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FireplacesNow
Добавлен 8 сен 2010
Fireplaces
Monessen Belmont Clean Face Direct Vent Fireplace
FireplacesNOW - Monessen Belmont Clean Face Direct Vent Fireplace
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Can I pick it up
The big Phillips screw on top what does it adjust , output?
My fireplace used to run just fine. It is an electronic ignition with a remote. Now when I start it, it cycles through everything, lights just fine, burns for about 8-10 minutes and then shuts off. I have replaced the thermocouple but it is still doing the same thing. The gas company where I purchased it 5 years ago says they no longer service ventless gas fireplaces. So I am at a loss. I will try to run it with the damper slightly open, to see if it makes a difference.
My fireplace has three connections: a TH, a TP, and a TP/TH. Which ones should I use for remote connections?
Thank you! Great share!
You didn't fix it, you just re-dented it slightly differently
Best instructions I've found on RUclips. Quick, easy to the point.
I mean you put it plain you go straight to bisness on telling it how it's supposed to be done I listen to you and go my logs up and running this morning because of your video thanks brother
Found it: the switch must be a millivolt or 24V switch. If 120Vac, then in time, the oxidation will affect performance. Manufacturer: Majestic Part Number: MVWS eFireplaceStore Item Number: MAJ-MVWS UPC: 796310512363 Features Mounts in wall box Includes 15' of wire For millivolt and 24V systems
is there anything special with the wall switch. I think the newer switches need 110 to punch through any oxide build up, and I need to know what to specify.
Im confused about open / closed as well. Im looking to install doors but Iv seen conflicting info about how to properly use them . Iv seen where closed with an established fire for more heat distribution amd also open for any fire. 🤔
looking for this answare two years!!
How do i access the manual
Thanks so much just bought a house that came with a gas fireplace with out the remote this fixed it
How often does the actual wire go out on these switches. I’m talking about the on/off switch on the wall. I have had two different companies come out to look at this and one man said the wiring is bad… I already changed the switches… Do i need to pull out the wire and terminate it with new 18 gauge wire or try what your video is illustrating? Thank you!
💀🥀
Great Video
I like the appearance and features. Perfect addition for finished basement.
Door must be open? hmm
Awesome video. Thank you!
EXCELLENT GAS VALVE TESTING METHOD
ok But how do I remove the old ones DUUUU!
Thank you. Great video! Great information. Useful. Thx
Thanks a lot.
Hi, how would you adjust the output gas pressure for this valve? Is there an adjustment screw somewhere? Thanks
I would like to thank you for your great video, I followed it step-by-step and cleaned my own fireplace. Now it works perfectly, thank you so much!
Where did you get that rubber fitting that goes over the in and out? I need one bad!
RMA316, Manometer Tube Adapter, 3/16" - 5/16"
hi is there any videos that shows how to remove the front glass panel of this model EF30G
Will not pass wet inspection
The only I cannot check is the gas pressure... The flames are weaker than the pilot, all the other stuff test okay
I notice the manual says either 100% open or 100% closed?
How much heat can these blowers safely handle and operate properly?
Hello! You might need a Durablow Smart Home Fireplace Remote Control SH3001, SH3002 for Millivolt gas valve, and work with Amazon Alexa, Google Home Assistant, Apple HomeKit, IFTTT. amz.run/44Xo amz.run/44Xm
It blows my mind that there’s all these videos of JUST a working gas fire place and absolutely no ‘How to’ on placing embers and what bryte coals are and how best place them
OK!!!
What if I dont see half the millivolt reading with switch turned on. I get 550 millivolts with pilot on and switch off but only about 5-10 millivolts when switch is on.
Did you get an answer for this this is the behavior my valve is doing after replacement the fireplace does not turn on
Same with me. I've come across a forum post where somebody was getting low milivolts all the time and after they cleaned the thermopile it returned to good milivolts, but theirs still wasn't lighting. Then they replaced the thermopile which fixed the issue (even though the millivolts on the thermopile were good after cleaning it, it seems theirs was still defective)
Since their thermopile dropped to 50 mV when the switch was turned on. And a reply was: if you have enough power to maintain the pilot, but the main valve draws too much current, it is most likely the gas valve. But I would go for checking the connections first, (no cost for parts) then replace the thermopile, (less expensive than the replacement valve). If that does not work then the valve. I always ask the mechanics that worked for me when the condemn an expensive part... "After you replace that and it still does not work, what will you check next?" they usually suggest some less expensive repair, then I say... "Do that first!" This brings me to the conclusion that the pilot may not be large enough to generate the necessary current. Is the Pilot Burner Clean?
Thanks for the video! I used it in reverse order to change out the existing toggle switch to a paddle switch on my gas fireplace. I couldn’t figure out where the power supply was coming from until I watched.
i have a Earth fireplace insert. I set the valve to Pilot but the pilot will not lite at all, No gas is going to it. The gas is on feeding into it. Why do you think no gas is getting to the pilot? thank you
To bypass these you wrap a bit of wire around the thermocouple and have a bit of it extend into the path of the flame. The wire transfers the heat to the thermocouple and the system keeps running. PS this is a terrible idea the only reason I know this is because bad gas quality can mess with the flame making the oxygen sensor misread and shut down your heater.
Tom Giar if you click on the drop down arrow it'll give you the full description. It's Propane from what i see in the description.
Where is the wall switch getting power (electricity)?
I've a new Dyna Glo ventless heater and the pilot does the same as your example at 0:34 sec it begins to crackle/sputter slightly then the flame tip extends, the gap from pilot tube widens then it goes out. There is adequate oxygen/ventilation in the room and other gas heaters equipped with ODS function fine. I've cleaned the pilot tube for any manufacturing debris and noted that if you partially obstruct the pilot tube 'vent' hole on the side the pilot behaves normally without sputtering and will remain on....is there an adjustment for the hole in the side of pilot tube?
I have a question for you if you get this comment
There is no adjust but after a lot if frustration and 2 new wall heaters by Mr. HEATER, I bought an EMPIRE ventless wall heater and in identical situations it stays burning and is working great. I was told the cheap $200 stoves you'll always have trouble with.
Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks...
Many builders do not wire the junction box underneath the fireplace. So, buying the blower is useless, unless you hire an electrician to wire the junction box.
Whats the large brass knob with the slot in it next to the pilot knob?
Usually that’s the pressure adjustment screw underneath the brass screw. At least that’s what every single furnace/HVAC gas valve adjustment screw cap looks like.
Do you have to use an NG Millivolt?
really? are you serious? why even make this video if it's going to be that shitty... my goodness
This keeps happening to me how do i solve it open a window or will a fan blowing air work ir whats the best solution?
This sensor has rendered portable propane heaters like The buddy heaters useless
Buy an Empire heater. Trust me, the cheap heaters are prone to this. My new Empire is AMERICAN MADE and is designed to function at high altitudes too. I wasted $400 on 2 Mr. Heaters before I was told this.
keep a window cracked open if it continues to happen you might have to open window more depending on wind direction at window
Thank you very much. Your video was very helpful.
where did you purchase the gray 1/4" ID tube adapter you show connecting to the pressure tap? Thanks
RMA316, Manometer Tube Adapter, 3/16" - 5/16"