Видео

Hi @wonderbiff, I am not currently offering repair services since I am still learning the proper way to diagnose and repair GPUs, and this is meant to just be a hobby. Although I have fixed 2 out of 3 cards, I feel like i'm still lacking in the experience department, and don't feel right learning at your expense. If you would like to send it for repair, I can recommend someone who is a lot more experienced and equipped than I am. Just send me an email at mele.hobbyrepair@gmail.com, and I will forward you the info. That said, it sounds like the USB port on your X58 Sabertooth is shorted, or the USB device you plugged into it is shorted. Newer motherboards comes with OCP chips on the USB ports, which themselves could go bad. Not sure if the X58 uses OCP chips, but most probably not. I think your next steps here is to measure the PCIe pins on the GPU, and check resistances for the first 3 pins (on the heatsink side) which are the 12V rails, and the 4th pin back from the notch (also on the heatsink side) which is the 3.3V rail. If any of those measures under 1kohm, than you possibly have a shorted voltage rail. Let me know what you find! By the way, I can't figure out why you would put a 2060 and 2070 in the same computer, the only reason I can think of is maybe SLI?

lead melting temp is around 320 °C, this one maybe around 200-250

I think the melting point for a 60/40 leaded solder should be around 180-190 C, and for lead-free solder around 220 C. You might be thinking of Fahrenheit. In this case, the purpose of the preheater is not to reach the melting point of the solder, we would only want to reach the heat pre-soak temperature, then use the hot air gun to apply the rest of the heat. The hot air station is set to 340 C by the way, so that should be plenty of heat for the actual desoldering. But I do agree with you that the 100 C board temp may be too low. Some of the temperature profiles I've seen for lead-free uses a pre-soak temp of 130-180 C, so I will try raising that to 150 C next. Thanks for your comments!

Hi Viktor, thanks for the offer! I do have a boardview file (GV-N206SWF2OC-8GD-1.1 Boardview TVW.tvw) that I was using for reference. I'm not sure if you have the same file, but we can trade and compare to see if anything is different. I can be reached at mele.hobbyrepair@gmail.com

Yes, both the shell and glass are from Aliexpress. The shell I got is ok, decent quality for aftermarket parts, and the glass lens is actually pretty good. It doesn't scratch as easily as the OEM plastic ones, and also much easier to clean.

Thank you!

@gt1man931 That seems likely. The frame itself doesn't seem stock, I think usually the Nvidia ones are beige in color. So it might not have the right clearance, and possibly putting uneven pressure on the core. My suspicion is that there might be cracked solder balls under the core, which causes the no detect issue (kinda makes sense since certain pads under the core controls the PCIe communications). And the frame changes the pressure on those pads, which might explain the symptoms. But this is only my guess, what do you think?

winner winner chicken dinner!

@@Mele.HobbyRepairNMods OMG

@tatooinedreaming I haven't had a chance to disassemble a PSV 1000 yet. I would imagine it should be fairly similar, but I would suggest searching for a PSV 1000 disassembly video before attempting

I'm glad you find it helpful!

Hi, it sounds to me like the problem is localized on the right hand side of the console (R1, trackpad clicks). Usually removing the SSD even with the battery connected *should* not cause that to happen. Can you check the right daughterboard (when disassembled with the screen facing down, it should be on the left side of the motherboard) and see if any of the ribbon cables got loose? Or better yet, try re-seating all the cables connecting the daughterboard, but be careful not to damage any of the cables or connecttors. Quick question by the way, did you put the steam deck into battery storage mode before removing the SSD?

Oh I forgot to mention, this time do make sure to put the steam deck into battery storage mode, and disconnect the battery before trying my suggestion.

@@Mele.HobbyRepairNMods no i didn't

@gamezoneentertainment7622 Ok, thanks for clarifying. I don't think the symptoms were caused by you removing the SSD without fully shutting down your steam deck. I suspect you might have knocked a cable loose when you're cleaning out your R1, or might have shorted something in that process if you used something metal, or used water instead of IPA in the cleaning process. Do try reseating the cables and let me know if that fixed your problem. Worst case is that the right daughterboard is shorted, and you might have to repair or replace it. Let me know the results!

That really depends on the defects on the card. If it is cracked solder joints (happens sometimes on lead-free solder), then reflowing it will most likely fix the problem, but since it is the same type of solder (instead of removing and reballing the chips), the problem will return again. What kind of defects do you see on those GPUs?

@@Mele.HobbyRepairNMods PC boots up with the GPU without display. No signal to monitors. I know for a fact it boots up since that caps lock does work as indicator in keyboard 😂😂

@dinodegracia That is interesting! So it POSTed with no signal, that could be caused by many things. I have encountered the same symptoms with this card as well, so cracked solder joints under a memory chip is definitely one of the many root causes. Now, that is not to say that the root cause is the same as mine, and without any diagnosis, it is more or less a shot in the dark if you want to try reflowing. I would recommend doing a preliminary test first before you commit to buying a hotair station: Install the GPU in a PC with integrated graphics card and plug in your monitor to the motherboard HDMI instead of the GPU. Check in windows to see if there's any kind of error reported on the GPU. And if you can, create a USB boot disk with Nvidia MODS/MATS and run the diagnostic. That should help narrow down the possible causes a little bit more. Let me know what you find out!

Thank you @Hambs! I'm glad you find it helpful! If you would like to see other videos for the PSP1000, feel free to request it here. I will try to oblige.

Thank you for your feedback, defthe1s! I apologize for the focus issues. I'm still learning to shoot videos with DSLR cameras, and the depth of view of most DSLR lenses are too shallow. I might get a video camera with deeper DOV and autofocus somewhere down the line. The battery box/frame was simply too deformed, and I had to use brute force, which I don't think you'd want to do. Just out of curiosity, are you tearing down your gopro to replace the shell, or perhaps do a naked mod on it?

@@Mele.HobbyRepairNMods no problem! Not sure if you can select Manual focus on those cameras and keep it at a good distance, I’m also kind of new with dslr cams, use them mostly for photo, and for close things like Lego speed buildings and so, I used my iPhone and my Hero 4 Black. That one is the issue, it stopped working once the battery ran out, never charged again (no leds flashing) and I took it to some service shop and said it couldn’t be fixed. So, I decided to check it on myself since it was already opened (took me less time) because I watched a video of common causes for those cameras to stop working, such as corrosion or humidity (although it never got water inside, always was with the case cover). Long story short, I detected a small black dot (like cigarettes on clothes) on the battery flex that might have been caused by a short circuit or similar (it previously had some issues where it stopped recording showing SD ERR message, but didn’t powered off before). So, I’m planning to replace that battery cover part and see if it gives the camera some more life 😁

I see! I'm using an old Canon T2i to take video. It doesn't have continuous autofocus in video mode, that is why you'll see me activating autofocus manually from time to time. My issue is, when i move the subject 0/5 inch further or closer to the camera, the focus is lost. So i think i'll just have to constantly refocus everytime the subject changes distance, until i find a replacement video cam with autofocus and good depth of view. For your gopro, does it power on with the charge cable connected? If it does, and just doesn't charge the battery or run on the battery, then the issue would most probably be the connection between the battery to the gopro, or with the battery itself. You might want to use a multimeter to measure the voltage of the battery, just to eliminate it from the equation. If it doesn't power on even when plugged in to power adapter, then the issue might be somewhere on the mainboard. Flex cable is usually pretty resilient to heat, but it can burn through with enough heat. It is possible to repair a flex cable with burnt or broken trace, but it will require some microsoldering skills. In any case, I wish you good luck on your repair! Do let me know if i can be of further help.

Thanks! Tune in for more repair/rework/upgrade/mod videos!