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i did this and it lasted 70K miles before i have a slight drip on one connection. well worth it you snowflakes think your gonna drive your truck forever but you won't.....save the money and do it this way

Thanks for posting if I took off all the parts it took to change the by pass hose I'd fix the leak but have to get it towed to a shop to get it back together alot easier to cut the pipe and run the rubber hose

Thanks for sharing, used this method to replace my pipe and it worked great, didn't have to remove starter, thanks for the help

Just watched to know where to look for pipes location. I can confirm my 2012 Tacoma 2tre-fe came with the metal pipe already. Thankfully will not need to change.

Why didn't You show in the video how easier it was to do the work?

I would have liked to have seen how he got the old plastic pipe out of there in one piece. I would have also liked to have seen him "snake" the combination metal/rubber pipe up in there behind the intake manifold.

Sorry. I’d rather spend the extra time and have the solid metal pipe.

30 minutes to completely remove the intake...why so much extra work?

My Tacoma is a 2013 2.7 L & I'm lucky as Toyota installed a metal pipe in mine, so if it's 2013 or newer this shouldn't happen if coolant changes are done soon enough. I like the rerouting of the hose vs pulling the intake assembly off and I'd advise using the silicon hose also.

For people considering this method, I just finished doing it and it SUCKS. Be prepared to cuss A LOT, cut your hands, get coolant in your fresh cuts. In hindsight, I wish I would have just done it the normal way. The job might take longer but I guarantee it's less stressful.

Had to remove intake manifold. My mechanic charged $590 labor.

Mine Just started Leaking today. Thank for the video!!

Just wanna add my thanks for this video. Did this repair today and everything went perfectly. Actually, I'm a small guy with skinny arms, so I may have even had an easier time than you did getting into some of those tight spaces. Anyway, thank you so much.

just got a replacement bypass pipe from Toyota as it was made out of stainless steel! the old bypass was made out of plastic, and it cracked...my motor is a 2.7 liter 2005

Did you drain all the coolant before replacing the coolant tube

How did it end up working out? Over time?

Part number for the pipe please

How do you get the old one out

Thanks! Worked excellently. Finished it without the need to take the starter off. Still was a B#@!h but def better than taking off half the maifold.

I'm doing the same thing. Toyota wanted 90 bucks for a new plastic bypass pipe. Ebay wanted 20 bucks for a metal one. thanks for the video. I cut mine with a cutoff saw and then used a buffer wheel and grinded the edges.

With 230000 miles I'm tempted to do it your way. Bought a cheap Chinese part ($22 Canadian dollars). This is a major design flaw that those with 200K+ are being challenged.

Did this , solid. Use a pipe cutter for a clean cut, so there's no sharp edges, had one already but the small one I used is only 5 bucks at home depot 👍

as plastic cooks, it doesn't matter what color you start with it will always end up clear

all the clamps on my hoses are original for 276000 miles

No thanks, I'll just take my time and do it the other way.

Just replaced my bypass line today using this video as a guide. Very tight in the area but I was able to get the old one out. Did break it more in process but didn't care. And got the new modified one in fishing behind the manifold. Did not have to remove anything else such as dip stick, or starter, etc. Only took tire off. Hardest part was really getting old one out and breaking nuts loose. Getting new in was quick.

What prevents the re-routing of the hose?

how do you get old by pass out will the plastic brake off inside ?? thank you for a great tip

Is it possible to cut out the pipe middle as you have done, but instead reroute that portion away from the engine and away from the underside of the manifold? Is there clearance and will the design allow one to bolt the connection at the thermostat housing so that the tube faces AWAY from the engine? Then reconnect via various elbows and flexible heater hose?