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Sounds like you've had a bad experience with them. Where are you located? We've been using Superior Walls for 22 years and had 1 wall leak at a brick ledge in 2002 that they promptly repaired. Aside from this one issue, we've had nothing but excellent performance from the product!

You could use a wye, but would need to install backdraft dampers so that one fan operating wouldn't blow back into the other. It would also be good practice to increase the duct diameter after the wye. This might be more challenging than running each separately. Alternately, you could use a central exhaust fan remote blower that pulled from both bathrooms.

Actually there is no corrugated metal pan/decking under the concrete. Instead, we frame a sloped deck under the concrete, incorporate continuous insulation, waterproof it, and pour the concrete on top. This provides the ability to install cavity insulation on the underside between the joists which would be impossible with a metal pan. The space beneath the front porch is conditioned space.

It would depend on the energy performance of the building and how much heating was required. You would also need to check with the manufacturer to see what capacities they have at extremely low outdoor temperatures in your area of Canada. Worst case, you could have a backup heat source such as a furnace that could supplement the heating output at extremely low temperatures.

That would be our recommentation! Don't forget to seal the seams in the foam board or use two layers and stagger the joints.

If you are renovating, you could reframe and add continuous insulation against the wall. Alternately, you could excavate the exterior and add exterior continuous insulation. Otherwise, do your best to make sure that the drywall is airtight against the framing and control the dewpoint in the space with dehumidification.

@@ptech88 Interesting. Where are you located? Perhaps a cold climate? A poured concrete foundation is definitely an option, albeit significantly more expensive and carbon intensive.

@@Jacob_Studer I’ve seen similar crawlspaces in Montana. Is the access through the floor of the house into the Crawlspace? The fan that is running - where is it moving air from/to?

Yes through the floor. I know the fan is venting air out through a pipe that outlets high up on an exterior wall (one of those louvre vents like with a bath fan). I’m not sure if there is an inlet somewhere as well? There may be? If there is, I think it’s another pipe fed one with a covered vent high up on an exterior wall (haven’t moved in yet so can’t confirm). I’m basically just curious if there’s anything that I specifically shouldn’t store down there. It seems very well suited for storage.

@ yes it’s a great place for storage! We generally recommend that clients protect the vapor barrier by putting down some indoor/outdoor carpet or mats under anything you store. I was curious if it was conditioned or if the fan is pulling air out continuously. It could be a radon exhaust vent - is it piped to pull from beneath the vapor barrier / liner? Idaho has some high radon areas across the state.

@@AddisonHomes That's a great idea on protecting the vapor barrier with mats, I will make sure to do that. Thanks! I will have to double check on that. I do need to get the radon tested anyways. I dont think they have a radon vent like yours. It is pulling air out continuously, and they are calling it a "conditioned crawl space"

@ interesting. Not sure how it’s conditioned if it is just pulling air out of the space and dumping it outside.

@@connorcoones3862 System size in our region are based on number of bedrooms and soil conditions. This system had good soil and 3 bedrooms.

@@BobbyFerguson-t4n you can definitely use closed cell spray foam - you just want to be sure to get an uninterrupted layer of foam between the studs and the poured wall. This will provide a complete thermal break and dramatically reduce any chance for condensation.

If the laundry room is on an outside wall, straight out would be best. Often the laundry room is not on an outside wall and we have to go up or down with the dryer vent ducting

@@iwastoldtherewouldbenomath6869 Some folks do spray foam on the band but our termite folks have challenges fully bonding the home for termites when the band cannot be inspected. The interior termite inspection gap allows them to see termite tunnels coming up the interior of the foundation walls but if the tunneled up in a crack in the filled cells of the CMU foundation, they could be hidden my the closed cell foam. It’s very easy for them to remove and reinstall the insulation batts around the band for full inspection. We also treat the band and wood 3’ from contact with masonry with boracare to reduce the chances for termite damage - but termites are tough and will often find any weakness to exploit! I prefer a 100% no questions asked termite bond as backup for our customers.

We are also a fully qualified termite company as well so I am intimately familiar with the behavior patterns of subterranean termites. If you treat with either boracare which we also use plus termidor as needed on the inside and outside plus regular inspections to see if any mud tunnels are present above the reveal we can easily warrant the installation. Batted insulation in a rim joist it's just ineffective as an air barrier since it isn't an air barrier. Granted you do have foam board on the outside at the thermal break which should mitigate some air flow. Regardless, most of the times we're not doing new construction work which would be completely different.

@@MrOddBallZ Great points! I’ll also note that the relationship between builder and termite bonding company is critically important to ensure that our clients have no “surprises” with coverage in the future which is why we worked with them to come up with an approach that they were comfortable standing behind. Each company has different risk tolerances and we worked together in partnership to come up with this approach. You are dead-on with insulation batts not being an air barrier - and we are not relying on it to be an air barrier. Our air barrier is on the exterior with our insulated sheathing with all joints taped including the joint between the sheathing and foundation where we use the Siga Fentrim tape. Airtightness is critical for the thermal performance of the building envelope and is also critical for humidity control in conditioned crawlspaces. Another note on spray foam along the band is cost and finding a foam installer that will mobilize for such a small job. We do not use spray foam in our walls and avoid it on the roof deck. If we wanted to spray foam the band, it would be extremely expensive - regardless of the conflict it would cause with our termite bonding provider.

​@@AddisonHomes For whatever reason YT decided to use my other account. Our principal is an entomologist so we are comfortable with our solutions. As for the spray foam, no mention of the LF but typically we're charging around $10.50 to $11.95 per LF for 2 inches of CCF. We're actually losing money on it now because the cost is so high but the product is so effective. It just works so well for us and we get such good results. We also do not use it anywhere else other than if we do a flash and batt in vaulted ceilings; spray foam base and batted fill. That is quite effective and economical given the cost of CCF. Our big point with termite treatment is annual inspection. If they don't do it the warranty is voided, simple as that. Never mind the repairs we have to do due to termite or other WDI damage. It's quite lucrative.

@@iwastoldtherewouldbenomath6869 definitely. We encourage all of our clients to continue their termite bond which requires annual inspections. It’s such inexpensive insurance! Where are you located?

@@Rayan-rw3gt the Panasonic fans in that range are typically 4” diameter.

@ should i use flex pipe? or rigid? does it have to be insulated

@ my hood vent in the roof is full of water drips and condensation. how can i get rid of this?

@ 1) make sure it’s air tight where it passes through the attic 2) ensure it has a damper at the roof termination, 3) adamper at the hood is helpful too. If this doesn’t solve the issue, insulate the pipe in the attic.

@@Rayan-rw3gt rigid is best for as much of the run as possible. You can transition to flex at the vent cap. Shouldn’t have to insulate it but if it’s running through the exposed attic like your range hood, that would be a good idea.

@@GForceFitness1 We used Keene rainscreen. Will definitely make a step by step video. Thanks for the suggestion. For reference, the steps are: 1) Install the weep screed and flash (tape) into water resistive barrier (in this case, Zip sheathing) 2) install secondary water resistive barrier (in this case Tyvek stucco wrap) and lap over the weep screed 3) Install rainscreen with no woven facing out (to prevent clogging with mortar) 4) install metal lathe 5) base coat of mortar onto lathe 6) install stone with mortar

@@AddisonHomes, thanks! That's very helpful.

@@stevenporter7969 Full brick veneer would typically have an air gap between the brick veneer and the sheathing allowing for drainage with proper flashing and weep holes at the bottom of the wall but above grade. Products like mortar net can help the weeps stay open at the bottom of the wall. Adhered masonry products like synthetic stone, stucco, and thin brick would all need a rainscreen for drainage behind them as demonstrated in this video.

@@AddisonHomes Great detail. What size is the weep screed you are using? Meaning how far is off the wall? Are taping the weep screed to the zip sheathing with zip tape and then putting the Tyvek over the top of the Zip sheathing and weep screed?

@@RealPropertyShow the weep screed where it kicks out is about 3/4”-1” off the wall. You’re exactly right- the weep screed is nailed/screwed to the sheathing, zip tape over the top of the weep screed, and Tyvek and rain screen over the weep screed which brings out any water behind the stone.

@@stonebody I’ve used PVC before to provide a low static smooth vent pipe, but never less than 4”

Thanks for your input

@@mikemojica I’ve seen it many times!

We've used these walls for 22 years and have never experience a leak at a joint. The sealant is polyurethane which does not break down over time if protected from UV exposure. The lifetime warranty provided by Superior Walls is a testament to the function of this system and the quality of the sealant.

If the manufacturer goes out of business, the warranty may or may not be backed, depending on how they went out of business and whether they provided a reserve fund for warranty support. This manufacturer has been in business since 1981 with numerous locations around the US.

No - we are in South Carolina. The original Addison Homes!

@@charliewheeler725 great question - bridging isn’t typically required with i-joists. Being an engineered product, I-joists don’t bow, twist, or cup. “Squash blocks” of perpendicular I-joist material and/or rim board are often required where the I-joist cross a bearing point.

@@johnmccracken5465 how unfortunate! Are you referring to the open web floor trusses? They make everything so much easier!

I like this system better than the Sense. It comes with the wire and wire nuts to pull power from both legs of the electrical panel, which is required for complete monitoring.

Unfortunately it is too common!

We have but the challenge has been availability and cost

Glad you liked it!

@@philallsopp42 a slab can certainly be poured over the vapor barrier, but this adds significant cost with no substantial benefit.

@@fordaiffa6022 glad you found it clear!!!!

@@cambridgehartley3567 yes- construction details can be significantly different in dramatically different climate zones.

@@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936 looks like a good product!

It is likely developing condensation inside the ductwork and draining back when it reaches a level of water in the duct. Where are you located?

@@chunkybeast420 yes. There are a variety of methods for ventilation. This approach is referred to as a positive pressurization strategy and relies on stale air leaving the house through the one-way dampers in the exhaust vents (bath fan vents, range hood vent).

@@coldhandjacinth9069 nope - southern mixed humid.

@@armandodiaz67 unfortunately we do not.

@@armandodiaz67 we do consult on building project in that area however!

@@AddisonHomes Thanks. Do you know anyone in the area, you can recommend?

@@AddisonHomes I might take you up on that.... One option was to be my own general contractor. That's only if I can't find anyone I can trust.

I would use continuous insulation appropriate for the climate zone.

Glad it was helpful! The Stego products are fantastic!