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Yeah, I love it. Thanks for saying so.

Sadly the Cougar hasn’t gotten much love yet but it will soon.

@@HotTrackRCexcited to hear.. I’ve been loving your videos.. new to RC but looking at a vintage kit. Thanks 👍

Yeah, those plastic rod end balls are out of place. Glad you liked the series! Good luck with your mods.

@ outstanding work! We appreciate the time and effort you put into doing this. I haven’t had this much fun in years.

It’s a similar 3 gear design but it’s not the same. The transmission cases are different and it has a brake assembly integrated into it.

@HotTrackRC ok thank you

Yeah, I don't remember doing it back in the day. I checked the original Edinger manual, and I don't see anything about lubricating the gears. Same thing on the 2013 re-re manual. However, the idler gears do wear out on these 6 gear transmissions so, adding lubrication seems like a good idea.

I’m not aware of any bearing kits specifically for the transmission only and if you buy each bearing individually it will cost more than a full kit for the whole buggy. Team JB Hobbies has a full bearing kit with the correct front wheel bearings for $17.99 on EBay. Search for RC10 Jay Halsey bearings.

Thanks ive been on the transmission for a couple hours lol ​@HotTrackRC

Sounds like a great time to me!

I asked my local HobbyTown for fuel line. I looked on-line and I don't see specs for RC fuel line. I wouldn't select any that say "large". The ID of the tube must fit over the 1/8" (.125") shock shaft. If you go to the hobby shop, take your shaft with you and make sure the fuel line is slightly tight on the shaft. You can also use plastic spacers if you have enough of those. Good luck!

@@gigglehurtz3167 Mainly the difference is the body and wheel color. This buggy needs some upgrades to make it competitive. Recently Yokomo released the ‘91 Works version which has some improvements over this one.

The link is under the episode description. These are generic springs off Amazon that work well.

Timing belts are a class of belt which are keyed using notches on the inner diameter that ride on mating features on the timing belt pulleys. They can transfer torque without high tension making them ideal for precision mechanisms. Miniature timing belts are used for a variety of motion control applications from copy machines to medical and life sciences instrumentation. You can find a wide variety of these belts by searching for "timing belt" on McMaster-Carr.

Yes! There is an end play issue between the diff and the transmission housing. I didn't catch that during the initial build. I will be using shims to take most of this play out. I'm going to try shims between the outer race of the bearing and the transmission housing that will push the bearings inward to better trap the diff in place. You can also place shims over the outdrives to contact the inner race of the bearings. I think using .003" thick shims should get you close enough but I haven't tested it yet. Just be sure that the shim you use doesn't rub on both races of the bearing or it's going to add friction. I found some shims that might work on McMaster-Carr, but I haven't tested yet.

Wow, I totally missed that typo in the catalog. That was probably a mistake copying the manual over from cars with the 6-gear transmission. And I see that they fixed the screw size online as you say. Good catch!

I’ve only seen gear diffs offered on the re-re’s including I believe the new ‘91 Works kit.

@HotTrackRC I have a couple sets here in originals going to try them in the rere

@ looking forward to hearing how the work.

Thank you! Yes, KNK Hardware looks to be the place to go for these screws. They even have two shades of gold ano. I believe the light gold finish is the original color but haven’t compared them yet.

@HotTrackRC you're welcome! Yes there are two different shades of those gold screws. Dave giltner does the screws. They are quality.

Wow, great info. Thank you!

Thanks for the heads up!

Ha, do they break a lot? I have another set of stock arms that came along with the car.

@HotTrackRC oh yes, that is the first upgrade I'd suggest.

I used Duratrax Brilliant Blue but it's a couple shades lighter than Jay's body was. I like it but if you want the correct color, you'll have to search for something darker. Thanks!

I'm intrigued, why do you say so? The manual clearly shows installing the o-ring over the shock body thread in the prior step to installing the cap. There is a relief at the bottom of the shock body thread where the o-ring sits. That allows the cap to thread on and engage the o-ring as it approaches the fully seated position. This prevents the o-ring from being damaged by the thread as the cap is being installed.

@@HotTrackRC people have a tendency to over tighten the caps, when the o-ring is on the shock body it'll pinch and sometimes cut and almost always leak. I've found that installing inside the cap, they never pinch, and never leak. I use a pinky finger nail to move home to the top of the threads where there is a relief in the cap for the o-ring. let along the finished look to me is better as the cap is flush with the shock body and no gap between cap and body. to each their own I suppose.

Interesting. Thanks.

For stock class racing, mechanical motor timing is legal but not ESC timing. So that’s the main reason to tweak the motor. ESC timing is better because it can adjust timing for different rpm ranges which is really cool. It’s still a good idea to check your mechanical timing so you know where you are starting from.

@ yeah, im tempted to get one to just play about with 😂 esp as in winter we race indoors, and its 10.5 on blinky. So getting the most out the motor would be good

Cool. Thanks!

I prefer brushless systems and have had good luck with Hobbywing XR10 ESC’s. Any 17.5 turn brushless sensor motor will work well but if you want a bit more speed you can go 13.5 turns. If you want to stay true to the vintage theme then you might go with a brush motor setup.

I think the FR01 has straight 3/16” rear axles and CVD’s? I may convert my Team Car to that so I can run JConcepts Mono wheels which has been my standard for carpet track driving. You should be able to swap the hub carrier/axle assemblies quickly between the two buggies.

Yes exactly what I was thinking.

Glad it was helpful!

I'm sure you can find them through various distributors but it's easy for me to buy things through Ebay so I do that often. Just type in "stealth transmission gasket" and a bunch come up. Choose your color. If you want to find a vintage looking felt gasket, add "felt" to your search.

@ i was going to try Team associated to get me another one. But probably rip easy again. Mine has already torn on the very bottom.

Yes, I agree they are going bare bones on the re-re manuals. That's a disappointment but I augment them by looking at the original manuals. I enjoy cross referencing them and studying the differences.

This is a really interesting question, and I haven't totally figured it out. I often deal with aluminum parts that are sent out and "soft" anodized, mainly black. They come back a matte flat black with the same texture that the aluminum went out with. The recent re-re's have a sort of "nodular" surface finish, almost like orange peel in paint and they're a little shiny. But it doesn't look exactly like powder coating either. Powder coating in my experience leaves a very smooth finish. I'm wondering if the pans are being bead or grit blasted before anodizing, creating the surface finish we're seeing. That's what it looks like to me both on the black and gold pans this year.

Thank you!

Sorry to hear that. Aluminum can be a little tricky to straighten and it might not be obvious where the bend is coming from on this pan. I've definitely lived with some twist in gold pans but it just depends how bad it is. I've heard others say that Team Associated has responded to quality issues like this if you feel compelled to do something about it. Good luck.

@ thanks for the tip, I may just let them know about it before I start the build

Thanks, glad it’s helpful.

I’m not sure why Associated is letting others take overs the parts market but most everything is available from FanRC. They come up on EBay or a number of other sources if you Google them. I don’t think Associated would have included ball bearings if they only intended this car to sit on the shelf. I’m planning to run mine hard! Merry Christmas.

@@HotTrackRC Thx for replying. Your video is probably the best build video I have ever watched. The shock tip is priceless. as is the shimming of the axles. The shims I started looking for and found "discontinued" on AE's parts listing. I then started looking for other items like the clutch fiber disc.........again it is not available. One would think that the RC10 is so popular that AE would stock parts.

I agree, AE should be supporting the parts market. Thanks for the great review!

@@HotTrackRC Bob, I certainly hope more people see your build here as it will save a lot of heartache with the axles. I have been in the hobby for 60 years and am glad I watched this. I learned a few things and acquired a couple tools that I otherwise wouldn't have. Today I received the MIP CVD's. They are 1.5 mm longer than the kit universal..........Another trick I might try is to shave 1mm off the outer side of the hub carrier to seal the deal as the chance of a bent axle is reduced even more. The 5/8" tubing on the shock shaft is well document as well, and again by you pointing it out I say thanks. Can't wait to see your finished Team car.

@ I’m curious to hear what you think of the MIP CVD’s. I’m planning to try the FanRC CVD’s with 3/16” axles. Mainly because I have stock of 2.2” JConcepts Mono wheels for 3/16” axles. I believe they are also longer but I haven’t fitted them yet. Thanks for the encouraging feedback!

Good stuff. Yeah, the hex fasteners are fine. However, they are steel and quite a bit heavier than the aluminum fasteners I'm using. So, they're a downgrade from that perspective. Aluminum flat head screws are not available with hex drive because the material is too soft to transfer the required torque on the edges of a hex pattern. Also, there is nothing wrong with the fit of the Philips head screws. If you're referring to the looseness of the nose piece until you synch it down, that's a problem with the depth of the countersunk holes on the pan (too deep). The same thing happens with the hex screws.

Get it down! I’m excited just thinking about it :)

That really depends on your goals for the car. I guess the #1 thing I would recommend if you haven't already done it is ball bearings. They are important for any type of driving and bridge the gap between vintage and performance. If you want to maximize performance, then tires are critical. But that means putting the Jay Halsey tires on the shelf unless you're driving in loamy dirt and want to go vintage. For setup, ride height is one of the most critical things, so you may need softer springs especially if driving on a high traction surface (low ride height). Another nice upgrade which is still period correct are turnbuckles. Upgrades for the RC10 are kind of endless so have fun!

@@briancarsen6315 Thanks for the hardware heads up!

Wow, thank you so much for turning me onto Ace hardware for the 8-32 Nylon nuts! I just bought several sets. They look great installed (at least from a vintage perspective)! I believe the Ace p/n is 2577-K in case anyone is interested. Look for the Nylon lock nut bin.

Have fun!

@@HotTrackRC Hi Quick Question, which size shock rod end did you use. They give you 4 long and 4 short ends where you put the pivot ball into. Long in rear and short in front? Thanks.

I use the short ones all around since I drive on a high grip surface and want to get the ride height as low as possible. These cars inherently sit high compared to modern buggies. The original gold pans used the same length shock rod end front and back. I think the short are close to the original length.

@@HotTrackRC awesome. Thanks 🙏

Thank you. I'll check them out! For those keeping score, another comment mentioned that Team KNK Hardware offers the aluminum pan screws with the correct gold anodize.

You’re right, mine has diff end play also. Pretty substantial. Thanks for pointing that out. Time to order shims!

I had the same issue with my axle. I just used some sandpaper about 600 grit and sanded the axle enough to allow the bearings to slide on the axles.

Sounds like the axles are out of tolerance. It’s less likely the bearing bores would be undersized. They are 3/16” diameter. My axles measure about.1865” which is .001” under nominal. If you don’t have a micrometer or good calipers to measure then you need to find some other 3/16” bearings to try. My guess is they won’t fit. No point in forcing them on since you’ll have stuck wheels. I’m sorry you’re having this issue. I’ve heard that Associated will help with these types of issues but I don’t have personal experience.

Dont bother with the stock dog ones/outdrives. Get the mip cvd re-re's. Soo much better. I just got em on ebay shipped for $37

I definitely like CVD's and may go to that on the Team Car. Interestingly, some racers are reverting back to u-joints on the new RC10 B7. Watch the Hall Brothers RC: "NEW Carpet setup Findings! What We've Learned: B7". It's right at the end (16:31) of the video. Apparently, u-joints don't stiffen up as much as CVD's coming out of corners and don't change the behavior of the car as much but might be considered too "soft".

@@roadrunnerorange Great tip u posted here.........they make 2 different cvd's.................which one is the right part number.......thx