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I’m paraphrasing from the Vermont DMV website, but an SMV signifies a vehicle, such as farm vehicles, that does not travel at highway speeds (i.e. Significantly below the speed limit) and may make wide turns at unmarked entrances to the right or left of the highway. That’s why I specified that when I am using it for work on the farm, I add the SMV, as I meet those criteria. I did not specify that I take it off when not doing farm work as I thought it would be obvious from the fact it is held on with Parachord. I have never heard of anyone getting in trouble for going too fast with an SMV, but I know many people who have gotten in trouble for driving slow without an SMV. Extra reflectors are an excellent idea (as I stated in my video, I also said they can be magnetic for easy removal for a stock look), but the SMV is a specific signal to drivers that a vehicle is driving slowly. Be careful recommending strobe lights to people. In Vermont, amber or orange strobe lights can be used freely by anyone to signify a hazard (vehicles that are stopped, slow moving, or crossing in the roadway), but in some places, Georgia I believe is one of them, you need a permit from the state to have any strobe lights (and the type of permit dictates the allowed colors). In Vermont, it is not illegal to have red and/or blue flashing lights on your vehicle, it is just a violation if you use them on public roadways. However, in some states it may be a violation to have them installed on your vehicle. At the end of the day, I can only speak on Vermont vehicle laws, and even then I’m not a traffic lawyer. Everyone needs to understand the laws in their own state

You're right, the truck is 71 years old. I did the math wrong.

I probably should have stopped and done that immediately. The rest of the weekend we used a bungee cord to keep it closed, and it worked well.

It is registered as an antique, but in Vermont, all vehicles need to pass a yearly inspection, even hot rods, which have a separate class of registration. The requirements for these special classes of vehicles are different, they don't check emissions or things like seatbelts and airbags, but they still have to make sure the vehicle isn't going to fall apart.

I've never tried Harbor Freight sockets, I've always been partial to Craftsman tools. However, the long extensions with the wobble end I show in the video are from Harbor Freight and I've never had an issue with them.

Mainly because it's cheap and easy. Locking hubs are nice. The idea of removing the front driveshaft is so that the ring gear isn't being turned unnecessarily. An air lock transfer case solves that issue. However, the axle shafts are still turning, so there's still some wear although it is greatly reduced. The axle shafts turning is prevented with the wheels is prevented by unlocking the hubs. That's why they recommend leaving your transfer case in rear wheel drive and front hubs unlocked in a pickup with locking hubs, preventing all unnecessary movement in the axles. Locking hubs are also great off road, and I'm preparing a video about further modifications that can be made to these trucks to make them perform better. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the tip. I wasn't too worried about breaking the chains because I had already dug out the wheels, the ground was dry, and the wheels weren't seized up. Where people get into trouble is when the wheels can't turn because they're buried, held in by suction in mud or wet sand, or the differential is seized, then suddenly you're applying a lot more force than you expect to.

i learned that tip from a great uncle when i was 16 @@calvinsgarage

3-5k is a good price for an M-35a2, but it's a great deal for the newer 5 tons (if you see another one for that price, let me know), I mostly see them go for 10-15k. Either way I agree 25k is quite steep. I don't know how much they ended up selling it for but it disappeared like 6 months ago.

Thanks for the support!

Electric pumps are the norm on modern gassers because of fuel pressure for injection systems. When spark engines ran carbs, the mechanical pump was the norm. Your mechanical is physically worn to a point where stroke length is beyond the dimension where that hook still is retained in that stirrup slot in the plunger shaft. Odds are, that slot is worn longer than original spec, as well as the pivot holes in your compound arm being a bit oversized now. I'm going to assume "new pump" is unlikely, as reo mills aren't exactly common these days. So, assuming your arm pivot holes are still reasonably round (not egg shaped, just oversize) and fairly close to still centered properly, you could drill the body for an oversized pivot shaft to eliminate slop in the assembly (or at least reduce it). Alternative for egg shaped or grossly oversized is welding and grinding the worn areas to retain original shaft dimensions. Of course, a workable kludge job would be a tack weld on the tip of the hook that engages the slot, just enough to not allow it to escape. For your electric pump, 3 alternatives exist. Tap your switch off the bat + terminal on the ignition switch (power when switched on, no matter iggy on or off), the load side of iggy switch (power only when both switches are on), or the bat+ term of the light switch (power when pump switch on, no matter what any other switch position is). You're currently drawing off load side light switch, not a very good alternative. Ideally, the "right and proper" wiring would be load side of iggy to a relay coil, relay load fused bat+ and pump (so your pump load isn't overloading iggy circuit, it's only making the relay trip). Then you'd have pump any time the iggy is on. If you want the pump switched, and able to run with iggy off, then the bat+ of iggy or light switch to pump switch, pump switch to relay coil.

Thanks for the insight. The rebuild kit replaced a lot of the internals, but if the body of the pump is worn where the pivot rod goes through, that may be the problem. REO parts are getting very rare, I couldn't find a new pump, only the rebuild kit.

To replace the deck belt, you don't need to remove the PTO, but The drive belt is much smaller, and since you can't get at the pulleys at the wheels, you have to put the belt on those pulleys first, then slip it over the engine pulley. It might be possible to do that without removing the PTO, but taking the PTO off makes it a lot easier.

Thanks for the support.

I have no idea. My best guess is mid to late 2000's.

You're welcome.

I would like to get one eventually, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

That has been my experience, it starts and runs well most of the time, but I think my electrical issues have been mostly due to the previous owner. The other problem I have is I go through belts every couple of years.

I don't know. The easiest thing to do would be to contact an import broker, they deal with all the paperwork and are familiar with the laws concerning importing vehicles, which vary by country.

Good idea, I'll have to figure something out.

Glad I could help. Let me know any topics you would like me to cover in the future.

I know Ford did some rebadging of their own, Mercury Sable and Grand Marquis were at one point rebadged Taurus and Crown Vic. I think every company does badge engineering if they can.

@@calvinsgarage Indeed, yes.

Best of luck with channel, glad it was suggested to me by YT!

Thank you very much.

Thanks, I can't wait to get it back on the road.

my mechanic said my car needs piston rings because the gaps aligned causing spark plugs to "foul". what does that mean ?

When the mechanic says that your car needs piston rings because the gaps aligned, what they are likely referring to is that the gaps in the piston rings have aligned, allowing oil to seep into the combustion chamber. This can cause the spark plugs to become fouled, meaning that they become coated in oil or carbon deposits, which can interfere with their ability to spark and ignite the fuel mixture in the engine. The piston rings are responsible for sealing the combustion chamber and preventing oil from entering, as well as aiding in the transfer of heat from the piston to the cylinder wall. If the rings become worn or misaligned, they may no longer be able to perform these functions properly, which can lead to a range of problems with the engine's performance, including reduced power, increased fuel consumption, and increased emissions. Replacing the piston rings is a significant repair that involves disassembling the engine, so it can be quite expensive. However, it's an essential repair if you want to keep your car running smoothly and avoid more serious damage to the engine over time.

are piston rings supposed to align?

No, piston rings are not supposed to align. They are designed to be staggered or offset from each other, so that the gaps in each ring are not in line with each other. This is because if the gaps align, it can allow oil to enter the combustion chamber, which can lead to fouled spark plugs and other engine problems, as I mentioned earlier. The purpose of staggering the piston rings is to create a better seal and prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber. Each ring is designed to perform a specific function, such as sealing against the cylinder wall, controlling oil consumption, or transferring heat from the piston to the cylinder wall. By offsetting the rings, they can work together to create an effective seal and keep the engine running smoothly. If the piston rings become misaligned or worn, it can cause a range of engine problems, as I mentioned earlier, and they will need to be replaced. It's important to have this repair done promptly to avoid further damage to the engine.

Low oil level. my mechanic said my oil was low but my oil life is at 80% is he lying to me? It is possible that your mechanic is not lying to you. The "oil life" percentage on your car's dashboard is an estimate based on various factors, such as the number of miles driven and the engine's operating conditions. It does not necessarily indicate the actual level of oil in your engine. If your mechanic checked the oil level with a dipstick or other measuring tool and found it to be low, then it is likely that your oil level is actually low. It's important to maintain the proper oil level in your engine to ensure proper lubrication and prevent damage. However, if you are unsure about your mechanic's diagnosis or have reason to suspect they may not be trustworthy, you may want to get a second opinion from another mechanic or do some research on your own to verify their findings. so oil life doesnt mean how much oil is in the car? Correct, the "oil life" percentage on your car's dashboard does not indicate how much oil is in your engine. It is an estimate of the remaining useful life of your engine oil based on a calculation that takes into account various factors such as the number of miles driven, the engine's operating conditions, and the time elapsed since the last oil change. The oil level in your engine can be checked using a dipstick or other measuring tool. It's important to maintain the proper oil level to ensure proper lubrication and prevent damage to your engine. If you are unsure about the oil level in your engine, you can consult your car's owner's manual or seek the advice of a qualified mechanic. why does oil have life? Engine oil has a limited lifespan because it gradually degrades over time and with use. As the engine oil circulates through the engine, it collects dirt, debris, and other contaminants, and it also undergoes chemical changes due to exposure to high temperatures, pressure, and oxygen. Over time, the oil becomes less effective at lubricating and protecting the engine components, and it may also start to form sludge or deposits that can clog the engine's oil passages and reduce its efficiency. To prevent engine damage and maintain optimal performance, it's important to change the oil regularly and follow the recommended oil change intervals specified by the vehicle manufacturer. By changing the oil on a regular basis, you can help ensure that your engine stays well-lubricated and protected against wear and tear, and that it operates smoothly and efficiently.

CHECKED FOR DTC'S AND FOUND CODES P0300, P0302, P0303, AND P2651 FOR RANDOM MISFIRE, MISFIRE ON CYLINDERS 2 & 3, AND ROCKER ARM OIL CONTROL SYSTEM B STUCK OFF. INSPECTED VEHICLE AND FOUND VEHICLE TO BE LOW ON COOLANT, FOUND ENGINE TO MISFIRE ON COLD START ACCOMPANIED WITH WHITE, SWEET SMELLING SMOKE COMING FROM THE EXHAUST. REMOVED SPARK PLUGS FROM CYLINDERS 2 & 3, PRESSURIZED COOLANT SYSTEM, AND INSPECTED CYLINDERS WHERE HEAD MEETS BLOCK AND FOUND COOLANT TO BE LEAKING INTO THE CYLINDERS FROM THE COOLANT JACKET, INDICATING A FAILED HEAD GASKET BETWEEN CYLINDERS 2 & 3. REC REMOVE AND REPLACE ENGINE HEAD GASKET."

Sure, here's my suggested revision with an explanation: Upon checking the vehicle for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), I found codes P0300, P0302, P0303, and P2651 for random misfire, misfire on cylinders 2 & 3, and rocker arm oil control system B stuck off. During my inspection, I discovered that the vehicle was low on coolant and was experiencing a misfire on cold start, accompanied by white, sweet smelling smoke coming from the exhaust. I removed the spark plugs from cylinders 2 & 3, pressurized the coolant system, and inspected the cylinders where the head meets the block. I found coolant leaking into the cylinders from the coolant jacket, indicating a failed head gasket between cylinders 2 & 3. As a result, I recommend removing and replacing the engine head gasket. It's important to address head gasket failure as soon as possible as it can cause significant engine damage, such as overheating and potential coolant mixing with oil or vice versa. Symptoms of head gasket failure include overheating, coolant loss, white smoke from the exhaust, and a sweet smell from the exhaust. Continuing to drive with a failed head gasket can result in additional engine damage, leading to more costly repairs or even engine replacement

"FOUND POWER STEERING FLUID TO BE LEAKING FROM BOTH ENDS OF THE RACK. REC REMOVE AND REPLACE POWER STEERING RACK AS INTERNAL SEALS CANNOT BE REPLACED." could you also add an explanation as to why said leak should be repaired?

Sure, here's my suggested revision with an explanation: "Upon inspection, I observed power steering fluid leaking from both ends of the rack. I recommend removing and replacing the power steering rack as internal seals cannot be replaced. It is important to address power steering fluid leaks as they can lead to reduced steering performance and potentially cause damage to the power steering system. Low power steering fluid levels can result in difficulty turning the steering wheel, which can be particularly dangerous in emergency situations. In addition, allowing a power steering fluid leak to persist can cause damage to other components in the power steering system, which can be expensive to repair."

"REC ROTATE FEATHERED TIRES TO REAR WITH ALIGNMENT." could you also add an explanation as to why feathered tires should be rotated to the rear?

Last inspection sticker expired April 2010, so the last time it was on the road in good working condition was after 2009. I think the guy might have had it in a garage periodically between 2010 and 2012 as he was working on it (usually for a couple months during the summer), but I know for a fact that it had not moved from that spot since 2012 until I pulled it out in 2020.

It looks much better from a distance

Thanks 👍

It pulls so much better when you have the transfer case in low range, I just always forget to shift it before I try pulling something

Thank you for the comment. I use ethanol free gas to avoid some of those issues. I also find it keeps better than regular gas, but I'll still use some fuel stabilizer and add in fresh fuel each year, and haven't had a problem.

Thanks for the advice. I was told by a friend of the previous owner that the pump in the tank is junk, and that someone had plumbed and wired that mess so the truck could be moved (but I'll probably test the stock pump to see for myself). I have a 24 volt electric fuel pump (aftermarket) that I can put on, but I'm debating whether to run my own wires, or try using the wiring from the stock fuel pump. I don't know whether the light switches were changed because the stock switch is bad or if it was for the convenience of the operator, I'll probably remove the stock switch and test it, and if it works I can rewire it, even if I can't get the harness I have all the pinouts from the manual and can make my own harness.

Thanks. I'm colorblind, so the numbers on the wires are a huge help compared to the color coding that civilian vehicles have. There will be a video in a few months on my lawn mower, the previous owner did an engine swap and butchered the wiring. I didn't completely rewire it (I probably should have) but I had to go through and switch around the wires so that they actually get where they are supposed to go, and I had to put small tags on each wire that said what color it was and where it was supposed to go.

Thanks. It seems something always happens to where I'm scrambling to finish work on the truck just before I'm set to go on a trip.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Yeah, I should have remembered to look over there. I think I was confusing it with the GMC M-211 that I also have, on that truck, the data plates say the top speed is 55, but an early version of the manual said 58. The army figured that driving at top speed wears things out faster, so they lie to the lead-footed teenagers they enlist so the trucks don't wear out. Of course, you'll also find people who will swear they've driven these vehicles at 70 MPH for four hours without any problem. I never plan to drive it above 50.

True, chains aren't meant for a high-impact recovery. That's why I was taking it easy. I also knew a large bounce wouldn't be necessary because the ground was dry and I had dug out around the wheels. The chains also had a high tensile strength and were free from rust or defects that would weaken them, and even if one of the chains did break, there was nobody else around that could get hurt. Thank you for the suggestion, I have never heard of that technique. I'll have to try it some time, but what about the steel cords in the tire if it breaks? I'd expect the tire to break before the chains since it's not made to handle stretch in that direction.

I actually just got some new lights, I think the next video will have them.

I am going to see if I can get an old turbo from a junkyard to take apart, that's the best way to show how they work.

Thanks 👍

Thanks a lot, I hope to get it back up and running soon.

Thanks, the video of it starting will be up next month.