Видео

Thanks for sharing this memorable story. Yeah man this last pitch was just perfect!

Thank you so much! I really appreciate that.

@@deathmetalhablo I have used 27crags. There are also topos at www.jammi.net website.

That pitch was so sick!

@@passionateclimber1501 thanks for your comment! Maybe the camera lies a little bit. That was actually quite slabby but still sustained. So nice to hear that! I hope you stay tuned for more.

Will definitely continue to follow your climbs 😃👍 I wondered where you are from, but then realised you are from Finland, is that correct? I am also a climber and occasionally I post my videos on RUclips. Below is a link to one of my climbing videos: m.ruclips.net/video/BZptJ-ZXiDE/видео.html Please feel free to let me know if you ever plan to visit South Africa. We have beautiful climbing here as well and I will be very privileged to climb here with you. Blessings, Heinrich

Two thumbs for that 👍👍 Yeah that's true. I'm from Finland. That looked like a nice climb! It definitely made me feel like going there. In that case I'll let you know!

Awesome 👍😃

No I have not. That would not be good for the rope. But that should not be a problem because both devices follow up the rope while you climb, if you have enough weight on the ropes, so you don't have to take off any slack manually.

I used to have wire gate oval carabiners for nuts, but after dropping all my nuts a couple of times, I replaced those biners with solid gates. Have not been dripping the nuts anymore. I like the oval shaped more, because I find it easier to slide the nuts in the carabiner. I have not found that to be a problem to tell which side the gate opens, you'll see it. What happened in the video was my mistake. I accidentally pressed the gate while spinning the biner causing the nuts to come off.

Definitely! But in a good way though! 😄 Thank you for watching.

The good thing is that the routes are not going anywhere. You can always come back.

I think they are 60m. Not my ropes so I'm not sure.

@@mkclimbing You are climbing pretty far between the belays, so i was wondering if it was longer. Me and a friend want's to climb this route this summer. I hope I can mange to grow some bigger balls and do it 🤣🤣

We simul-climbed the first three pitches, so that's why it looks like that. It was like 150m in total. There was like one harder part in the upper pitches, but the rest was relatively easy climbing. So no big balls needed 😂

@@mkclimbing so the ''crux'' is in pitch 12 right? -the route in general and the crux is not hard for the grade?

Hi. Not a stupid question at all. Those are called half ropes. They are commonly used in trad multi-pitch climbing and alpine climbing. Usually in trad climbing, you cannot place the pros in one straight line (except if it is a single crack all the way up). The idea is to always clip the other rope on the left side and the other rope on the right side to reduce rope drag. You can find more info for example here: www.vdiffclimbing.com/half-ropes/

@@mkclimbing Thanks! This was very helpful and I learned something new!

Hi. That's used for simul climbing, so if the second falls, he won't pull the leader down. Probably I should have used two actually, because there's two ropes.

You should not extend it, it will follow the rope up when you climb. If your follower falls you will get his weight on you and potetially get pulled off. Which is what the micro is there to prevent. Same goes for ropestretch when you climb with doubles. Simuel is fun and safe when done right, this is not it😅 Brent Berghahn has a greate article on the subject.

Thanks for the piece of advice!

@@mkclimbingkeep crushing👍

I have been thinking about buying Taz LOV just for that reason. It's sometimes frustrating if you're projecting one section of the route and you need to change the device to lower yourself. However, I'd reconsider using Shunt as a backup device as it's said not to be suitable for self belaying by Petzl.

This is the optimal setup! I think you can climb quite hard with it as well. However, it is a bit costly.

Thank you for your comment! I could try to look more up while climbing. It's just easy to forget because the camera is tilted quite down, so I have to really tilt my neck back to get the whole route in the picture.

@@mkclimbing It would add some good scenes and probably be popular with the viewers as it shows more of the experience it is to climb a real face :-)

That's true!

You're absolutely right about that!

I'm 171cm (5'8").

No I didn't. They say that the gap used to be tighter between the "horns", and nowadays the jump is not recommended.

@@mkclimbing Did you cross the gap by some other means or did you rappel directly from the big horn? I was there in the early 2000s and the gap indeed was narrower then. The jump was still a bit exciting because of the incline of the big horn and I was also worried that I may overshoot the jump and fell of of the little horn, but it was then quite easy actually. My friend led the last pitch and was belaying on the little horn. Thanks for making the videos! I have already watched several of them and have enjoyed them a lot.

We rappelled straight from the big horn, so no need to do the jump. I'm happy to hear that you enjoy watching my videos. That really means a lot to me.

Not that often. Actually I don't have any, that offset was my friend's. I'm thinking about buying some. They sure come in handy in many situations and climbs. I would carry those on a multi-pitch especially if I knew the route is not easily protected.

Thanks @tomemick, you're welcome! I really appreciate your comment! My idea is to try to share the climbing experience as a whole including all the struggles and anchor buildings, and that means editing them as little as possible. I'll try to filter out the worst coursing and 10 minutes of the same pro placings though 😂. Nice to hear that there are people that like it that way too. The sound of the tinkling gear is the best music.

Nice!! @@mkclimbing

Thanks!

Thank you for your comment! I'm glad to share my climbing adventures with you!

Thank you for your comment. There's one pitch left. Well you're correct. That anchor ain't redundant, in the sense that there's only one sling, but it's still an acceptable way to make an anchor. You just want to be sure that the rock that you put the sling over does not have any sharp edges.

If you mean cam, I used 0.4 dm dragonfly which is like a bit smaller than bd cam. Also placed one .75 z, but only because I didn't see the bolt right next to it.

Good points! I'd definitely do that if I had only one quickdraw left or I know that the next pitch is super long.

Thank you! I appreciate your comment.

Thank you for your comment! Sometimes it looks like some placement is not good on the video, even tought it is, but this is not the case. You're right, that's not a good placement, but I think it wasn't terrible either, becuse othervise I probably wouldn't have left it like that. I guess I was getting a bit pumped already so I decided to leave it and keep going.

If I remember correctly, we climbed the most left line there. There was at least one parallel line on the right side. I'd say it's 6b. On 27 Crags it's graded 6b+.

It was right there but I didn't see it 😄

Yeah man I definitely didn't want to fall on that pitch.

I prefer a bit overcammed over undercammed. One size smaller would have propably been too undercammed by my standards. But yeah I get what you mean. The size of this crack just felt to be so in between two sizes.

Overcammed? Are you for real?

Thank you! Yeah that pitch is so sick! Must be one of the best in its grade.

Thank you so much! I can highly recommend that! There is so much to climb and awesome routes.

Hi good question. I personally prefer over camming over under camming. I think .75 would have been too under camming for that place. I also try not to use all the same size cams if possible, like here the previous pro was a .75 cam. (I had a double rack)

Thanks! Yeah I think I should have escaped from the groove earlier. It definitely felt harder the way I did it, maybe like 6a or something.

Yeah that traverse was so scary! Thank you so much!

Hi. Good that you mentioned... This is not an instructional video as said in the video description. This video is about my first experience of TRS as said in the title of the video.

Haha yeah I had to check the video again and you're right! You really paid attention. I found those smaller nuts very useful on that route.

Hi. Good question. I like the ascender as a primary belaying device because you don't have to use any extension like a dogbone or sling to connect it to the belay loop.

I previously used a left-handed ascender too, and I liked it for the same reason as you do. You don't need an extension from your harness (because the handle serves that purpose) and it works great with a chest harness because of the top hole for a carabiner. It worked perfectly when using a single rope and two devices. But sometimes when using two ropes, the other rope would get jammed/caught in the cam on the open side of the ascender. Usually it wasn't a big deal because it didn't get stuck hard and I could just pull it out instantly. But it tended to happen in overhanging situations when I needed to climb quickly and it was annoying to make the extra move to free the rope. I had already decided I was going to switch it out for a Micro Traxion but made the commitment after the rope got caught when I needed to make a deadpoint and then a couple of hard moves and I couldn't get a hand free to fix it. Now I use a CT Rollnlock and a Micro Traxion. I might switch to two Micro Traxions. PS: I didn't find the sound of the wind to be bothersome at all.

That sounds interesting. I have never had that problem. Maybe it's because my ascender is right handed. 🤔 Or maybe I just have not done that much TRS on overhang. PS. Actually that's not wind. The sound comes from a highway. But anyway I'm happy that it didn't bother you. 😄

Thanks man! I appreciate it.