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www.food.com/recipe/zucchini-salsa-canned-11217 Substitute cucumber for the zucchini.

@@jamaelhunt4853 960 sq ft. It's 24x40

We buy the panels at tractor supply. They have several different styles under different names. So take a walk around the side where they are stored outside. Ours are 16 feet long. As far as the stakes. I don't remember if we got those at lowes or at tractor supply. They both carry them. I put them into the ground about a foot. There will be a plate on them that's riveted to the stake itself. I usually try to go an inch or 2 beyond that and then measure to make sure all my posts are the same height. Depending on your soil conditions you may have to go deeper. If the post goes in real easy you'll need to pound it in until you get some resistance.

@@beckyslater953 remove the seeds and substitute cucumber for the zucchini. www.food.com/recipe/zucchini-salsa-canned-11217

@@makaellapopo8666 doesn't really have a smell.

@@kchedville neem oil may work. Sevin is what we use sparingly. I also try not to spray when pollinators are active.

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 Thanks for the reply - will give it a try. :)

@cae2024 the spray adhesive didn't work that well. On the other wall I used double sided sticky tape. The foam kind. This had the added benefit of leaving a small air gap behind the foam. But if I was to do it all over again I would just have a pole barn style put up with metal siding. Easier to work with and will still last longer than me.

@modifyman6977 what pulley? It's a direct coupling using a lovejoy coupler.

The splitter I have uses a pulley system hidden under the deck. The gear/pulley puller I was using eventually bent the pulley. So I cut it off. $20 pulley...

@modifyman6977 ah got ya. Mine is a horizontal engine not a vertical engine setup.

@smwon1 it's a 8x12.

Thank you!

4 to 5 inches. The edges might be slightly slopped but 3years in not a single crack.

@paulkarbowski2438 I followed what's on the cap. I think there was a tsb around 2008 where the caps were changed and the recommended oil type was changed due to excessive oil consumption and egr problems from the added soot.

@cae2024 in a later video I used a different method for hanging the sheets (double sided foam tape) which made things go a lot easier. There is a small gap behind the panels and I have had no problem with condensation on the inside. But I also run a dehumidifier in there. With our southern air I'm pulling a 5 gallon bucket of water every day out of the air.

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 oh ok. I will search for it. Wow. That is a lot per day. I live in Indiana some we have hot and really cold so just trying to find the best way to run my ceiling panels. Thanks

@@rebeccadees2300 it pushes in very hard. But make sure it's in correctly. I found the battery will go in both ways but only work one.

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 thank you for your help. I’ve been trying to contact the company but I was put on hold forever. I gave it to my brother and he’s had a problem trying to install the battery in the slot on the cultivator. He said it’s not engaging with the clip to hold it in place. I’ll let him know what you said.

@@hsnwfl7766 we're in southeast Virginia near the ocean.

Not sure. I didn't have the building too long before we did the insulation. It's loud in a hard rain but it's not deafening.

To understand why I refer to it as a KJ there's a history lesson. So be prepaired... long reply. Skip to the third paragraph for the bushings. Originally, at the onset of WWII Willys Overland built the prototype for the for the first jeep and called it a Military Bantaam or internally the MB. When the contract was awarded for the design Willys didn't have the manufacturing capability to make enough MB's to fulfill the needs of the military so a split contract was made between Ford and Willys overland. At this point regardless of manufacturer it was given the designation of GPW. "G" was Government, "P" was the 80" wheel base , and "W" was for Willys design. This carried through to the end of WWII where Ford moved on to making the Edsel and Willys Overland decided that there was a lot of former GI's that wanted their beloved "jeep" so since they already had all the tooling and people they started turning out the MB but because it wasn't "military" they changed the designation at the factory to "Civilian Jeep" or for short CJ. Every iteration until 1987 followed the CJ moniker with an alpha numeric number following for different variations or updates. So you end up with CJ7, Cj8 (scrambler), cj5 so on and so forth. As willys was incorporated into AMC (American Motor Company) and later into Daimler, Fiat and now stellantis any new models or major redesigns get a factory 2 or 3 letter designation. So the Comanche pickup was designated MJ, first wrangler (87 to 95) were YJ's, original grand wagoner were FSJ's all the way up to the most modern wrangler and gladiator (JL and JT). The designation for the liberty(US)/cherokee (overseas)is KJ and was replaced by the KK. This make sense now? As far as the bolts for the rack if you don't have a diesel KJ it's a little easier because there's more space under the front in the gassers (3.7s). If you remove the front skid guard you will see 2 large nuts or bolt heads going through the cross member. Those are your rack and pinion bolts. Looking from above you will be able to see the other side of those bolts just barely below the radiator. There might be a a fan shroud hiding them or grease and dirt depending on how clean everything is. The bushing go into the rack and pinion to shield the bolts from wearing the cast aluminum. They also space the rack and pinion off the cross member so they are pushed (not pressed) in from below and when bolted down are sandwiched between the upper bolt head and the cross member. Removing the steering shaft and a couple small clamps for the lines gives you enough room to rotate the rack housing enough to get the bushings in. It's not as simple as it sounds and will take some time and swearing to get it just right. Make sure to use the seatbelt to keep the steering wheel from moving otherwise you won't be able to get it to center correctly and you could damage the clock spring in the steering wheel itself (no horn, steering wheel controls, and a airbag/abs light if it breaks). Hope this helped.

Unfortunately I don't have good news for you. Here in the states only 2 model years came with a diesel and that was the 05/06 kj. So my only known source for parts or any information would have to come from your local dealer. A quick Google search shows Manila and quezon city are the only dealers in your country. Where yours is a Eurospec (european) you may have to order parts from Europe but your local dealer is going to be your best bet.

Yeah... it didn't age well.

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 great video. Felt like I was right there with u

If the shaft itself broke, then you're probably going to need a new pump. The one exception might be if you can find a small engine mechanic that has a spare part pump in their 20 year bin of screws.

I may ask a machine shop to make the shaft. The indent for the bigger woodruff key caused weakness in the shaft.

@user-se9kp3ze4x pay attention to cost. It might be cheaper to buy a new pump than have a single case hardened part made.

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 I ended up purchasing a new pump. I do have parts (Including Woodruff keys) for free (Shipping Cost only) if anyone needs them?

I figured the surface area. So 10 foot sides at 40 foot figures to 800 square foot (2 sides) then add another 480 (10x24x2 front and back) for 1280. I did the same for the roof but don't remember the exact number so we will say 600 square foot for a total of 1880 square foot. I then rounded up to 2000 for waste and errors. Each sheet is 4x8 or 32 square feet. So 2000÷32= 62.5 sheets. Round up to 65 for an even number of 2" and then add 20 sheets (600÷32 = 18.75 sheets) of 1" for the additional space in the rafters.

It would add another level of adhesion for the panels but you want minimal air gap. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Hope you never have to replace a rack and pinion bushing. I'll tell you now you'll may not need 2 but replace them both and set a full day of swearing aside for the repair.

I appreciate the heads up on that one! BTW, I have tested the vehicle for 45 minutes and it did not shut off. Cheers! @@southernyankeehomestead3230

The problem with ours was the seal on the top of the gearbox under the disc leaks water that in turn collects in the gearbox and inside the motor.

Found out earlier this year the entire problem is the seal at the bottom of the plucker under the disc. It didn't seal filling the gearbox with water and then filling the motor internals with water. I could barely get the stator out of the motor itself it is so rusted. Before our next harvest I'm going ro build a plucker. Amazon one is junk.

I was concerned but after almost 3 years none of the panels have fallen that I used the tape on. The spray adhesive was worthless. I ended up putting door and window spray foam around some panels so that actually worked very well. The problem with furrowing out the wall and attaching screws and washers is that the beams are 5 feet on center and the widest insulation I could find is 4 feet. The back and front walls varied wildly between 3'6" and 6 feet for the studs. So there was 9 inches additional on each panel. As far as finishing I'm probably going to leave it as it is. If I have issues I may try my hand at making some shiplap on the sawmill but I won't use osb. 2 reasons. First there would be about 3 feet of waste per sheet which would be REALLY expensive and attaching wood to metal studs is already a PIA. The second reason I won't use OSB is I absolutely hate the look of OSB. I think my OCD interferes with OSB. And if you check our Playlist I have a couple videos on doing the electrical. Come this summer when funds are freed up a little ill probably dig into it a little more but right now several homestead projects are higher priority.

Using the tape to stick the panels up, you will have a very minute air gap between the metal and the insulation. I think (opinion here) that getting as much insulation in there as possible is your best bet. Because realistically you're only going to get a r10 maybe an r15 rating at most without burrowing out the beams and doubling up on the insulation. I would recommend a dehumidifier based on your area and humidity level regadless.

It's is an off brand insulation I found on marketplace. It was about 1/2 the cost of box store and I didn't have to order a flat bed semi truck worth. The thickness of this was 2". I also used 1" on the roof as well as this same 2". I think that was in building insulatiin part 1 on our playlists.

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 , thank you.