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I believe I have 10mm spacers all around.

@@RascoeGarage Just fender rolling all around needed right? or did you need to do anything else to the fenders?

Thanks for watching! If I remember correctly you need to fold the seats down, remove the c pillars, remove the head rests and open the wing windows. You cannot remove it with the wing windows closed. Take your time getting all the clips loose as they break easily.

@@RascoeGarage Thanks a lot! I hope I succeed without breaking the C pillars, I'll try it this weekend.

Good luck man!

It wouldn’t allow me to post a short video on here so I could show you

Do you have two coolant reservoirs?

@@RascoeGarage yes but, now I have found it’s coming from a purple or out looks purple box it looks like a radiator piece between 2 hoses hooked up one on each side of it. The actual box is leaking.

I have a video and a picture but, once again it won’t let me post them

Anyway you can get a picture of it?

It might be possible but it’s easier to take them out. The real bummer is having to remove the rear section of the exhaust just to get to the downpipes.

@@RascoeGarage I have the p0036 code currently which is the bank 1 downstream o2 sensor, the left longer pipe, I feel like I can get to that one without having to go through the hassle of taking the downpipe off.

You might be able to get to that one. It’s been a while since I did this job I can’t remember if there was enough room to get the sensor out with the downpipe still in the car.

Thanks for watching! I believe you need to reset the service alert. I had to take mine into the dealer to replace the valve cover gasket and they reset the service alert for me. A mid level code reader should be able to clear it for you.

Thanks for watching! Yes, I did end up getting it fixed. It was a combination of a punctured fuel line on the pump inside the tank and a loose ground wire for the fuel pump. It took quite a while to narrow it down to those two things but I finally got it sorted out.

Thanks for watching. This video was my first time doing it. As long as you take your time it’s easy to do. All you need is a pump and vinegar and you are good to go. $500 is outrageous for that job.

Thanks for watching! Once the flush procedure is done you just turn it back on. No need to cycle.

Thanks for watching! In my case it was several issues. I ended up replacing everything fuel related before I finally discovered one of my fuel pump lines severed inside the tank and the fuel pump terminating ground wire was loose. Those two issues were causing intermittent fuel delivery triggering the code. However they both disguised themselves as other issues before I finally got to them. Good news now is I have a fully overhauled fuel delivery system.

Thanks for watching! I believe the plugs came with anti seize on them. If you are going to get a G05 do not get a 2019. The first model year had a bunch of electrical issues of which I experienced first hand. I own two other BMW’s and have never used the dielectric grease and they all run fine. I think it’s fine either way.

Thanks for watching! You do not need the vacuum fill tool but I recommend using. It helps you identify any leaks and it fills the system perfectly in one shot.

It’s easy to do and it’s instantly noticeable. I took the car out for a rip after I made the video and it ran great! It was about 100 degrees out as well.

Thanks for following the channel! That is a Vevor Rotary Welding Positioner 30KG. I got mine on Amazon or you can go direct to their website. Great piece of equipment for the price!

@RascoeGarage what speed setting are you welding at. I have the same one, but seems to spin too fast for tig.

@michaelgutierrez2377 I slowly move the speed dial until it starts spinning. I primarily weld 304 stainless 0.65 wall. I run my machine at 70amps and let it rip.

Primeweld 225

Thanks for watching!

I believe it’s 50000 miles is when the spark plug service is triggered

Hmm my 2019 40i hit 60,000 miles and still didnt trigger. Did you get a check engine indicator or notification in the system? Curious if you found out about the oil leak as well.

@@rnrnrkrk994 What version of idrive do you have currently

I think the dealership notified me that the 50000 mile service was do. I asked what it included and it was the spark plugs and brake fluid flush. I found out about the oil leak when I changed my spark plugs. Oil on top of the plugs is a strong indicator for valve cover gasket failure.

Not sure what version of idrive I have. I’d have to check.

No problem!

The bumper does not need to come off. You don’t even have to take the wheels off. Just need to remove the inner fender liner to get to the radiators to drain.

100% the intercooler failed. It was dumping coolant down the j pipe and leaked coolant all over the place. The stiffening plate caught all of it so it was hard to tell where the leak was.

@@RascoeGarage I feel it 👍🏻 I’m about to change out my main radiator and I was looking for that bleed procedure. You don’t happen to have that do you?

I do. There is a screenshot of the instructions in the this video. It’s straight from the itsa program

Thanks man! I need to make a new video with the exhaust system that I make now. Sounds even better!

So far no condensation on the x5

@@RascoeGarage i got in mine and these bmw dealers rip off customers so mich that makes bmw unreliable and not to keep anymore. They were asking me $6300 along with labor for one complete assembly of headlmap with single housing not laser. Its tough to maintain n keep track of what is going wrong. Cannot believe my rear axle differential seal wore out in 56000 miles.

@dm6368 dude our rear main seal was leaking and had to be replaced under 50k miles. Luckily it was under warranty or it would have been ridiculous

@@RascoeGarage under 50 sound horrible for a car thats expensive. I had third party warranty n they covered it with $200 deductible.

@dm6368 I had a slew of electrical issues as well that ended up being the sensor in the windshield that controls all the adaptive driving modes. A wire was broke and it required the whole windshield to be replaced

Good looking out! This is what happens when you teach yourself how to weld. 🤦🏻‍♂️

We make all our setups using 304. Haven’t had any issues thus far. Most shops make the downpipe instead of the rear and no one offered the full rear section. I think it’s easier and more cost effective to get a downpipe made opposed to an entire exhaust. If you’re interested let me know happy to make one for you.

No problem glad you found it helpful!

No problem! Hopefully your coil packs come off easier than mine. It was a battle to get a couple of them off.

By any chance have you had any of your software updates become stuck on the 3 stage of installation? I have been dealing with that for the last 6 months. All the other updates went through without any issues. My local dealer wants almost $300 to force it through which I think is crazy

@davek5529 I haven’t had any issues with updates. To be honest I haven’t done an update myself. I recently learned that if you hood down the volume button for 1 minute it resets the infotainment system. That might help. If not I would disconnect the negative battery cable and reset the computer then try doing the update again.

The sunroof delete uses the factory hardware. No drilling necessary. Everything lines up perfectly

They are good in the street just don’t drive in the rain. They are crazy sketch in the wet.

@@RascoeGarage night and day from nto5 right ?

@jayd1008 yes much better performance on the track.

Are saying you want to make a one piece header? Go 6 to 3 to 1? That would be a cool build for sure. You’d have to make 3 2 into 1 merges then go into your 3 into 1 merge. If you need stainless flanges to get your build going let me know I have 4 of them in stock.

Yes I can make them available for purchase. I have a shipment of 6 coming next week. How many do you need?

@@RascoeGarage id take 2 asap

@@JAH_FAB they are available for purchase on my website www.rascoegarage.com thanks for reaching out!

I will get my next batch this week and they should be available to ship at the end of the week.

@@RascoeGarage how much are they going for?

I ran close to 3-4 degrees when I took it to the track. No issues with tire wear. If the outside edge is getting beat up I’d try running more camber. What tire pressure are you running at cold prior to session and hot off a session?

@@RascoeGarage thanks for the feedback. I usually start off at ~30 F and end up somewhere ~38-39 F.

What tires are you running? That pressure is a bit high and may be part of the issue. I run Toyo R888R and start at 26-28 psi and get to 33-34 psi hot. Wear is good and grip is good. I think adding more camber and lowing your tire pressure could help.

@@RascoeGarage For now, I am on Michelin PS4S, but I did recently get a set of track-dedicated Cup 2s. I will give your setup a try, including the tire type possibly down the road. I appreciate you sharing your thoughts - much appreciated. I am just glad to know that frequently moving the camber plates around is a thing. I think that this will help me out tremendously for sure. Thanks again!

@michaelbetanzos6172 no worries man happy to help. One other thing to look into is getting a pyrometer to check your tire temps as well. When you come off a session stick the pyrometer on the inside, middle and outside of tire in the grooves if possible to get the best result. This will help you get your tire pressure and camber dialed in.

You still need them to work. I was getting a different error code for the sensor failure vs the code you have for no catalytic converters. The ecu still needs to read the sensor data.

Not sure what systems you have left on the car. If you turn on ignition, headlights and hold down accelerator for 6 or 10 seconds I would think the pump would kick on. Not sure if the system needs to have hvac engaged.

will try, thanks@@RascoeGarage

Appreciate the advice. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching and thanks for the insight!

How did he in the video get the larger reservoir pump to bleed, you can hear it in the video. But I cannot get it to turn on, only the smaller top reservoir ever bleeds?

@Xburn21 follow the preliminary steps in the video the only difference is how long you hold the accelerator down. One reservoir is activated after holding down for 6 seconds and the other is activated after holding down for 10 seconds. It works but your count has to be spot on.

@@RascoeGarage I’ve tried it a few times already, I’m using my phone to time it just in case. Still only the smaller one bleeds. But I ran the car and let the system cycle through, seems to be fine.

@Xburn21 are you pressing the accelerator all the way to the floor? In the f8x you can floor it and then there is another 1/4” or so of pedal if you press down all the way. That’s how I did it in the video. As long as it’s not overheating and you check the coolant level you should be good to go.

98’ M3

Agreed. Pretty much bought them for the same reason.

So during the bleeding procedure it says to put the cap back on which you can do. I left it off so I could keep an eye on the coolant level. When I ran the bleeding procedure the coolant gurgled and bubbled a bit but nothing crazy.

@RascoeGarage just did it. All went well. 1st did top cooler. Began over filled. Dropped to low. Filled to max. Ran the high temp system and the top tank behind the top cooler again dropped to the low mark.... the large bottom container stayed the same... weird lol

@austenazevedo6078 glad you were able to get it done. I hope the video helped! Thanks for watching!

On the vacuum system you get the pressure to -600 mm/Hg or 80 kPa prior to opening the valve and pulling in coolant. Also once you get the vacuum to pressure let it sit for about 5 minutes to ensure you don’t have any leaks in your system.

@@RascoeGarage is there a psi count? I'm pretty sure I saw another video that said 24 or 25 something?

@@austenazevedo6078 I just looked up a conversion to psi and both measurements equate to 11-12psi

Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!

I had about 15 track sessions on those nt01s at that time. Replaced them with toyo r888r. Way better in my opinion.

Thanks man!