the black diode that you also have to solder on, right?

@@pavogear9190 yep

@@folgee7368 sure thing brother, here ya go: a.aliexpress.com/_mLcA588

@@AtomicMike421 Thank you brother!

Yes it's absolutely not necessary, the v5 Ginfulls are slightly more accurate and a bit easier to calibrate, that's all.

@@OldAndyFitia hahah good ear!

@@thesilencer8074 I just did a controller just like that! Adjustable Tension Hall effects with TMR sensors on a Series X/S controller. I rolled the dice and used the App for calibration (it's randomly completely bricked controllers before) and luckily this time it turned out perfectly! Good luck on your project!

nvm, I reloded your video and the description gave them!

@@folgee7368 yup, sometimes they are called v4 SE or something.... But the important thing is the curved magnets.

​@@AtomicMike421 What is the difference between version v3 with rectangular magnets and this version v4 with curved magnets?

@@danii1623 better circularity, easier calibration

Apparently, the application that Xbox launched to calibrate its joysticks is not compatible with magnetic joysticks, it does not detect them, and after performing the calibration they work worse than before. Have you tested the operation of this Xbox application to calibrate the joysticks, both with original joysticks and magnetic joysticks? Greetings!

@@danii1623 yes I've had both successes and failures using hall effects. It's risky because the app has bricked controllers of mine before... But the most recent 2 I did are working perfectly.

In my experience, it may be possible if you position and install the module PERFECTLY. Which isn't a super difficult thing to do on other controllers... However for whatever reason, it's way more common on the Series 2 to need a few adjustments to get the module perfectly level with the board. Also the perfect height of the module from the board is also needed. Too high and the thumbstick bases will rub against the inside of the frame and feel awful. But too "low" and range will be lost likely in diagonals. So to summarize, yes I do think it's possible, but the margin for error is so insanely small... So I certainly wouldn't count on it. Lol

Nope shorter and wider than Alps brand potentiometer analogs, but favor union and c&k brand potentiometer analog springs should fit

i wanna decrease my tension. any spring for that?

@@OddManOut420 sure, I haven't done it yet, and you'd need to try out different sizes and test them, which isn't the quickest, easiest, or cheapest process... Lol but I typically use www.acxesspring.com/english/ for spring shopping

Can this be done while it's on the board ?

@@xDaWorsT13 unfortunately no

Yes this is because there's a built in system to compensate for the effect of the triggers' magnets on the hall effects thumbsticks, I wasn't able to completely remove this but you can minimize it to a point where it barely registers in-game by adjusting the deadzone settings in the gamesir app

This: a.co/d/8CNsLfo

It's just hot glue 👍

Like remapping through the controller or app instead of redoing circuits 😂

Ah, it's gone back to the customer so I can't test it to see... My custom rear buttons allow mapping triggers to them, but not sure if the gamesir can do it.

No kit, I just used Omron D2LS switches and some wire.

what kind of wire do u use?

Hey bro, yeah shoot me an email at michael@tryhardcustoms.com

Thank you brother, much appreciated!

hahah thanks brother!

Thanks man that means a lot!!

He's keeping it strong.

Thanks bro! I really enjoyed your last H2 tage as well, was a very fun watch!