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I suppose you could reuse the enclosure as long as you were careful disassembling it. Do you drive I took out is a 2.5" SATA HDD that I believe is 15 mm thick so as long as what you were purchasing was no larger than that I would think it would probably work..... That being said I would most likely opt just to buy a HDD enclosure off of Amazon as there are some really nice features that can be included in some of them and they are just made to do exactly what you're talking about

Thank you so much

The products just ended up being okay in my opinion The length of the cable was nice compared to some other options for a multi-charger, however the longevity was not there and I've sent started using Anker multi-charger csbles

Sorry for the late reply. It held up well I'm not still using it in the same unit but it did function in there for a little over 2 years just fine. However only having two 1080p cameras recording data to it should have been a pretty light task even for an SMR.

It works well, that is why I like this design. It has side intakes that many lack, but it makes for a thicker unit

Turns out they have bigger fish to fry

I believe both the PS3 and PS4 used 2.5" drives like this however they do have a max thickness that can be installed and I don't believe you can install a 4tb like I have in this video because it is approximately 15 mm thick. Definitely double check online for whatever specific model you have.

@@DoYouEvenTech thanks for the info you rock

Sorry for the late reply around the holidays! In your case it was definitely convenient that you already had one, but it's crazy as it seems a lot of times you can save money by buying the external version and taking it out of the case if it's a standard drive inside of it.

This can be true for some, however with most Seagate drives they are standard Barracuda or Exos (depending on the capacity) placed in a case.

Without hearing it myself it would be difficult to say what it most likely is. One thing I would do is rather than shaking, gently rolling it over in the palm of your hand. By rolling rather than shaking if the sound is still heard it could just be a small piece of plastic inside the case, most components in the drive that fail do take a little more force to hear and are normally much quieter.

@@DoYouEvenTech Thank you... Hopefully no major issues.... Read a similar post where they mentioned drives, 4TB and above may not fit in the case properly so could be an alignment issue.

Either way if you had the availability it wouldn't be a bad idea to make sure you also have that data save somewhere else even if it meant buying another drive to back it up to. Unless it's data you can do without.

I was not having any trouble with mine. I needed the bare drive for a project I was working on. But a drive making a lot of noice and not showing up on the computer is normally not a good sign. I would get a replacement drive and if you were ever able to get it to show up you better get the data off quick!

I was not having any trouble with mine. I needed the bare drive for a project I was working on. But a drive making a lot of noice and not showing up on the computer is normally not a good sign. I would get a replacement drive and if you were ever able to get it to show up you better get the data off quick!

I am not sure where those money figures came from but the installing that I was using this found needed a 2.5" drive, and the external was considerably cheaper to purchase and shuck the drive out at the time.

I am not sure where those money figures came from but the installing that I was using this found needed a 2.5" drive, and the external was considerably cheaper to purchase and shuck the drive out at the time.

I am not sure where those money figures came from but the installing that I was using this found needed a 2.5" drive, and the external was considerably cheaper to purchase and shuck the drive out at the time.

Just whyyyyy

Pretty sure at this price its only going to be providing surge suppression. Until the cost gets to the $50+ dollar range, most will not automatically regulate or condition the power.

The PS4 should have the same 2.5" form factor HDD but you have to pay attention to the thickness of it. I am not sure if you can put the larger 3, 4, or 5tb drives in it. They can be all the way up to 15mm thick where the more common thickness is 7mm.

The type of drive will work I am just not sure the maximum thickness that can be installed in a PS4

The type of drive will work I am just not sure the maximum thickness that can be installed in a PS4

Which drive did you add? And is it still functioning? Need to replace mine now…

It's a 14mm thick 2.5" drive. And that is for sure. A 3.5" inch drive would have been much larger than this one.

Yes is should work just fine with Google as well. As far as controlling both give them each a different name like "plug 1" and "plug 2" -> then create a group like "plugs" or "Christmas lights" and add plug 1 and plug 2 to the group. Ask Google to turn on and off the group!

Sounds like a power problem. When the drive tries to spin up and can't they make a click/beep sound. You could try putting it in another enclosure but the way it sounds it very well could be a problem with the drive itself. if you get it to start you better get your stuff off of it.

@@DoYouEvenTech Thank you!

That port has been bad about bending and breaking. It's nice to see a shift to usb-c and that should be a little less bad about that.... Also just getting a whole new hdd enclosure might be a good option for you too they can be gotten on Amazon or whatever to put most size drives in you would just have to make sure you get one big enough to hold yours

Damn, Seagate user you're so lucky cz the HDD is using a SATA port that can be placed anywhere. I buy 4TB WD Passport and USB port 3 board was broken, I opened and wtf the HDD is integrated with a USB3 port, the pricing of the board is almost the same as the HDD passport, my data is stuck on there. Beware!

I agree the case is not great but I have had pretty good luck with the drives inside them

I want to start of saying I can't tell you exactly what is going to work for you, and if you need help talking to a professional in your area might be better. But in general it is going to have a similar power input as the outlet you currently have (120VAC 15-20amps)... All that is normally required is: -turn off power and verify it's off -remove the 2 Hot (black) wires and join them to the Hot (black) of the TP-Link, securing all 3 in a wire nut. -remove the 2 Neutral (white) wires and join them to the Neutral (white) of the TP-Link, securing all 3 in a wire nut. -remove the bare copper or green (ground) wire and join them with the green (ground) of the TP-Link. -And when you power back up you should be able to join it too your network.

Thank you for your helpful response. It is much appreciated.

@@DoYouEvenTech Exactly my concern with my installation. Thanks for the straightforward answer.