Видео

Yep, vented my bathroom fan to the soffit and now condensation from hot showers is leaking back toward the house and coming out the weep holes in the vinyl siding.

I HAVE A LADY WHO IS EXTREMELY POOR HERE IN THE TOLRDO AREA THAT IM GOING TO ENCAPISILATE THE CRAWLSPACE FOR AND SHE CANT AFFORD TO DO IT WITH FOAM ,WITH THE FLOOR GOING TOBE SEALED WOULD IT BE OK TO SEAL THE CRACKS WITH CAN FOAM THEN USE BATT UNTIL SHE CAN GET THE MONEY . I CANT HELP HE ANYMORE ON COST BUT STILL WANT TO HELP OUT.....

Why don't people know what they are doing.

Blue board is a termite play ground!

Does the high loop need to be x amount of inches above the attachment to the disposal?

I completely understand this isn't ideal. Question, do you think leaving it there with a flap not a screen and sealing the soffit near there is better? Or up thru the roof? Ours is currently thru the roof which I cannot get up there to clean. I can get to the soffit. Thank you. (also seems to me the venting would work better not fighting more gravity)

The issue isn,t using fiberglass. It is HOW the work is done. It must lay flat and tight.

What a bunch of BS. I've been a general contractor in the northeast since 1978. If you cut your fiberglass lengthwise and set them horizontally they will stay snug forever. Keep a close eye on spray insulation. Within a couple of years people are going to stop using it

Better way than that is not build the house with this style of framing. I live in WISCONSIN and I have a full basement with 9 foot high ceilings. I do not have concrete basement walls. All my basement walls are made of 2x12 treated covered on the outside with 3/4 treated plywood all nailed together with stainless steel nails. Over the plywood is 10 mil poly covered with 1” foam board. My floor joist sit inside the foundation walls first floor sheeting goes all the way over the foundation walls. This gives me R 48 insulation on all the basement walls and R19 on all the first floor walls. I have no heat or A/C in the basement. It stays in the sixty’s year round in central Wisconsin. The basement walls have sealed poly covering the insulation with 1/2” OSB protection over the sheeting on the inside of the foundation. All of the sheeting has one coat of primer and two coats of oil based enamel to seal in the formaldehyde in the OSB. This has been the best and warmest basement I’ve ever had.

Retired contractor with 50+ years experience, mostly remodeling. Now I'm a building inspector and code consultant. Batts are not the problem here. The high level of moisture in the air is the problem. It is going to go somewhere. Mitigate the moisture and then use whatever you want for insulation.

Weep holes have to be drilled at the bottom of the blocks, behind the weep board

"Blue board" doesn't meet the Energy Conservation Code. You would need at least 4 inches of it in most area's of the US. Another Certified home inspector without construction knowledge? People, if you hire these inspectors, ALWAYS ask what practical construction experience they have. Why didn't this inspector explain the correct way to insulate that detail? "I can tell you it's wrong but I can't tell you the correct way"

If what you saying is true then fiberglass insulation in walls is also a waste of time. The first thing I noticed is that there is no tar/paper barrier on the fiberglass in the sill space. Wouldn’t that alleviate most of the moisture issue?

Did you insulate between the joists as well, if so what did you use, or did you just use the foam board on the walls and rim joists? Thank you

Not even a few weeks ago I removed insulation from the rim joist and found black mold

The bats are not the source of the problem. It is the dirt floor that was not properly covered allowing moisture to wick up from the earth causing a transfer of moisture . Crawl spaces are cheaper than basements but you still should lay down plastic and cover with a cement slab then also allowing cross ventilation to reduce moisture transfer . Also plastic and some sort of mud slab or at cheapest a super moisture barrier prevent also radon . Helped a old friend build a cabin near a swamp once I told him this he did not listen . He sold the cabin to some people a year and a half later the living room floor collapsed in and he was responsible for the costly repairs . He called me and the first thing we did was double plastic and installed a concrete slab installed 6 vents and also a humidity meter . The cabin has not had a problem since .

The black spots are mold. Another issue

I had fiberglass in my rim joist cavities and two vents to the outside. During Chicago winters, the crawlspace temperatures would get down into the mid 30's and I was afraid that the copper water lines down there would freeze. I closed off the two vents and sealed the rim joists with Foamular R10 rigid foam boards and Great Stuff. Now, the crawlspace stays an average of 63 degrees all year round. Such a great, inexpensive DIY project with great improvement in comfort.

Right on 👍 Great example.

Sir I am not going to say you are wrong . But you are also not right. See here is where your problem is you are inexperienced in multiple locations. Because building requirements in New York is different then Texas, and Texas is different then Florida, and Florida is different then California. You get my point. So what you do may work where you live but it's 100% wrong else where.

If you use fiberglass,use the kind with paper backing. It’s a vapor barrier. Paint the wood before insulating

I was with you right up till the spray foam.

There's no vapour barrier on the inside portion of the insulation batts - that's the problem...

Oh I missed crawl space where are the vents so it can breathe? If it had vents it would take care of a lot of moisture Im impressed with building inspectors there all experts after attending a class but I still haven't met one who actually built a home or worked in the industry.

I like how the codes completey seal up a home then HVAC recommends an air exchanger to bring fresh air experts right?

You forgot to mention rodents.They like to mill about in the pink fluffy stuff!

If you just stuff a large piece in there, for sure it's a problem. But if you cut and place neatly, it's not a problem.

I prefer the Pink Boards, because it is prettier. Blue board works just as good.

The problem is that warm moist air from the crawl space is following the laws of thermodynamics and is able to get past the fiberglass insulation to the cold condensing surface of your rim joist. This is why insulation on the exterior of homes is so important now.

how much weight can joists hold. Would you say is safe to put plywood and used the attic for storage ? I fear I might break a joists and damage the structure of the house bringing the whole house down! Even walking on joist and beams freaks me out since I’m 220lbs I don’t wanna break essential beams or joists Any help if greatly appreciated New home owner! Thank you!

Can't you do both? 🤷

This guy is an idiot

Exterior French drain will cost you 4 times more than the interior drain.

The Blocks and Concrete deteriorates because constant water is sitting against exterior blocks or concrete. Thats why walls cave in or deteriorate. Its best to fix the problem outside

Will I need something else on top of the blue foam like some fireproof material?

Find a company that will warranty their products for life if it doesn’t work or last 20 years from now.

That block was ruined long before the drain tile system was installed. This is another example of an inspector not knowing what he’s talking about.

Good advice, thank you

I feel like whoever did this, did not do weep holes as it should be done to relieve the pressure behind the walls. This is likely a bad install, not a bad method.

How do you fix the issue? I got new springs put on it. So they arent broken

This system was not done properly and good for you to use it for your video to prove your point. First off, you can’t have an exposed drain like that due to radon issues. Secondly, to relieve hydrostatic pressure on the walls, you can have weep holes to prevent water build up. And lastly it’s a lot more expensive to do an exterior waterproofing system than this, so a lot of homeowners resort to these. And tbh it works.

That perimeter waffle board also allows direct flow of radon into the basement. The drain tile sllows it to flow freely to the sump.

Was this a wood shake/shingle roof?

what size is that P trap set up its to be 2-1/2" mine is a 2".

I kept have water splash out from the P trap set up. This had no cap on top just the hose from the water softener backwash going in. He moved it to the main sewer pipe and drilled a hole at the top and put the hose in. No more water splashing. But now a year later my softener where the salt is as what appears to be dirt. Someone said stop using salt crystals and use pellets. But cold water smells really bad at some of our faucets. I reached out to the plumber and he insists its not the drain connection.

In the northern climate the old timers would always say to not insulate basement walls from inside. The push of frozen earth on the concrete or worse block walls causes cracks even bulging. Insulation should be buried outside down at least 2.5ft . You can see after a snow that the outside perimeter ground around the bldg will be thawed this shows the heat loss but what is more expensive heat loss or hiring a foundation repair firm. Food for thought

You better expect that if the family dog is a corgi, I'm going to be giving them extra treats and pets wether they like me or not. They're sweethearts

Man, don’t know if you noticed all the orbs on cam but there’s a lot of spirit activity going on down there. That house is definitely haunted!! Cable tv. . probably

What if there is a PVC pipe exiting the structure within the 3 ft but venting outside of the 3 ft. Would that still be in compliance?

Quick question, this adds an opening in the draining system. What device do you use to prevent sewage water from coming out there? A check valve?