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They claimed around $348 CFM with their "fully" ported version that included extensive combustion chamber work

I'm not sure. I don't have any experience with the Magnum engines. I would suggest you call k&n engineering. They might be able to help you

Well yes, I was a little disappointed. I do think these heads will perform well though, but I'll definitely go somewhere else next time. Thanks for watching

@@ZeroEmpire there’s a video by Darin Morgan, the guy that doing cylinder head from BES he talk about wet flow porting

@@manray8513 Thanks, I will check it out.

Yes I had seen someone else do this with a press so it wasn't an original idea on my part. Probably could have got it out even more with a little more effort and maybe some specialized tools but for the time being I'm happy with how it worked out. Thanks for watching!. You can find my music on all streaming platforms. Just search ZeroEmpire

Hey, thanks for watching! We didn't change the cam This was shot during the "Covid" era and getting a cam would have taken 6-8 months or more. I wasn't able to leave the truck down for that amount of time. Check out the "Just Mopar Joe" channel for cam install videos and such: www.youtube.com/@JustMoparJoe

Check with SpringRates.com, High Horse Performance, Speedlogix, or give KW a call directly. The same kit should bolt up to your challenger, they have some newer kits out as well. Thanks for watching! www.springrates.com speedlogix.com/ highhorseperformance.com/

Great info! Glad to hear the Katech heads worked so well for you. Did they put any more attention to detail in your heads than they did mine? I'm hoping for similar results. Thanks for sharing & wtching!

@@ZeroEmpire I doubt it, these were bought by a customer, on my uncle's flow bench this set flowed with in 1% of the Heads my uncle bought from KaTech.

You will need a custom tune. There are several guys out there, MMX, High Horse Performance, Diablotuna (Johan) etc....Thanks for watching!

@@ZeroEmpireWill most dyno/performance shops be equipped to tune my truck (2013 Ram 1500 5.7 4X4 SLT) or do I need to buy an HP Tuner prior to going to them? Thanks again 🤘🏼

@@b.wellman5262 That would be a question for the shop. I believe HP & Diablosport are the two most popular tuning software programs used. Thanks for watching!

ruclips.net/video/o4nEeUJ-hCQ/видео.html One thing at a time at time pup!

Yes, it did. A box that was barely adequate is size. The Hemi head was literally stuffed in there. They did not follow their own instructions for packaging a very valuable cylinder head. Did you see the photos that are still on the website today? Extensive work done to the chambers in their advertisement. It also lists hand blending in the description. There was hardly any hand blending done to my heads. I imagine they spent about a total of 2 minutes or less hand blending on my heads. They also agreed that the website was rather "Misleading" but have yet to change it. Nor did they offer anything to make me a satisfied customer when given the chance. Yes, I was a little disappointed. Thanks for watching!

Yes, a box that was barely adequate in size. The Hemi head was literally stuffed in there. They did not follow their own instructions for packaging a very valuable cylinder head. Did you see the photos that are still on the website today? Extensive work done to the chambers in their advertisement. It also lists hand blending in the description. There was hardly any hand blending done to my heads. I imagine they spent about a total of 2 minutes or less hand blending on my heads. They also agreed that the website was rather "Misleading" but have yet to change it. Nor did they offer anything to make me a satisfied customer when given the chance. Yes, I was a little disappointed. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching. Good things are coming soon!

This is a good video to loop when I am surfing the web.

Yeah, he got some groove! Loop on!

Thanks for watching! They didn't offer to re-do anything. Will be finishing them up ourselves

Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching. I agree with you 💯

It's $1200 for a pair of heads. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! I think you're probably right. I'll take every 1/2 horsepower I can get.

@@ZeroEmpire It might be a half a horsepower the other direction...you never know until you try but to be honest it would be difficult to detect a half a horsepower on the dyno...lol!

Thanks for watching!

I agree. They should work well after some cleanup. Thanks for watching!

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Exactly! I've often wondered the same thing. I'm sure they would sell plenty. Would be nice to have an adjustable one too. Thanks for watching!

I asked the same question. It would be a way more reliable solution imo. With enough consumer demand maybe we could get a company to do it.

Yeah, there stuff is looking good. I will check them out next for sure. Thanks for watching!

Go for it! I think you'll love it! Thanks for watcing!

Just had take off a little near the two center tubes. You can see the area at the 10:33 mark in the video. It may have been ok without it, but some minor grinding made made it better. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

Gracias amigo!

Hey, thanks for watching, but I've already sold the original air cleaner assembly. If I remember correctly it came off pretty easily.

I'm sure these heads will be good in the end, just be aware that you won't be getting what they advertise on their website photos and that you'll have go back and do the detail work that in my humble opinion, should have been done by Katech. They still have not made any changes to their website, even though they themselves agreed that it was misleading. Thanks for watching!

Yea, it's a pretty comprehensive cooing system. Go big or go home, right? The 90 Deg. adapter was a better overall fit and offered more clearance in other areas, although it is a little close to the cradle. I actually bought the straight adapter as well to see which one was the better fit (very nice parts). Most racers go for the higher temp from what I understand. They want the oil to get up to its optimum operating temp as quickly as possible. Water boils @ 212 deg. your oil needs to get up to near that temp to boil off any condensation that occurs from the combustion process and normal heating & cooling cycles, especially on a streetcar. That's my thinking anyway. I'm sure this can be debated. Some good info on the subject here: www.motortrend.com/how-to/engine-oil-temperature/ Thanks for watching!

@@ZeroEmpire - I'm learning here myself and while your setup up is impressive, I wonder if your 50 row motor oil cooler is too large for the street (occasional track session). I read through the comments and you mentioned having to run it hard to get the motor oil up to 215*. In other words, the 50 row and 212* IR adapter are on stand by until needed, which seems seldom. Also seems your 300 is extremely efficient at keeping motor oil temps below 215*. Thanks for the link... "For a dual-purpose car, engine oil needs to be at least 220 degrees F to burn off all the deposits and accumulated water vapor. " Just an observation, thought I was seeing things (crazy)... LoL. During your video I noticed the IR adapter box label was rated 212*, but the actual IR adapter print states 215*. Any explanation? I was going to call IR and ask, what temp does your thermostatic adapter plate >start< to open. I've read the Derale 15702 starts to crack at 160* and it's fully open at 180*. Not sure where I read or heard, but any >hard< 90 degree bends in a system reduce flow by 40%. To be honest, I have know idea if that makes a difference on the IR 90 degree adapter. It could be just reference to flow in fluid systems in general. How is the IR adapter working for you, any drips from the motor oil cooling system in general? I understand this is one giant experiment for all of us, but I am just getting started and the reason I'm asking so many questions.

The 50 row is rather large, but I wanted a system that would handle pretty much anything I could throw at it and be able to keep oil temps under control and the engine alive. Is it more than most "street cars" need......yea probably, but with the system being thermostatically controlled it works great for day-to-day driving and has a large capacity for extended track & high RPM use? Setrab also includes a "horsepower range" for their coolers, which is another spec I used in deciding on the size. If you're using a thermostat to control flow to the coolers, I don't think you can go too large. www.setrab.us/products/oilcoolers/engine/index.html I believe the thermostat on the Improve Racing adapter begins to open at around 204 & fully opens at 212-215 degrees. I don't have to run it Real Hard to get the temps up, but the system seems to do its job well. Even before the coolers oil temps didn't get too high under normal daily driving. I'm sure "hard" bends do restrict flow somewhat, that's why I went with the Setrab & Areoquip fittings, all their bends are nice and smooth. I've not had any issues with any of part of this entire system. thankfully. The Improved Racing stuff seems to very well-built, top-notch stuff as well as the Setrab coolers! I've used them before with excellent results. They are not cheap but are well worth the money if you ask me. No worries about the questions. I enjoy helping out where I can. Hope your project works out for you. Keep us updated.

Yes, sir. Still good! Thanks for Watching!

​@ZeroEmpire thank you for sharing it im going to do that to my truck those mounts are junk

No problem. Glad the video was helpful.

Yea, I like the little 318. It hums along nicely and sounds good doing it.

Thank you 😋 Appreciate you watching!

Thank you very much!

Thank you 🙏🏻

Thank you!

That would be cool but no, I hadn't thought about that. Thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful & thanks for watching!

You're welcome, glad it was useful to you. Thanks for watching!

@@ZeroEmpire is it worth it ? Any gains ?

@@patkkk323 I would say it's worth it if you're rebuilding your heads that have over 100K miles. Mine weren't too bad, but there was some slight pitting on the original exhaust valves. The shop that did my heads recommended new valves for the five-angle valve job they did. I don' know how much of a gain I'll get from these since they are basically the stock size, but I'm sure it's better than re-using the old valves and I believe these will last longer as well. Thanks for watching!

Hey Matt, Thanks for the kind words. Your ideas where a big help to me on this project and what actually got me inspired to do it. I've used the "Push-lock" hose & Setrab coolers in that past with good luck, so that's why I went them. The stainless braided is great too, just a bit more expensive. Thanks for watching!

Gracias!

As far as I know I don't think they came from the factory like that, but I'm no expert on the subject. Thanks for watching!

Mucho gracias!