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Looks like a decent kit i may invest in one

Another cracking build. Painting by numbers? I know the manufacturers like Airfix and Tamya purport to have researched the exact colour used, but it’s all compromise or their range of colours would be infinite, and you do find slight differences in the tones and hues between different manufacturers for the same supposed colour, so no worries in using what you have in your box. It also depends on the time of day and the light, colours first thing in the morning look different late in the afternoon. And who’s to say it wasn’t painted by a myopic painter suffering from protanopia and deuteranopia, but I wouldn’t get in a car with him. Bring on part 2 "cùm iad a’ tighinn".

Always good to break out every now and then.

Great build, like the LEDs they add much more to the build!

Well done H!! Looks great, loving the weathering and mottling, the LEDs finish it off, keep up the great work! 😊👍

Wow! The secret is out, we now know why a lot of RAF officers walk that peculiar way, and I thought it was due to tight undies! 😆😆 I saw Sea Harriers in action for real back in 82, fantastic aircraft flown by some of the best pilots on the planet. Love this build, and the use of the LED with such effect, really sets this build off superbly. 👌👌Well done "cùm iad a’ tighinn".

I believe because of the bubbles in the airbrush cup, that means not enough thinner or low air pressure. Maybe not a big enough needle.

In anticipation 🙃

Exciting!

Last time I spent a night in a tent was back in the eighties (1980’s before any derogatory comments), like my comfort to much. Notice no Bangers in a Macaroni sauce 🤣🤣"cùm iad a’ tighinn"

What a laugh, for the shear idea, execution and fun factor I would give it 20 out of 10 mate. Who amongst us hasn't wanted their model to fly! Did something similar, with a wire across Peel Green Road back in the 60's, second story of Russel’s house to the first story of Michael’s flew a Lancaster across (unpowered), well say across, got stuck halfway, it was ok till a double decker took the wire and the Lancaster, we scarpered and hid for a few hours down Robbie’s Brook, till we got hungry. Great entertainment, great build, great memory jogger, well done. "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

That's the sort of thing I wanted to do as a teenager, I'm glad it's possible! The test flight went very well, but the landing was unfortunate.

It’s a Stahlhelm with legs and an ‘ed?? Well done to you Sir and to your sister for caring. I hope the old lass was happy and pleased with the results of your labour. Well done.

Ah, the flying bedstead, flown in a few of them, cracking chopper. Centre of the floor has a hatch that opens for winching operations, Does the model show this or have that option? Just think twin rotors, led’s and an operating winch! Anyway let’s not get ahead of ourselves, an hour and a half of great entertainment, great build, well done. "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

Well done for taking the job on in the first place! I hope the client was happy with the result. Colour-matching is something I find very frustrating too!

A motorised Chinook with Lights ! 😯 Very Impressive 👏... It looks Great !....Very nice work all round 👍 🍻

Enjoyed the build. I think I'll add one of these to my stash as I find reconnaisance aircraft interesting. Up until now I've been using a combination of tamiya paint aerosols and brush painting for my builds but I think the next major step will be to get an airbrush. How do you find airbrushing? Presumably it's a game changer although I guess it has it's challenges.

All Rebel Alliance craft need to be dirty! It looks good and the LEDs work really well. I've built the Revell Land Rover and E-type and both go together extremely well. The only problem is that the parts for any sub-assembly are scattered at random over several sprues, which is most annoying! I'm currently building three Italeri kits- the fit varies between good and doesn't, plus some of the part numbers in the instructions don't match up with the numbers on the sprues. It's all good fun.

A true crossing to the dark side for you, a Revell kit!!! Covered in Flash, Molly Weir being too enthusiastic with the old mop and bucket again or was it the saviour of the universe (sorry). Watching this and the fit of the parts has me a little worried as I have bought as a Christmas present the Revell Millennium Falcon for my grandson and he is just beginning his modelling adventure, maybe some grandad grandson time needed. Old school panel lines, I have acquired 2B and 4B pencils over time for exactly this, bit softer leaves a bit more graphite on the model and can be used for shading on the panels as well, no cleaning of brushes either. Sorry to contradict but orange is a secondary colour 🙃. One must always be on guard for Murphy’s Law. Another cracking build and video though. May the Force be with you to, "cùm iad a’ tighinn" PS you have one infectious laugh 😆😆

Very nice build, well done!👍👍

Fantastic job. I realise I have lots to learn coming back to the hobby.😊

Scalpel fettling has to be the quote of this build, then Boom up pops Michael Elphick, I do like your videos, not just for the fantastic builds (this being no exception), but for the crack makes me smile 😆. Both the LED’s turned out superb effects, but for me it must be what do you call them, oh yes ejector seat handles. Poor Mr Pilot suffers the ignominious fate of being tossed in the corner! Very entertaining and another cracking build "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

They were not very good at the real ones, either. There was not enough time to do them very well.

It's quite alright if invasion stripes are not perfectly spaced and perfectly straight. In real life, they were painted rather hastily with anything that was available, so the ground crews didn't really care about them being perfect.

those invasion stripe are perfect mate, in real life they were rushed so they were not always perfect so its fine if they are not perfect as it make model look for realistic

Making stuff... out of... well nowt, loved watching you scratch building out of a bag of bits, in a cupboard under the stairs. Then distressing your holes with your handy Leatherman. Sniffing the old ‘erbs’ (culinary of course) prior to use. Joking aside fantastic build, I have two M40’s and a Lee/Grant in plastic bags in very similar condition, oh what to do. Very entertaining "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

Another cracking build Paul, love the half tree masking, and the spitfire bottle top pure genius. Now your ‘erbs’ for grass anything in particular oregano, marjoram, thyme? Your display stand must smell great. Special thanks to Dean or we wouldn’t have this fantastic weekly entertainment. Keep the good fight mate. "cùm iad a’ tighinn" PS not commented on the last few builds as I have been on holiday, and typing on my phone is a pain.

Another nice build! I did one of these a year or two ago- I used the kit transfers/decals for the stripes, which went on surprisingly well. Masking to paint stripes on a tapered fuselage is always going to be tricky! You might find SteamGeezer's Rebel Alliance Tomahawk video useful from about 21 minutes onwards, he shows how to get the stripes parallel & equal.

Had fun watching thanks HP

Very nice! Invasion stripes were hand painted so they must not be perfect!

The 'aboutthatmuch' and 'that'lldo' are very useful units of measurement. I use them often myself! I like the way you did the road and the smoke effect too. For a pound, and nearly all the bits, it's turned into quite a nice little diorama- well done!

Is this a Canadian colour scheme?

I went a couple of years ago- there's so much stuff there! An amazing place.

really enjoyed that FAB

That's a very interesting modification! I built a couple of these Airfix Hurricanes- they do go together very well, don't they?

Nice build, but you should remove the X-shaped plastic between the outer wing struts. It is sprue, not structure.

I’ve got a few photos from ww2 and old lady gave me from her departed husbands album, he was a ww2 North Atlantic submarine hunter in a few different aircraft based in Cornwall, she gave some of captured Luftwaffe air craft in RAF livery , that’d make a change 👍

Another nice build! I've done a few biplane builds using SteamGeezer's rigging method and not had any serious problems. On some aircraft, the rigging goes between the struts rather than between the wings, which means you can leave the top wing off (having made sure that the struts are glued securely in the right places!), which makes things a lot easier. It's not always possible though. Turnbuckles and patience are the secret!

well done you !!!! terrific 😊

Hi Paul, great result for your first attempt at rigging 👏It's fiddly and tedious at times, but it adds so much authenticity to a bi-plane model 👍. You'll find there are a quite a few rigging materials out there : E.Z. Line and Uichi rigging thread are a couple that come to mind. I've also had respectable results rigging with stretched sprue cut into appropriate lengths and straightened lengths of thin wire. Attaching the rigging ( If you are rigging with some kind of Thread ) to the underside of the top wing before mounting the wing can also make the job a little less stressful. All on all a lovely result with that little Gladiator 🤩

Cracking build Paul and very informative. Love the wire turnbuckles, what gauge of fishing line, if that’s what you used for the rigging? In the past it’s been waxed cotton I have used, then three weeks later yards of dust attached itself to the wax, do like the plastic line. "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Thursday, 4 July, 2024) (ERROR CORRECTED) (UPDATED EXTENSIVELY) Hello, Mr. Paul. Round 22.00, you seem to have quite the difficulty affixing a transparency into place on the dorsal fuselage aft of where the dorsal turret will go. My suggestion would be for you to find a modest length (round 2 or 3 cm) of very slender (1 mm x 1 mm would be my estimation; however, one must be there to take the measure, as precision is critical for exact fit) strip stock (e.g., Evergreen, Plastruct) [my suggestion would be for you to find a modest length of very slender strip stock], affixing it along the interior of the opening just 1 mm or so below the very edge of the opening, to create a sort of two-sided shim, or perhaps a framework upon which one can seat the clear part; as with the two earlier pieces, one also must allow precisely for the thickness of the transparency, so that it fits into place flush with its surrounding fuselage. Once securely in place and dried, one must colour them black with a permanent ink marker (one cannot use paint, for it will deny glue) to diminish their presence. At 27:20, you mention painting the fuselage as being easier without the wings affixed into place. I cannot be certain, but at the factory, they paint much as you plan, except for the final camouflage (or if natural metal, a clear coat to forestall metal oxidisation). Round 50:00, you seem to be wrestling with your decidedly troublesome main landing gear. This brings to mind: how would one proceed to build the model in-flight, installing the main landing gear, including the tail wheel, raised and stowed, the crew figurines in their assigned combat stations, the cowl flaps closed, the control surfaces in their positions to commence an easy, thirty-degree right turn and a shallow climb? I have been unable to determine which defensive gun arrangement your model has at its far aft end (the only direct look your video provides us is at 31:47-and then for just a few scant seconds, with the blur of quick movement denying us any clarity of focus); either the earlier so-called “stinger tail” design, or the later Cheyenne tail (named for its manufacturer’s location: Cheyenne, Wyoming, USA), a partial rotating sphere the gunner controlled for a rather better field of fire. Please clarify, if you would. Overall, an enviably capable job of it, mate! Now show us your builds of the Hong Kong Models kits of the Boeing B17G Flying Fortress USAAF Four-Engine Heavy Bomber in 1:32nd-scale, and in 1:48th-scale; these come in the early “stinger tail” and late-war, with the Cheyenne tail. In my project, my ambition (eventually) is to build these (and other models in ascending scales; or descending sizes-I am poor at maths!) airborne, with figurines to represent the crew as they man their combat posts, small electric motors to spin the propellers, LEDs to illuminate the crew’s duty stations, robust internal bracing to accept the external suspension arrangement and electrical circuitry, etc. Additionally, models in 1:64th-scale (two of the Lindberg kit, one breaking up in a fierce explosion), two in 1:72nd-scale (for the B-17G, the Airfix kit; in a similar project of the B-17F, the Revell AG kit); three replicas in 1:100th-scale; several in 1:144th-scale; a half-dozen or more in 1:200th-scale (it may have been in 1:240th-scale). An ambitious proposal. I frankly doubt my skill in the overall scope of it, especially in the non-standard internal arrangements (electrical, figurines, internal bracing, etc.). The late-war B-17s, all natural metal to save weight, would have little wear, dirt, etc. A number of North American P-51D/K Mustang USAAF Fighters would run escort. Of these latter aircraft, I would like to incorporate the newer 1:24th-scale and 1:32nd-scale models; my hunch is that these would over-complicate the scene. One could include a few, to offset the Messerschmitt Bf-109 and Focke Wulf FW-190 Luftwaffe Fighters. Even including these swift, agile defenders of Germany’s skies requires a bit of thought. If the fearsome heavy anti-aircraft batteries of the Wehrmacht’s experienced artillery regiments were blazing away, with many score black explosions all round, the enemy fighters would be well out of view, though yet close to hand to await their turn. I have similar ideas with the B-17F; these models are grittier, with some showing more battle damage. Another centres round the Hobby Boss kits in 1:32nd-scale and 1:48th-scale of the Consolidated B-24D Liberator USAAF Four-Engine Heavy Bomber, in Desert Sand over Neutral Grey, the desert camouflage of the Mediterranean Theater of Operations (MTO); these (and others) would represent those valiant men who flew at just 250 feet above the deck as they stormed over the sprawling refineries and oilfields of Ploiești (Romanian orthography, formerly spelt Ploești), Romania. In this forced perspective display, I also would add at the base a rather substantial Z-gauge (1:200th-scale) model railroad layout set along a portion of a refinery, its storage tanks, etc., with several lines of train tracks, one bearing generally to the northwest, the other toward the east; great, black explosions here and there would glow red, yellow, orange, scarlet. As I contemplate this, one might not need such a tiny scale/gauge for the setting below. The altitude of just 250 feet above ground-from what I can recall of my reading of the Ploiești air-raids, the height that the USAAF commanding officer of the wing had set, in his effort to 1) achieve surprise (at first succeeding, though the consequences of catching a foe unawares are fleeting) and 2) to avoid the Wehrmacht’s heavier anti-aircraft batteries (the seasoned gunnery officers and their crews quickly compensated with point blank fire)-would be less than eight feet in 1:32nd scale, so objects from the bomber crews’ perspective would not look so small as I initially had estimated; one might be able to use HO-gauge (1:87nd-scale) or even S-gauge (1:64th-scale) model train layout set-pieces. I have plenty of ideas that, if executed well, ought to merit display in museums.

What do they say go big or go home? It’s a trend that many manufactures are following of not supplying pilots. I seem to remember when I last made the B17 you had at least the pilot and co-pilot. Like the idea of leaving the wings off to get the glazing done. Will be trying your method of masking the glazing now the old shakes have taken over, no longer able to do paint the glazing free hand. Another cracking build mate, the light sets it of beautifully, "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

It looks good to me! I can't recall building a B17 as a young lad though I started a 1/48 one some years ago although I never finished it. Some Glenn Miller would have been the ideal accompaniment to this, it's a shame about the copyright.

Oh Mate, where do I start? Sat here with a coffee mug in one hand and a morning coffee biscuit in the other in anticipation. "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

I hope it all goes smoothly.

Looks good Paul, another fine build. Like others I've never heard of Immelman kits before, you've certainly done justice to this one mate. “cùm iad a’ tighinn”

It looks good. I've never heard of Immelman kits before, but this one's a good recommendation for them. I've built some very old kits from the 50s and 60s, the decals were very yellow and usually fell apart, so I scanned them, eliminated the yellowing and printed them, which worked very well. There's a phone app called Hobby Color Converter which I've found extremely useful as I use mostly Tamiya acrylics and it covers most modern paint manufacturers. Humbrol changed their paint numbers so very old Airfix kits can be a problem!

Great result with the Stuka "H" 👏. I really like building older kits. I know many folk don't like " Raised Detail " but I don't really mind them. I like to subtly highlight raised rivets by giving them a light rub with a H.B. Pencil to bring out the detail. What ever your preference you've certainly done Justice to this old Kit. 👍

Hi Paul, lovely work on the mustang and love the motorised Prop. Also nice job on the pilot. Just a suggestion, but if you have any Tamiya panel line accent on hand, you can give the pilot figure a light dab with it to bring out some of the finer details, particularly the facial features. Forgive me if you're already aware, but in regard to NMF finishes on Mustangs, only the fuselage was bare metal. the wings and tail planes had the rivets sanded flush and then painted in aluminium lacquer. ( something about enhancing the "Laminar Flow " of the wings ? ) You can also get a nice variation in tone from a single coat of "Silver " by masking off individual panels and applying different undercoats to those panels. i.e. Gloss / Matt Black, Gloss/ Matt White before applying the top coat. My " go to " paint for painted "Metal " surfaces Is Tamiya " Metallic Silver T.S. 83 Rattle can ( It can be decanted and used with an airbrush if you prefer.) It's a bit expensive - AU$ 26.00 a can here in Oz - but it's a very good product ! The instructions on the can tell you to apply the paint over a gloss black undercoat and not to apply a clear coat . This will give you a very shiny finish ( very close to a polished look ) that once properly cured is very robust and can be handled without damaging the finish. But if you go '"Rogue" like I did initially ( because I didn't read the instructions 😏 ) and just spray it on and coat it with clear afterwards, you will get a very nice approximation of a " natural " aluminium finish. And you can achieve tone variation by using different undercoats as mentioned above. Finally, in regards to the cost of R.C. aircraft, check out the "Eachine Mini Mustang " on Google. This is a fantastic little foam R.C. aircraft ( Approx 300mm wingspan.) It has throttle, aileron, elevator, rudder and trim control. 3 axis Gyro stabilisation with beginner, medium and expert settings. an "Aerobatic " button. and comes complete with the Radio Control transmitter , 2 or 3 batteries, charger , and a spare prop. All for around AU$ 120.00 ( what ever that converts to in Pounds ? ) delivered . The low mass of the aircraft makes it very survivable when you invariably have a mishap , and in " Begginer" mode is very easy for the novice pilot to come to grips with. I can't recommend it highly enough. Again, check out the various RUclips Videos about this aircraft out there. Apologies for the long winded comment and I hope I haven't come across as trying to " teach you to suck eggs " as that is surely not my intention. Looking forward to your future videos and wishing you great success with your Channel. 🍻 Dean.