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How's this compressor workint out for you? I'm interested in buying once but I see many bad reviews online which has me hesitant.

Great video. Have a 1989 130 Johnson I took my pump off mix oil & gas still runs strong today

What is the sign when a t stat is bad? Motor still runs great and pees fine. Thanks

My truck had the same issue it was a recall dealer may fix it free

I really hate the look of kicker motors on the back of boats, but I really like the safety aspect they provide.

Have this on my Silverado, it leaks from the bottom. Any tips on how to fix it?

I have them in 35 12.50 17, they are excellent iv put 7k miles on them and they still look new 50/50 offroad & street

you used 10 gauge? mine came with with 12 so i got 12, i think it's the SAME compressor as your

i think the switch is just for signal so a smaller wire would suffice but, i can see using the original motor wire for the switch because why not

is that bolted straight on or do i see some rubber in there?

Sand primer then use the top coat.

A hook causes a suction under the boat and prevents it from getting bow lift when trimmed out ar speed ..... 2:40 .....

Did you apply directly to the fiberglass or did you use their primer as a base coat?

Hi, thanks for your videos. I believe the fuel connector fitting that’s attached to the outboard Motor may have caused me some trouble today. When I pump the fuel with the hand pump, the gas is not going into the carburetor and it’s being blocked at that fuel fitting that attaches to the motor. I tried to replace the fuel line with no luck. I pulled the fuel line underneath the engine compartment that goes into the bulb to provide fuel for the carburetor and was able to pump fuel freely out of that line… I think when it’s attached to the fuel fitting that it is not putting enough spring pressure on the fuel line bearing to allow the fuel to escape the line. I have a theory that I got a little bit of moisture in my gas from this past hurricane that went through South Carolina because I forgot to pull the plug on my transom and I had a lot of water when I went out to check on it. I am wondering if that was enough to gum up that pin on the fitting. Just wanted to get your thoughts. Tomorrow I’m gonna go get some carburetor cleaner and see if I can spray that fitting in order to free it up if that’s the case… I’m able to push on it with my finger so it’s not completely jammed. Initially, she fired fired right up this morning but then died at the dock. It’s a cheaper motor that I bought on Amazon… Chinese outboard. It’s been a good motor the past two years and she always starts right up. I don’t think it’s anything serious but I’m just trying to figure out how to fix it. It’s definitely made with some cheaper components but it does get you out on the water.

I see water coming from the tell tale and a yellow hose on the ground. Just cant see the ear muffs

Is that amount of smoke normal for that motor?

Miss mine.

If the primestart loses power, it stays on is that correct? So when your accelerating it'll choke up as such and struggle to make power.

Working thru this same issue with my 65 Johnson FD-19. This is the best resource I’ve found. I built the fuel line assembly and it’s my first time so that might be it

Hey man, can I ask you a question. I have a 175 Suzuki and everything from the motor back to the tank is brand new. My primer bulb is sucking flat. The mechanics are saying they don’t know why. Is it possible that valve isn’t letting my motor get enough gas even if it’s a new syphon valve? The motor turns on and idols fine and for an hour. But as soon as it’s under a load it sucks the bulb flat and then turns off.

Now i have a Starflite III. THANK YOU!!

Thanks for the good video. I suffered for several years with a constant rich running 40ELRQ (1992). I bought a spare carb set and finally disassembled the 1sst gen prime start. Big surprise when realized that the diaphragm (part 41) had become an uncoated nylon screen allowing a constant fuel flow into the crankcase. The cause almost certainly was 10% alcohol in an engine of this generation. New pt 41 and a gasket or 2 made the engine run like new. Part throttle fuel economy has almost doubled.

Thank you so much for the video! I just got a 1987 Johnson 150 and I'm beginning to restore her. When I first got her she had her running issues but while running would be your stereotypical thin little blue smoke that would dissipate you wouldn't even see it in the atmosphere unless you started it up to go to a new fishing spot. Over time I noticed especially if I was going slower even after replacing the spark plugs I started to get more smoke and then one day I walked out to see all this black sludge all over my transom saver (which i believe the gasket from the power head to mid unit is going) And then also a small leak of it around the bottom of the exhaust manifold cover on the back of the power head. I ended up cleaning everything up and then another day I took it out and while going slow it went from the light blue to either a darker blue or kind of a white and it would be a little bit more than normal and it would kind of hover around. No overheating alarms or anything. The VRO has been removed and I run the oil and gas mixture straight into the tank and I use one of those cheater cups at the 50 to 1 ratio. I did notice that on the bottom carb I am getting some fuel poolage and I think it's coming from the plastic 90° feeder line that's on the bottom and or I just noticed today that the port fuel pump is leaking around the back screw which is causing fuel to drip down that same elbow piece that you were talking about so this video brought to light a few things that it could be. If I'm leaking fuel then I'm sure I'm sucking air in. I'm also going to take out the thermostats today just to test them but I'm never got any overheating alarms

I have a question..does my 60 hp johnson timing need to be set properly before I sync the linkage?

They're

Thanks man. A bit unrelated but I'm considering putting a shutoff valve downstream from this valve to cut off gas from the motor. On a smaller Yamaha engine I'd disconnect and run it dry each time and for many it prevented ethanol from gumming up the engine during storage. I now have a Suzuki 4 stroke 140 and want to do the same since I had success with it previously. Would you do it?

Volume is terrible. Can’t hear you

Sounds damn good!

Ok, I can confirm that I definitely don't have one of those. I have a brass "hose barb" threaded into the tee at the top of the draw tube. So this time I went full out and tried running the engine from a Jerry can (50:1) straight into the fuel pump, bypassing everything including the oil injection system, and I'm still getting air!!!! I've ordered another fuel pump, it comes tomorrow. Maybe there is a microscopic leak in the diaphragm? It was only $50 for the new pump. Of course the old pump is brand new also so if this turns out to be the problem I am going to write a nasty review about the old one....

Really great information thanks for your video.

I have an air leak but darned if I can find it. I replace all the hoses from the tank up to the engine, re-taped the nipple coming out of the tank, replaced the primer bulb, and even tried bypassing the fuel connector going into the engine, and no luck. The engine runs good at speed, and will idle nicely for a few minutes but you can watch at idle as the fuel filter fills up with air, eventually starving the carburetors of fuel so it stalls. If I prime it with the bulb all the air squeezes out (I assume going though the carburetors) and it fires right back up, only to repeat the process. I even tried putting an electric pump near the fuel tank hoping that if I pressurize the system I can see where the gas is leaking out and find my problem, but no gas seems to leak out anywhere! Although the problem goes away when the electric fuel pump is running, no air in the system and the engine will idle indefinitely. But seemingly no gas leaking anywhere either. There is a semi-transparent tee where the oil pump delivers oil to the fuel before the fuel pump, and I can also see bubbles there (when the electric pump is not running or all the time before I installed it), so I know the leak is either at or before that tee. I also replaced the lines running from the oil pump to the tee, but did not replace the check valve. I've also replaced the fuel pump and the pulse hose. That made no difference. I think I can rule out the problem being at the tank because the electric pump does not seem to draw in any air. When it is running there is no air entering the system. Any ideas? I'm kind of running out of things to replace. As a second issue, does anyone know whether that electric fuel pump will cause the oil injection system to stop working due to the outlet of the oil pump being at pressure rather than suction? For now I've mixed oil in the tank just in case but holy heck does it smoke now, so I assume the oil pump is still working, but I don't know how to tell other than running it like that for a while and seeing if the oil usage from the oil reservoir is appropriate for the amount of fuel used. But ultimately I need to find the leak so I can remove the electric pump.

Worked for me. Appreciate the good info!

I bought a engine 1991 40 horsepower Evinrude outboard engine with the VRO2 and it's leaking oil right out of the rear of the propeller and now I'm trying to figure out the issue this video may help me The problem is again like I said it's hasn't been hooked up to anything I just recently hooked up the VRO tank to the engine and notice this oil dripping down from the rear of the outboard propeller.

Sounds sane to me. Thanks for this.

666 subs... ima sub to get you over the devils hump

my f150 is a 2014 . Maybe that's what's wrong. I'll try this before replacing the motor.

Wow. I went with the Coyote, though I like the EB. How many miles do you think you covered during that week?

Thank you I will definitely try this first.

I have two 40hp Yamaha 2 strokes. One with prime start and electric starter. The pther is all manual pull-cord start and manual chocke. They both starts at high idle an depending on temperature falls down to low idle after a moment. It telle me that it can't be the prime start mechanism that does this, because one of the engine doesnt have prime start carb. It must be the electronic ignition module or something. The black box on the starboard side of engine who does this.

For being an installer I am surprised about the lack of knowledge. I am nobody and I even know you can buy the same model with GPS. Sheesh

Hey I’m looking to purchase a sunbird 202 and throw a new Suzuki on the back but I was worried these might be a little nose heavy being a walk around what do you think?

Thank you so much brother you really saved the day on this one. It worked great!

No offense, brother, you lost me with the Bud Light 😂😂😂

I just bought the exact boat but with an I/o I was wondering if you still have the soft top around and if so are you interested in selling it. Thanks Eric

My yamaha 50 2004 has that problem... i guess they hired a laid off NASA rocket scientist to redesign the old tried and true manual choke and tried to make our lives easier?

I like these beer talks uncut. You should do a series and label them that and just tell us stuff about outboards. Im working on mine currently, I already deleted my VRO, but I still enjoyed listening to you.

I Just bought these for my 2007 Mercury Grand Marquis Gs and the Low Beam shine Better than the High Beam

I have a 2010 Evan rude 225. It's on a pontoon boat. We put a new switch in a new key switch and started up. Ran fine for 30 or 40 minutes. We parked 3 and a 1/2 4 hours later. Every time I turn the key switch I blow the fuse on the side of the motor...10 amp. It also works the tilt trim.But for some reason all we do is blow the fuse. I pulled the motor cover off and noticed the left hand thermostat cover was broken. I've never had that cover all since the beginning of Spring but it's broken so I don't know if the motor got hot. We have no reason to conclude it. Did I mean we drove around the boat for 40 minutes. Don't know. I just don't know what's going on with the fuse.

Dude, THANK YOU so much!! My Yamaha 50 TLR would start, hit low idle, then die. It was driving me nuts. After I saw your video, I replaced the diaphragm (41), both gaskets (42) since I was in the area, I figured I would put in a new set, and that dang O-Ring (40). My motor is a 2007 and that O-Ring was hard as a rock and shiny, it was actually hard to see because it took the shape of the Reed valve diaphragm thing it was on. As a matter of fact, the O-Ring broke getting it out. I put on the new O-Ring and put everything back together. Probably a 20 minute job. My engine starts and runs perfectly. The Prime Start hasn't worked this good since 2007 and I keep an extra O ring in my parts now if it ever acts up again. Thank you for helping me out! YAMAHA Part # 67F-14398-20 $5.00 Eberlin Marine in Herman MO

Dude, THANK YOU so much!! My Yamaha 50 TLR would start, hit low idle, then die. It was driving me nuts. After I saw your video, I replaced the diaphragm, both gaskets since I was in the area, I figured I would put in a new set, and that dang O-Ring. My motor is a 2007 and that O-Ring was hard as a rock and shiny, it was actually hard to see because it took the shape of the valve thing it was on. As a matter of fact, the O-Ring broke getting it out. I put on the new O-Ring and put everything back together. Probably a 20 minute job. My engine starts and runs perfectly. The Prime Start hasn't worked this good since 2007 and I keep an extra O ring in my parts now if it ever acts up again. Thank you for helping me out! YAMAHA Part # 67F-14398-20 $5.00