Видео

what problems did you encounter ?

@@CNCTinker I needed one thing, bro, PATIENCE. It is done good!, subscribing!

I took a normal nozzle and drilled it with a 1.5 bit, then whiggled the bit a little to increase it a bit more checking it with a caliper, it was close to 1.75 but not quite exact since I didnt have a 1.75 bit

the point of the plugin is not to store the value, and calculate it on the spot so its as exact as possible. you should add z_calibrate to your start macro. it sets the offset to that value, but is valid only for the current klipper session until you restart.

@@CNCTinker thank you.

Someone suggested to use the Voron Initial Startup Guide, and it helped. It has excellent photos to show what to do for different scenario. I'm able to set the origin for Ender6 at Front Left corner with the endstops at Rear Right corner

yes its ok

yes its different :) the a4988 doesnt have an Uart interface. you can use those no problem, just remove the uart section from the config and manually set the pins low high for the number of microsteps you want.

@@CNCTinker and where I can connect the reset of the a4988 driver to? is it in GPIO pin 3 same as uart?

reset you connect to sleep, its next to it. have a look on this page: www.pololu.com/product/1182

did you set the value of the uart on the tmc controller by gnd, vcc 0,1,2 or 3 and the same in klipper ? also make sure there is power on vin on the tmc before connecting the pico if you power it by usb

or maybe you dont have a tmc connected to the x and one set in klipper config, if you want to test with just one, remove the config sections for the others or it will complain it cant communicate with them

yes I have a video with it and link to files in the description: ruclips.net/video/41KXDCBFr-c/видео.html

just download and install nikon webcam utility: downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/products/548/Webcam_Utility.html

Bill of materials: -perfboard 12x18cm -4/5 stepper drivers - I use tmc2209 -4/5 capacitors for the drivers: 50v 100uF - 4 x40 Pin Straight Female Single Row Pin header strip, +1 as backup maybe you break one and they are dirt cheap: 2x20pins for mcu, (2x8pins per driver chips +1x4pins for motor connector to the driver) multiplied with number for steppers 4 or 5, 4 x 3pins for MOSFETS to drive 2 fans and 2 heaters -2 x Hall magnetic sensor module KY-003 for endstops - 1x40 pins single raw male: 2x2 pins for temperature sensors connectors, 2x2pins for fans connectors, 3x3pins endstops connectors -1 x LM2596-ADJ 5v DC-DC converter -4 x mosferts P16NF06L (buy 2-3 extra in cause you burn one or two, they are cheap) or any MOSTFET with similar specs -3 x 2pin screw terminal block: 1 for main power 12/24v, 2 for heaters: bed and head -resistors: 2 x 470ohm for temperature sensors, (1kohm + 100kohm)x4 for the mosfets

Thank you very much

thanks! yes I have check my other videos - I have one with the diagram, you can find it in that video description ruclips.net/video/41KXDCBFr-c/видео.html

@CNCTinker I have seen it, thanks very much. I will start this project soon and keep you updated

Hi, not sure about the colors as they might be different from maker to maker, but the way you connect is like this: you have two connectors one with 3 wires that you plug into the z-min, make sure it has the jumper next to it set for 5v not vin(12-24) that is middle pin and one marked as 5v - also check the gnd,v and sig on connector and board. second connector is made of 2 wires that is the servo, and you conect it to 5v and gnd. I see there are some free pins next to the esp32. Also google Fysect E4 github where you can find in the images section, a picture called e4--pin--2 with the polarities marked. hope it helps.

​@@CNCTinker Hi, thanks for the answer! So as you said my BLTouch has a 3-pin connector and a 2-pin connector. The 3-pin connector has green, yellow and red cables. Now, from what I learned the red is 5v and the green is GND, while the yellow one is for PWM signal. The 2-pin connector has white and black cables that should be used just for homing, as a normal trigger, is this right? Now, when I connected the original Z-endstop trigger from my Ender 3 (which is just a momentary button) to the Z-MIN plug on the Fysetc E4 I connected the cables to SIG and GND leaving the 5V unplugged and it worked just well for homing the Z-axis... so are you sure that SIG is for PWM and the white and black should be connected to 5v? I'm not understanding cause I'm totally new to this and I'm going crazy with the code so hopefully you can give me some advice, thank you🙏 P.S.: yes I jumpered the V-Zmin to 5V instead of Vin.

yes you are right, sorry I didnt check the wiring of the bl-touch. the white and black are z-min and gnd and the 3 wires are gnd +5v servo.

ok so I took another look at the motherboard schematic, and the z connector is made for an inductive sensor. there is no way to connect the bl-touch without soldering some wires to the board.

maybe you could connect the servo pin to sda or scl and change the settings file for the board. But I am not sure it will work as I dont know how the bl touch used the servo pin.

sure you can use a separate power supply, but it is cheaper like this and you only lose maybe a minute or so of faster heating

@@CNCTinker i solved this problem by extra power. I have so many used power in depo never get chance to use them. Because the first solution for me was that. But you are right the cheaper is best solution. :)

you can set it in the menu to trigger between 1 and 63 amps, though I wouldn't recommend to use this above 40 amps, as its not a well known brand and at that much current you risk to set something on fire

How to reset to factory settings??

Press arrow up + arrow down together for 3 seconds, and the LED will be off for 1 second, indicating that the default parameter value of restoring factory settings is completed

I dont remember exactly what I used, but PET has a melting / printing point of around 260-260, so I think something like 220 should do it, its quite easy to adjust on the spot. I stopped doing it though because of the smell, if you have some outdoor space its fine, but indoors its not worth it. It was printing fine with this filament but same problem with the smell when you print as well

Yes you can

debian

you probably played around with the options, do this: get a clean copy - git clone github.com/Klipper3d/klipper, make menuconfig - and only change architecture to - rp2040, then press Q for exit and save, then make. and it will generate the uf2 file, I have done it many times.

@@CNCTinker it was because i had bootloader selected, need no bootloader for klipper.uf2. :D

yes its the one you can see in the video, its my main board with the stepper controllers, temps, heaters, endstops. I dont use a separate rpi 4 although I have one, I just use my laptop with linux instead of the rpi 4. usually people run klipper off and rpi 4 that connects via usb to this controller board. I use a laptop instead of the rpi 4.

i have read so much forums that says it's not capable of running 3d printer firmware

it depends on the firmware. marlin runs on small mcu-s like the arduido, or esp32. it could run of this as well but its not suported last time I checked. klipper on the other hand need a full fledged os. so it need a pc with linux, people usually use rpi3 or 4 cause they are compact. problem is rpi3 or 4 have just a few hw connections around 12. for steppers temps heaters etc you need like 20 so you use a separate mcu and board, it could be a pico like me, arduino anything with more pins and you connect this to the other one.

i got it bro now thanks alot I learnt new thing from u I can use it on a dead phone now i don't even need pc

@theflamecoreguy7929 well a phone it is a small pc :) it runs an os, should have said any gadget cause you could even install a custom os on a router and run it on that. what phone and os did you use ?

I have in the description a link to github where you can find high resolution image

@@CNCTinker I followed the link and the image resolution is low.

ok then you can install EasyEDA, its free, and use the project file from the github,, you will have unlimited zoom

@@CNCTinker Raspberry Pi power and stepper motor logic (VDD) from USB or external source?

I use the power from the usb connector of the Pi, it doesnt use much, around 35ma. I did add a dc-dc converter 5v for the servo cause that uses more current, so I should power all from that

I had no issue with it, but you can use solid solder traces, or a fatter wire. the distance is not big, I dont remember the gauge of the wire but its a similar size with the wire that comes with the heater

yes 4.7k its kinda standard with these 100k thermistors and 3.3v adc. It must correspond with what you set in the firwmare or it will give wrong temp. try to measure the voltage on the thermistor and check with a datasheet of the thermistor to what temp it corresponds, and what the firmware reports to find if the error is from the circuit or firmware.

@@CNCTinker Solved the problem. For WeAct rp2040 and similar boards, it is necessary to solder the VREF jumper. In order to use the ADC reference voltage from the main power supply of the 3.3v board.

sorry for the late replay, comment went to spam because of the marlin version with points, maybe try to keep pressed the boot button while connecting, some board miss a capacitor

thank you! 4.7k resistor. its what most firmwars use as default to calculate the temperture

they are not easy to build from scratch with no functional 3d printer to make parts, I wanted to make one without using another 3d printer like most people do

@@CNCTinker so can we use micro SD card to print, just like marlin, because we can't just attach laptop whole time. In marlin with Arduino mega and micro SD card module required, as I can see you used just one pi pico is there any some special requirement for klipper like pi 4 or 5 to just print using micro SD card.

yes most people use a raspbery pi 4 or 5, instead of a laptop. you dont need an sd card as with marlin, since the raspbbery pi its a computer with s and storage, you just send the file to it.

@@CNCTinker pi 4 is expensive, can we have cheaper options

Orange Pi 3 LTS its a bit cheaper, or use an old laptop/pc if you have one. even a 10 year old laptop will run faster then a pi if you want cheap

no ide required, check my klipper linux install video. you download klipper from github, open a cmd and type make menuconfig, select rp2040 as the cpu then make and copy out/klipper.uf2 to rp2040 - if its new it shows as storage. that is all. also check www.klipper3d.org/Installation.html you also need for this either a rasp pi running linux, or a virtual machine running linux on your laptop/pc. klipper doesnt work on windows, and last time I checked rp2040 is not supported by marlin

it actually charges even when its cloudy and you dont see the sun

I have a newer video with the schematic that also has link in the description, check my other videos