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@@hitmanbuc amp power and ground are straight to the battery. Battery has power and ground runs from the alternator all the way to the trunk. I got rid of the optima and xs power and went spim08hp lithium. Added a ground to the strut tower from the battery to make a shorter ground run. Helps with noise.

Usually how it goes…

Yeah eq was boosting the rca to like 9v and it was still clean on the scope. Amp says it takes up to 6v input but it actually will only take 2.2v before the board is unhappy. Clamped 4400 after rise on the setup. One of my next videos is troubleshooting gains on this. Got rid of the eq and lowered output on the radio so it’s safe/clean to max volume now.

2005 Audi B6 S4. 4.2L n/a V8 straight piped after factory header. Jackal Motorsports stage 1 tune with burble. Similar setups are about 270hp/270tq at the tire awd.

340a AutoTech alt at 15.4-15.7v depending on temp and how charged the bank is. Basically the same voltage range as cmax. Mid 15s is a good place for these.

I’d say so. Jerry ain’t loud used spim before cmax. Similarly rated C rates, spim is higher ah per cell, same voltage range. Spim is very happy at 15.4-15.8v. I’ve been daily driving for about a year on this 96ah bank. Definitely hates the cold though. Started car fine at 15°F but won’t hold voltage on music whatsoever. Doesn’t charge below 32°F. At 50° I can do car off demos and play a couple songs before I drop half a volt. (4k clamped)

The cone hits the basket before the coil will bottom out, but you can tear a spider that way... It's going farther than intended at that level. Mine were taking a little over 4k clamped (for the pair) and were fine at 3.6 cubes of air. XAD15 on 15.5v with lithium batteries.

oooh okay so that probably wasnt a bottom out sound, there was one day that was very odd, didnt have it turned up at all it sounded like maybe a 37 hz note and the subs made a super weird like zapping noise so i didnt play them until i could get out and have my mom turn them up and she had them full tilt and they were actin like nothing ever happened, then again i do have a pretty cheap radio with some pretty shitty rcas, should probably change those @@thelifeofriley815

lol it did 148db on the dash legal and 150db in the kick outlaw. Beat on the subs on over 4k clamped for about a year and now I’m switching to 15s.

I’ve run nothing but NVX for almost six years now and I’ve never had an issue. 6 amps, 6 subs, a dozen sets of speakers, and hundreds of feet of wire. Their customer service is definitely sub-par but I’ve always gotten responses from them. 🤷‍♂️ I think they are coming out with more products this year too.

I need to post an update. It’s all different now 😂

24. 4s6p.

I’m northern IL so I replaced the front subframe. Rear wasn’t too bad.

You could probably do it easier. I just pulled everything to see what was there and show where everything goes.

The tank comes out with the subframe but you could get away with disconnecting less if you’re careful.

This was a couple years ago. Still daily drive it after 8.5 years of owning it. 267k miles and 2nd owner.

😅🤷‍♂️

No, he lined the car up for another but did a burn out right when they announced they had too cancel

No one did. Rain was about 11:30am and at like 1:30pm they called off the day. Basically there was a chance of rain later in the day and they didn’t want to dry the track just to have it rain again. Not enough time in the day to get everyone through. Canceled all times for today and it won’t be averaged.

@@thelifeofriley815 well that’s good news for him sort of. Sucks though.

@@03z71lt Yep. They should get the choice to use their best time of the week or not count the day. They shouldn't be forced to just erase the day after burning the fuel and stressing their cars.

​@@mckrackin5324 they will use it as there drop day. All drag and drives take the best 4 outta 5 days usually

RockAuto under 'fuel and air'. It's the "fuel pump gasket / seal'.

Specs are in description of the video.

I know all that. Already measured out everything and ordered longer bolts. Using 1/2” aluminum bars. Got the metal locally and I’m making them myself. Each “cell” you buy is two 8ah cells in a sandwiched plastic case. The copper/steel is what battery hookup sells and I only bought one to measure out and use as a template. As I mentioned at 1:20 they aren’t good for high power but work for smaller banks and low power draw. Also mentioned Jim’s machineworx is selling bars for these and I linked to them in the description.

Man, I sorta dropped the ball ordering these. I bought 40 to make a 72v 32Ah pack for my electric dirt bike, but completely ignored the weight… I’ve dealt with lithium polymer cells for years but never expected them to get that dense. Probably gonna just make two 16Ah packs instead. Roughly 65lbs all together. For only $460, I think I still got a good deal for two 72v packs

I just need to drill out the bus bars and it’s about ready to go in. Might do it next weekend. Going to get new meters to clamp my power and see what we’re doing for output.

I’d argue they are. Minimal compression needed and they come with holders. It’s li-ion so it might have a shorter lifespan than other types of cells. This is a very cheap alternative either way.

​@@thelifeofriley815 new subscriber.. Great video and info. How much is a bank of them. Like 50ah ... Ty in advance

96AH with JimMachineWorks bussbars and BMS comes to $550 max so id say half that the cheper route! THE CELLS FOR 96ah is only $250​@PeterFeltersnatch852

I think the metal filler neck can just slip through the rubber gasket. I don’t remember removing the plastic part on the top.

Can’t beat them. I’m getting some v3 12s soon to compare to the v2s. Really beefy subs and sound great in my experience. Don’t forget to use code RILEY815 at NVX.com for 10% off.

I’ve only seen isolators in the rear as they usually aren’t meant for the engine bay. Positive goes from alt to front battery positive then same positive post has a run to the rear positive. Fuses at both ends between batteries and the isolator in the back. Some run from the positive of the alt all the way to the back but that’s more for bigger systems and multiple alts. The isolator is just a relay that connects the batteries. You want them connected to each other while charging. The iso is just for resting voltage while the car is off.

@The Life of Riley MY VW has a system built into it where it freaks out if the current is too high. It's why I had 2 go with the isolator. So they both can recieve a charge but are seperate. I suppose that is the perc of them. Multiple ways of achieving whatever purpose you need them. Most people that run them from the front that ive seen have them trucks and R/Vs. I plan on upgrading to at least 2 batteries of the same type down the road for the back. Possibly even running a switch like on the boat I owned so I can utilize the other in a time of need. I see what u mean tho. I'd rather not have the vehicle dependent on running through the isolator to start it either.

@@BigSteve_Gaming187 isolator shouldn’t be a limiter on current. If you’re putting 100a through a 50a relay it’s going to fail. They aren’t and shouldn’t be separate if the system is charging. It should act like there is a single solid cable between the batteries.

@The Life of Riley oh no. Not limiting. Only preventing the current from the rear battery from interfering with the one in the front. Thats all. That was what I was getting at. Vw has a system in place where if it reads lets say 2 batteries connected in parallel it freaks out as I came to learn wanting to test out the 2nd battery setup for the first time in my wagon. Which is fine as next on my purchase list was an isolator as I am not new to the car audio scene starting off in early 2000s but first time with duel batteries. Still waiting here in Wisconsin to be above freezing to run it. There are a couple different ways people have ran them. Urs was the first of the dozen or so that had theirs setup in the rear.

@@BigSteve_Gaming187 dual batteries should be the same as a single large battery. Isolator is only for when the vehicle is off and batteries are at resting voltage. Should not be acting like two separate systems. How my car is setup is almost exactly how the wiring diagram is laid out in the instructions. It’s literally just a switch to connect the batteries. You shouldn’t be trying to keep the batteries separate while in use. That’s not how the isolator works.

Speaker went because it was hitting the speaker grille. They are still playing strong. Wired them to 4ohm and removed the grilles and it’s fine. Had to glue the surround back together.

All x series amps have the same height and width, the length is the difference. The xad42 is like 50% longer and double the price. I was looking at it initially but to do active 3-way fronts I need 8 channels so that’s either $600 more and like 8” longer of amps or just do the two xad41s for the price of one xad42. I’ll wait for the v3s but it probably will be a while. Just going to glue and tape the v2s back together until probably later this year. I was looking at a few subs but they are 400+ each for what power I want to throw around. The Bluetooth shows clean signal on the oscilloscope when I put it all together. It’s been like this pretty much the whole time I’ve had it together which is like 5 years. When I get my radio in I’ll have a usb of my main playlist for demos and stuff but I’ll mostly be doing Bluetooth for daily driving. Appreciate the input!

@@thelifeofriley815 Hmm, I guess I didn't consider that you were going with a 3-way active system, so I can fully see why you'd rather save the space, but have you considered then possibly getting a DSP with built-in amp instead of separately running 2 4-channel amps from a DSP? Hope the v2s hold up! 🤞🏻 And, just for reference, what I meant about the Bluetooth isn't concerning it being a clean signal, it's about it being a compressed and weakened playback of the original, as any wireless signal inherently has quality degradation (at least until every device communicating is capable of Bluetooth LE technology, which is brand new, so almost nobody has available to them yet). For a contextual example from first hand experience, I can notice distinct differences in sound quality, depth of the music, overall volume, and reproduction of instruments by simply swapping from a Bluetooth connection to a wired one, and I'm willing to bet you (and anyone else) could too. If you have an AUX input in your current setup, it's worth experiencing for yourself. The Weeknd's track "I feel it coming", especially when it's a quality bit & sample rate (i.e. *not* from Spotify) showcases those differences well.

@@RAW_Reality I’d need an 8 channel dsp amp then? Idk if those even exist… It’ll be easier to run two amps off a dsp and a lot cheaper. The audio control 6 channel is like $1,400 😬 I understand what you’re saying on quality. Even over Bluetooth this does and will sound better than 90% of factory systems. If I really want that type of quality I’ll just run headphones in my room. Hard to focus on SQ at 150db SPL. 😂

@@thelifeofriley815 Oh, I assure you, they exist... While some brands are stupid expensive, there's quality ones out there in the area of $800, which would be comparable (if not cheaper) than 2 amps and a separate DSP, not to mention easier on your electrical to power. And no, I wouldn't steer you in the direction of Audio Control... Over-hyped and overpriced is what they are. And I'd be inclined not to agree with you about the "hard to focus on SQ @ 150db" comment, but to each their own... But then again, not many people do 142 on music under 2k watts to a single 12 @ 2ohms either, so what would I know? 😅 Granted, I'm more concerned with output quality than output amount than 90% of people who'll add subs to their vehicle, but I suppose if I was going for rattling everything at that level, I'm merely a box redesign and 2nd sub from that as well. 🤷🏻‍♂️

@@RAW_Reality prv dsp and the two 4 channels come in under $500 all together and keeps the system matching. 🤷‍♂️ I did 144.5 at 37hz on 1k with the two 12s. 147 at 46hz. Now I have the 5k…

Did that. Tore in a different spot on the same sub. Going to glue again and wire down to 4ohm and just get new subs before next season starts. Probably won’t have a show until May.

The black e6000 formula is actually tougher than the clear and white. Black is what I usally use to secure the surround onto the basket when I recone subs

@@nofx230 I’m using clear and the surround tore in another spot. Hoping to get new subs in a couple months or so.

@@thelifeofriley815 try putting more E-6000 on the surround. Try the whole tube😁👍

@@thelifeofriley815 if you get another subwoofer get the Resilient Sounds Gold 12" There better than the NVX.

Looking at ph for 600-6,000hz but idk if I can fit the depth. Waiting for a warm day to pull the door panel and take a bunch of measurements. I want a 2” (8” depth) but might only be able to fit a 1” (5” depth) horn.

I’ll try to stick with them. Not sure if I want to wait for the v3s later this year or just grab another pair of v2s for now. Blew out the surround again yesterday. 😅

Gotta love them. I don’t believe u can go wrong with them especially for $320 for a pair just can’t beat it

@@michaelbrooks9450 and 10% off with code RILEY815 makes it a better deal 😉 😎

4 sure