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No. I did this in a moment of need, and do have some regrets. The rails don't seem right for my car, in spite of being assured by the seller that they were correct. There has been some leaking into the car since installing them and my drilling wasn't the best. Some of the holes were slightly out of place and needed widening to allow the rails to fit, increasing the potential for leaking. I would take it to a specialist or dealer if i were given another chance! That being said, I have made some changes that I will show in a later video.

@@fredflintstone2077 Yes, you're right. It is the all wheel drive and I was assuming the two (front) wheel drive would be the same, as the sensors are used for the anti-lock braking system.

@@tonyt1554 Yes, it's been my daily driver ever since. I have some bodywork and engine cooling issues but nothing serious enough to stop it being used.

Lost in translation.

Thank you for the feedback

Thank you for your comment. I did not do this , however I do not seem to have had any problems.

@@mrmoodster5405 miałeś szczęście wszystkie rzeczy w white blocks idą na uszczelkę beztlenową. dlaczego ? bo nie zatkają kanałów olejowych, bo uszczelka uszczelnia to, co nie ma tlenu. resztę wypłukuje olej. miska olejowa ma kanały olejowe i nie ma wyżłobień pod silicon, dlatego trzeba używać dedykowaną www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=p%C5%82ynna+uszczelka+volvo

I wish I'd known that sooner. Thanks for letting me know anyway.

Can you send the link/picture to this system please? How hard is it to mount/dismount? I guess the biggest advantage of rails is that you drive with it all the time (no noise) and put additional bars across when you need it (and it's quick mount), whereas with this rack that you've mentioned I guess there might be little bit more work to put it on or take it away. I sometimes need box on the roof, but also do motorways where I wouldn't want any noisy friend above my head. What's your experience?

@@TomSon-ej3pw I fitted them because I needed to move some sheets of ply board and plasterboard. I drove carefully, fearful that the wind might catch under the boards and either damage them or brake the ties. So wind noise with the boards wasn't bad. The wind noise did increase with the roof bars attached but with only the rails it wasn't noticeable. I've never used a roof box so I cant comment on that.

The cam cover was leaking at the back, over the exhaust manifold. I was concerned that the oil might start a fire.

@@mrmoodster5405 thanks. Went through the entire series yesterday. This job intimidates me but am planning for it. About how many miles before it started leaking?

@@pgreenx OK, the answer to this is a bit embarrassing. The cylinder head gasket failed around 190K miles, and the cam cover leaked because I didn't seal it properly when I did the rebuild after replacing the head gasket. The sealant requires an even spread across a clean mating surface. Either I spread the sealant too thin at the back or didn't clean the surface well enough. The car had very few miles when I resealed the cover and has now done a further 30K (210K total) without any more leaks.

Every job on this car seems to be a major operation! I wish you well with your repair.

I can't say that it is. The Volvo T5 and T6 engines (which mine is) are very similar and use the same procedures and tools. As far as I can determine, the S40 does not use either of these engines.

Yes, well spotted. Off camera I had to split the caliper and fit the o-ring. I didn't fit pads as this was a spare caliper and I'd already refurbished the one on the bike.

Maybe the starter motor comes from another Honda model?

According to CSMNL the part numbers for the starter are different, implying that the starters are different. The part number for my bike is 31200MFP003. Search for your model on the CSMNL website, find the correct part number for your starter and then do a search (either on the CSMNL website or generally) by part number. That should give you a list of bike models that use the same starter. Good luck!

Yes, I definitely should have, as I now have water ingress causing electrical problems! I should also have been more accurate in placing the drill holes, as the large holes I made have exacerbated the problem. I was hoping the rubber feet on the rails would help seal it, but as you see in this video they're not an exact fit. I suspect these rails may not be from a V70... maybe a V40? But the studs do line up with the internal paneling so... I don't know!

It seems I not only missed this on removal (I forgot to record it!), but also I skipped recording the refitment (because I thought I'd already shown removal). In Episode 1 from around 4:35 I show the removal of the last panel. Note: apart from the screw at the top of the panel and the two at the bottom (holding the bracket to the frame) there are three small screws holding the side panels the centre section. You do not need to remove the centre section (in fact the side panels should be removed first). Remove the top screw from the black facia and carefully move it out from behind the instrument console. Once it is out, you will be able to remove the three screws holding the side panel to the centre section. Then remove the two bolts holding the side panel bracket to the frame, being careful to make sure the panel doesn't fall once the last bolt comes out! Good luck!

Thanks a lot for your answere. I actually would like to install the side panels on the right place. I saw on your video that the bottom of the bracket was bent. I'm affraid of the same because the side panels does not fit to the center section. There is approx 5mm difference on both side. Sorry for my poor English. :)@@mrmoodster5405

Check and see if the centre section is in the right place. In part 1 I stand at the end of the bike and look along to see if the console is on the centre line of the bike. This told me that the centre section was not aligned, so I corrected that first. Then I could see that the right side panel was too close to the centre section and the bolts were hard to unscrew. This told me that the bracket holding the panel was bent. I used the bracket from the left panel and compared them. They should be a mirror of each other. This showed me how much I needed to bend and twist the right bracket to make it match the left. This is what I did. I do not know if it will help you, but good luck!

Yes, I will definitely do it. Thank you!

Fortunately mine was just fell on her side on the spot.

Thank you. I hope you find it helpful.

I have 2004 vovlo xc90 2.9l how i get the head bolt and cam cover torque spec. ​i installed the turbos and everythingin order now except that i dont know this tourq and angle torque specs. @mrmoodster5405

I've shown how to remove the battery and battery box in a previous video here: ruclips.net/video/BlrnrkYsU1w/видео.htmlsi=ORUD_DNndCKie-Wo

Hi Roly... I think your reply is no more of a rant than my video! I agree with most of your comments. Here in Scotland the roads themselves are becoming the problem: poorly maintained and potholed. The main roads are OK, but once we venture onto side roads or 'B' roads it can be like driving across plowed fields. One of the points I was making in the video is how the limits don't seem to follow any sensible sequence, with 40mph leading into 20mph then back to 30mph, 20mph and 40mph... it's all over the place. And visually there doesn't seem to be any reasoning. But the painted 30mph on the road is my favourite. It looks like somebody took the roadside markings away and forgot about the road marking.

Squeak? Why do think that?

I absolutely agree. That inner plastic panel: it's not just removing the screws. It's getting the ******* thing to unclip! Putting it on is easy.... taking it off is a battle Royale! Perhaps the Honda mechanics hourly rate is the reason it's so difficult? 🤔 I even had a struggle removing the two dome head screws holding the frame to the chassis. That was probably because the collision damage twisted the fairing frames. Then there's the electrical connector: easy off but fiddly to plug back in. The connector is in a shielded cover behind the headlight. It's hard to get one hand in, move the cover and push the connector together. Even harder if you want to use two hands! Modern vehicle makers don't like home mechanics.

As you can see in the video, the reinforcement plates are fitted on the inside. These add strength to the roof panel to prevent it from buckling under load. After finishing the work I moved several sheets of chipboard and plasterboard (that wouldn’t fit into the car) without any problems. Tightening the straps down didn’t cause any movement in the rails, so they seem firmly attached. We’ve had some heavy rain and no damp seems to be getting into the car, so I guess all is good.

@@mrmoodster5405 ... so was your Volvo actually designed to have the roof rails given that you've had the reinforcement plates?

@@TomSon-ej3pw I think this is done in the manufacturing process to make production easier (no separate production requirements), to allow fitting of roof rails by dealers for sales incentives and for additional sales potential as after sales add-ons. I don't know this as a fact, but it seems likely as the plates are clearly on my car already.

Hi!, I used a company here in the UK called Volvo Part Shop [volvoparts@tmsmotorgroup.co.uk]. I found them very helpful and reasonably priced (cheaper than the Volvo dealerships), however I do not know if they will supply parts to Chilé. The carriage costs and exchange rates may make it more expensive than using a supplier within your country. Good Luck! The T6 is a very reliable engine and mine has done over 200K miles (320K km). I visit friends 350 miles (560km) away a couple of times a year, as well as local driving and it has always brought me home. I hope yours serves you well.

Nope, still got that old, noisy, scrappy Volvo!!

Hi. Thank you for the comment. There is no sequence for torque of cam cover bolts as permanent distortion of the cover is unlikely due to the thinner material. It applies to head bolts because the bigger casting can be permanently deformed due to uneven pressure of the high-stress bolts, leading to head gasket failure.

That's why you torque sequenced so you don't have a warpage failure especially with aluminum

No. Apart from removing interior lights, nothing electrical was disturbed. The biggest risk being the SIP airbags, but I didn't need to move or disconnect them. They won't be activated by some gentle movement (like removing the plastic trim pieces) so I'm not sure why disconnecting the battery would be needed. Please explain.

@@mrmoodster5405 Good to know! Disconnecting the battery deactivate the airbags 'i think so anyway!' Came to think about it, as when changing a steering wheel they disconnect the battery and wait like 10 minutes. So i thought maybe it's the same thing when working around Sips airbag units. But i am maybe wrong 🙂 So good to know how you did! As when i got my rails they was on a car standing on a car wrecking yard and the car was powerless when i took them off! And i am going to switch my black rails to silver rails. So thats why it's good to know how you did with the battery. 🙂

@@krillet1566 If you are disconnecting airbags you MUST disconnect the battery, as the bag may trigger when the bag is reconnected. It is an explosive device and can cause serious injury. It's not uncommon for victims of collisions to get burns from the airbag discharging. Better than putting your face through the windscreen, but not nice.

Thank you.

Hi...sorry it's taking so long. I'm not getting as much time on it is I'd like and my next task is to remove the cylinder head. My objective is to check the bores and piston rings as I had symptoms of low compression. Why are you refurbishing yours? Is it because of a fault or because its aging?

@@mrmoodster5405 I bought it from Facebook marketplace and it is not in it's best shape. The carburetor is from a 250 and definitely would not make the bike run good. The paint is also bad it looked like it was sprayed using a spray can. The engine runs pretty decent but the worst thing is that it is very hard to find parts

@@jaybeeong6059 a lot of the chassis parts are the same as the XJ600F. My rear suspension was shot and I bought a replacement from a 600, which is marked with the 33M model type showing it is the same unit. I may have a spare set of carbs somewhere in the garage. If I can find them, would you be interested?

@@mrmoodster5405 Thanks for that information I really appreciate it. Anyways, I already have a new carburetor installed, the correct one, but I haven't tested it out yet. Do you have an Instagram or anything alike so that I can reach to you easier

Hi. Thank you for your question. I'm sorry, I'm not familiar with the CB1000RR model and have no idea if it uses the same parts. I suggest using the CSMNL website. They are a parts supplier for discontinued motorcycles. They have detailed parts lists on their website, so you can check if both models use the same throttle assemblies. I hope this helps.

Thank you for asking. You do not say what the issues are (I may be able to make suggestions), but I am not a professional mechanic so cannot offer advice. Talk to your local dealership or qualified motorcycle mechanic. Good luck!

I apologise for the delay in replying. I show removing the rear section including the number plate bracket in Part 8 of this series. I hope this is of help.

I'd be happy to learn a better way. Tell me how you think I could do it quicker.

Thanks for your question. Unfortunately I'm not the guy to be asked. I believe in originality. Engineers spent years researching, designing and testing the bike to perform in a certain way to achieve the objectives, i.e faster, more economical, comfortable etc... depending what they want the bike to be used for. Changing the engine will change the dynamics of the bike. A heavier engine will affect the frames performance as will a more powerful one. My thoughts are if your Nighthawk isn't doing what you'd like it to then change it for one that will. Of course this is just my opinion. You're absolutely free to do whatever you want with your bike. And which engine you use depends on how much work you want to do to fit it. Sorry that I'm not much help to you,.