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What do you recommend, semi hard or sofr mungyo oil pastels for beginner

I prefer Grumbacher over Windsor Newton and Gamblin, but all are very good.

I love the thickness of old holland. And gamblin is my 2nd favorite because they are also more stiff. Good for studies. Both are great for folks who love using mediums

This is not flake white !!!

It looks like Gamblin is just as good as Old Holland but it's better to work with.

Can I put a gloss layer over a satin one? didn´t liked the satin finish, want more glossy finish.

This video was so helpful! Thank you 🙂 I just ordered a set of the Rembrandt! I use Langridge normally and I’m so happy with it. I’m hoping the Rembrandt will be similar.

I cringed when I saw you touching the paint without gloves! Oil paints are very toxic, some more than others, so please protect yourself by wearing gloves. And god forbid your young children accidentally touch the paint. You don’t have to believe me so please do some research to protect your health.

Old Holland oil paints are expensive because it has more pigments instead of a lot of fillers, which is what student grade paints are mostly fillers, in the long run you will pay more for cheaper oils, while still having plenty of Old Holland tubes left, that's all we use and without solvents, when you paint thin layers with Old Holland, you can if need be go back over a section that's already painted 2 days ago and paint over it, because the linseed oil they add to the pigment drys the paint pretty fast. But if you're doing impasto it's going to take some time to dry.

Use soap and water to get the oil paint off your, never put solvent on your clothes, it's not good for you. The best thing at the time of you doing this video is stop recording wash out the oil paint, and come back with another shirt on. If I get paint on my hands I use soap and water and 90% to 100% of the oil comes off, depending where it touches your skin.

I don’t understand how can you compare it if they are just different whites this is misleading

JERRYSARTARAMA...$12 BUCKS ;OIL OR ACRYLIC.. GREAT PRICE GREAT PRODUCT

Useful video. Thank you!

How long after the painting is finished should you wait to varnish?

Great video, it was really well explained. Thank you 🙏

Do you prefer satin or gloss? I noticed the comments saying the satin produces a white film

very nice.

every art student should learn to neutralize their colors and make shades, tints and greys, as well as browns of all sorts. This could save some time I suppose, but if the paint is softer than mayonaise, its pretty cheap, bad stuff. I will take the extra time and make my own tinted greys instead.

I have tried so many brands of oil paint, all artist grade and most of them are considered to be the best. Utrecht is so good that I just can't justify buying a much more expensive brand. There is one exception, however. I also use Mussini because they smell so good.

your choice?

Dawn dish soap will get it out of clothes

You use solvent or oil for thick paints. People buy them cause they are more pigmented which means you need less paint to cover object, less layers. You never buy it to be more oily... which means more fillers than pigment.

From this video you can tell you have no clue about oil paints. If color is transparent depends on color not on brand. Some are always half or transparent. You talk empty talks

Beautiful painting!!!

Watching again and again this fantastic movie, it would be fantastic if you returned to YT and resume making your excellent videos, You are excellent.

I just tried the Satin varnish on a painting as a test and it dried pretty mat and my colors look dull now even like a white film. Then I searched here and found your video. I think I'll try the gloss varnish next time and see. What I was looking for was at least a varnish that smells nothing.

I just took this out of my cart this morning because the price increased.

As far as stiff paint goes, I like heavy bodied paint that I can still spread and mix tones easily. When the paint is too stiff from the tube, it takes too much time to add my "oil mixtures" and blend the color and tint I'm seeking. I mostly paint in the range of 32"X 24 canvas, approx 6 paintings per month. I have an abstract going, an impressionist landscape and some science fiction of sorts going at one time. I like the oily paint when I need to mix quick and cover a large area. I like it really stiff while taking my time mixing the perfect highlight or detail tone. I love the cheap low pigment raw umber and Paynes gray for quickly bringing down my greens. "Just a little dab will do ya" Having to keep adding expensive paint because you over did the raw umber ends up having to mix too much paint and a waste. Except when toning down a violet, I like a high quality, high pigment cad orange. My go too paints most often are artist pro grade Winsor Newton and Ultrech on sale at Blick. I'm not big on pre mixed colors. I like mixing my own, especially those highly varying pinks and greens. A high quality yellow ochre is a must on my pallet. It needs to be medium body and quick but not too wet. I have a mix of turpentine, linseed oil and mineral spirits on hand when needed. I also use a mix of Liquin Light Gel with a bit of mineral spirits on early layers for quicker dry time. Sometimes I just want to add a bit of paint thinner instead of oil for a nice flat wash. I would advise to experiment with all paints and additives and not get too selective. The way you find out is by painting and painting and more painting!

Great easy to follow and understand how to varnish oil painting. Really appreciate when there are so many opinions on this issue to come across one video that is right to the point with easy to understand instructions. Glad I came across this!!!

Curious to see a test with a varnish. Varnish of course is not for everyone's taste cause it can change the colours a bit, but also could give UV protection. And to be honest I like how varnish changes the colours a lot, especially when added on thick layer. There is acrylic based ones that claim it doesn't yellow over time as well. They add up to the cost though.

Utrecht is hard to beat for the value. I've been using Utrecht for years and it's consistent in quality. Although I've never had a problem, Blicks customer service is top notch.

paint that separates oil mostly is because it doesnt have stabilizers in it- the highest quality usually doesnt have those.

Try Blockx oil paints from Belgium next time. They dry slowly but I love them, and they are a family company that has been around since forever :)

I heard that with WMOils, sum stay tacky if you use water to thin them. It's suppose to be better if you use the thinning mediums made for them? And use the ones by same brand as the paint.

26:53 I am a fan of using fixative, but, doesn't your fixative eats/dissolves parts of the thin light layers? Do you paint a thicker layer of white or any light pastel layers?

A way to stop all the oil from coming out is to store them upside down and all the excess oil will go to the back of the tube.

If you're going the non toxic route, Rublev's Mixing White and Lithopone are good mixing whites that don't have the embrittling zinc oxide. They also have an array of lead based whites, as well as some other lead based historical hues.

I just purchased this set and found that many of the tubes had hardened at the top and I had to pierce through the solids to get to the paint. The colors seem good, but they don't layer well. They do mix well enough. I would use them as a final layer in spots. Doing a whole painting with them, only, was challenging. As you said, it was a bit oily.

Is oxgall absent in mijello watercolors?

Hi! I arrived at your channel looking for videos of Charvin oils. Do you like them? It looks that all of them leak some oil, I don't like that, although they say it is not a sign of bad quality... Regarding Old Holland titanium white, I find it yellows badly. I did a test chart comparing several brands of oil paint and actually all the ones containing linseed oil yellowed (darkened) to some degree. Now only use whites containing poppy or safflower oil.

This was a really well executed benchmark test for mass-tone and covering power, and we thought the commentary on the paint body was excellent. Utrecht Art Supplies still crafts paint at the same Brooklyn workshop as before we partnered with them, using the same formulas, along with some important new collections like Cadmium Free Oil Colors. The Utrecht team did ask us to explain something about the philosophy behind the formulas, and why some colors develop a bead of unbound oil at the top of the tube. We think the best place for modifications to be applied is on the artist's palette, so Utrecht has traditionally been really conservative where paint components other than pigment and oil are concerned. When paint settles in storage, the pigment will shed a little oil, unless an additive like aluminum stearate is included to bind it up. (A few brands hold finished paint to settle before tubing in order to reduce oil shed in the tube, but it's an expensive measure that results in a high cost for the artist.) Excessive use of stearates can make the paint more dull and dry in appearance, especially in lower priced paints where it's used as a filler, to stretch a small amount of pigment. A little oil at the top of the tube indicates that fillers are not present, and that the paint is in good condition (not oxidized in the tube). As other comments have indicated, massaging the tube to reintroduce the oil or blotting the first dollop on paper are effective techniques.

Granulation.

Good vid 😁 Just starting off in pastels. I bought a limited range of colours, soft by Unison and hard (very hard!) by Cretacolor, plus something in between (Inscribe). I noticed with the hard pastels that it was quite difficult to make a worthwhile mark (on pastelmat) and then noticed that they appear to have a shiny coating straight out of the box. They were easier to use with that coating removed. Is that the norm for hard pastels, or did I buy a particularly cheap brand? Thanks, and subscribed 😊

Thank you for your thorough report-you addressed all my concerns about their color fastness, especially when used as a bottom layer. I, too, purchased Mungyo semi hard brand to broaden color choice and love the feel.

How long before varnishing an oil painting? THANKS

Thank's a lot, and just let me tell you that you are nice and pretty.

I got Gamvar Satin and after being completely dried for 48 hours it remains tacky..I applied the thinnest layer possible, reduced it with Gamsol, but nothing helps. Any advice?

Some pigments require more oil than others. Also, one must remember that the pigment is in suspension in the oil (it is not disolved in it!!!); therefore, they will separate if left too long on the shelves, and a bunch of oil will come out when first squeezed. This is actually a good sign, as it shows that there is no suspension agent in the paint, meaning that the tube contains more pigment. Just let the excess oil soak into some paper towelling-it takes more oil to grind a pigment than to bind it. Oil paints are complicated.

One thing that might have happened is that it’s oily cause sometimes the oil separates from the ping and when you get an old tube or if your colors sit in the tube for a long time they will separate

Who’s. Thank you so much for explaining and showing me the difference. I’m in love with hard pastels. Can you put soft over hard pastels? Can you put pastels over dried oil paints. I love what happens. But is it sound. How do I preserve them on canvas. Ordinary varnish. Help if you can.