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Hi, thanks for the vidéo! Greath content🙌🏼 I need held😅 for v.e bus BMS v2 wire connection... M'y setup: -ve.bus BMS v2+main detector -orion XS 50a -Easysolar 12/1600/50 -smart battery protect for 12v panel How to connect bms pinout? I see on your vidéo that all thèse module are interconnected with wago..right? To ""charge disconnected""?? Thanks..you I inderstand when you are not Time to reply..sorry for the translate.. 🙌🏼

Thank you for this clarification

i just got a victron 150- 100 mc4 its blue thats all i know using on 1800 watts 57 volts aray hope it works, do i need wifi

I have 6 200 watt panels at 43 Oc and 5.74 sc . Which controller would be best to get

Are there any negatives to installing solar panels directly to Sprinter factory roof rails?

Great explanation, thanks for the video! Other than the Ruuvi and Mopeka sensors, are you familiar with any other things that can be added to the Cebo GX?

Very good explanation thanks 😊

My front wind deflectoer is flapping at speeds higher then 60 mph, do I need to push it down more in center?

I was hoping to hear you talk about the OG model. I have a small 19' travel trailer and need a 3000 w inverter to use the A/C (with soft start already installed). Does the OG model have the charger? I have a solar suitcase and am find with plugging that in as I need it. Any help here to know what to buy would be great. Thanks.

Would have been nice not to skip over the most important part - the 8020 adapter plates

I have a 550 watts solar panel and 75/15 controller with 12v battery will the controller work?

I spoke with 3M directly on proper adhesive to you , and they only recommend hot melt adhesive. This is because the insulation itself is polypropyline which is a low energy plastic. Has the 3M 90 held up over the long run? How would one know if it's inside a wall?

48v working models would have been useful. Good stuff anyway, cheers and keep at it.

kW is power. kWh is capacity...

Great video. Would you think that the 100/50 can handle 800 watts of solar on a van or would you go up to the 150/70 and rather oversize the controller to take advantage of the solar as much as possible?

With the small ones that have the battery connection personally I have used one connected as the battery without a solar panel to connect some low-voltage loads to the battery as I have some very low current ones and then the inverter so it gives me the functionality of the shunt to tell me how much power is coming up the battery but way cheaper

Hello and barvo for the video I wanted to ask you if it is possible to install the bms from victron (16S for a packlife that I have in 48 volts? 600AH)? or do you have to have a victron battery? my batteries are EVE 280AH in 16/2P can we wire all the batteries with the bms from victron or do we need a bms compatible with the victron? otherwise is it possible if there is no can in the battery pack to tell victron (multiplus and cerbo GX) that I have a lead gel battery pack? there is no bms on the lead in general? my pack can be protected by its own BMS cutoff 2.80 volts and maximum charge at 3.65 volts Possibly just to emit more or less on the multiplus? thank you laurent

why does the 100/50 PV nominal rating @ 700 watts but the higher 150/45 PV nominal rating is lesser at 650 watts???????? I use 3 Panels in parallel so the 100v max PV rating is never exceeded. 320watts @27v each. Then Subtract 20% loss. Currently on sunny AZ days I'm pushing 35A max charge on a 60A MPPT with AWG 6 guage wire. Upgrading for the Lithium charge protocols.

It does not make sense for them to have everything to the US standards and regulations as they have a product line meant internationally and then one for the US and a couple of other countries due to the voltage differences and weird split phase

Hear me out here. I want to charge a battery bank via an engine running alternators off the crank. Could i use something like this to do that?

I ordered the 170 Sprinter version and am in the process of installing. What’s the torque spec? Thanks!

Alotta “stuff” mentioned for remote sensing inputs outputs. Most likely worth mentioning as a use vs “stuff”. On my boat all my remote sensing “stuff”, ha a purpose, my need to know “stuff”, is based upon direct requirements to a task, a situation or requirement of my other important “stuff”, like batteries, run times, solar input, systems usages. You know, life supporting “stuff” at sea or at anchor. No where is there a category good life supporting “stuff” to increase your chances. I’d personally suggest a part - 2, “stuff” you may need to know….

Do you know the diameter of the vinyl tubing you're using?

Hi, so if I have 3 victron LiPO batteries in parallel do i need three BMS? And is the BMS only effective if it has the battery protects?

Thank you for the video! Very helpful. Question: Victron 100/30 or 150/35? Currently have 400w of solar, 4 x 100, in series, parallel. Will be on a 1 x 12v LifePo4 100aH system. Both will serve the current panel capacity, but would like room to expand in the future whether it be going to a 24v system or expanding the solar panel capacity. Do you know if the PV minimum input voltages are the same between the two units? Thanks

I can add one of these to dyi 24v baterry instead of a jk or daly bms?

1:07 a dab of what?

0:31 get tools ready: tape measure, plastic pry tool, X-Acto knife (to cut paint seal around vinyl caps), heat gun, denatured alcohol or mineral spirits, marker, tin snips or metal file or Dremel with metal burr file, touch-up primer and paint like Rust-oleum, ratchet, standard socket set, standard wrench set, standard allen wrench set, torque wrench, blue Loctite 242 (provided), Loctite C-5A (provided), caulking gun, Dicor lap sealant, +/- 10" length of hose or tubing with 1/2" inner diameter, hose clamp, blue painters tape 0:54 lay out rack pieces on floor 1:13 join side rails with splice plates 3:38 attach 80/20 bars to side rails 4:31 nub side of T-nut goes on the INSIDE of the 80/20 channel 5:49 attach feet to 80/20 rails 5:55 take note of the notches on bottom of side rails to line up feet; measurements are also provided on page 21 of manual 6:35 additional rear feet for the extended length racks are different than the four other feet 7:44 what to do if you miss installing some of the T-nuts in the 80/20 side rails 8:57 assemble wind fairing end caps and attach to wind fairing (WARNING: top and bottom brackets on end cap are not identical! Bottom bracket has a small notch in it. See page 23 of manual.) 10:06 prep van roof (Do this in advance of rack installation so any touch-up paint has time to dry.) 10:50 dealing with roof holes that are misaligned with the nuts underneath (common issue) 11:16 skip the fourth hole! 11:38 rear mounting hole (different than others!) 12:12 attach side rails to van 13:04 set distance for wind fairing placement 13:46 attach wind fairing to side rails 14:57 set width of rack 16:52 install rear 80/20 cross bar and end caps 17:20 Dicor around feet and bolts

To bad they don't have these for higher DC voltages. I would like to connect one of these to my 2 string home panels system. To charge my 48 volt batteries connected to a multiplus II. My panels deliver 350/360 volt DC while in use, so i think the open voltage might be even higher. My current solar invertor does not support frequency modulation, so when running the system in islanding the multiplus has no choice but to ramp up the frequency until the solar invertor switches off. (Happens at 53Hz) Now i am investigating to change to a solar invertor that does support frequency modulation. But i rather simplify things by not converting to 240 first and then let the multiplus convert it to 48 DC. Can anyone give some advice?

What are you guys standing on to access the roof? How to get so high is something I'm trying to figure out as I plan my install.

I bought a 250/100 it lasted exactly 60 days and fried! Never again!

I purchased one a year before Idalia hit Florida in Aug 2023, I loved it so well I order 2 more during the week of the storm although I didn't need them, I have decided to mount one with a horizontal tank to the top of my Harbor Freight FRANKLIN 36 in. x 24 in. Industrial Polypropylene Service Cart, and another Gen & tank to the bottom, and will have a custom cover made to cover the entire cart, so I can use both connected together or one at a time, run one set till it's tank runs out, then swap to the other set, I can allow the first to cool, rest, and change the oil while the other is servicing our needs

Thank you for sharing it's my first time here I have just bought two pieces of victron equipment and so far I'm loving it but I would like to expand my knowledge can you do a video of all the different gear

Can you ever go to big of an MPPT Besides being overkill would there be a point where it hurts the charging?

"Torque it to spec" -so what Are those specifications? How tight? Or where do I find that info? Thank you!

Good walkthrough. Gave me the confidence to pull the trigger. Helps that you have em in stock!

Thank you! Very helpful

VICTRON seems to be falling behind the times I actually feel hobbled with a 250 volt "DC" input limit ( much <less 150 volts "DC" ) Victron prices are too >HIGH and serviceability is impossible due to VICTRON GLUING / MELTING the BLUE Plastic "LID" to the Internals to prevent viewing the internals ( FUSES ) etc IMHO COOP ...

Great vid - keep it up!

Are the mounting brackets exactly 90 degrees, or are they slightly more angled to accommodate the roof angle where mounting?

This is an awesome rack and a great company. In the spirit of community and trying to make this better here are some hopefully constructive criticisms. This video is exactly like the directions; lots of detail on the simple and mundane and completely gloss over any useful detail. All you need to successfully install this rack is an understanding of how many pieces are used and which hardware goes with what. The packaging, instructions and the video all ignore this important fact and actually steer you the wrong way. - The screws that come in the hardware kit with 8020 adapter don't fit with the spacing on the rail. You need to use the screws in the side rail kit (which is pretty straightforward but mine did not have the right number of screws). And why put screws in the 8020 adapter box that don't work? - The number of 8020 adapters in the drawing and documentation don't match the actual application (159 Ext). They sent 10 towers and 10 8020 adapters and the 159 EXT which is the largest application only needs 8. (This was my fault. Apparently I don't have any EXT van) - They have four custom pieces of hardware that are slightly different than the other pieces that they look exactly alike. They come in the same package as the normal parts and there is zero differentiation on the part itself or in the instructions on how to identify or use them. - The wind faring brackets do not look anything like the documentation or the video (Mine have 1 notch or nothing vs 3 & 2 in the doc and video). You just need to play with the angles until you get it right. - The bottom line is there needs more meaningful direction to this kit; rather than a blueprint with a wild numbering scheme (that was un-readable by me) a simple 1-page walk through of the 3 or 4 critical points with photos of a successful result would have been a game changer. The documentation and videos do a great job of explaining that you don't wanna mess this up, but there's almost no practical application or directions on what to do. A drawing or photo of the complete tower including orientation on the van would have been enough for me to match the right hardware and reverse engineer the install. And why use vague language, loose versioning, and jump between what you might have been shipped with what is coming soon? How does this fit with what I have in my hand? Now I'm really confused... If they would've taken the time to lay out the five key parts and explain how they went together this whole install could be done on one page. Update: I talked to the shop and these guys are awesome. I told them about my mistakes and the install frustrations and the issue with the hardware. As expected, they are going to address these issues and make everything right. In that spirit I updated my comments above and I am going to make an install video that hopefully illustrates what I would've found useful and who knows maybe we can all work together to make this process a little better because this is a super sweet rack and a great company. Go buy their stuff!

I am biulding a 12 volt 600 solar array with 3-100 ah lithium batteries which will be better for me Please sir

Hello thank you for sharing currently on the Schneider Electric guy but I've always really want it victron I'm running a 24-volt system my question for victron charge controllers is how was a customer to know how many watts he can attach to the specific charge controller does it have it on the unit say like 12-volt battery you can have X amount of watts and then 24 volt you can have double the amount of watts and so on

Can you reccomend anything that will handel the HOT🔥Desert temp 117, I got ten of the 320w panels on roof, off grid, need something that will take the watts and heat, what is best 12, 24, 48v? ,,thanks

I just bought three solar panels, 100W and 18Vx6.5A each to charge my Anker 757 power station. Also I chose Mppt 75 10, the junior model, as Anker accepts only 30V 10A input, I based my estimate on serial connection of the panels, getting no more than 60V and 7A then. But, when trying to charge with Lifepo4 setting and 12 or 24V, the solar controller just showing bulk for a minute or so with 160 to 215W max, after which all goes down to nearly zero charge on the station, and I can't get the reason. Is there any settings that I missed to check?

Orion is something totally diffrent than a blue solar or smart solar. Settings from a blue solar are programmed through a VE direct port. not the way you showed in your video. Better take this video down as it is wrong.

I am inbetween converting from lead acid to LiFePo batteries. Can I use a Victron Smart solar MPPT 100/50 to drive a Victron Orion isolated DC to DC convertor to charge two 12v batteries, one being a 100A Pb Marine battery, and the other a LiFePo 12v 200A battery, that eventually go to 2 separate inverters, one for only lights, and the other for powering fridges?

I currently have a 12 volt system with a 230ah lithium battery, a 200 watt Renogy panel suitcase with the included Renogy 20 amp pwm controller. Currently 200 watts seem to be sufficient for my camping needs but want the ability to expand my system later down the road, maybe 400 watts of panels. I was thinking of getting a victron 100/30 or 100/50. If i get one of those would my current 200 watts of panels cause a problem because of lower input into the controller. Is there a minimum on these controllers to be effective. Thanks.

Although the 75/15 would more than support my RV, the input terminals will not take any wire larger than 10ga. That is something you need to know. The solar and battery wiring in most RVs is 8ga. 8ga is significantly larger than 10ga so you will need to be prepared to step it down properly.

The new install video. 😊 Nice. I figured something was different between the new manual and the original video. I’m very happy with my rack. So, the last foot support is supposed to have a bonded washer on the inside and outside? I only received one bonded washer for each rear foot and a plain rectangle, non bonded washer I assumed was for the inside???