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found out the hard way lmao

Strip the bolt? Only when using cheap tools. If you use a quality tool it doesn’t strip the bolt. That’s a symptom of cheap tools. Even high-quality tools strip bolts but you really need to be giving them hell…. if you are putting that much effort into removing a bolt with a high-quality tool then you are doing something wrong.

i open my throttle body and plate is open..? must be close..? 😊

Excellent idea i do when battery gets corrosion but, i put paper towels around entire battery to absorb the run off, keeping it from draining all over the battery box , floor, etccy. Great job although, 👍

To look for the other pieces of the block and where it went

Verification of proper thrust washer/spacer clearance

End play.to much end play.is bad

Can someone explain?

I mean.. if the block looks like that.. not much!! 🤦🏻

I dunno but I bet it's gonna be expensive.

The reason there is a hole in the block

What they forgot to check before

The reason why we have visual on that from topside.

Rod bearing clearance?

Measuring crank for thrust clearance

The rear blinker fluid level.

I uhhhhh, I don't think we should be worried about the clearance of anything on that motor anymore

Making sure there is no gap as that's not a moving part😂

Checking for engine knock

The oil level

Maybe o-ring clearance

Fingering an engine

Interesting information here. I have been working on this code for my sons 2018 Turbo Encore. It started running like crap and you could here a vacuum leak so I built a smoke machine and found the split hose. It had a MAF code and we replaced that also. It overheated short time later and it was a busted coolant bottle neck. Replaced that and then we got this P2138 code. New pedal installed and I can clear the code and drive forever but code returns to limp mode and shows P2138 and MAF code again. I checked all of the pins on that 3 plug computer board and cleaned with electrical plug cleaner. No water intrusion into cabin. Anything else to look at?

It’s a feeler gauge and they’re checking clearance/gap width.

Charging extra for that

Rod side clearance to crank journal

A video with 0 information, at least say the measure of the gap

Good info,where do you download schematics?

Does anyone know the part number for the cylinder seals for this lift?

You may have to have the code cleared a few times, but the best thing to do is to put the new part in turn your key on. Do not start the vehicle press your accelerator all the way down to the floor and hold it then let it slowly off and then do it again and hold it and then let it off and then start the car and then shut it off. You may have to go to the shop so they can clear the code a few times, but then You just need to keep Driving it and clear the codes a few times which if you take it to Shop to get done, they should do it for you, whatever you do, don’t keep buying new petals to put in just keep clearing the coat truck. The vehicle has to learn that it’s not jacked up anymore. I don’t know why the codes are so hard to clear on this one, but it is a pain in the ass once you finally get it cleared it’ll be fine, it shouldn’t take but at least

Beautiful thank you! What If you fully ipen it.. then decrease volts?! Show that show that!!

ولكن العمر الافتراضي قصير ... وزيادة الاحتاك ممايؤدي الي زيادة الحراره والشويه داخل التكوين للمطاط .... فهذا النوع يستخدم ...والافض استخدامه كمضخة للسوائل الزيتيه فقط ..

So what is a v belt. ?

JUNK they are not very strong or reliable

I am having this same exact issue on my daughters 2012 Equinox with the 2.4L EcoTec. I replaced the pedal and throttle body. What's bizarre is that I can reset it, and then the only way it will come back on is when you press past 50% throttle. Should I be looking at the ECM connectors and/or replace the ECM?

Been dealing with this on 15 Chevy Spark for the past two years. If replacing the pedal doesn't fix the problem, will it do any damage to the engine (or whatever) to just live with it and reset the code when it pops up every few months?

Great explanation

Can you have the front axle running geared down while the rear axle isn't geared down?

How much would It cost to replace at a shop?

very interesting , never knew that

too much moving part

Thanks so much for the video. I’ve been fighting with this issue for almost a year now.

Inboard brakes remind me of the Jags of years ago. I think a brake job on them was 14 hours labor.

Cool, but wait, at idle, this is repeating 5 times a second? Can that be right???

Hubs are like any vw kombi van from the 60s and 70s Inboard brake are not "unique" look at any 1970s 80s Jaguar. Old ideas reused.

Arnt they called portals not hubs

Sorry my friend … no unique , same gear system on mercedes unimog , and brake found on Citroen 2cv 😅

ChrisFix did a video a while back on changing the oil on one of these hubs.

Portal

all this hi tech shit and an 90s cherokee walks all over it