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Oh hey dude! Thank you! It should be up sometime next Saturday/Sunday hopefully 8)

Nice mate! I'd say that getting yourself a nice silver shade for the cables and 'bolts' around the model will help it bloom, along with Nuln Oil by Citadel for the panel lining to make flat coloured areas pop nicely. You can also consider adding in some gold on the rings on the horn and guns to separate the blocks of colour.

@@Beastsbuilds but how do I do it? I'm a newbie with this. Do I hand paint with a brush? Are there special markers I can use? Or do I spray paint it with that little blow thing?

Being completely new, I'd say stick with either markers or a brush and try using both on something other than your model first, such as an old figure etc so you can get a feel for it. Practice makes it easier before you go near your kit, I wouldn't try and airbrush just yet, they're expensive to set up if you find it's not for you.

@@Beastsbuilds I got a heavy arms I just got and put together as a test run to make sure I can actually make a model without breaking it.

@@furionmax7824 That should have a couple spare pieces with it, probably use those and practice painting them, it'll make your attempts on the complete thing a lot easier to navigate.

Not this time mate! Hell yeah, it's a great kit, very satisfying to build. Have fun 😁!

Yeah dude! Aussie made by a fellow modeller. Really good products 8)

182mm mate 8)

What about them is it, if you don't mind my asking? In the right angles it almost mirrors the original Schneider within the shifting colors.

Simple beauty works well with the blade liger 8)

That's a solid recommendation, I'll keep that in mind moving forward! 😁

@@Beastsbuilds You're welcome buddy, you keep on building for the mecha culture! ^_^

@@love_ark you got it! 😁

Cheers dude! I gotta say, these crystal pearls are 👌👌👌

It's a really satisfying kit to build, hopefully you get one! :)

It took six times to post the above comment.

That's really weird, damn RUclips! The pearl looks magnificent hey, really good color. Hell yes mate, the Sabers are my favourite beside the panzer 😁, though sadly I don't have a Facebook or anything, are you in the zoids discord?

​@@Beastsbuilds I'll have a look next time I'm on Discord, Though while I loath all social media, the marketplace is all I ever used facebook for. Its the best for all your local classifieds. Scott posts all your tubes for people to watch, and seriously the group needs more mecha.

@@I3eechy oh man, I didn't even know haha! If you ever jump into the zoids discord, feel free to tag me to take a look dude, I'm Beast there 8)

Hits so good, new favourite SMS color!

Cheers Scotty!

Now that's an idea I can get behind, twin laser Vulcans from the shadow fox perhaps 😍

You got it mate, I use Revell's contacta professional. Thank you! 😁

Thank you mate!

Definitely. I'm considering trying to CAD up some new pieces to see if they work better than the kit's own.

100% mate, the shipping is eye wateringly wild. Though the proper repack for the Sturm is out soon, maybe that'll be the goods you're looking for. I've used hlj a few times, hobbysearch has a 25% discount on postage this month if you check their options, but much like you said, at a certain point it gets very pricey 😩

You chose wisely 😆

Sadly I've got the 2018 Sturm Tyrann, basically the original fury gummy legs are the issue. I built the 2019 repack fury not long ago on this channel and it's crisp, very good for posing and really strong from the posing challenges I put it through, that being said, I hope Koto puts out some retroactive fix kits for the problem ones, such as the sturm, blade/shield ligers etc.

@@Beastsbuilds Ahhh fair enough. My Tyrann was one of the reprints around 2021 onwards. I noticed the leg/knee joints were the same on the Repackage Fury that I built a couple of months ago so that's why I assumed it was the same. I've seen comments saying that the Tyrann release from 2018 onwards uses those same Repackage joints. 100% on the last part, would love to see a saber tiger and blade liger versions where they fix their joints (good lord my saber tiger is horrendous I can't pose it well due to the PC part in the leg joints). Sadly Kotobukiya won't do these anymore because the cost to print these kits are just too much. The recent Konig Wolf is a good example, with the cost of it being more expensive than the Liger Zero reprints (Empire/ X).

@@twinbladedxd As far as I'm aware, the knee joints should be the same for both, I thought it was only the ankles that were addressed later in the sturm/repack fury? The funniest part is I have both the original Schubaltz saber and original red saber from the first runs, my very first hmms wayyyy back when, and they're still perfect to this day. I'm entirely convinced that humidity/climate affects these kits the most. You're right though, it does come down to profit and cost, and sadly it most likely isn't in their best interest to do anything about it. That being said, I've been considering 3d sculpting some of the 'pc' parts and seeing how they go with resin, perhaps this sturm would be a good guinea pig!

@@Beastsbuilds Checking in again, seems like only the leg and tail joints were fixed in the repackage. Nothing about the knee joints but they're most definitely the same. Maybe mine was stored differently because I bought it off a guy from the US (shipping was 300 for shield and saber I wanted to kms). Would be down to see that one day!

Maaate, that shipping is murder, was that USD?

I'll have to take a look tomorrow, but I'm fairly sure two of them were kure and German grey. As for my pressure I have it set to 15psi 8)

Sorry about the delay mate! Greys are German, Kure, Basalt and Haze.

I'm fine with the error personally, the other division I assigned it to will benefit from me cutting the end off and making it grizzly :D

Hey mate, I use a 0.2

@@Beastsbuilds oh...thanks !

In terms of good intro zoids to start and practice on, you really can't go wrong with any of the rev raptors, they're a fantastic little zoid with great posing and a decent but not overwhelming parts count is exactly the right starting spot.

I'd say take your time and carefully deal with each section, cleaning the sprue nibs when cut from the runners for the best look. Gluing isn't necessary for a lot of parts, especially because she's got a variety of spare changeable pieces, but if you're happy using just the parts you've chosen, gluing won't hurt.

I don't like the use of actual inks on many minis honestly, the shades aren't actually ink and I'd say they pose no risk to model integrity. What it sounds like is happening there is folks using a thinned ink with perhaps some sort of thinners or other dissolving capable chemical. I have some very old citadel inks that I've only ever used over the top of other paints, so I can't say how destructive they are on a raw plastic like koto's own, but basically the shades from citadel love to cling to cracks and lines nicely with a quick, easy to manage tidy up. As a rule of thumb, I don't prime my zoids before panel lining and have yet to see any issues. My very first koto zoid, being the schubaltz saber was 'slightly' inked in around 2014 and recently finished, both times with nuln oil, and it has no issues. Basically, the shades are nice and watery, and I much prefer applying with brushes personally 8)

Thank you!

Hey there! By smaller do you mean bust size? As far as I know you'd have to go for aftermarket pieces from SH Studio for a that, otherwise the kit does have a few different options that are varying degrees of armoured or covered. Alternatively the asra ninja may have a smaller chest that should fit this kit, off the top of my head I think that would be a good alternative.

@@Beastsbuilds Thank you so much for the info. I just purchased the kit as well as MSG 01 "Tops" for Megami Device which has a smaller bust included.

Ahh! I forgot about the MSG bits, let me know how they turn out mate 8)

@@Beastsbuilds thanks! It will be my first model kit (coming from Kingdom Death and Warhammer)

Oh good choice man, the megami kits are really fun as an alternative to Warhammer and resin minis, I'm sure you'll have a blast. Can't go wrong with kotobukiya!

Not on the lacquers unless I'm doing more with it mate!

Sometimes I do prime, it depends what I'm doing really. What did the jet black do mate? Is it possible you handled the pieces or kit with grease or any oils etc on your hands? Also the surfacer may be normal, as far as I recall it's meant to be applied then sanded ready for the next coats, so it can come out looking rough.

​@@Beastsbuilds Its like the plastic surface softened then hardened as the solvent evaporated causing a wrinklely like effect. Its basically what Scott decribed as whats happened after showing him a photo of it. He says it possibly a fault in the plastic and the sms paint is simply too "hot" for it. The primer did the same thing with just a light dusting. After stripping the paint I've spent about 10 hours scrapping the surface with an olfa knife blade and then sanding to make it look reasonable again. Happened to all the leg frame bits. All the claws came out fine as I used a tamiya primer and then a tamiya gloss black for the hyperchrome. So yeah for this kit the sms will only be used for the colour. I've decanted a couple cans of tamiya and it sprays awesome out of an airbrush. First test piece and spoon look stella.

How strange, depending on the age of the kit, it's possible it's kotobukiya's early plastic, which was pretty brittle on some kits, maybe there's a link there. Sorry that's happened dude, I can't say I've had any issues with SMS paints this far, I'm glad Scotty was there to help, he's a legend!

@@Beastsbuilds Yeah I had this one for over 10 years I think and its not a reissue or marking plus. What I largely notice about it is the plastic isn't uniform in colour and has a swirly/wavey effect in the plastic and alot of the bad reaction was in those areas. Maybe it wasn't mixed properly before injection. But its all good now, just waiting on a scriber kit to arrive so I can clean out paint thats remained in the panel lines.

Yeah that'd do it I reckon, glad it's salvageable though. I still need to get around to Dettol strip testing SMS to see how that fairs.

There's never any dumb questions mate, always ask :) I use a hobby knife to trim the nubs then gently grind the blade over the area softly repeatedly to blend it in or use a small hobby file/sandpaper, remember that doing it slowly and carefully and practicing on left over sprue is best before you try on parts. The blue and yellow pot is revell's contacta professional glue, you can reuse or dispose of them when empty.

Big one next 🙏

I meant built** not broke haha.

I believe there's another run on the way, so I wouldn't stress too hard mate!

Thankfully there's another one in the backlog ;)

Good stuff dude, you'll have a tonne of fun customising and mucking about with ideas and seeing them come to fruition. Also perfect choice going with SMS!

@@Beastsbuilds I'll always support aussie businesses when I can. Laid my first bit of paint last night and today, and I must say the dark hyperchrome turned out exactly how I wanted it on the claws. Gotta be careful with it though as even after quite a few hours the chrome will rub off easily. Initial spoon testing of vallejo clear gloss seems like it'll be a winner.

Hell yeah man, that's the spirit! The SMS chromes are damn good hey, I believe you can use the SMS infinite clear over the top before coating with a more durable clear such as super as it acts as a middle barrier, I believe Scott the owner mentioned that last I asked 8)

@@Beastsbuilds Nice! But I'm still a little worried about the lacquers on top of water based paint. I been thinking about grabbing a few to try on mini's. I'm tired of GW paints simply drying up, or already dried in a brand new pot.

That's understandable, as for GW paints, I've still got a few original hexagon pots, basically I use ak interactive's acrylic thinners on new pots when I get them, and add 4-5 glass beads for mixing aid, I found that helps a tonne 8)

They're so dang good I feel, very worth the money!

G'day! I'm not fully sure what you're saying here, the translator didn't help sadly.