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It also has a weird plastic feeding ramp that i think is causing all the jams mine gets

Mine jams about 8 out of 10 rounds. Wish I never wasted $620 on it

Why not in the us?

Thanks for the video! Have you shot more rounds through it? I'm interested to know approximately how many rounds had failures to feed or eject out of how many total shots? Thanks.

What happened the first attempt?

Robinson Frank Hernandez Betty Johnson Paul

what you want in a charging situation is a reliable shotgun that's tested and true which the federation spm-12 is not! a Mossberg 590a1 on the other hand has been vigorously tested by the US Military has is in use to this day, why would you trust your life to anything less?

Very solid shotty! 💯

Hey man great vid thinking of picking one up just saw it on sale for $460 was also wondering where in Canada are you I’m also looking for some land to buy

this was the absolute best information possible for me, I'm so grateful. i actually had everything on hand, including a wire feed welder and lug nut. thanks so much for uploading.

I just got 1. looking for all the info I can get. this helped. thanks

Thank you!

NICE SHOOTIN TEX!!!!! LOOKING AT ONE ATM "}

Is it legal to have a 10 round magazine? I thought it was 5 max?

Those 40 yard shots were pretty accurate actually. If you track the red dot just before the trigger pull, you'll see the slug hit the target pretty close to where it was. Nice.

That's a cool shotty.

Hey what optic do you have on there?

How did this hold up? Its on my short list

Hey, just picked one up. What ammo do you recommend? Also what light do you have mounted underneath?

Do use 2 3/4 or 3 inch shells?

Got me 1 will it be good for hunting

I have the canuck enforcer. Shot a ton thru it. Great so far.

Still like it? Thinking of getting one. $500 at FA outlet. Maybe with a cheap optic.

Ok what do you do when you get to your destination and want to take it off? Where do you put your app when you’re going with your skidoo does it fit in the truck?

Hello sir how did figure out how to take it apart can’t find any video out there and doesn’t come with a manual either

Very nice and I know it's heavy as hell lol. What wood did you use?

Hey how's loading the magazine? Do you have to slide the shells in as you push them down( catching on the brass) or can you just push them down? Hope I worded this correctly. Thanks for the video. I'm gonna follow for more.

Nice Hi my name is Angus I live in Toronto I have the same one how you like it I have not used my

Is that a direct injector or indirect injector?

Bro I'm in Maine there's no way in hell I'm shooting a bear with a fake slug...nice video though.

I like it! Bery nice!

Thanks

If the saw is rated for having a longer bar then that would be fine but if a person is trying to run a longer bar than it’s rated for then it would probably cause a problem 😱🤕

I am a big fan of not bending over! Nice job!👍👍

Great job young man!

I don't feel comfortable with bars longer than 20". Most of my cutting is actually limbing and cleaning branches and I rather use a 16" bar for that.

u should lose some weight so u don't end up sick with diabetes...

SWEET !!!

It says that I won't MORE fuel

Your saw needs jetted. Sounds like it is running too lean. It could seize on you. It is the reason it doesn’t respond when you give it gas. The jetting may be ok for warmer temperatures. But they lean out when it is cold. When it is cold you have more oxygen in the same volume of air which makes your mixture lean.

If I could have liked this video more than once I would have. Well done.

How much psi is that thing running

I really hope this channel grows. I love taking derelict junk and making it work. Good job buddy 👍

Atta boy Tyler!

Thanks. Exactly what I was looking for.

I used a cut off wheel (.045) disc and cut the old bearing off. I was careful not to go deep, and only cut the bearing beign mindful of the surface of the shaft.

This was pretty fun!

Were you puffing on a Manitoba Slim there bud?

I knew as soon as you said "glovie" you were from Alberta.

Good video, thanks. Couple comments. This is a different color code scheme than I have seen used. A tester box is always a good idea. I usually ignore all the codes printer on the connector and only pay attention to wire position. One other thing I really like on a truck tester box is a ballast resistor and amp meter to make sure the brake controller can actually produce the required current. A 1 ohm 200 watt resistor will simulate a 2-axle trailer. If the controller is working it should supply about 12 amps when set for max braking (this is why the ballast resistor needs to be 200 watt). Just be aware, that resistor is going to get HOT when the brake controller is driving it at full power. I also really like having the amp meter on the trailer test box. You should see about 3 amps per wheel. If you have a 2 axle trailer with brakes on both, you should pull 12 amps. If you only get 9, you have a brake that is not working. Don't even have to jack the trailer up to test. You can't always run your trailer tester off the breakaway, even if it is good. If there is a charging circuit on the breakaway it will often prevent "back draw" so the breakaway can't try to feed power to the truck. Can't say I'm a fan of using wire nuts on a trailer (or truck for that matter. They are more prone to corrosion and vibration. I really like the junction boxes (like you use for your truck tester). I use these any time I need to connect more than two wires. For a simple splice I use heat-shrink solder-less butt connectors or solder splices. Just finished a major rewire of my utility trailer. One thing I have still not quite mastered is how to protect ALL the wires from rodents. Most of mine are in conduit, but about half the places where it came out of the conduit got chewed up. I am trying some new wire sleeve and only time will tell if that keeps them at bay.