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Well it looks like 9 years later the low attention span Tik Tok people have finally found this video. Thank you for the feedback. I will remix this helpful video into a short 60 second clip with no troubleshooting whatsoever (and maybe a catchy dance number) for you useless whiny dipshits.

The overall point of the video was to show the Mod 3 Wiring configuration Dr Jones had developed to increase the reliability and resilience of the entire charging system. This involved cutting the cheap plugs off and soldering the lead together, adding a thicker gauge wire from the starter for less resistance, and relocating the rectifier out of the box and onto the front of the bike where it could get better airflow. My situation just happened to also have a failed component that I added the troubleshooting and diagnostics to before locating it (it was a bad stator)

uhh yeah

Yup remounted mine on the front of the battery compartment. I put it down too low though so it roughed up my front fender a bit so be sure to mount it higher up on that if that is where you put it.

Did you get yours sorted out?

man I haven't watched this video in years. Do you see the wires in this video or are you referring to the ones you have whne you are trying it yourself? If you can direct me to where you are talking about in the video (minute/second mark) I can try to refresh my memory.

yeah man working great

5 year later update and still all good!

thanks friend

Moccs place

What to do with the three stator wires

I did relocate the RR to the front of the battery box. cant remember if I did it during this mod or after when I actually replaced my stator a month or so later. only bad thing is it now bumps my wheel fender when I go over bumps

Do the mod I did great bikes

+tgrbll Actually, Dr. Jones has stated before that it is to address some of the problems with the stator frying out. He alludes to this in the link you posted with: It will increase the ground path for the wiring harness. He (and many others, including myself) believes the grounding circuit is inadequate and results in excess current being provided to the stator, causing premature failure. Obviously if you have already fried your stator, this would not fix that problem (I was unsure if the stator was, in fact, fried when I did the mod but had planned on doing it anyways so just did the mod while replacing the stator concurrently) but it should, in theory, keep you from having the premature stator failure problem in the future. I have not seen any reports of anyone having a fried stator after completing this mod, so it at least seems to be holding up to theory.

Another issue related to the 'heat' factor is the location of regulator/rectifier. The stock location gets much too hot. Along with Mod- 3, I moved my reg/rec to the front of the bike, and mounted it on the battery box. This keeps it a lot cooler as it gets constant air flow. Many other bike manufacturers do this from the factory. Moving it when doing the mod. involves just making the leads longer. I heat shrunk the leads and used a section of cable sheathing, ran it along the bottom frame, secured with some cable ties. Looks factory and works like a champ, been several years now and trouble free! Note: I also installed a volt gauge on the bike so I can see that it's charging as I ride, again easy to do. I would also recommend using Rick's Hot-Shot stator and reg/rec, both are high output units designed for higher heat than the stock units.

good comment. I did this too but didn't mount it high enough so now whenever I go across a bump the back of the wheel fender bangs the box. not enough to damage the RR but enough to gouge the fender and take some paint off

Hello. How long are you using Rick's parts ? Is it really resolving of C90 electricity problem ?

+Young “Bluezuke860” Blue - the r/r is located on left side of bike under the back bubble (stator is located under front bubble). There are 4 bolts to remove, be careful pulling the cover off because the r/r is attached to the inside of the bubble. hope this helps.

+Young “Bluezuke860” Blue Dan Royer is exactly right. You can see this in the video at the 4:36-5:20 mark, and again at the 9:10 mark

+wvpostal That is exactly what was happening to mine. The lights don't require a ton of juice to turn on so they are about the last things to go. But when the battery starts to get low, it can't turn the engine over so you lose that first. I would say to look at your stator circuit for sure. It is a pretty easy swap. I got mine, I think, from Metric Thunder.

Just a note: The clutch switch will also cause a 'click' and no start on these bikes. It will happen intermittently at first and get worse until it fails completely. I had this going on along with the stator/rectifier issues, so it was a little frustrating. Replaced the switch and fixed all the starting issues. The switches don't last long either. They're prone to fail, but inexpensive, so I carry a spare in my trunk.

@@VTBalla34 Sounds like Rectifier/Regulator is getting super hot. An addition to this mod, with additional wiring is to move that rectifier to the front somewhere near the battery cover box or the oil cooler. (Just don't block the cooler) The Rectifier just doesn't get enough airflow, as the casing design and the "fins" call for.

Yeah I did that. Can't remmeber if its part of this video or not but my only problem is I didn't mount it up high enough so now whenever I go over bumps my R/R smacks the back of the front fender which is kinda annoying and has definitely taken some paint off.

​@@VTBalla34check the starter relay. Jump it with a screwdriver across the pos and neg. If it cranks, then the relay is going bad.

+Victor Hernandez sorry amigo. No hablo espanol

Greg, no, this would have nothing to do with no spark. Your problem is likely your signal generator.

+Ron Judge The wires up on the signal generator could be burnt out, which is one of the known issues that this Mod 3 attempts to fix, but yeah it is probably the signal generator itself.

yeah they are pretty awful. You are in good company though lol I can't remember if I said this in my video or not, but this Mod ended up not fixing my problem. I still had to replace the stator, which was definitely the issue. Charged fine after that. Only problem was that I managed to nick my gasket putting the damn stator cover back on (that thing is a PITA) which let it leak oil. I knew the problem but was too lazy to fix it for a few months until I got a new gasket and finally changed it out one day. Be very careful putting that stator cover back on because it is very easy to damage that gasket. I also recommend using some sort of gasket sealant on top to make sure it is nice and tight. Good luck!

Yep,did it to my 2008, got a Ricks stator and rectifier two years ago and I ride year round here in Dallas

Thanks bro...feels great...obviously a little wobbly and unstable, but I don't plan on going this high again for a while. this was to set my training maxes to hop back on 5-3-1, so I can still move heavy stuff but get enough reps in to really rehab my weak legs/back. Once I am happy with that, it will be time to ratchet up the weights! Hoping for a comp sometime late in 2014 after the wedding and stuff....

Emmm .... Is is no need to be certified electrician to perform this operation. It is very simple electro schema =)

I'm pretty sure if you are at all mechanically inclined you can do this. I did mine.👍