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😂 I’m now a subscriber

Painful, too watch... Poorly done. Thanks

Thanks.

Maybe replace electrical connector pigtail? I am dealing with same situation…..

I fixed my messed up linkage today using your video, thanks so much from a grateful Irish man !!

Same issue here, 2001 Sport. Zero oil pressure when hot. The other day I removed the oil filter adapter and plumbed it straight to the block using the 1" nut and threaded hollow bolt in the adapters configuration. 40psi when running, 20 when hot and idling. We'll see how it goes. WIX 51348 or it's equivalent. It was a bear to crack that torx bolt loose.....

Year and transfer case model always helps.

I have a 2000 jeep wrangler and my oil pressure drops when reaching normal temp. I've replaced the oil sensor with no change. Today, I tested it with a pressure gauge and it was going to almost zero pressure when reaching normal temp. So I'm going to try and clean out the hole where the oil temp sensor goes and if that doesn't work I'm going to use a thicker oil before doing any major work on the engine because other than that it's driving nice with no knocking or lifter noise. Hopefully this works!

Anyone put a mech gauge for oil pressure?...i just have the stupid L and H cluster...dont have issues with presssure until i get to change time and its just slow building it and causes it to stumble...im just curious what the pressure is

I feel your pain I'm having the same problem on a brand new rebuild on 3500 miles. 2000 jeep Cherokee

Test pipes are for sale online. Looks just like a cat but its a straight through pipe inside. As long as you dont have emissions in your state and just a safety inspection, it should pass

Have u winched with this bumper before?

20w50 drive it till it knocks

You are lucky that you can turn your car off

my 92 did that and my 01 does it too its a jeep 4.0 L thing

Change Oil pump bro

Go with 15w40 rottela Oil filter replacement Fixed this point im my 2004 Laredo 4.0

replace the main and rod bearings you can do this with the engine still in the jeep. im not a mechanic and i did it. remove the oil pan to gain access to the bearings normal oil pressuer for over a year for me with no issues

Don’t forget to paint a coat on the exposed raw metal from drilling! That way it won’t rust

Man I don't know how to message people through this but I'm having the same issue I replace my oil pump and the sensor and I'm still getting the same thing let me know if you found a solution

Did u reset the ecu?

how does it run years later

mine if the temp was below 210 it's good and when it reaches 210 the oil pressure goes down and it goes up to 20psi only when riding.

So what wound up being the problem?

put a real oil pressure gauge on it. These other gages are garbage. Notice if you hear valve or lifter noise. Jeeps 232 258 4.0 don't have high oil pressure. It it is at 12 lb. idle and under 35 at 45 consider Main Bearings. Beware on CJ's to look on the boss at the oil filter for any stamped info. Don't assume the bearings are standard and mic and check with platigauge. on a dry journal. should be 1to2 1000 clearance typically. Cam bearing require head removal. Have it reworked while off. Replace cam and lifters if worn badly. Note the valves if wornr afe not adjustable much. so pay attention to gasket thickness for the head. If cam lobes ard not worn and lifter are not worn thats fine. Be sure to put the lifter and push rods back in the exact order the were upon removal it you can reuse em. I think number 3 main is the thrust bearing. If done in jeep make sure the oil holes align with the bearings. The rear main while loose needs the top half of the rear main seal pushed out this is no easy task loosen the mains a little to release some pressure on the upper rear main seal. Do Not drive a hard metal too to drive seal around. I have made a copper wire puller and a flexible drive tool to aid in removal oil the new one Beware cuttng the length of the rear seal. Front seal just drives in the Timing chain cover housing. Lifter and head need removal to replace cam and bearings. Check oil pump. Try 10w40 never use quaker state or you will get tons of carbon inside the block. If the oil pressure is 15 and no knocks or clicks at warmed up idle it is fine. Do Not Use Thick Oil Addatives. They will raise oil pressure at the gauge as your bearings burn up. heavy oil is not a solution. 10 40 should be it. I ran CJ 5 232 n 258 for over 250k and never had any issues.

You must get like 10mpg now

Guess I'm going to moms house to. Thanks for the info.

Save yourself time & cut ALL that crap off!! Install a AZZY SHIFTER in under 45 min.!

didn't see it say no bus, didn't see the cluster turned on after "cleaning it". But did hear 3 minutes about dropping screws into the dash

This guy doesn’t know how to wipe his own ass let alone turn a wrench smh

thanks for the video. I have a 98 zj and the linkage was so far off when I went in netural it said I was in 4 low. All I did was throw it in netural, loosed the bolt on the linkage. Went into the cab pulled it all the way back to 4 low. Tighted the bolt and now it works like a charm. Really nice for it to work now because before when I threw it in 4 low all it would do is grind.

🙀😱

I feel for you yeah well maybe the crank seals are gone or you're losing pressure there real rear main seal be of any leaks how about with a can of some sort of seals in that motor

Good job. Thanks again.

So I bet you will advise having some bottled water close by for such emergencies!

Don’t cut yourself short. You are doing a better job than I could ever do. I appreciate your instructions.

What welder did you use for this project

When you did the main bearings in the jeep did you remove the crank? Or did you slip the bearings in? Very interested, my bearings looked good when I checked them but still bad pressure at hot idle.

I'm having the same issue with an 01 wj 4.0 196k. Previous owners neglected it of oil changes and had lots of sludge buildup.. Replaced the cylinder head, rockers, pushrods and lifters, gaskets, new heater core and water pump and thermostat. Did not remove timing cover whatsoever. New oil pump and sensor. Thoroughly cleaned oil pan and valve cover in a parts washer at my workplace. Did my best to clean galleys to sensor and to pump as well. Confirmed sensor works properly by swapping the sensor with the one in my lifted 4.0 that has 40+psi of oil pressure. Both sensors read the same in both vehicles. Have put two oil pumps in it thinking the high volume one was faulty. Running into exact same issue. Pulled rod and main bearings off and they look brand new. Cylinders still show cross hatching. Have done 2 oil flushes and 3 oil changes and driven a total of 200-300 miles since first startup. Weird thing is there is almost no ticking or knocking sounds like the cleanest running 4.0 I've heard that wasn't just built at a shop. Started to assume cam bearings. Noticed a decent amount of wear on the cam lobes themselves also. Any help or advise is appreciated!

Lets go brandon

Have the same setup on my 1997. Thrush Welded and no cat (mine only had one.) Sounds good but wish it was a bit louder so may need to split into duals later.

You need to put it in park

Love your headliner!

Hey, I have a problem with my 97 xj after driving it for about 30-45 minutes my oil light comes on whenever I come to a complete stop. The light turns off once i start driving and shift into 2nd gear.. but eventually comes back on when stopping. Any help is appreciated, thanks

Hell of a shop you've got there

Why didn't they account for the radiator line in the design?

My 2002 Grand Cherokee, with only 100k miles, had this problem. Dropped the pan to change the oil sending unit, and found out that my rod bearings are completely destroyed.

How did it hold up

Now that Ive seen this, Im not 100% sure Im going with this bumper now.

Hey guys I have owned three jeeps with the 4.0. One of them had no problem with low oil pressure because it was in great condition compared to the other two. The other two I did replace the oil pump but while you have the oil pan off replace the rod bearings. That will help with the situation immensely. Unfortunately somebody in the life of the vehicle did not change the oil and this is the reason for this situation. Make sure you change your oil on time.