Видео

Thanks!

Hi, when I was making this video no I did not lube them I just use it as is. But I did fully customized the board eventually (ruclips.net/video/ugwwUH_JVOA/видео.html&ab_channel=DRPH), and yeah by fully customize I meant lubing the red switches also, the result is so much better than stock, the switches doest feels cheap anymore after you lube them

Hi! yes mine came with the 2 usb passthrough, from what I know when shopping for this board there's this one version of RK98 that comes with somekind of unique coloured keycaps, that version as I know do not have the usb passthrough, any chance you bought that version? but tbh I never used the usb passthrough ever.. doesn't seem that useful to me

@@drph5306ohh okay😮 thank you so much for replying😄 What I have is the plain white version btw with no usb passthrough I'll just return it I guess so that i I can repurchase the version with the 2 usb passthrough

In tokopedia sir, an Indonesian e-commerce. But to be specific I didn't just buy it, I have to send the board to the seller so he could measure the board first before he could make the custom case.

That's neat! If this helps, the boba lt stock form has a high pitch sound to it, if you use a soft film to it then the switch will have that deeper sound. But I'm guessing that the hippos will have the deeper sound since it have shorter pole than the boba lt.

@@drph5306 yeah it wasnt a huge difference with the boba when filmed for me. One thing that did happen though is that i messed up like 10/12 Boba after filming them with .015 mm tx film. They got this ticking noise and even after i took out the film, the ticking remained. Im glad i decided to test them before i did the same to the rest. I was very careful too with how i closed them. Did you experience this as well? And what kind of film did you use?

@@Yukeena Oh damn, now that you mention it, yeah i guess mine have the ticking as well. At first i thought it was the nature of the switches not because of opening it, but in my case the ticking is so small tho so I guess I don't mind that. Oh and when the switches came to me I opened it straight away I didn't try these switches stock form, that's why I didn't realize the ticking was a problem. Dang I guess that's why gazzew not recommending lubing their switches, but leaving it stock isn't a good idea either, since every 10 switches that i bought had a bad lube job on the spring so it's pingy. The film i used was Durock soft film (0.15 mm), Vinyl bottom and Polycarbonate top, I do compare the stock one vs lubed and filmed one and to me the lubed filmed one has a more deeper sound than stock, worst case for me is the film wasn't aligned properly and when i close the switch the film is ripped (only 5 times occured).

@@drph5306 Dang! Sorry that you have to deal with this too :(. But they still sound good! And I couldn't hear any of the ticking in your video. The rest of the ones that I lubed without trying to put film in it, sound good with no ticking, so I'm happy about that. Still bummed out that i ruined 12 switches, but oh well...it happens. Yeah I tried them stock, and while they sounded good, the pitch was a bit too high for me, so I lubed em up and re-donut dipped the springs. Now they sound good. I think I'm also gonna get some for my other boards that I pre-ordered. I still really like this switches like a lot. Hopefully that ticking issue can get fixed in the future though.

Yes i guess there are 2 version of this, but RK didn't advertise it as much i guess. When I ordered mine in aliexpress the pictures showed was the non spaced one just like what you've described. But when the board came I got the spaced version instead, and the seller didn't say anything about it.

@@drph5306 that sucks, I don't like the spaces, I'd be angry as hell. Guess if it's going to be luck of the draw then I'll just get an RK100.

@@bluebirdsigma well, that really depends on you sir, if you don't mind the spaces between the arrow keys and the numpad then yeah go for the RK100. It was my fault for not asking about the spacings in the F row to the seller in the first place, but in the end I kinda like it, looks more like the usual keyboards.

@@drph5306 now that I think it more carefully, I think that in both versions, the RK98 is still closer to my fantasy keyboard once I put my vintage 90s style keycaps on it. I might get it anyway.

Thanks! But it’s a negative on the tutorial sir sorry I can’t edit video You can check out this video ruclips.net/video/5a4NdWBeDkU/видео.html I basically follow this tutorial for the installation

To me, both of the boards felt the same at stock form, they're both equally bad to be honest (mostly because of the keycaps). So I can't tell you which one is better stock form since both felt the same to me, it only depends whether you like the RK100 layout or RK98 layout (to me it's RK98 since the spacing between the arrow keys and the numpad saves me a lot from the missclicks).

@@drph5306 Are the switches bad or is it just the keycaps? Thinking of buying this, I've been looking for a wireless 96% and this is the cheapest that i've found.

@@GadaruTy The linear reds are good, I've been using the reds (lubed of course) since October 2021 and I still daily use it (for gaming purposes) till today. The brown ones though, not recommended. They're scratchy stock form and after generously lubing them they still feels and sound scratchy. For the keycaps, ditch it straight away. You can have the best switch in the world and it will sound and feels cheap with the RK keycaps.

Thanks!

Sorry sir I don’t know what F key sequence means

Oh do you mean how the function keys seems separated between f1-f4 and f5-f8 and so on? If so then that layout has been like that since I bought the board, I didn’t do anything to the pcb

@@drph5306 my EK98 haven't separated

@@nguyentung5418 if I remember correctly there are different versions of this board; the seperated function rows and the non separated ones When I ordered my RK98 in Aliexpress the pictures showed was a non separated f rows, but when the board arrived I got the separated ones for some reason So your RK98 actually has 100 buttons instead of 98 right?

@@drph5306 yes, my K98 have 100 key, but i realy likes separate :(

I'm not very good at explaining switch type feel so I hope I explain this correctly. Before this I only tested outemu browns, gateron browns, and huano browns; those three switches sound and feels like scratchy linears like they literally feels like linear switches with a very little bump. But this ice v2 switch finally give me those bumps I need to reduce typos while typing. And the 62g is good enough for me, not that light but not too heavy either. So far this is the best tactile switch for me (although this is the most expensive switch that I bought and I haven't tried other switches that is more premium than this so there's that) and to me it kinda make sense since this switch is a little more expensive than the 3 switches I mentioned earlier.

@@drph5306 Thanks for the response, I completely get what you mean. I'm really inclined to get these switches, but I'm currently undecided between the light purple and clear (more tactile stem) Outemu ICE versions.

@@dans2423 That really depends on your preference whether you like it more tactile or not sir XD, but if this helps I've been using this switch since November 2021 for productivity uses until today. Maybe try buy just 5 pcs for each switch type first to see what you like most, then buy bulk for your type choice for your board.

No sir, no foams can be found at the bottom case

@@drph5306 I see the RK96 has the foam at the bottom, but it's blue only, not RGB. Thanks for the reply and great video!

@@thetewks Yeah imo Royal Kludge is the most unconsistent regarding to their keyboard features on a single keyboard type. For example my RK100, I have the white led and RGB, the white led one doesn't have the USB passthrough but the RGB one has it. So if you do get one maybe yours will have the foam in it whereas I don't, I can't really tell Sorry if this isn't that much informative sir XD

Hmm, Malaysia ya.. I can't promise much but I'll see what I can do okay.. Me and the guy who make this custom case are from Indonesia though btw

Hi, I just contacted the seller and he’s willing to try this out. Let me know if you want to discuss this further aight :)

@@drph5306 sorry about late reply… hi,thank you for your relying and have seen my comment…ya I still want the casing if have way to ship to Malaysia … cause in Malaysia can’t even find out this RK98 case…

@@drph5306 I hope can get your reply again for discuss about the further how we can ship to Malaysia and your contact like WhatsApp or anything app…

@@stevengoh6127 I dont think it's safe to share WhatsApp number here, do you have any discord account sir? Oh and the case you're looking for is the RK98 case too?

Sorry, I don't understand what you're saying. A rough translate suggesting that you're asking what case that I used? If so then it is a customed stacked acrylic case sir, I paid someone to make this custome case for me.

It's a Filipino (Tagalog) word means Dude what casing are you using? Where did you buy it?

Thanks!

Nice comment

Sorry, but I don't think I can do that because I paid other people to make this custom case. I can make a video on how to open the original case (just the original case and plate, since the rest of it is already on the customed build), but even then the video will be a scuffed and unedited one since I have zero knowledge on how to edit videos..

@@drph5306 I would also like to see how you dismantled this keyboard. I just bought one of these myself I love the retro 1800 layout with cleaner lines than the RK96. So far I've changed out the alpha numeric switches for Gateron lubed milky yellows; function and navigator switches are Gateron pro brown; and keycaps are knock off retro 9009 ptb cherry profile (no interference :-) ) with a dsa profile space bar because it's super quiet. I checked out your vids in my research, very helpful, so keep up the good work.

@@Vauxhall1434 Sure, I'll try to make a video of the disassembly later if I have the chance to. But in the mean time, to dismantle the board you need to unscrew the screw that sits underneath the board feet (so 2 screws total, and opening the feet is as same as opening keycaps that uses costar stabs; pull left and then right vice versa), after that you can just unclip the the top case from the bottom case and I recommend unclip from the 4 corners first and the rest will unclip easily (use thin and hard plastic to unclip it, i used cutter since i have no thin hard plastic and i end up scuffing the plastic). After that just unscrew all the screws on the plate and then pull the plate carefully as not to rip the 2 jst cables and then pull those jst cables and voila! the board has been dismantled. Do you think it's the switches that causes no interference or the knock off caps? On my red board I did try putting a knock off jamon caps (cherry as well) to RK red switches and it has no interference as well XD

I bought mine in Aliexpress, and right now the board is still available there.

Well, only opening the top case is the hardest part, the rest is pretty much straightforward. Since the top case is clipped to the bottom case, you have to unscrew 2 screws behind the keyboard feet, and then pry open the first 4 corners of the top case with a hard thin object (I used with a cutter, I tried with a card but it won't do anything), after that the rest of the clips will be opened fairly easily. The worst part of this board is if you decide to do the o-ring mod (putting o-rings to the screw to get that gasket mount feel), the top case wont fully clipped to the bottom case since the pcb is lifted. I ended up make a custom case for this board

@@drph5306 thanks for the answer. Couple more questions though. Does it really come with preinstalled case and plate foam? If yes, is it of good quality?

@@shampoodaitv7222 There is no case foam, but there is a plate rubber dampener. I dont know the sound quality difference between this one compared to say like EVA ones but I still like this one; the cutting is super precise and makes the typing feel more dense

@@drph5306 thanks again for the info Mate. Can you also post your modded RK100? I'll be happy to check it. 😊 All the best.

@@shampoodaitv7222 I did, it’s in here ruclips.net/video/f4s-bz4GO4Y/видео.html If you mean the modded RK98 one yes it’s on the way because the custom case is still in progress 😁

Thanks! It's from a company named "PressPlay" sir

Thanks! But to be honest, if it wasn't for the space between the arrow keys and the numpad, I would've picked the RK100 instead since that keyboard is more mod-friendly than this one. I've tried to do o-ring mod on the screws and with the lubed rk red switch the result is just incredible; but the downside is that since the o-ring mod lifted the pcb, the top case won't fully clipped in to the bottom case; and since the on/off switch is in the pcb instead of in the daughterboard like the RK100, I have to use a tweezer each time I want to turn on the wireless mode. All of this downsides won't be there with the RK100 keyboard. Both the RK100 and RK98 keyboard comes with their own RK switches (if I remember it correctly it's basically Huano switches but with "RK" branding on the top housing)

@@drph5306 It does have a home and insert button. It's in fact the same button layout as the RK100. The only difference is that the arrow keys are spaced.

@@mariusfestejo yeah turns out there's two version of this board apparently: the spaced F-row one and the non spaced one. The spaced one (like in the video) has 98 keys (2 less buttons than the RK100; home and insert button), whereas the non-spaced one has 100 button same as RK100 (the home and insert button is in the same row as the F-row which is why it isn't spaced).

Yes, the pudding keycaps really makes the RGB so beautiful, the stock keycaps were just so awful both on feel and looks