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It was great to meet you as well! Yeah we had a super fun trip, already itching to go back lol. Hope you did too, and hopefully we'll run into each other again in one of the south east zones!

Good question! Yeah I am pretty light for my height, but I think I'm naturally an ectomorph. I did a lot of distance running growing up and have always been very light. I pretty much eat whatever I want and just naturally sit around 140lbs +- 4lbs. The one thing I am mindful about though is cutting out sugary drinks like sodas and juices but I also wouldn't worry about it where you're at. I think I saw somewhere Nalle is like an inch or two shorter than me but sits around 150lbs and he's an absolute legend! And yes I need to make the next video of this series now the fall season is over!

@@NickRinaldiBouldering Thanks for the reply! Personally I always want to lose some weight because I have some chronic finger injuries, but find it so hard when pressure from life or hunger after training kicks in. I guess this is the struggle I have to figure our myself. Another thing I want to ask is do you regularly training your fingers on the 10mm edge? I switched back and forth between 20mm/15mm and max hangs/repeators. I have seen some gains but I find they don’t transfer very well when I climb outside where most of the crimps (even on V3/V4) are like 10mm or under. I am considering adding micro edge hangs in my hangboard session to build up the adaptations. Would like to hear your opinion on this. Appreciate it!

That makes sense, and I know the struggle with finger injuries. I think this 2023 year is the first year I've been able to string together without significant finger injuries (had a two little tweaks this year). My one small piece of advice for that is I think trying to build strength while simultaneously trying to lose weight and putting yourself in a caloric deficit is going to be very very difficult to pull off without sustaining an injury! I did a lot of finger training on 20mm and similarly did not see it pay off on the rock but I also had a hard time sticking to one protocol and would switch things up too often. This winter cycle I'm planning on buckling down on the 10mm edge and sticking with the same protocol, so it's too early to say if this will translate much better. I also have a hard time with really small edges depending on the climb, but I'm realizing that's because my full crimp is significantly weaker. So I think for me I need to build adaptations in that grip and the edge size I use probably won't matter as much. I'm planning on adding this detail in the next training video, but I've fallen on a lot of climbs this year. And if I'm being really critical of myself, I think there is only ONE climb that I actually straight up need stronger fingers for. Even then if I was super good on my feet I could probably do it with my current strength, but who doesn't want stronger fingers? hah.

@@NickRinaldiBouldering Thanks bro, I think your finger strength is definitely not "weak" for your grade. Nowadays there are thousands of finger protocols to train but mastering technique/footwork is still kind of mysterious for me. I also want to echo that sometimes it’s hard to tell if you should switch to another protocol or stick with the same one for longer. But a general rule of thumb is trying to simulate the outdoor project cuz that might translate better. In my first year of training I never hang on edges <20mm because people always say it’s “risky”. But after the outdoor bouldering trip I realize hanging on 20mm all the time will not help fingers adapt to micro edges on rocks even if I am putting more and more extra weight while hanging. Would love to see your progress!

Yeah it's a struggle sometimes 😅

Thanks! I can provide some more details into how I organize my training in the next video of this series!

Hah I need to get stronger before the next video of this series! Other than this though I'm out of ideas!

Thank you! I'm am curious to see how much carry over this will have and hopefully this can help guide someone's gym sessions! Right now I am doing push ups and flys on TRX bands twice a week for some of the bigger muscle groups. Perhaps more importantly though I try to finish every climbing session with the rice bucket to help work the extensors in the forearm as part of my cooldown.